Best Things to Do in Oaxaca for First Timers (and Repeat Visitors)
Words by
Sofia Garcia
I have lived in Oaxaca for over a decade, and every time someone asks me about the best things to do in Oaxaca, I struggle to keep my list short. This city rewards both first timers and repeat visitors equally, because no matter how many times you come back, there is always another layer to uncover. Whether you are here for the food, the mezcal, the markets, or the ancient ruins, the activities Oaxaca offers are unlike anything else in Mexico, and this Oaxaca travel guide is built from years of walking these streets myself.
1. Mercado 20 de Noviembre: The Heart of Oaxacan Food Culture
You cannot understand Oaxaca without spending a morning inside Mercado 20 de Noviembre, located right in the Centro Histórico along Calle Aldama. This is where the city eats, and I have been coming here since before it became a tourist destination. The market sits just two blocks from the Zócalo, and the smoke from the pasillo de humo, the grilled meat corridor, hits you before you even step inside.
What to Order: Get the tlayuda from the stalls on the second floor, the one run by the woman in the blue apron near the east entrance. Ask for it with tasajo and chapulines if you are feeling adventurous. The tlayuda is essentially a large crispy tortilla topped with beans, cheese, and your choice of meat, and hers is the best in the market.
Best Time: Go between 10:00 AM and 1:00 PM on a Tuesday or Wednesday. Weekends get packed with both locals and tourists, and the smoke inside becomes almost unbearable by Saturday afternoon.
The Vibe: Loud, smoky, chaotic, and absolutely alive. The smoke from the grilling meats can sting your eyes if you sit too close to the pasillo de humo for more than twenty minutes, so grab your food and move to a table further back.
Local Tip: Most tourists only explore the ground floor. Head upstairs where the prepared food stalls are, and you will find the real action. The upstairs section is where Oaxaqueños actually eat lunch, and the prices are lower than the tourist-facing ground floor.
This market connects directly to Oaxaca's identity as the culinary capital of Mexico. The seven moles, the chapulines, the tejate, all of it traces back to indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec traditions that predate the Spanish arrival by centuries.
2. Mezcaloteca: The Best Mezcal Tasting Experience in the City
Mezcaloteca sits on Reforma 506 in the Centro, and it is the single most important stop for anyone who wants to understand mezcal beyond the cheap shots at the tourist bars. I have brought dozens of friends here, and every single one leaves with a completely different understanding of what mezcal actually is. The experience here is educational, not performative.
What to Drink: Book a guided tasting with one of their mezcaleros. They will walk you through three to four artisanal mezcals, explaining the difference between espadín, tobalá, and madrecuixe. Each tasting includes a detailed explanation of the agave variety, the distillation process, and the specific village where it was produced.
Best Time: Arrive for the 5:00 PM or 7:00 PM session on a weekday. Weekend sessions fill up fast, and the later weekend slots tend to attract larger, louder groups that can disrupt the intimate atmosphere.
The Vibe: Quiet, reverent, almost like a classroom. The space is small, maybe ten seats, and the mezcaleros speak with genuine passion. The only downside is that the sessions run long, sometimes over two hours, so do not plan dinner right after.
Local Tip: After your tasting, ask the mezcalero to recommend a specific palenque to visit. Many of them will give you the actual address of the family that produced your favorite bottle, and some of those families welcome visitors if you show up respectfully with a bottle from their batch.
Mezcaloteca represents the artisanal mezcal renaissance happening across Oaxaca. It connects you directly to the rural communities in the valleys surrounding the city, where families have been distilling for generations, often without electricity or running water.
3. Hierve el Agua: The Petrified Waterfall Experience
Hierve el Agua sits about 70 kilometers east of Oaxaca city, in the mountains near the town of San Lorenzo Albarradas. I have made this trip at least fifteen times, and the petrified waterfalls never get old. The experience in Oaxaca would be incomplete without seeing these mineral formations, even though the journey there is part of the adventure itself.
