Best Places to Visit in Oaxaca: The Only List You Actually Need
Words by
Isabella Torres
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Best Places to Visit in Oaxaca: The Only List You Actually Need
Oaxaca hits you in the chest the first time you step into the Zócalo on a late afternoon when the light turns the canary-yellow facades into something almost edible. I have lived here, on and off, for the better part of a decade, and I still find corners that stop me mid-stride. The best places to visit in Oaxaca are not just the postcard ruins or the mezcal bars that every influencer has tagged. They are the morning markets where the butchers sing, the print shops where the presses date to the 1940s, the hillside villages where the weaving looms have not changed in three hundred years. This guide is the list I hand to friends who tell me they have four days, or seven, or a month, and want to feel the city rather than photograph it. These are the top spots Oaxaca has to offer, organized by the rhythm of a real day here, from first coffee to last copita.
The Zócalo and the Andador Turístico: Where Oaxaca Lives Out Loud
You cannot understand this city without spending a full morning sitting on a metal bench in the Plaza de la Constitución, which everyone calls the Zócalo. The square is framed by the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, whose construction started in 1535 and whose green cantera stone has been rebuilt and patched after earthquakes so many times that the walls look like a geological layer cake. The real show, though, is the people. Indigenous women from the Triqui and Mixe regions spread rebozos on the ground and sell amber jewelry, chocolate, and live turkeys if you need one. Street vendors push carts of tlayudas past the iron bandstand, which was cast in Belgium and shipped here sometime around the late 1800s.
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Walk east from the Zócalo and you hit the Andador Turístico, the pedestrian stretch of Calle Macedonio Alcalá. This is the most walked street in the state, and for good reason. It connects the cathedral to the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán about a kilometer to the north, passing dozens of galleries, textile shops, and restaurants along the way. The street was closed to vehicle traffic in the early 2000s, and that single decision transformed it from a congested avenue into the spine of Oaxaca's cultural tourism. You will see the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca at number 102, housed in a colonial mansion that dates to the 1700s, and the Museo de Filatelia, which is the only stamp museum in Latin America and occupies the upper floor of a building that was once a private residence.
The Vibe? Controlled chaos with a soundtrack of marimba bands and blaring bus horns.
The Bill? Free to walk. A coffee at a sidewalk café runs about 45 to 65 pesos.
The Standout? The bandstand concerts on Tuesday and Thursday evenings around 7 p.m., when the state band plays and families dance.
The Catch? The Andador gets so dense on Saturday evenings that you move at a crawl, and pickpockets work the crowd during festivals.
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The detail most visitors miss is the small bronze plaque embedded in the sidewalk near the intersection with Calle Morelos. It marks the spot where, according to local historians, the first public demonstration of electric light in Oaxaca took place in 1893. The plaque is easy to step over, but it tells you something important about this city. Oaxaca has always been a place that absorbs outside influence, colonial architecture, republican politics, modern tourism, and metabolizes it into something that still feels indigenous at its core.
Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán and the Jardín Etnobotánico
At the northern end of the Andador, the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán rises in a explosion of baroque stucco that took roughly two hundred years to complete. The interior ceiling is covered in a genealogical tree of Santo Domingo de Guzmán, with figures cascading down in gold leaf and deep red paint. The effect is dizzying. I have been inside dozens of times and I still look up. The attached former convent now houses the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca, and the collection of Mixtec treasure from Tomb 7 at Monte Albán is displayed in the third-floor gallery. The gold pectoral with the turquoise mosaic is the piece everyone crowds around, but the obsidian butterfly figurine in the case next to it is, to my eye, more extraordinary.
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Next door, the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca occupies the grounds of the old convent. You can only enter with a guided tour, and the English-language tours usually run on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at 11 a.m. The garden contains over nine hundred species of plants native to Oaxaca, including several species of agave, the cochineal-bearing nopal cactus, and a massive Montezuma cypress that is estimated to be over seven hundred years old. The garden was designed by architect Alejandro Linares and was not opened to the public until 1998, after decades of lobbying by local botanists and artists.
