Best Places to Buy Souvenirs in Sidi Bou Said (Skip the Tourist Junk)
Words by
Amira Ben Ali
If you want to experience the best souvenir shopping in Sidi Bou Said without wading through the same cheap trinkets you will find in every other Tunisian beach resort, you need to know where the locals actually spend their time and money. I have been coming to this hilltop neighborhood outside Tunis since I was a child, visiting my grandmother's house on Rue du Moulin, and over the years I have watched the souvenir trade transform from genuine craft into mass-produced imports masquerading as authenticity. This guide is the shopping map I wish someone had given me on my first visit as an adult, the one that would have saved me from buying three plastic "ceramic" plates that were made in China and shipped through Nabeul. I am going to walk you through the places where you will actually find things worth bringing home, the workshops where the artisans still work the pottery themselves, and the streets where the prices are fair because the sellers are not targeting cruise ship passengers with three hours to kill. Some of these spots are tucked into alleys that most tourists walk right past, and a few of them require a bit of patience or even a bit of French to unlock the best finds, but that effort is exactly what separates real discovery from tourist trap.
Rue de la Liberté: The Main Artery of Local Gifts Sidi Bou Said
Rue de la Liberté runs down the center of the village from the Place du Ptolémée where the taxis congregate, and it is where most visitors begin their souvenir hunt whether they know it or not. The street is lined with small shops on both sides, and while some of them cater specifically to tourists, others have been family businesses for decades and stock genuinely handmade items alongside the obvious pieces. Number 23, which belongs to the Ben Mansour family, has been producing hand-painted ceramic tiles since 1957, and you can still see old family photographs on the walls alongside the inventory of wall hangings, coasters, and decorative plates that feature the iconic cobalt blue and white that defines the entire neighborhood. The best time to visit this street is on weekday mornings between 9 and 11, when shop owners are still opening up and the cruise ships have not yet disgorged their passengers onto the harbor road below.
What most tourists do not realize is that the shopkeepers on Rue de la Liberté often have back rooms full of inventory that never makes it to the main display, especially larger items like decorative ceramic jars, traditional handwoven blankets, and antique brass items that they keep under cloth covers. If you ask politely and show genuine interest, particularly in French, many owners will bring out pieces that they consider too valuable or fragile for the browsing public. One thing you should know before you start negotiating here is that the posted prices are usually inflated by 30 to 40 percent specifically for tourists who do not ask, so it is entirely appropriate to offer 60 to 70 percent of the initial quote without insulting anyone. I have bought beautiful hand-embroidered table runners here for 15 dinars that would cost four times as much in a boutique hotel gift shop, and the key is simply treating the purchase as a conversation rather than a confrontation.
The Vibe? Workaday and authentic, with more locals shopping than tourists in the early hours.
The Bill? Traditional ceramic plates run 8 to 25 dinars depending on size and complexity of design.
The Standout? Request to see the back room inventory if you are interested in larger decorative pieces.
The Catch? Afternoon visits mean sharing the sidewalk with every other visitor who had the same idea.
The Pottery Quarter Above the Church
The neighborhood that climbs up the hill behind the Église Saint-Augustin contains the highest concentration of working pottery workshops in Sidi Bou Said, and this is where the authentic souvenirs Sidi Bou Said are actually made rather than just sold. Walk up the stairs from the Place du Ptolémée, past the small mosque on your left, and you will start to see the orange clay pieces drying in doorways and courtyards, often stacked on old wooden boards in the sun. The workshop of the Meherzi family sits at the end of a narrow alley that branches off from the main staircase, and they have been producing the traditional blue-glazed pottery here since the 1930s using techniques that have not changed in generations. You can watch the father and sometimes his sons shaping pieces on the wheel, and they are usually happy to explain the glazing process, which involves dipping the raw clay in a copper-based pigment that turns bright blue during the kiln firing.
The trick to buying from this area is to arrive before noon when the light is best for examining pieces and when the artisans are less rushed from the afternoon tourist traffic that picks up after the first cruise ships dock. I always recommend asking to see seconds, which are pieces with minor imperfections like small bubbles in the glaze or slightly uneven edges that do not affect function at all but get sold at a significant discount, often 40 to 50 percent below the first-quality price. The Meherzi family in particular is known for keeping a box of slightly flawed pieces under their workbench that they only show to customers who specifically ask, and I have picked up beautiful serving bowls and oil lamps from that box that I use daily in my own home. One practical detail that tourists often miss is that the staircase street is closed to vehicle traffic after 6 pm and reopened early on Sunday mornings for the weekly market, so visiting on Saturday afternoon gives you the peaceful workshop access that you simply cannot get during busy periods.
The Vibe? Artisan working space where you can watch production happening, not a showroom.
The Bill? Glazed pottery bowls and plates range from 12 to 45 dinars for first quality, with seconds discounted heavily.
The Standout? Requesting the seconds box and examining imperfect pieces closely for hidden value.