What to See: The two main petrified waterfalls, Cascada Chica and Cascada Grande, are calcium carbonate formations that have built up over thousands of years. The natural infinity pool at the top of Cascada Chica offers a view across the valley that is staggering. Bring your swimsuit if you want to soak in the mineral-rich pool.
Best Time: Leave Oaxaca city by 7:00 AM to arrive before the tour buses. The site opens at 8:00 AM, and by 10:00 AM the parking lot fills with colectivo vans from Mitla. Weekdays in the dry season, November through March, are ideal.
The Vibe: Remote, rugged, and humbling. The road up is winding and narrow, and the last stretch is unpaved. The changing facilities are basic, and there is almost no shade at the top, so bring water and sunscreen.
Local Tip: Stop in Mitla on the way back. The town has incredible textile weaving, and the ruins of Mitla, the most important Zapotec religious site, are right in the center of town. Most tourists skip the ruins entirely, focusing only on the textiles.
Hierve el Agua connects to Oaxaca's deep geological and cultural history. The Zapotec people considered these falls sacred, and the mineral deposits were seen as frozen water, hence the name "it boils," referring to the bubbling springs that feed the formations.
4. Calle Macedonio Alcalá: The Best Street for Architecture and Art Galleries
Macedonio Alcalá runs from the Zócalo toward the Santo Domingo church, and it is the most beautiful pedestrian street in the Centro Histórico. I walk this street almost daily, and I still notice something new each time, a gallery I had not seen, a courtyard visible through an open door. This is the cultural spine of the city.
What to See: Start at the Instituto de Gráfica de Oaxaca, which houses an incredible print collection. Then walk north toward Santo Domingo, stopping at La Casa de las Artesanías and the small galleries tucked between the shops. The architecture along this street is colonial at its finest, with wrought-iron balconies and stone facades.
Best Time: Late afternoon, around 4:00 PM, when the light hits the stone walls and the galleries are still open. Many galleries close between 2:00 PM and 3:00 PM for the midday break.
The Vibe: Elegant and curated. The street is pedestrianized, which makes it peaceful compared to the surrounding traffic. The only complaint is that some galleries rotate their exhibitions infrequently, so if you visited six months ago, you might see the same pieces.
Local Tip: Look for the small door on the east side of the street, about halfway to Santo Domingo, that leads to a hidden courtyard with a café. Most tourists walk right past it, but it is one of the quietest spots in the entire Centro.
This street embodies Oaxaca's artistic identity. The galleries here showcase contemporary Oaxacan art alongside traditional crafts, reflecting the city's role as a living center of Mexican creativity.
5. Teotitlán del Valle: The Weaving Village
Teotitlán del Valle sits about 30 kilometers east of Oaxaca city, in the Tlacolula Valley. I have visited this Zapotec village dozens of times, and the weaving tradition here is extraordinary. The experience in Oaxaca is incomplete without seeing how these rugs are made, from shearing the sheep to the final product.
What to See: Visit the family workshops along the main street. The López family workshop, just off the central plaza, demonstrates the entire process, including natural dyeing using cochineal, indigo, and pomegranate. Ask to see the cochineal demonstration, where they crush the insects on a metate to produce the deep red dye.
Best Time: Morning, before 11:00 AM, when the weavers are actively working. Many workshops close for the midday meal between 1:00 PM and 3:00 PM.
The Vibe: Warm and welcoming. Families here are genuinely proud of their craft. The only downside is that some workshops have become very tourist-oriented, with fixed prices and less room for the personal interaction that made visits special a decade ago.
Local Tip: Ask your host to recommend a specific family workshop rather than walking in randomly. The best experiences come from families who have been weaving for generations and are happy to share their process if approached with genuine interest.
Teotitlán del Valle represents the living Zapotec tradition. The weaving here uses techniques and patterns that predate the Spanish conquest, and the community has maintained its identity through centuries of change.
