Best Spots for Traditional Food in Sukhothai That Actually Get It Right

Photo by  Christian Dala

23 min read · Sukhothai, Thailand · traditional food ·

Best Spots for Traditional Food in Sukhothai That Actually Get It Right

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Words by

Anchalee Wipawat

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Someone who has spent years eating her way through Sukhothai's old city and new town knows that finding the best traditional food in Sukhothai takes more than a quick Google search. It means waking up before the heat sets in, following the smell of charcoal grills down narrow sois, and learning which aunties have been ladling the same curry for three decades. This is local cuisine Sukhothai at its most honest, served on plastic stools or wooden platforms by people who learned from their grandparents, not from cooking schools. What follows is a personal directory of spots that deliver authentic food Sukhothai deserves more credit for, from legendary noodle stalls to riverside kitchens where the must eat dishes Sukhothai is famous for are prepared exactly as they should be.

Morning Markets and Breakfast Culture in Sukhothai

Sukhothai's day starts early, and so should you. The city's breakfast culture is one of the most underrated aspects of its food scene, and understanding the rhythm of the morning markets will unlock a side of local cuisine Sukhothai visitors rarely see. The old city, the area within the ancient walls, wakes up around 5:30 AM when vendors begin setting up near the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum area and along the main road that runs east from the central zone. By 6:30 AM, the grills are already smoking, the congee pots are bubbling, and the first rounds of freshly fried roti are being torn apart. This is where you find the must eat dishes Sukhothai locals crave before the tourist buses arrive at 9 AM.

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Talat Sukhothai Morning Market (Near Ramkhamhaeng National Museum)

The Scene? A compact wet market that transforms into a breakfast bazaar from roughly 5:30 AM to 9:30 AM, then mostly disappears by 10 AM. You will see monks receiving alms on the periphery while vendors call out prices for pork belly, fresh coconut, and nam prik noom.

The Must-Order? Khao tom, the Thai rice soup, made with either pork or chicken, served with a side of fried garlic and a soft-boiled egg. Also grab a bag of khanom krok, the little coconut pancakes cooked in a cast-iron pan with dimples, for about 10 baht per portion.

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The Insider Detail? Walk past the main row of stalls toward the back where an older woman sells khao niaw mamuang, mango sticky rice, but only during the mango season from roughly March to May. She uses Nam Dok Mai mangoes she gets from a cousin's orchard in Phitsanulok province. Most tourists never make it past the pork skewers at the front.

The Connection to Sukhothai? This market sits in the shadow of the old city's historical park, and the families selling here have been trading in this zone for at least two generations, some since before the museum was built in the 1960s. The recipes, particularly the curry pastes and the congee broths, reflect the central Thai cooking traditions that Sukhothai helped shape during the Sukhothai Kingdom period.

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The Catch? Parking a scooter on the narrow road beside the market after 7 AM becomes genuinely difficult. If you are renting a motorbike, arrive before 6:30 or park a block away and walk in.

The Roti Stalls on Naresuan Road

The Setup? A cluster of three or four roti carts along Naresuan Road, the main thoroughfare of the new town, operating from around 6 AM until they sell out, usually by 11 AM. The most established one is run by a Muslim-Thai family that has been at this corner for over 20 years.

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The Order? Roti with banana and egg, drizzled with condensed milk and a thin line of sugar. For something savory, ask for roti with curry, the yellow chicken curry that is milder and more coconut-rich than what you find in southern Thailand.

The Local Tip? The family makes their own curry paste from scratch each morning. If you arrive before 7 AM, you can watch the grandmother pounding lemongrass and turmeric in a stone mortar at the back of the cart. She has done this every morning for as long as anyone in the neighborhood can remember.

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Why It Matters? Sukhothai has a small but historically significant Muslim community, and the roti tradition here reflects centuries of cultural exchange along trade routes. This is authentic food Sukhothai that tells a story about the city's diversity beyond the temple ruins.

The Catch? The banana roti gets soggy fast. Eat it standing at the cart or within two minutes of receiving it, or the texture collapses.

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The Legendary Sukhothai Noodle Houses

No discussion of the best traditional food in Sukhothai is complete without addressing the city's most famous dish, the Sukhothai-style noodle soup known as kuay tiaw Sukhothai. This is a rice noodle dish in a sweet, light broth topped with sliced pork, green beans, peanuts, and a dressing of fish sauce, sugar, and chili vinegar. Every Thai food guide mentions it, but most visitors end up at the same two or three places near the old city gate. Here is where to go instead, and where the classics still deliver.

