Best Pubs in Istanbul: Where Locals Actually Drink
Words by
Mehmet Demir
Finding the Best Pubs in Istanbul: A Local's Honest Guide
Istanbul is not the first city that comes to mind when you think of pub culture. Mosques, tea gardens, and meyhanes dominate the drinking landscape, and for good reason, those are the institutions that have shaped this city's relationship with alcohol for centuries. But if you know where to look, the best pubs in Istanbul reveal a side of the city that most visitors never see. These are places where the bartender knows your name by the second visit, where the playlist is curated with genuine care, and where the crowd is a mix of expats, local creatives, and neighborhood regulars who have been coming here since before the rent tripled. I have spent years drinking my way through this city, from the backstreets of Beyoglu to the quieter corners of Kadikoy, and what follows is the guide I wish someone had handed me when I first arrived.
Istanbul's pub scene is not about replicating what you would find in London or Dublin. It is something distinctly its own, shaped by the city's layered history, its position between continents, and the particular energy of a metropolis that never quite sleeps. The top bars Istanbul has to offer tend to cluster in a few neighborhoods, but the best ones often hide in plain sight, tucked above a shop or down a narrow side street where the sound of the call to prayer mingles with the clink of glasses. This is where to drink in Istanbul if you want the real thing.
The Heart of Beyoglu: Where Istanbul's Pub Culture Took Root
Beyoglu, and Istiklal Avenue in particular, has been the center of Istanbul's nightlife for well over a century. During the late Ottoman period, this was where European diplomats, merchants, and artists gathered, and the tradition of drinking in public spaces has never fully left. The local pubs Istanbul residents love in this neighborhood carry that legacy forward, even as the street itself has changed dramatically in recent years.
NuTeras
Located on the top floor of a building just off Istiklal Avenue, near the Cihangir end, NuTeras is one of those places that feels like it exists outside of time. The rooftop terrace overlooks a sea of terracotta rooftops and minarets, and on a clear evening you can watch the sun drop behind the silhouette of the old city. The crowd here skews creative, designers, musicians, photographers, and the kind of people who have strong opinions about natural wine. The cocktail menu changes seasonally, but the mezze plates are consistently excellent, and the house-made lemonade with fresh mint is the best non-alcoholic option you will find in the neighborhood. Weeknights after 9 PM are ideal, because weekends get so packed that you will be lucky to find standing room. One thing most tourists do not realize is that the entrance is unmarked, a plain door between two shops, and you need to take a narrow staircase up several flights. The building itself was once a textile workshop in the 1920s, and you can still see the old pulley system near the ceiling if you look closely.
A small complaint: the rooftop gets extremely windy on certain autumn evenings, and the staff rarely has enough blankets to go around. Bring a jacket even if the day was warm.
Kallavi
Kallavi sits on a quiet side street just south of the Galata Tower, in a neighborhood that has transformed almost beyond recognition in the last decade. The pub occupies a narrow, two-story space with exposed brick walls and a carefully chosen vinyl collection that the owner spins on weekend nights. This is one of the top bars Istanbul offers for anyone who cares about craft beer, because the taps rotate regularly and feature Turkish microbreweries alongside European imports. Try the Amber Ale from Gara Guzu, a brewery based on the Aegean coast, or ask the bartender for whatever seasonal option they have on draft. The kitchen serves a small but well-executed menu of pub food, and the burger here is genuinely one of the best in Beyoglu. Thursday and Friday evenings draw a lively after-work crowd, but Sunday afternoons are perfect if you want to sit by the window and watch the street at a slower pace. The building was originally a Greek-owned tobacco warehouse in the early 1900s, and the original wooden beams are still visible along the ceiling. Most visitors walk right past the entrance because there is no large sign, just a small brass plate by the door.
Kadikoy: The Other Side of the Bosphorus
Cross the Bosphorus to the Asian side and the energy shifts completely. Kadikoy has long been the bohemian counterweight to Beyoglu's tourist-heavy nightlife, and the local pubs Istanbul residents frequent here feel more relaxed, more neighborhood-oriented, and considerably less expensive. If you want to understand where to drink in Istanbul among people who actually live here, this is the place to start.
