Most Historic Pubs in Girona With Real Character and Good Stories
Words by
Carlos Rodriguez
I've spent more evenings in historic pubs in Girona than I can count, and each one along these cobblestone streets has a story etched into its wooden beams and stone walls. The city's medieval heart beats strongest in these old bars where the countermen know your name by the third visit and the taps have been pouring the same local brews for decades.
Bar L'Argenteria on Carrer d'Argenteria
This narrow passage bar sits tucked away just off Plaça de Sant Jaume, where the original 14th-century silver workshops once lined this street. I pushed through the heavy oak door last Thursday evening and immediately caught the scent of aged mahogany mixed with something I later learned was decades of spilled vermouth soaking into the floorboards. The zinc bar stretches the length of the room, polished smooth by countless elbows.
Local Insider Tip: "[Ask for the 'botella escondida' behind the mirror – owner Miquel keeps a secret reserve of priorat wine that isn't on any menu, and he'll only pour it for locals or guests who ask in Catalan]"
What makes L'Argenteria special is its complete refusal to change. The original Gothic vaulted ceiling remains intact, and the brass fixtures date back to 1892. Order the house vermouth on ice with a slice of orange, then follow it with a plate of butifarra amb oli. They close at 11 PM on weekdays, but Thursday through Saturday they stay open until 1 AM when the real crowd arrives.
Most tourists walk straight past this place thinking it's just another souvenir shop front, but the wooden sign featuring a silver chalice is easy to miss. The back room has a hidden courtyard garden that even guidebooks don't mention, and on summer nights the owner's grandmother sits there knitting while she watches the street.
Els Tres Porcs on Carrer Major
Right in the thick of the old city center on the main drag, this heritage pub occupies what was once a 15th-century merchant's house. I stopped in during a rainy Tuesday afternoon and found myself the only customer, which let me chat with Joan, the bartender who has worked here for thirty-two years. The walls are lined with antique porcelain pigs, and the story goes that each represents a different member of the founding family.
Local Insider Tip: "[Sit at table number four by the window where the afternoon light hits the stained glass just right – that's where journalist George Orwell wrote part of Homage to Catalonia, according to local legend]"
The house specialty is their house-made Cava infused with local herbs, served in thick-bottomed goblets that feel substantial in your hands. Pair it with their anchovy montaditos, which they prepare tableside. Sunday afternoons from 4 to 7 PM they serve their famous suquet de peix, a fish stew that requires advance ordering.
The building itself was declared a cultural monument in 1987, and you can still see the original stone foundations exposed beneath the bar. Most visitors never notice the small plaque commemorating the republican meetings held in the attic during the Spanish Civil War, but if you look closely you'll spot bullet holes in the upper floor joists that were never repaired.
La Confiteria on Plaça de Sant Feliu
Set in the shadow of the cathedral on this leafy square, La Confiteria operates inside what was originally a 16th-century pharmacy. I visited during the Sunday market last month and watched elderly regulars gather around the marble-topped tables while the owner's son played flamenco guitar in the corner. The wooden cigar cases mounted on the walls were hand-carved by monks from the nearby monastery in the 1800s.
Local Insider Tip: "[Order the 'café con leche doble' in the morning and ask for it served in the original porcelain cups from 1923 – they're kept in a locked display case and the owner will bring them out if he likes your accent]"
Their churros con chocolate are legendary, but don't come at night expecting them – they stop frying at 11 AM sharp. The late afternoon is when this classic drinking spot really comes alive, with locals sipping sherry while watching the cathedral bells ring. The original pharmacy mortar and pestle still sits behind the bar, though now it holds nothing more dangerous than sugar cubes.
What most tourists don't realize is that this square was once the site of public executions, and the iron ring still embedded in the stone wall where prisoners were tied serves as a dark reminder. The building's original apothecary drawers are now used to store bottles of their private reserve vermouth, each labeled with a different medicinal herb.
Bar Brutal on Carrer de la Palla
This quirky heritage pub occupies a 17th-century building near the Jewish quarter, where the stone walls are so thick that phones lose signal the moment you step inside. I discovered it by accident last Friday when I ducked in seeking shelter from a sudden summer thunderstorm. The owners describe themselves as "natural wine revolutionaries" and the wine list changes daily based on whatever small producers they managed to convince to deliver.
Local Insider Tip: "[The best time to visit is Tuesday evening around 8 PM when they receive new shipments – the staff will let you taste samples straight from the boxes before deciding what goes on the menu]"
Every bottle here comes from biodynamic vineyards within a 200-kilometer radius, and they maintain a strict no-additives policy. The orange wine pairs surprisingly well with their selection of cured meats, particularly the botifarra negra they source from a farm outside Ripoll. Monday through Thursday they offer a set menu of three small plates for twelve euros.