The Catch? The walk up the hill is steep, and there is no shade, so bring water in summer.
Souk El Trouk: The Covered Market Near the Bus Station
Most visitors to Sidi Bou Said never find Souk El Trouk, which is a covered market located near where the louage shared taxis depart for Tunis, and this is honestly one of the most disappointing oversights I see among tourists who come here looking for what to buy in Sidi Bou Said. The souk is not picturesque, it is not Instagram-worthy, and it smells like spices and old leather, but it contains stalls that have been operating continuously for over a century, selling practical items alongside traditional crafts that you will not find in the polished boutiques along the main tourist drag. There is a leather worker on the left side of the entrance who makes traditional babouche slippers and flat leather bags that are genuinely made in the back room while you wait, and he has done this for 35 years, having taken over the stall from his own father. The key to navigating Souk El Trouk is to visit with no agenda, to browse slowly, and to remember that haggling here is expected and actually enjoyed as a form of social interaction rather than being resented.
The spice stall near the back of the souk sells harissa paste in various strengths and traditional spice blends that you will not find in the tourist shops, including a particular ras el hanout mix that the vendor's family has been producing for four generations. Buy a small bag, smell it before committing, and ask the seller to explain what goes into it, because the conversation itself is often more valuable than the product. I always buy my olive oil here too, from a stall run by a woman whose family produces it from their own grove near Zaghouan, and she keeps it in simple plastic bottles rather than fancy glass because she considers the oil itself more important than the packaging. The market is open every day except Friday afternoon and Sunday morning, with the best selection appearing Wednesday and Saturday mornings when the vendors restock after the weekly market at Souk El Jamea.
The Vibe? Rough, working-class market with zero pretense and zero tourist markup if you buy intelligently.
The Bill? Leather babouche slippers cost 18 to 30 dinars depending on quality, and spice blends run 3 to 8 dinars per small bag.
The Standout? The olive oil direct from a family producer, sold simply and honestly.
The Catch? The market is confusing if you do not speak French or Arabic, and prices here start higher than they should because some tourists have conditioned vendors to expect less haggling.
The Sunday Market at Souk El Jamea
Every Sunday morning from 7 am until around 1 pm, the large open square near the old Ottoman cemetery becomes Souk El Jamea, which translates to the Friday market despite being held on Sunday, a remnant of the pre-colonial calendar system that locals still use for this particular gathering. This weekly market is not specifically a tourist market, and in fact most of the vendors and customers are Tunisians from the surrounding neighborhoods who come to buy produce, clothing, household goods, and traditional items alongside the souvenir hunters who have learned to time their visits correctly. The market sprawls across the entire square and down the side streets that radiate from it, with different sections dedicated to different types of goods, and the textile vendors cluster toward the eastern edge where old blankets and fabrics are spread directly on the ground for inspection.
The best buys here for someone looking for authentic souvenirs Sidi Bou Said are the hand-woven burnous blankets, which are the traditional wool throws that Tunisians have used for centuries and that are now increasingly rare to find in commercial production. The blankets sold at Souk El Jamea come from cooperatives in the northwest of the country, and while they are not made in Sidi Bou Said itself, they represent a level of authentic Tunisian craft that simply cannot be found in the boutique windows along Rue de la Liberté. I always look for the ones with natural dyes, which show as cream and gray-brown tones rather than the bright colors, because these are typically older stock that has been stored properly and will last for decades without fading. The trick to buying at Souk El Jamea is to arrive before 9 am, when prices are firmest because vendors have not yet assessed the crowd, and to wait until late morning to actually purchase, when they are more willing to negotiate rather than hold out for perfect prices.
The Vibe? Overwhelming, loud, energetic, and absolutely genuine, with zero performance for visitors.
The Bill? Hand-woven burnous blankets range from 35 to 80 dinars depending on size and condition, with used vintage pieces at the lower end.
The Standout? The opportunity to buy directly from producers rather than intermediaries, particularly for textiles and kitchen goods.
The Catch? Sunday is the busiest day in Sidi Bou Said for tourist traffic, and the market gets hot and crowded by mid-morning with no shade and few facilities.
Galerie Sakakini and the Art Quarter
Sidi Bou Said has been an artist colony since the 1920s, when French painters like Paul Klee and Augustin Roulin discovered the distinctive blue-and-white palette of the village and began establishing studios here, and this artistic heritage continues today in the galleries that line the streets near the Place du Ptolémée. Galerie Sakakini is perhaps the most established of these spaces, occupying a restored traditional house on a side street off Rue de la Liberté, and it features work by Tunisian artists alongside pieces from across North Africa, with rotating exhibitions that showcase everything from contemporary oil paintings to traditional calligraphy and decorative arts. The gallery is run by the Sakakini family, who have been collecting and promoting Arab and Mediterranean art for over 40 years, and the quality of what they display is consistently high in a way that you simply will not find in the casual souvenir shops that line the main commercial streets.