Arka
Arka is a small, no-frills pub on a backstreet in the Moda neighborhood of Kadikoy, and it has been a fixture of the local drinking scene for years. The interior is dimly lit, with wooden tables that have been scratched and stained by decades of use, and the walls are covered with concert posters and faded photographs. The beer selection is straightforward, Turkish lagers and a few imported options, but the raki is poured generously and the meze comes fast. This is a place where conversations stretch late into the night, where strangers become friends over shared plates of fried mussels and white cheese. The best night to come is Saturday, when a local musician often sets up in the corner and plays acoustic sets that draw applause from the entire room. The pub is located on a street that was once home to a large Armenian community, and the building's architecture, with its high ceilings and arched windows, reflects that heritage. Most tourists never make it to Moda, let alone this particular street, which is exactly why the regulars like it.
One honest drawback: the single bathroom is down a steep, narrow staircase, and it is not accessible for anyone with mobility issues. This is common in Kadikoy's older buildings, but it is worth knowing before you go.
Knidost
Knidost sits on one of the main pedestrian streets in central Kadikoy, just a short walk from the fish market. The name references the ancient Greek city of Knidos, and the pub's aesthetic nods to the layered history of the Anatolian coastline with its blue-and-white color scheme and maritime decor. The cocktail menu is the main draw here, with creative drinks that incorporate local ingredients like pomegranate molasses, sumac, and Turkish rose water. The "Aegean Spritz," made with elderflower liqueur and sparkling water, is refreshing on a hot summer evening. The crowd is a mix of young professionals and longtime Kadikoy residents, and the atmosphere stays lively well past midnight on weekends. Wednesday evenings are particularly good because they run a happy hour that extends until 10 PM, which is unusual for the neighborhood. The space was originally a bakery in the 1950s, and the old oven is still partially visible behind the bar, repurposed as a shelf for liquor bottles.
The Historic Core: Drinking Near the Old City
Most visitors to Sultanahmet and the surrounding historic peninsula spend their evenings in hotel restaurants or tourist-oriented bars with views of the Blue Mosque. But there are a handful of genuine local pubs Istanbul has tucked into the older neighborhoods, places where the history of the city is not just a backdrop but part of the experience.
Ficcin
Ficcin is located in the Kumkapi neighborhood, just a short walk from the Sea of Marmara and within walking distance of the Sultanahlot district. This is a traditional meyhane that functions much like a pub in the way it draws a regular crowd night after night. The tables spill out onto the narrow street in warm weather, and the sound of shared laughter competes with the clatter of plates. The specialty here is fresh seafood, grilled octopus, fried calamari, and shrimp casserole, all served with the kind of raki that makes you understand why Turks consider it the lion's milk. Order a plate of "yeşil salata" (green salad) and a bowl of cacık to balance the richness of the fish. Friday and Saturday evenings are the most atmospheric, with live fasil music starting around 10 PM and continuing until the early hours. Kumkapi has been a dining and drinking district since the Byzantine era, when the harbor here served ships arriving from across the Mediterranean. The current building dates to the late Ottoman period, and the mosaic floor near the entrance is believed to be a remnant of an earlier structure. Most tourists have never heard of Ficcin, even though it is one of the most authentic drinking experiences in the old city.
A word of caution: the street gets very crowded on weekend evenings, and the tables are close together. If you value personal space, come on a weeknight instead.
Sofyalı 9
Sofyalı 9 is tucked into a narrow street in the Sofyalı area of Beyoglu, just south of the more tourist-heavy sections of Istiklal. The pub occupies a beautifully restored Ottoman-era townhouse, with high ceilings, original tile work, and a small courtyard that is magical on summer nights. The drink menu focuses on Turkish wines, and the staff can guide you through options from the Thrace region, Cappadocia, and the Aegean coast. The "Öküzgözü" grape from southeastern Turkey produces a rich, full-bodied red that pairs perfectly with the charcuterie board. The crowd is a mix of wine enthusiasts, neighborhood regulars, and the occasional visitor who has done their research. Tuesday and Wednesday evenings are the quietest and best for conversation, while Friday nights bring a younger, more energetic crowd. The street itself, Sofyalı Sokak, was named after a Sufi lodge that once stood here, and the area has been a center of intellectual and artistic life since the 19th century. Most people walk past the entrance without noticing it, marked only by a small lantern above the door.
