Most Historic Pubs in Bilbao With Real Character and Good Stories
Words by
Carlos Rodriguez
Walk into any bar in the Casco Viejo and you will find men who have been sitting in the same chair, at the same counter, for thirty years. Bilbao has always been a city that drinks with purpose, and the historic pubs in Bilbao are not performance spaces for tourists. They are working establishments where generations of regulars have worked out their problems, celebrated their victories, and passed the hours in good company. I have been drinking in this city since I was old enough to legally order a txikito, and the places I am about to tell you about have all earned their reputations through decades of consistent service, reasonable prices, and an atmosphere that no amount of renovation money can buy.
Starting in the Old Quarter Where It All Began
The seven streets of the Casco Viejo, Las Siete Calles, form the original heart of Bilbao, and it is here that you will find the densest concentration of old bars Bilbao has to offer. Most visitors start at Plaza Nueva and work outward, which means they miss the quieter corners where the real neighborhood life happens.
On Artekale, one block north of the plaza, Café Bar Chicharrón has been pulling pintxos from its counter since the 1970s. The place is small, maybe eight meters deep, with a battered wooden bar that has been worn smooth by decades of elbows. This is not a spot for people who want to sit and linger. You order standing up, eat your pintxo, and move on, which is exactly how it should be. The standout here is the anchovy pintxo, a thin slice of baguette topped with a salted anchovy fillet and a fat green olive. The olives come from a specific supplier in the Basque Country, and you can taste the difference immediately. A single pintxo and a glass of txakoli will set you back around 3.50 euros. Come here after 11pm on a Friday or Saturday when the plaza crowd has thinned out and you want something that feels more genuine than the tourist-facing places closer to the church.
The one detail most tourists do not know about Café Bar Chicharrón is that it opens late and closes even later, sometimes not shutting the door until 4am on busy nights. The place has no visible signage from the street, so you have to know it is there or stumble upon it by accident.
The Original Bar Bilbao on Calle Correo
The city itself gave its name to Bar Bilbao, which opened on Calle Correo in the early years of the twentieth century. The original establishment occupied the ground floor of a building that had survived from the nineteenth century, and for a long time it was the first watering hole that visitors encountered when arriving by boat from the estuary. The current Bar Bilbao carries that weight, though it has moved locations a couple of times over the decades and now sits on a corner near the Mercado de la Rivera. The interior still carries some of the original character, with dark wood paneling and a long bar that encourages the kind of standing conversation that defined pre-war social life here.
Order a glass of the house wine and ask the person behind the bar to tell you what they recommend from the cold case. More often than not, they will point you toward the tortilla de bacalao, a salt cod omelet that is easier to find in Bilbao than anywhere else in Spain. The best time
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