Buying art here is not cheap, and a small original painting can easily run several hundred dinars, but the gallery also stocks more accessible items like high-quality prints, handcrafted paper goods, and limited-edition ceramics that were produced in collaboration with local artisans. I have purchased prints of work by Mahmoud Bououni and Nabil Azouz here that I still have framed in my home, and the staff is knowledgeable enough to help you understand the context and significance of the pieces you are considering. One thing that most visitors do not realize is that many of the galleries in Sidi Bou Said are open by appointment only during the winter months from November through March, so if you are planning a trip during the low season, you should contact them in advance rather than simply walking over. The gallery is closed on Tuesday, open 10 am to 6 pm the rest of the week during summer, and the owner speaks excellent English, which is not always easy to find in the village outside the more tourist-oriented businesses.
The Vibe? Serious, curated, and appropriate for anyone looking to buy genuine art rather than mere decoration.
The Bill? Original paintings start around 200 dinars, with prints and smaller works available from 25 dinars upward.
The Standout? The opportunity to discuss the artists and their work with knowledgeable staff who can ship purchases internationally.
The Catch? Prices here reflect genuine artistic value rather than souvenir novelty, so your purchases will not look like typical tourist memorabilia.
The Weavers Cooperative on Rue du Petit Caire
Rue du Petit Caire is a side street that runs parallel to Rue de la Liberté toward the eastern edge of the village, and it is home to a women's weaving cooperative that produces the traditional hand-embroidered textiles that have been a specialty of Sidi Bou Said for generations. The cooperative was established in the 1970s as part of a national initiative to preserve traditional crafts and provide economic opportunities for women in rural and semi-rural areas, and it has maintained its commitment to quality and authenticity in the decades since, refusing to machine-produce items that could be made by hand. The embroidery work here is extraordinary, with intricate patterns worked in white cotton thread on blue fabric that reference both traditional Berber designs and Ottoman influences, producing pieces that are visually stunning and culturally significant.
When you visit the cooperative, you will typically be welcomed by one of the senior women who will show you around the working space where several weavers sit at their frames, often with grandchildren nearby, and the atmosphere is completely different from the transactional feel of the tourist shops on the main street. The cooperative sells directly to visitors without the markup that retail intermediaries require, and the prices for tablecloths, pillowcases, and decorative panels are surprisingly reasonable given the hundreds of hours that go into each piece. I always advise visitors to ask about custom work, because the cooperative accepts orders for specific sizes and designs that are not available off the shelf, though you should plan to return to collect the finished piece or arrange for shipping. The cooperative is open Monday through Saturday from 9 am to 5 pm, and it is closed on Sunday and all public holidays, a schedule that reflects the working lives of the women who staff it rather than tourist convenience.
The Vibe? Community workspace where craft tradition is alive and practiced daily, not displayed as heritage.
The Bill? Embroidered tablecloths range from 60 to 150 dinars depending on size and complexity, with smaller items starting around 20 dinars.
The Standout? The possibility of commissioning custom work in specific sizes or with personalized designs.
The Catch? The cooperative has limited quantities of finished pieces, so specific items may not be available when you visit.
The Old Harbor and Fishing Quarter
The old fishing harbor at the base of the Sidi Bou Said cliff is where the village's working life continues largely unchanged by the tourist trade that dominates the hill above, and the small boatyard here produces wooden fishing vessels using techniques that go back centuries. Walking down the staircase from the Place du Ptolémée to the harbor takes about ten minutes, and you will pass a few small shops that sell practical items for fishermen alongside occasional craft pieces that are worth examining carefully. The boatyard itself is not a retail space, but the craftsmen who work there sometimes have small items for sale, and if you show genuine interest in their work, they will occasionally offer pieces of the decorative woodcarving that they incorporate into the boat bows.
The harbor area has a small cafe where fishermen take their morning coffee before heading out, and this is where I go when I want to experience the real character of Sidi Bou Said rather than the curated version that tourists typically see. The fish market that operates in the mornings from around 7 until noon is not a tourist attraction at all, but it is one of the most vivid and authentic experiences available in the neighborhood, and watching the boats unload and the auction proceed gives you a sense of place that the souvenir shops simply cannot provide. I once bought a small wooden model of a traditional felucca sailing boat from a craftsman who worked at the boatyard, and he carved it for me over the course of a single afternoon while I sat nearby and watched, a purchase that cost me 25 dinars and that I value far more than any of the polished items I have bought in the formal shops.
The Vibe? Working port atmosphere that is entirely functional and unselfconscious about its lack of aesthetic appeal.
The Bill? Small wooden boat models and decorative carvings range from 15 to 40 dinars depending on complexity.
The Standout? The chance to watch active boatbuilding and to purchase items directly from the craftspeople who made them.
The Catch? The harbor is a genuine working environment, which means it can smell like fish, and the shops here have irregular opening hours that are entirely dependent on the fishermen's daily schedules.
Enjoyed this guide? Support the work