Besiktas and the Bosphorus Shoreline
The neighborhoods along the European shore of the Bosphorus, from Ortakoy up through Besiktas and into the northern districts, have their own drinking culture that is distinct from both Beyoglu and Kadikoy. The local pubs Istanbul residents favor here tend to be more casual, more tied to the rhythms of daily life, and deeply connected to the waterfront.
Vogue
Vogue is located in the Akatlar neighborhood of Besiktas, in a modern building that also houses a restaurant and event space. This is one of the top bars Istanbul offers for anyone who wants a more upscale pub experience without the pretension of a full nightclub. The interior is sleek, with floor-to-ceiling windows that look out toward the Bosphorus, and the cocktail program is serious, with a dedicated mixologist who experiments with Turkish botanicals. The "Saffron Sour," made with saffron-infused syrup and fresh lemon, is a standout. The crowd is well-dressed but not stuffy, and the music stays at a level that allows actual conversation. The best time to come is Sunday evening, when the weekend crowd has thinned out and the staff has time to actually talk you through the menu. The building sits on land that was once part of a Ottoman imperial garden, and the terrace offers a view that stretches across to the Asian shore. Most visitors to Besiktas stick to the waterfront promenade and never venture up into Akatlar, which means the bar never feels overrun with tourists.
One thing to note: the prices here are noticeably higher than what you would pay in Kadikoy or even central Beyoglu. A cocktail runs about 350 to 450 TL, which adds up quickly.
Arnavutkoy and the Waterfront Meyhanes
Arnavutkoy, a small neighborhood on the European shore of the Bosphorus between Bebek and Ortakoy, is famous for its row of seafood restaurants and meyhanes that line the waterfront. While not pubs in the traditional sense, these establishments function as the neighborhood's local pubs Istanbul residents come to for long, leisurely evenings of drinking and eating. The best approach is to walk along the shore and choose a place that looks lively, because the quality is generally consistent across the row. Order a kilo of grilled fish, a spread of cold meze, and a bottle of raki, and settle in for the evening. The view of the Bosphorus Bridge lit up at night is one of the most iconic sights in Istanbul, and experiencing it from a waterfront table while sharing food with friends is something you will not forget. Weeknights are better than weekends, because the weekend crowds can be overwhelming and service suffers as a result. Arnavutkoy was historically an Albanian fishing village, which is what the name means, and the fishing boats still moor along the shore in the early morning. Most tourists come here for the Instagram photo and leave after one drink, but the real experience is staying for three or four hours and letting the evening unfold.
Cihangir and the quieter streets of Beyoglu
Cihangir has been Istanbul's most self-consciously bohemian neighborhood for decades, and its drinking spots reflect that identity. The streets are steep and narrow, the cats outnumber the people, and the local pubs Istanbul residents love here are small, personal, and slightly eccentric.
Kahvedan
Kahvedan is a tiny coffee shop and bar on a side street in Cihangir that blurs the line between daytime cafe and evening drinking spot. During the day, it serves some of the best Turkish coffee in the neighborhood, and after about 6 PM the wine bottles come out and the atmosphere shifts. The owner is a former journalist who knows everyone in the neighborhood, and the regulars include writers, translators, and a rotating cast of characters who seem to have stepped out of a novel. The wine list is small but thoughtful, with a focus on Turkish producers from the Thrace and Aegean regions. There is no food menu, but the owner will often bring out olives, cheese, and bread if you look hungry. The best time to come is on a weekday evening, when the space is quiet enough to actually hear the person across the table from you. The building is a typical Cihangir apartment from the early 20th century, with tall windows and a balcony that overlooks a courtyard full of stray cats. Most visitors to Cihangir stick to the main square and never find their way to this particular street, which is a shame because it captures the neighborhood's spirit better than anywhere else.
A realistic note: the space seats maybe 15 people, and there is no reservation system. If you arrive after 9 PM on a Friday, you will almost certainly have to wait or come back another night.
When to Go and What to Know
Istanbul's pub scene operates on its own schedule, and understanding the rhythm of the city will make your experience significantly better. Most pubs and bars do not fill up until at least 10 PM, and the energy peaks around midnight or later. If you arrive at 7 PM expecting a lively crowd, you will often find yourself alone or with just a handful of other early birds. Weeknights, particularly Tuesday through Thursday, are the best times to visit if you want to talk to the bartender, hear the music without shouting, and actually enjoy the space. Weekends are for energy and chaos, which can be fun but overwhelming.