The Vibe? Reverent and cool inside the church, lush and almost humid in the garden.
The Bill? Church entry is free. The museum costs 90 pesos for adults. The garden tour is 100 pesos in Spanish, 150 in English.
The Standout? The view from the museum's second-floor corridor looking down into the garden's cactus collection.
The Catch? The garden tour sells out during high season, November through March, and you sometimes need to reserve a day ahead.
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Here is the insider detail. The stone wall on the east side of the garden, along Calle de los Derechos Humanos, has a small gap near the ground where you can see the original 16th-century foundation of the convent. Most people walk right past it. If you crouch down, you can see the hand-chisel marks on the basalt blocks. This is the oldest visible stonework in the city center, predating the cathedral by several decades.
Mercado de Abastos: The Market That Swallows You Whole
The Mercado de Abastos sits on the western edge of the city center, just past the Mercado 20 de Noviembre, and it is the largest indigenous market in Mexico. It sprawls across several city blocks and operates every day, but Saturday is the day when vendors from the Sierra Norte, the Costa, and the Istmo de Tehuantepec converge, and the market doubles in size. You will find live iguanas, medicinal herbs, hand-carved wooden masks from Tilcajete, and more varieties of chile than you knew existed. The pasillo de humo, the smoke alley, is a corridor where women grill tasajo, cecina, and chorizo over charcoal, and the smell will follow you for blocks.
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I go on Saturday mornings around 8 a.m., before the heat and the crowds reach their peak. You need to keep your bag in front of you, not because of anything dangerous but because the aisles get so tight that bags bump into the food displays and knock things over. The market was formally established in the 1940s, but the tradition of this particular trading site goes back to the pre-Hispanic tianguis that operated near the base of the Cerro del Fortín. The connection to Oaxaca's identity as a crossroads of trade routes is not abstract here. You can see it in the Zapotec women selling baskets next to Mixe women selling copal incense next to women from the coast selling dried shrimp.
The Vibe? Overwhelming in the best possible way. Loud, smoky, alive.
The Bill? A full meal of memelas or a tlayuda from a market stall costs between 30 and 60 pesos.
The Standout? The barbacoa de chivo section on Sundays, where whole goats are pit-roasted overnight.
The Catch? There is almost no shade in the outer sections, and by noon in March or April the heat is punishing.
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The detail most tourists do not know is that the market has its own informal security system. Each section has a recognized leader, usually an older woman, who settles disputes and keeps track of who is selling where. If you lose something, ask the nearest section leader before you panic. I once left a bag of dried chiles at a stall, and the vendor had it waiting for me at the section leader's table two hours later.
Monte Albán: The City on a Mountain That Was Flattened by Hand
Monte Albán sits on an artificially leveled mountaintop about twelve kilometers west of the city center, and it was the political and ceremonial center of the Zapotec civilization for over a thousand years, from roughly 500 BCE to 800 CE. The site covers about thirty thousand square meters, and the main plaza is flanked by pyramids, ball courts, and an observatory. The Danzantes gallery, on the south side of the plaza, contains over three hundred carved stone figures that were once thought to represent dancers but are now believed to be depictions of sacrificed captives or conquered rulers. The carvings are unsettling and beautiful, and they are among the oldest monumental sculptures in Mesoamerica.
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You can get there by taking a bus from the Hotel Rivera del Ángel on Calle Mina 518. The buses run every half hour starting at 8:30 a.m. and the ride takes about twenty minutes. Go early. The site opens at 8 a.m., and if you are on the first bus you will have the main plaza almost to yourself for about forty-five minutes before the tour groups arrive. By 11 a.m. in peak season, the sun is brutal and the plaza offers almost no shade. The entrance fee is 90 pesos for foreign visitors, and the small museum at the entrance is worth the extra twenty minutes.
The Vibe? Awe at the engineering, silence at the scale, sweat on your neck by mid-morning.