The building itself was originally a convent guesthouse, and nuns still maintain the tiny chapel in the back where you'll find candle stubs from visitors making wishes. Most people never notice the original Hebrew inscription carved into the lintel above the bathroom door, a remnant from when this neighborhood housed Girona's largest Jewish population.
Can Ronal on Carrer dels Arcs
Located in the trendy but still authentic Barri Vell neighborhood, this classic drinking spot claims to be the oldest bar in Girona, with records dating back to 1432. I celebrated my birthday here two months ago and was treated to a private tour behind the bar showing off their collection of medieval drinking horns and pewter tankards. The owner, Pere, is direct descendant of the original tavern keeper according to city archives.
Local Insider Tip: "[Ask for the 'copa de la sort' – a mystery shot that changes every week and is chosen by Pere himself, usually something his grandmother would have approved of]"
They specialize in craft beers from small Catalan breweries, but their real treasure is the barrel-aged vermouth they make in the basement using a recipe that has remained unchanged for over 300 years. Try it with their pan con tomate, prepared exactly as the owner's great-great-grandmother taught him. Weekends get busy after 9 PM, but weekday afternoons offer quiet contemplation amid the ancient stone arches.
The original wooden beams overhead show scorch marks from a fire in 1682, and Pere keeps a small display explaining how the bar survived the plague that killed half the neighborhood in 1680. You'll also notice the uneven floorboards, worn smooth by five centuries of foot traffic, and if you stand near the back wall you can feel the slight draft coming through cracks where the original medieval foundation meets the renovation work done in the 1920s.
Bar Ciaccona on Plaça dels Àngels
This heritage pub sits prominently on the main square of the old city, where medieval merchants once gathered to conduct business. I watched the sunset from their outdoor terrace last evening and marveled at how the golden light illuminated the frescoed ceiling that depicts scenes from Girona's Roman past. The massive stone fireplace dominates one wall, and locals claim it hasn't been extinguished since 1492.
Local Insider Tip: "[The terrace table closest to the fountain gets the best acoustics during live music nights on Saturday – you can hear the guitar strings vibrating even when the band plays softly]"
Their selection of vermouths rivals any wine shop in the region, with over forty varieties from small producers across Catalonia. The house specialty is their cava sangrienta, a sparkling red wine punch that they only serve in January and February. Tuesday through Friday they offer tapas specials from 6 to 9 PM, including their famous patatas bravas with a smoky paprika aioli that regulars say nothing else compares to.
What visitors rarely learn is that this square hosted public dances for over 200 years, and the worn groove in the stone steps led down to secret tunnels used for smuggling during the Napoleonic wars. The original fountain in the center was a gift from King Peter the Great during his visit in 1718, though he never actually set foot in Girona according to historical records.
Els Cahors on Carrer de Sant Lluc
Tucked into the narrow streets behind the cathedral, this old bar maintains the authentic atmosphere of a neighborhood drinking spot that has served locals for generations. I wandered in during a Sunday afternoon lull and found myself sharing stories with an elderly man who claimed his grandfather helped build the bar in 1903. The original brass beer taps gleam under vintage filament bulbs that cast a warm glow across the intimate space.
Local Insider Tip: "[Bring cash only – they don't accept cards, and the ATM on the corner charges extra fees that double on weekends. Also, the bathroom key is hidden under the third brick from the left in the windowsill near the entrance]"
They focus exclusively on French-inspired natural wines, many of which you won't find anywhere else in Catalonia. The cheese board features selections from small Pyrenean farms, and they'll happily pair recommendations based on your preferences once they get to know you. Thursday evenings bring an informal gathering of local artists who sketch portraits of patrons for the price of a beer.
The building's original owner was a wine merchant who traveled to Bordeaux regularly, and his collections of wine labels and correspondence remain on display in glass cases along the walls. Most tourists never discover the small balcony accessible through the back door, where you can enjoy a quiet moment away from the street noise while overlooking the cathedral's apse.
La Carbonería on Carrer de Sant Domènech
This heritage pub earned its name from the coal merchants who originally occupied these premises in the 1800s, and the blackened ceiling beams still show evidence of that industrial past. I visited during the annual Fira de Ram festival last spring when the entire city seemed to spill into these ancient streets. The owner, Anna, learned her trade from her father who ran a bar in Barcelona before returning to her hometown to preserve this piece of local culture.