Kuay Tiaw Sam Chai (Soi Phra Ram, Old City)

The Vibe? A family-run shop in a narrow soi just south of the old city's western zone, operating from a ground-floor space in a concrete house. Seating is at most eight small tables. The open kitchen is right in front of you, and the broth is simmering in a massive pot that has reportedly not been fully emptied and scrubbed in over 15 years, the same way traditional broth pots are meant to age.

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The Bill? 40 to 50 baht for a regular bowl, 60 baht for a large. Extra pork or crispy pork belly is an additional 20 baht.

The Standout? Order the kuay tiaw Sukhothai nam, the soup version, not the dry style. Ask for it with nam chim Sukhothai, the local dipping sauce made from fish sauce, palm sugar, dried chilies, and garlic. The balance of sweet, sour, and salty in the broth here is more refined than at the bigger-name shops near the city gate.

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The Catch? They close by 2 PM most days and are closed on Wednesdays. If you show up at 1:45, they may already be out of the crispy pork belly topping.

Sukhothai Noodle House on Srisanalai Road

The Setting? Located on Srisanalai Road, the road that connects the old city to the historical park's western section, this place has been operating since the early 1990s. It is slightly more set up for tourists than Sam Chai, with a covered outdoor area and a small menu board in English.

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The Must-Eat? The dry-style kuay tiaw Sukhothai, tossed in the sweet-savory sauce with pork, green beans, and crushed peanuts, served with a side of clear broth. Also try the fresh spring rolls, which are stuffed with jicama and shrimp, a combination you do not see everywhere.

The Insider Knowledge? The owner sources her rice noodles from a small producer in Phitsanulok who uses a traditional hand-pulling method. The noodles have a slightly chewier texture than the machine-made ones used at cheaper spots. You can tell by the irregular thickness of each strand.

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The Historical Connection? Srisanalai Road runs past Wat Si Chum and other key temple sites, and this shop has been feeding archaeologists, researchers, and park staff for decades. The recipe has not changed because the family believes the original Sukhothai noodle style was always meant to be this specific balance of sweet broth and crunchy toppings.

The Catch? The outdoor seating area has no shade, and from March to May the midday sun makes sitting there genuinely unpleasant between 11 AM and 2 PM. Go early or after 3 PM.

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Street Food and Evening Grills

Sukhothai's street food scene comes alive after dark, particularly in the new town area and along the roads that border the Yom River. This is where you find the must eat dishes Sukhothai locals eat when they are not performing for tourists, grilled meats, som tam variations, and the northeastern-influenced salads that reflect the Isaan migration patterns of the last century. The local cuisine Sukhothai serves at night is bolder, spicier, and more varied than what you find at breakfast.

The Night Market on Naresuan Road (New Town)

The Scene? Every evening from around 5 PM to 10 PM, the stretch of Naresuan Road near the new town's central intersection fills with food carts, pop-up grills, and tented seating areas. This is not a formal night market with a name on Google Maps. It is an organic gathering of vendors that has grown over the years into the most reliable place for street food in the new town.

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The Must-Eat? Gai yang, grilled marinated chicken, cooked over charcoal and served with sticky rice and a tamarind-based dipping sauce. Also look for the som tam pu, the version of green papaya salad mixed with salted black crab, which is a Lao-influenced style common in this part of Thailand.

The Local Tip? There is a woman who sets up a small cart near the 7-Eleven on this stretch who sells khao khluk kapi, shrimp paste rice, with fried egg, sweet pork, and fresh mango. She only makes about 30 portions per night. Arrive by 6 PM or she will be sold out.

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The Catch? The road traffic on Naresuan is heavy and loud. If you are eating at the roadside tables, you will be breathing motorcycle exhaust the entire time. The vendors with slightly raised platforms at the back of the row are a better bet for air quality.

The Grilled Fish Stalls Along the Yom River

The Setup? On the road that runs along the eastern bank of the Yom River, south of the main bridge, a handful of open-air restaurants specialize in grilled river fish. These are not fancy places. You sit on wooden platforms, the charcoal smoke drifts across the table, and the fish is scaled and stuffed with lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves right in front of you.

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The Order? Pla pao, whole salt-crusted grilled fish, usually snakehead or catfish, served with a nam jim seafood dipping sauce that hits every note: sour from lime, hot from bird's eye chili, funky from raw garlic, sweet from palm sugar. Order it with a side of khao chao, the crispy fried rice that is a northeastern specialty.