The Bill? Bus fare is about 10 pesos each way. Entry is 90 pesos.
The Standout? Climbing the South Platform at opening time and looking out over the valley while the morning mist burns off.
The Catch? There is no food or water sold inside the site. Bring at least a liter of water per person.
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The insider detail is on the north side of the main plaza, near Building L. There is a small, unmarked stone with a carved glyph that most guides skip. Local archaeologists believe it is one of the earliest examples of Zapotec writing, dating to around 500 BCE. It is just sitting there, waist-high, with no rope around it. You can touch it if you are gentle. This is one of the must see places Oaxaca gives you that no photograph can capture, the sense that you are standing in the exact spot where a civilization decided to write things down for the first time.
Barrio de Jalatlaco: The Neighborhood the Tourists Have Not Found Yet
East of the city center, across the bridge over the Río Atoyac, the Barrio of Jalatlaco is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Oaxaca, founded in the 16th century by indigenous families who were settled here during the colonial reorganization of the city. The streets are narrow and cobblestone, and the houses are painted in deep blues, terracottas, and mustard yellows. In recent years, a handful of small cafés, mezcalerías, and artist studios have opened, but the neighborhood still feels residential. You will see women hanging laundry from second-floor windows and old men playing dominoes on plastic tables in the street.
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Calle Aldama is the main artery, and if you walk it slowly you will find Taller de Gráfica Actual, a printmaking collective that has been operating since 1993 and whose members produce lithographs and woodcuts using techniques that date to the Mexican muralist tradition. A few doors down, the panadería La Jalateca makes a concha de yema, a sweet bread with a custard topping, that is the best I have had in the city. The neighborhood's small church, the Templo de San Matías, has a simple stone facade and an interior that is quiet and cool, a sharp contrast to the baroque excess of Santo Domingo.
The Vibe? Peaceful, slightly off-the-map, the feeling of discovering something before it gets written about.
The Bill? A coffee and a pastry at a neighborhood café runs about 60 to 80 pesos.
The Standout? The street art murals along Calle Hidalgo, which were painted by local artists in 2019 and depict scenes from the neighborhood's history.
The Catch? There are no ATMs in the neighborhood, and some smaller shops do not accept cards.
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The local tip is this. On Sunday mornings, a small tianguis sets up along the riverbank at the eastern edge of the neighborhood. It is not listed in any guidebook. You can buy fresh cheese from the Valles Centrales, handmade tortillas, and sometimes a woman sells tamales de mole negro from a large pot. The whole thing wraps up by 1 p.m. Jalatlaco connects to Oaxaca's deeper history as a city of neighborhoods, each with its own church, its own market, its own identity, a structure that has survived since the pre-Hispanic period and that gives the city its remarkable sense of being a collection of villages rather than a single urban mass.
Hierve el Agua and the Mitla Ruins: A Day in the Tlacolula Valley
The Tlacolula Valley stretches east from the city for about forty-five kilometers, and it contains two of the most extraordinary Oaxaca visitor highlights you can reach in a single day. Hierve el Agua is a set of petrified waterfalls about seventy kilometers from the city center, formed by mineral-rich spring water that has deposited calcium carbonate over thousands of years. The formations look like cascading stone frozen mid-fall, and the view from the top, down into the valley, is one of the most dramatic in central Mexico. There are natural pools at the top where you can swim, though the water is cool and the sun can be intense. The entrance fee is about 50 pesos, plus a small community fee that varies by season.
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About twenty kilometers past Hierve el Agua, the archaeological site of Mitla is the second most important Zapotec site after Monte Albán. Mitla was the Zapotec religious capital at the time of the Spanish conquest, and its buildings are decorated with intricate geometric mosaics made from thousands of precisely cut stone pieces fitted together without mortar. The Group of Columns contains the best-preserved mosaics, and the patterns, stepped frets and spirals, are repeated across the walls in a way that feels almost obsessive. The site gets far fewer visitors than Monte Albán, and on a weekday morning you may have the interior courtyards to yourself.