6. La Biznaga: Oaxacan Cuisine in a Garden Setting
La Biznaga sits on García Vigil 512 in the Centro, and it is one of my favorite restaurants in the city. I have eaten here more times than I can count, and the mole negro remains one of the best versions I have found. The garden patio is shaded by a massive huaje tree, and the atmosphere is relaxed without being stuffy.
What to Order: The mole negro is essential, complex and rich with over thirty ingredients. Also try the memela with hierba santa and quesillo, a simple dish that showcases Oaxacan cheese at its best.
Best Time: Lunch, between 1:30 PM and 3:00 PM, when the garden is at its most peaceful. Dinner service can feel rushed, and the kitchen sometimes struggles with volume on weekend nights.
The Vibe: Garden dining with a local crowd. The service is warm but can slow down significantly during peak lunch hours, so do not come if you are in a hurry.
Local Tip: Ask for a table in the back garden rather than the front room. The back is quieter, more shaded, and feels like eating in someone's home.
La Biznaga represents the evolution of Oaxacan cuisine, honoring traditional recipes while presenting them in a setting that feels contemporary without losing its roots.
7. Monte Albán: The Ancient Zapotec Capital
Monte Albán sits on a flattened hilltop about 10 kilometers south of Oaxaca city, and it is one of the earliest cities in Mesoamerica. I have visited more than twenty times, and the view from the Grand Plaza still takes my breath away. This is not just a ruin; it is the foundation of everything Oaxaca became.
What to See: The Grand Plaza, the Ball Court, and the Building of the Danzantes, which features some of the earliest carved stone figures in Mesoamerica. The small museum at the entrance is worth thirty minutes before you climb up.
Best Time: Arrive at 8:00 AM when the gates open. By 10:30 AM, tour groups arrive and the plaza fills. The light in the morning is also better for photography.
The Vibe: Awe-inspiring and humbling. The site is exposed with almost no shade, and the climb up to the main plaza is steep. Bring water, a hat, and good shoes.
Local Tip: Hire a guide at the entrance rather than booking through a tour company. The independent guides are often more knowledgeable and charge less. Ask specifically about the astronomical alignments of the buildings.
Monte Albán connects directly to Oaxaca's identity as a Zapotec heartland. The city was the political and ceremonial center for over a thousand years, and its influence is still felt in the surrounding communities.
8. Mercado de Abastos: The Largest Market in Oaxaca
Mercado de Abastos sits in the eastern part of the city, in the neighborhood of the same name, and it is where Oaxaqueños actually shop. I come here weekly, and it is overwhelming in the best way. This is not a tourist market; it is the real engine of the city's food system.
What to See: The produce section, the dried chili aisle, and the mezcal vendors along the perimeter. The variety of dried chiles here is staggering, and the prices are a fraction of what you pay in the Centro markets.
Best Time: Early morning, between 7:00 AM and 9:00 AM, when the market is fully stocked and the energy is at its peak. By afternoon, many vendors have packed up.
The Vibe: Raw, loud, and completely authentic. The aisles are narrow, the floors are wet, and the sensory overload is intense. It is not comfortable, and that is exactly the point.
Local Tip: Take a colectivo from the Centro rather than a taxi. The colectivo drops you at the market entrance, and the ride itself is an experience. Ask the driver to point out the best food stalls inside.
Mercado de Abastos represents the economic and cultural backbone of Oaxaca. The trade networks here connect rural producers to urban consumers, and the market has operated in some form for centuries.
When to Go and What to Know
The best months to visit Oaxaca are October through April, when the weather is dry and cool. The rainy season, May through September, brings afternoon downpours that can disrupt plans. If you time your visit around the Guelaguetza festival in late July, you will witness one of Mexico's most important indigenous cultural celebrations, but book accommodation months in advance.
Walk everywhere in the Centro Histórico. The city is compact, and the best discoveries happen on foot. Carry cash, especially for markets and smaller restaurants, as many do not accept cards. Learn a few phrases in Spanish, and if you can manage any Zapotec, even a greeting, you will be met with genuine warmth.
Oaxaca is not a city that reveals itself quickly. Come for the food, stay for the people, and return for the layers you missed the first time.
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