The Insider Detail? The fish comes from the Yom River itself, and the vendors buy it each morning from fishermen at the river landing near Wat Phra Phai Luang. If you ask, they will tell you what was caught that day. During the rainy season from June to October, the fish selection is wider because the river is fuller.

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The Historical Angle? The Yom River was one of the key waterways that sustained the Sukhothai Kingdom, and river fish has been a dietary staple here for over 700 years. Eating grilled fish on its banks is about as connected to the land as food gets in this part of Thailand.

The Catch? Mosquitoes. Bring repellent or eat at one of the stalls that has a fan-driven mosquito coil burning near the seating area. From November to February it is manageable, but during the wet season the bugs can be relentless.

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Riverside and Old City Hidden Kitchens

Beyond the noodle shops and street grills, Sukhothai has a quieter food culture that operates out of small home kitchens and semi-private dining spaces. These are the places where authentic food Sukhothai is prepared with the least compromise, often by older cooks who are not trying to build a brand or attract Instagram attention. Finding them requires a bit of asking around, but the reward is some of the most memorable meals you will have in the region.

The Kitchen Behind Wat Sa Si

The Location? On a small lane that runs behind Wat Sa Si, inside the historical park's central zone, there is a house where an elderly woman cooks lunch for a small number of guests each day. There is no sign. You need to ask at the small convenience store at the corner of the lane, and someone will point you to the right door.

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The Meal? She prepares a set menu that changes daily but typically includes a gaeng hang lay, the Burmese-influenced pork belly curry with ginger and tamarind, a nam prik noom with fresh vegetables, sticky rice, and a dessert of either tub tim krob or khao niaw tuarean, durian sticky rice when in season.

The Bill? Around 150 to 200 baht per person for a full spread. She does not post prices, so be prepared to pay what she asks, which is always fair.

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The Insider Knowledge? She learned to cook from her mother, who was of Mon descent, and the gaeng hang lay recipe includes a small amount of pickled mango that you will not find in most central Thai versions of the curry. This is a direct culinary link to the Mon cultural influence that shaped parts of Sukhothai's food traditions.

The Catch? She cooks for a maximum of 12 people per day and does not take reservations by phone because she does not have a phone. You need to show up in person before 10 AM to secure a spot for lunch. If you arrive at noon, you are too late.

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The Shophouse Restaurant on Singhawat Road

The Setting? Singhawat Road, the main commercial street of the new town, has several old shophouses that have been converted into small restaurants. One of them, a narrow two-story building with a hand-painted sign, specializes in central Thai dishes that are increasingly hard to find as the city modernizes.

The Must-Order? Pad thai with fresh shrimp, cooked over high heat in a well-seasoned wok, and tom yum goong made with large river prawns and the nam khai bua style, which uses a roasted chili paste rather than the creamy tom yum most tourists expect.

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The Local Tip? The cook uses tamarind paste she makes herself each week, soaking the pulp in water and straining it through cheesecloth. The resulting pad thai has a deeper, more complex sourness than the bottled paste most places use. Ask for it slightly less sweet than default, and the balance shifts beautifully.

The Connection to Place? Singhawah Road was one of the first paved roads in the new town, and the shophouses here date to the 1950s and 1960s. The restaurant occupies a building that was originally a tailor's shop, and the family converted it to food service in the 1980s. The recipes come from the owner's grandmother, who cooked for a wealthy family in the area before opening her own kitchen.

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The Catch? The air conditioning is limited to one small unit on the ground floor. The second floor, where additional seating is available, gets very warm from March to May. Stick to the ground floor during hot months.

Sweet Endings and Snack Culture

Sukhothai's dessert and snack traditions are often overlooked, but they represent some of the most distinctive local cuisine Sukhothai has to offer. From the khanom jeen fermented rice noodles to the various khanom krok and khanom buang stalls scattered through the old city, the sweet side of Sukhothai's food culture is worth dedicating an afternoon to exploring.

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The Khanom Jeen Stall Near Wat Phra Phai Luang

The Location? On the road that runs along the southern edge of Wat Phra Phai Luang, a small stall operates each morning selling khanom jeen, thin fermented rice noodles, with a rotating selection of curries and side dishes. The stall is identifiable by the large metal pots and the cluster of local workers who gather there between 7 AM and 10 AM.