The Vibe? Surreal at Hierve el Agua, meditative at Mitla.
The Bill? Hierve el Agua entry is about 50 pesos. Mitla entry is 90 pesos. A colectivo from the city to Hierve el Agua costs about 80 pesos each way.
The Standout? Swimming in the petrified pools at Hierve el Agua at sunrise, before the crowds.
The Catch? The road to Hierve el Agua has several speed bumps and a section of unpaved road that was damaged in recent earthquakes and has been partially repaired. The colectivo ride takes about ninety minutes each way.
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The insider detail is at Mitla. Behind the main site, past the small handicraft market, there is a path that leads down to a second, unexcavated section of ruins that is not open to the public but is visible from the path. You can see wall foundations and pottery shards in the exposed earth. Local guides sometimes take small groups there if you ask politely and tip. This area is believed to be the residential quarter of the Zapotec priests who maintained the ceremonial center, and it gives you a sense of how much of Mitla is still underground. The Tlacolula Valley is the living heart of Oaxaca's indigenous culture, and a day spent here connects you to a continuity of settlement that stretches back over two thousand years.
The Mezcalerías of Calle de la Constitución and the Surrounding Blocks
Oaxaca is the capital of mezcal, and the blocks around the city center contain dozens of mezcalerías ranging from tourist-facing operations to tiny family rooms with a single copper still in the back. Calle de la Constitución, which runs parallel to the Andador on the east side, has become a corridor of mezcal tasting rooms. Mezcaloteca, at Calle de la Constitución 204, is a tasting library where you can sample from over one hundred mezcals, each labeled with the agave species, the producer's name, and the village of origin. Reservations are recommended, and the tastings are led by a staff member who explains the difference between espadín and tobalá with the patience of a professor.
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A few blocks south, In Situ Mezcalería on Calle Morelos is a smaller operation that focuses on mezcals from the Sierra Sur, and the owner, a Oaxacan woman named Reina, can tell you the name of the palenque where each bottle was produced and usually the name of the person who distilled it. The tasting flights run about 200 to 350 pesos per person, and you get four or five small copitas. The mezcal is served at room temperature, never chilled, and you sip it slowly. The connection to Oaxaca's identity is direct. Mezcal is not a product here. It is a social ritual, a medicine, a religious offering, and an economic lifeline for hundreds of rural families.
The Vibe? Intimate, educational, the opposite of a party bar.
The Bill? Tasting flights range from 200 to 400 pesos per person.
The Standout? A flight of wild agave mezcals at Mezcaloteca, especially the pechuga variety, which is distilled with turkey breast and seasonal fruits.
The Catch? Mezcaloteca fills up during the Day of the Dead season and the Guelaguetza festival in July. Book at least three days ahead.
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The detail most visitors miss is that the best mezcal in Oaxaca is not sold in bars. It is sold in the palenques themselves, small family distilleries in villages like Santiago Matatlán, San Baltazar Guelavila, and Santa Catarina Minas. If you hire a driver for the day, about 1,200 to 1,500 pesos, you can visit three or four palenques and taste mezcal directly from the still. The flavor difference between palenque mezcal and bottled mezcal is enormous. This is one of the top spots Oaxaca offers if you are willing to leave the city center.
The Textile Villages: Santo Tomás Jalieza and Teotitlán del Valle
Two villages east of the city center preserve weaving traditions that predate the Spanish conquest by centuries. Santo Tomás Jalieza, about thirty kilometers from Oaxaca on the road to Ocotlán, is known for its backstrap loom weaving. The women here produce cotton belts, bags, and table runners using techniques that are essentially identical to those depicted in pre-Hispanic codices. The village has a small cooperative market near the church where you can watch the weavers work and buy directly from them. A handwoven cotton rebozo costs between 300 and 800 pesos depending on the complexity of the pattern.