Tipping is expected but not extravagant. Rounding up the bill or leaving 10 percent is standard practice. Credit cards are accepted at most established pubs, but smaller spots in Kadikoy and Cihangir may prefer cash, so it is wise to carry some Turkish lira. The legal drinking age in Turkey is 18, and while enforcement is generally relaxed at established venues, you may be asked for ID at newer or more upscale spots.
Getting home after a night of drinking requires some planning. Taxis are available but can be difficult to find in Beyoglu after midnight, and the ride-sharing apps sometimes surge to absurd prices. The Marmaray metro runs until about midnight, and the Kadikoy ferry is an option if you are on the Asian side. Many locals simply walk, because the neighborhoods where the best pubs are located are compact and safe enough for late-night wandering.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are there any specific dress codes or cultural etiquettes to keep in mind when visiting local spots in Istanbul?
Most pubs in Istanbul have no formal dress code, but smart casual is a safe bet for upscale spots in Besiklu or Beyoglu. Avoid wearing beachwear or athletic clothing when entering any establishment. It is considered polite to greet the staff when you arrive and say "iyi akşamlar" (good evening) before ordering. When drinking raki, the traditional method is to add cold water until it turns milky white, and it is customary to clink glasses while making eye contact with everyone at the table. During Ramadan, some smaller neighborhood pubs may adjust their hours or close earlier out of respect, though establishments in Beyoglu and Kadikoy generally operate normally.
How easy is it is to find pure vegetarian, or plant-based dining options in Istanbul?
Vegetarian options are widely available at most pubs and meyhanes, because Turkish cuisine has a strong tradition of vegetable-based meze. Standard offerings include haydari (thick yogurt with herbs), patlıcan salatası (smoked eggplant salad), cacık (yogurt with cucumber and garlic), and zeytinyağlı dishes (vegetables cooked in olive oil). Fully vegan options are harder to find at traditional meyhanes, but modern pubs in Beyoglu and Kadikoy increasingly list plant-based items on their menus. Dedicated vegan restaurants exist in neighborhoods like Cihangir and Moda, with at least 15 to 20 fully vegan establishments operating across the city as of 2024.
Is the tap water in Istanbul safe to drink, or should travelers strictly rely on filtered water options?
The tap water in Istanbul is technically treated and meets national safety standards, but most locals and long-term residents do not drink it directly. The water passes through aging infrastructure in many neighborhoods, which can affect taste and quality. Most households and restaurants use filtered water systems or purchase large bottled water containers called "damacana," which are delivered regularly. At pubs and bars, the water served at tables is almost always filtered or bottled. Travelers should budget approximately 30 to 50 TL for a large bottle of water at a restaurant, or carry a reusable bottle and refill it at the many filtered water stations now available in public spaces across the city.
Is Istanbul expensive to visit? Give a realistic daily budget breakdown for mid-tier travelers.
A mid-tier daily budget for Istanbul in 2024 breaks down roughly as follows: accommodation in a decent boutique hotel or well-located Airbnb costs between 1,500 and 3,000 TL per night. Meals at neighborhood restaurants and pubs run about 300 to 600 TL per person for a full dinner with drinks. A pint of craft beer at a pub costs approximately 150 to 250 TL, while a cocktail ranges from 250 to 450 TL. Public transportation using the Istanbulkart costs 15 TL per ride, and taxis for short trips within Beyoglu or Kadikoy typically run 100 to 200 TL. Altogether, a comfortable daily budget excluding accommodation falls in the range of 1,500 to 3,000 TL per person, depending on how much you drink and where you choose to eat.
What is the one must-try local specialty food or drink that Istanbul is famous for?
Raki is the definitive local drink, often called "lion's milk" for the way it turns cloudy white when mixed with cold water. It is an anise-flavored spirit traditionally served alongside a spread of meze and seafood, and drinking it is a ritual that unfolds over several hours rather than minutes. The most common brands are Yeni Raki and Tekirdağ, with the latter being slightly smoother and preferred by many locals. Pair it with a plate of midye tava (fried mussels), fresh white cheese, and slices of ripe watermelon for the classic Istanbul drinking experience. A standard 70 cl bottle costs between 400 and 800 TL depending on the brand and where you buy it, and a double pour at a pub runs about 150 to 250 TL.
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