The Order? Khanom jeen with gaeng kua supparod, the pineapple curry, which is a coconut-based curry with chunks of pineapple, shrimp, and a gentle heat. It is served with a plate of fresh herbs, blanched vegetables, and crispy fried shallots.

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The Insider Detail? The fermentation process for the noodles takes two days, and the woman who runs the stall starts the batch each Friday for Sunday's service. The slight sourness of the noodles is what makes the combination with the sweet pineapple curry work so well.

The Catch? She closes by 10:30 AM. There is no flexibility on this. If you arrive at 11, the pots are already being washed.

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The Coconut Dessert Vendor at Sukhothai Historical Park West Gate

The Setup? Near the western entrance to the historical park, a vendor with a wooden cart sells khanom krok and khanom buang, the crispy Thai crepes filled with meringue and sweet egg yolk strands. She has been at this spot for over a decade, and her cart is a familiar landmark for anyone who has visited the park's western temples.

The Must-Try? Khanom krok with a filling of green onion and corn for the savory version, and the sweet version with egg yolk threads. The crispy edges and creamy center are the textural combination that makes this snack addictive.

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The Local Tip? She uses fresh coconut cream pressed from coconuts she buys at the morning market each day. The batter is made fresh every two hours, which is why the texture is consistently better at the start of her shift than at the end.

The Historical Note? Khanom krok has been made in central Thailand for centuries, and the technique of cooking the batter in a heated cast-iron mold with dimples is directly descended from methods used in the Ayutthaya period. Sukhothai's version is slightly thinner and crispier than what you find in Bangkok, a regional variation that most food writers ignore.

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The Catch? The cart is exposed to direct sun from late morning onward. In April and May, the heat makes the egg yolk filling in the sweet version start to dry out after about two hours. Go before 11 AM for the best texture.

Regional Specialties and Cross-Cultural Influences

Sukhothai's position as a historical crossroads means its food carries influences from multiple directions: Mon, Lao, Burmese, and central Thai traditions all converge here. The best traditional food in Sukhothai reflects this layering, and several dishes you will find in the city are either unique to the region or prepared in a style that differs meaningfully from what you encounter elsewhere in Thailand.

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The Nam Prik Noom Vendor at the Old City Gate

The Location? At the main entrance to the old city, where the road from the new town passes through the ancient wall, there is a small stall that sells nam prik noom, the green chili dip made with roasted green chilies, garlic, and cilantro, served with fresh and steamed vegetables. This is a northern and northeastern Thai staple, but the Sukhothai version has its own character.

The Must-Eat? Nam prik noom with moo ping, grilled pork skewers, and a plate of fresh vegetables including Thai eggplant, cabbage, and long beans. Also ask for the khaep mu, crispy pork rinds, which are made in-house and have a lighter, airier texture than the factory-produced ones.

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The Insider Knowledge? The vendor roasts her chilies over a charcoal brazier rather than using a gas stove, which gives the dip a smokiness that is hard to replicate. She also adds a small amount of nam pla pu, fermented fish sauce, that you will not find in most nam prik noom recipes. This is a distinctly local touch.

The Catch? The stall is small and has only four tables. During the lunch rush from 12 PM to 1 PM, you may need to wait 15 to 20 minutes for a seat.

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The Khao Soi Shop on Pravet Rattan Road

The Setting? Pravet Rattan Road, on the eastern side of the new town, is home to a small restaurant that specializes in khao soi, the northern Thai coconut curry noodle soup. While khao soi is more commonly associated with Chiang Mai, the Sukhothai version has a slightly thinner broth and uses pickled mustard greens as a topping rather than the raw shallots and lime you find in the north.

The Order? Khao soi gai, the chicken version, with the crispy fried noodle topping on the side so you can add them yourself and control the crunch-to-sog ratio. Order it with the side of pickled mustard greens and a small dish of chili flakes in oil.

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The Local Tip? The broth uses a curry paste that includes turmeric root rather than just turmeric powder, giving it a more earthy, less dusty flavor. The owner grinds the paste each morning in a stone mortar, and the difference is noticeable.

The Historical Connection? The presence of khao soi in Sukhothai reflects the migration of Lanna people into the region over the past century. This is not an ancient Sukhothai dish, but it has become part of the city's food identity, a reminder that local cuisine Sukhothai is not frozen in the 13th century. It evolves with each wave of people who settle here.