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Teotitlán del Valle, about forty kilometers from the city, is the center of Zapotec rug weaving. The village has been producing wool rugs since at least the 1500s, and the tradition intensified after the Spanish introduced sheep and treadle looms. The rugs are dyed with natural pigments, cochineal for red, indigo for blue, marigold for yellow, and the designs range from traditional Zapotec geometric patterns to reproductions of works by Picasso and Matisse. The family workshop of the Mendoza or Bautista families is worth visiting. You can see the entire process, from shearing the sheep to carding the wool to the final weaving on a floor loom. A medium-sized rug costs between 1,500 and 5,000 pesos.
The Vibe? Quiet, focused, the sound of looms clicking in open doorways.
The Bill? A small woven bag in Jalieza costs about 100 to 200 pesos. A rug in Teotitlán starts around 1,500 pesos.
The Standout? Watching a weaver in Teotitlán mix cochineal dye and seeing the color shift from pale pink to deep crimson as she adjusts the pH with lime juice.
The Catch? Both villages are best visited on weekdays. On Sundays, the Teotitlán market draws crowds and parking becomes difficult.
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The local tip is to visit Teotitlán during the feast of the Precious Blood of Christ, the village's patron saint celebration, which falls in early July. The festival includes traditional dances, a communal meal, and a weaving competition where the best rugs are displayed in the church courtyard. It is one of the most authentic cultural events in the valley, and it is almost entirely unknown to tourists. These villages are not museums. They are living communities where the economy, the religion, and the art are woven together, literally, on every street.
The Cerro del Fortín and the Guelaguetza Auditorium
The Cerro del Fortín rises on the western edge of the city, and its summit is occupied by the Auditorio Guelaguetza, an open-air amphitheater that seats about twelve thousand people and hosts the annual Guelaguetza festival on the two Mondays following July 16. The festival is a celebration of Oaxacan indigenous cultures, with delegations from the eight regions of the state performing traditional dances in elaborate costumes. The event has roots in pre-Hispanic agricultural rituals dedicated to the corn goddess, and it was later syncretized with the Catholic festival of Carmen. The dances are extraordinary, the pineapple harvest dance from the Papaloapan region, the feather dance from the Valles Centrales, the jarabe from the Sierra Norte, and the energy in the auditorium is electric.
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Even if you are not here during the festival, the Cerro del Fortín is worth the climb. The path starts near the entrance to the auditorium and winds up through a forest of oak and jacaranda. At the top, the view of the city is panoramic, and on a clear day you can see the mountains of the Sierra Norte to the north and the Sierra Sur to the south. The climb takes about twenty-five minutes at a moderate pace. The auditorium itself is open for visits on non-event days, and you can sit in the seats and imagine the festival. The entrance to the hill is free, and the auditorium visit costs nothing on regular days.
The Vibe? Exhilarating at the top, festive during the festival, contemplative on a quiet weekday.
The Bill? Free to climb the hill. Guelaguetza tickets range from 600 to 1,500 pesos depending on the section.
The Standout? The view at sunset, when the city lights begin to appear in the valley below.
The Catch? The Guelaguetza auditorium has no roof, and during the July performances the afternoon sun is intense. Bring a hat and water.
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The insider detail is that the Guelaguetza has a free, public version that takes place on the days between the main performances. Local delegations perform in the Zócalo and at the Andador, and the atmosphere is less polished but more spontaneous. You can stand three feet from the dancers and hear the shells on their ankles rattle. This is the version that Oaxacan families attend, and it gives you a sense of what the festival was like before it became an international tourist event. The Cerro del Fortín connects to Oaxaca's identity as a place where indigenous identity is not a relic but a living, performed, and fiercely protected part of daily life.
When to Go and What to Know
Oaxaca is visitable year-round, but the experience shifts dramatically with the seasons. The dry season, November through April, brings clear skies and cool nights, with daytime temperatures between 25 and 30 degrees Celsius. This is peak tourist season, and hotel prices in the city center can double compared to the rainy season. The rainy season, May through October, brings afternoon thunderstorms that usually last an hour or two, followed by clean air and lower prices. The landscape turns green, and the mezcal harvest season begins in June.