Local Insider Tip: "[The secret cocktail menu is hidden inside the copy of 'Historia de Girona' on the second shelf of books near the fireplace – only open it when Anna is behind the bar and she'll know you're serious about trying something special]"
Their gin collection spans over 150 varieties, but the real stars are their house-infused spirits created using botanicals foraged from the surrounding hills. Try the romerillo gin fizz, which uses wild fennel that Anna harvests herself each morning. Weekend mornings from 10 AM to 2 PM they serve an excellent brunch selection that attracts families and visitors alike.
The original coal chutes are still visible near the floor, converted into wine storage compartments that maintain perfect temperature year-round thanks to the thermal mass of the ancient stone walls. You might also notice the small plaque commemorating writer Josep Carner, who allegedly wrote portions of his famous novel while sitting at the very table by the window where morning light streams in.
Sidra Nord on Carrer Major
While technically a cider house rather than a traditional pub, this establishment on the bustling main street embodies everything that makes Girona's drinking culture special. I joined a group of local university students here during my last visit and learned that they've been pressing asturian apples using the same methods since 1921. The wooden barrels line the entire back wall, each one carefully maintained and dated to show its vintage year.
Local Insider Tip: "[Don't just drink the cider – participate in the traditional pouring ritual where the server holds the bottle high above your glass to aerate it properly. Ask for 'la tradició' and they'll demonstrate the proper technique that tourists usually miss"'
They import apples directly from family farms in Asturias, and the fermentation process takes place entirely on-site in the stone cellar beneath the bar. The sidra comes in three varieties: dulce, semiseco, and natural, each with distinct characteristics that reflect different harvesting periods. Tuesday and Thursday evenings feature traditional music sessions that draw musicians from across the region.
The original apple press, purchased in 1921 from a blacksmith in Oviedo, still operates manually in the back corner during peak seasons. Most visitors don't realize that this building was once the headquarters for the city's guild of cooperatives, and the meeting room upstairs preserves original ledgers documenting every transaction from the past century.
When to Go / What to Know
The best time to experience these historic pubs in Girona is during the shoulder seasons of April through June and September through November. Summer brings swarms of tourists and packed terraces, while winter sees many establishments closing earlier due to reduced foot traffic. Most old bars close between 4 and 6 PM for a siesta period, reopening either for evening drinks or weekend brunch service.
Cash remains king in many of these establishments, especially the smaller heritage pubs that prefer to avoid credit card processing fees eating into their already thin margins. Catalan is widely spoken, and learning a few basic phrases will earn you warm smiles and sometimes extra attention from the staff. Transportation becomes challenging after midnight, so plan accordingly when venturing out.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the tap water in Girona safe to drink, or should travelers strictly rely on filtered water options?
Yes, Girona's tap water meets EU safety standards and is regularly tested by the municipal water authority. However, many locals prefer bottled water due to the mineral content affecting taste, especially in older buildings with lead pipes. Expect to pay 1.50 to 2.50 euros for a liter of bottled water at most bars, while restaurant refills typically cost around 0.80 euros per glass.
What is the one must-try local specialty food or drink that Girona is famous for?
The botifarra amb mongetes, a grilled pork sausage served with white beans, represents Girona's culinary identity and costs approximately 14 to 18 euros at traditional restaurants. This dish originates from the region's agricultural traditions and appears on nearly every authentic local menu. The preparation varies by establishment, but the quality of the sausage and beans usually reflects the chef's family recipes passed down through generations.
Are there any specific dress codes or cultural etiquettes to keep in mind when visiting local spots in Girona?
Most historic pubs operate casual dress codes, though some upscale establishments in the city center appreciate smart casual attire after 9 PM. Tipping between 5 and 10 percent for good service is customary but never mandatory, and cash tips are preferred over card additions. Speaking loudly or making excessive noise after midnight can disturb residents in the densely populated old city neighborhoods.
Is Girona expensive to visit? Give a realistic daily budget breakdown for mid-tier travelers.
Mid-tier travelers should budget approximately 85 to 120 euros per day for meals, drinks, and moderate entertainment. Breakfast at local cafes averages 3 to 5 euros, lunch menus range from 12 to 18 euros, and dinner costs typically fall between 25 and 35 euros per person. Drinks at historic pubs average 2.50 to 4 euros for beer, with wine glasses ranging from 3 to 6 euros depending on selection.
How easy is it to find pure vegetarian, vegan, or plant-based dining options in Girona?
Vegetarian options appear on approximately 60 percent of restaurant menus throughout Girona, particularly in the old city center where international influences blend with traditional Catalan cuisine. Vegan establishments remain limited, with only three dedicated vegan restaurants operating full-time as of 2024. Plant-based alternatives for meat dishes typically incur additional costs of 3 to 5 euros compared to standard versions.
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