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The Catch? The restaurant is open from 10 AM to 3 PM and closed on Mondays. The seating area is small, and during the February to April high season, it fills with domestic tourists from Bangkok who have read about it online.

When to Go and What to Know

Sukhothai's food calendar follows the agricultural and religious rhythms of central Thailand. The cool season from November to February is the most comfortable time to eat outdoors, and many vendors operate at full capacity during these months. The hot season, March to May, means that some stalls close earlier in the day to avoid the worst of the afternoon heat. The rainy season from June to October brings fewer tourists but also occasional flooding in low-lying areas near the Yom River, which can temporarily close the riverside restaurants.

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For the best traditional food in Sukhothai, plan your eating schedule around the day. Start at a breakfast market by 6:30 AM, have noodles for a late morning meal around 10:30 AM before the lunch rush, explore the old city's hidden kitchens for an early lunch, and save the grilled fish and street food for the evening. Carry cash in small denominations, as most street vendors and small shops do not accept cards. Dress modestly when eating near temple sites, not because anyone will enforce a strict dress code, but because it is the respectful thing to do in a city that takes its heritage seriously.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are there any specific dress codes or cultural etiquettes to keep in mind when visiting local spots in Sukhothai?

There is no enforced dress code at most food stalls or local restaurants in Sukhothai, but you should cover your shoulders and knees when eating near temple grounds or within the historical park zone. At the small family-run kitchens, it is polite to remove your shoes before entering if you see other diners or the host has removed theirs. Tipping is not expected at street stalls, but leaving 10 to 20 baht at a sit-down restaurant is appreciated. Pointing with your feet or touching someone with your foot is considered rude, so be mindful of how you position yourself on the floor at low-table dining spots.

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How easy is it to find pure vegetarian, vegan, or plant-based dining options in Sukhothai?

Finding strictly vegan food at street stalls is difficult because most Thai cooking uses fish sauce, shrimp paste, or oyster sauce as a base seasoning. However, several Buddhist temple kitchens in the old city serve vegetarian meals on holy days, which fall on the new moon and full moon, roughly every two weeks. Jay restaurants, the Thai term for vegan eateries, exist in the new town area, and you can find at least two or three within walking distance of Naresuan Road. When ordering at regular stalls, say "mai sai nam pla, mai sai kapi, mai sai kung" to request no fish sauce, no shrimp paste, and no shrimp, but be aware that some cooks may still use oyster sauce without thinking to mention it.

Is Sukhothai expensive to visit? Give a realistic daily budget breakdown for mid-tier travelers.

A mid-tier daily budget for Sukhothai is approximately 1,200 to 1,800 baht per person, excluding accommodation. This covers three meals of local food at 40 to 80 baht per meal, one or two drinks, scooter rental at 200 to 250 baht per day, and the historical park entrance fee of 100 baht per zone, with the central zone requiring an additional 100 baht. Accommodation in the new town ranges from 400 baht for a basic guesthouse to 1,500 baht for a mid-range hotel with a pool. A two-day visit with comfortable lodging, all meals, park entry, and transport will cost roughly 3,000 to 4,000 baht per person.

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Is the tap water in Sukhothai safe to drink, or should travelers strictly rely on filtered water options?

Tap water in Sukhothai is treated and technically safe by municipal standards, but most locals do not drink it directly. You will see water dispensers throughout the city offering filtered or reverse osmosis water for 1 baht per liter, and most guesthouses and restaurants use this water for cooking and drinking. Ice in restaurants and at street stalls is almost always made from filtered water and is safe to consume. Carry a reusable bottle and refill it at the dispensers found at 7-Eleven stores, gas stations, and most accommodation properties. If you are particularly cautious, stick to bottled water, which costs 7 to 12 baht for a 600ml bottle at any convenience store.

What is the one must-try local specialty food or drink that Sukhothai is famous for?

Sukhothai is most famous for its kuay tiaw Sukhothai, the rice noodle soup in a sweet broth with pork, green beans, peanuts, and crispy fried garlic, dressed with fish sauce, sugar, and chili vinegar. The broth is lighter and sweeter than most Thai noodle soups, and the combination of textures from the soft noodles, crunchy peanuts, and tender pork is what distinguishes it. You should also try the local khanom jeen with pineapple curry, a combination that is harder to find outside the region. For a drink, the fresh coconut water sold at the morning market, often served straight from the coconut with a straw, is the most refreshing thing you will find in the city during the hot months.

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