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The currency is the Mexican peso, and as of 2024 the exchange rate hovers around 17 pesos to one US dollar. ATMs are plentiful in the city center, but they sometimes run out of cash on weekends. Many smaller shops and market vendors are cash only. Tipping is customary, 10 to 15 percent at sit-down restaurants, and a few pesos for bag handlers at markets. The city sits at about 1,550 meters above sea level, and some visitors feel mild altitude effects on the first day. Drink more water than you think you need.
Spanish is the primary language, and while English is spoken at major hotels and tourist restaurants, a few words of Spanish go a long way. The local dialect includes the word "gueta" for bread and "chilero" for something cool or good. Oaxaca is generally safe for tourists who use common sense, but the Mercado de Abastos and the bus station require extra attention to bags and phones. The emergency number is 911.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What are the best free or low-cost tourist places in Oaxaca that are genuinely worth the visit?
The Zócalo and the Andador Turístico are completely free to walk and offer hours of people-watching, architecture, and street performance. The Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán has no entry fee, and the interior is one of the most visually stunning spaces in Mexico. The Jardín Etnobotánico costs 100 pesos for a Spanish tour, which is a bargain for a ninety-minute guided walk through nine hundred native plant species. The climb up the Cerro del Fortín is free and takes about twenty-five minutes, and the panoramic view from the top rivals any paid observation deck. The Barrio de Jalatlaco costs nothing to explore, and the street art murals along Calle Hidalgo are a self-guided gallery.
How walkable is the main cultural and dining district of Oaxaca?
The central district, from the Zócalo north to Santo Domingo and east to Jalatlaco, is about two kilometers end to end and entirely walkable on flat or gently sloping streets. Most visitors walk everywhere within this zone without needing transport. The sidewalks on the Andador are wide and well-maintained, but some side streets in the Jalatlaco and Xochimilco neighborhoods have uneven cobblestones and narrow passages. Comfortable shoes are essential. The Mercado de Abastos is about a twenty-minute walk from the Zócalo, and while it is walkable, most visitors prefer a taxi for the return trip when carrying purchases.
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What is the most reliable neighborhood in Oaxaca for digital nomads and remote workers?
The neighborhood surrounding the Jardín Etnobotánico and the streets between Calle Reforma and Calle de la Constitución has the highest concentration of cafés with stable Wi-Fi and a work-friendly atmosphere. Several hostels and co-working spaces in this zone cater to remote workers, and the area is quiet enough for calls during the day. The Barrio de Jalatlaco is gaining popularity among longer-term visitors because of its residential calm and lower rental costs. Internet speeds in the city center typically range from 20 to 50 megabits per second on fiber connections, though power outages occasionally occur during the rainy season.
Is it possible to walk between the main sightseeing spots in Oaxaca, or is local transport necessary?
The Zócalo, the Andador Turístico, the Templo de Santo Domingo, the Museo de las Culturas, and the Mercado 20 de Noviembre are all within a fifteen-minute walk of each other. Monte Albán requires a bus or taxi, about twenty minutes by vehicle from the city center. Hierve el Agua and Mitla require a colectivo or hired car, as they are seventy and forty kilometers from the city respectively. The textile villages of Santo Tomás Jalieza and Teotitlán del Valle are reachable by colectivo but involve a transfer at the Central de Abastos, so a hired driver for the day is more efficient if you are visiting both.
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Do the most popular attractions in Oaxaca require advance ticket booking, especially during peak season?
Monte Albán and Mitla do not require advance booking, tickets are purchased at the entrance. The Guelaguetza auditorium performances in July sell out weeks in advance, and tickets for the best sections, usually sections B and C on the west side, are gone by May. The Jardín Etnobotánico English-language tours on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at 11 a.m. can fill up during the November to March high season, and reserving a day ahead is wise. Mezcaloteca tastings during the Day of the Dead period, late October through early November, and during the Guelaguetza in July should be booked at least three to five days in advance.
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