Best Things to Do in Trondheim for First Timers (and Repeat Visitors)

Photo by  Simon Williams

14 min read · Trondheim, Norway · things to do ·

Best Things to Do in Trondheim for First Timers (and Repeat Visitors)

LE

Words by

Lars Eriksen

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Walk through the archway of Nidaros Cathedral at 8 a.m. when the first light hits the limestone, and you will understand why Trondheim has been Norway's spiritual capital for a thousand years. The best things to do in Trondheim are not always the loudest attractions on tourist brochures, but rather the quiet corners where history seeps through cobblestones and locals gather over coffee that has been roasted in the same building since 1927. I have spent fifteen years wandering these streets, arguing with taxi drivers about shortcuts, and discovering that the best view of the city is not from a fortress but from a plastic chair in someone's backyard during midsummer. This guide will take you to the places that actually matter, the ones that reveal what Trondheim feels like rather than just what it looks like.

Nidaros Cathedral and the Archbishop's Palace

The cathedral dominates the city center the way old trees dominate forests, not by competing for space but by being impossible to ignore. Construction began in 1070 when King Olaf II was canonized, and the building has burned down and been rebuilt so many times that its walls contain architectural DNA from eight centuries. The current Gothic Revival facade dates from the 1800s restoration, but step inside and the medieval ribs still spring from pillars that monks touched nearly a millennium ago. I recommend arriving when the doors open at 9 a.m. on weekdays because the interior gets filled with cruise tour groups by 10:30, and the acoustics deserve silence rather than the echo of four hundred camera shutters.

Behind the cathedral, the Archbishop's Palace ruins house the Crown Jewels of Norway, which are surprisingly modest compared to other European monarchies but fascinating nonetheless because they were never actually used for coronation. The crown was kept here for safekeeping during the union with Denmark, and the story of how Norway retrieved its symbols of sovereignty after 400 years in Copenhagen deserves to be known. Most visitors rush through the garden connecting both sites, but linger there for twenty minutes and watch the ravens that have nested in the spires since medieval times.

The Vibe? Spiritual weight meeting Viking history in one very cold stone room.
The Bill? Cathedral entrance 90 NOK, combined palace ticket 130 NOK.
The Standout? The south portal carvings, which show scenes from the sagas that most tourists photograph but few actually read.
The Catch? The crypt is closed from October through April for preservation work.

Bakklandet and the Old Town Bridge

Cross Gamle Bybro, the 17th-century wooden bridge that marks the entrance to Bakklandet, and you enter the neighborhood that locals fight to preserve and tourists cannot stop photographing. The colorful wooden houses lean against each other along the hillside like tired friends, their orange, yellow, and red facades reflected perfectly in the Nidelva river on calm mornings. I first moved to Trondheim in 2009 and spent my first winter living in a fifth-floor apartment here without an elevator, carrying groceries up 84 steps while questioning every life decision that led me there. By spring, I understood why people tolerate those stairs.

The best time to walk through Bakklandet is Saturday morning when the weekend farmers market sets up on the bridge itself, selling cloudberry jam from Lofoten, smoked reindeer from Dovre, and waffles that make every other waffle you have ever eaten seem like cardboard. Stop at Bakklandet Skyssbåt for the smoked salmon open-faced sandwich, but order it with a soft-boiled egg and a coffee from the espresso machine that has been hissing steam since the 1990s. The neighborhood also contains Olavsgården, a medieval farm that predates the city charter by two centuries, and the remains of a 12th-century church that was buried and forgotten until 1909.

The Vibe? Instagram made this neighborhood famous, but it earned the attention honestly.
The Bill? Market snacks run 40 to 80 NOK per item.
The Standout? The view from the pedestrian bridge at sunset, when the cathedral spire catches orange light and the river turns bronze.
The Catch? Every apartment with a river view costs twice what equivalent space costs one block inland.

Møllenberg: Where Trondheim Actually Lives

Tourists cluster around the cathedral and Bakklandet, but Møllenberg, just south of the city center, is where Trondheim families have raised children for three hundred years. The neighborhood takes its name from the mills that once lined the stream here, and the old mill race is still visible beneath a glass panel on Møllenbergata. I moved to a Møllenberg apartment in 2014 and discovered that my neighbors included a retired fishing boat captain, a woman who had worked at the university for forty years, and a family whose children I would watch grow up over the decade that followed. The streets here are quieter than the tourist zones, the cafes serve people reading newspapers rather than checking in, and the playground on Mollehagen has been equipment unchanged since the 1970s.

The coffee shop Kaffebrenneriet on Møllenbergveien has no website and no Instagram presence, and that is entirely intentional. The owner roasts beans in a converted warehouse across town and serves them in a room with six tables where the conversation never rises above a murmur. Order the flat white and ask for the daily pastry, which changes based on whatever the owner felt like baking that morning. For dinner, To Rum og Kjøkken serves Norwegian comfort food in a dining room that smells like it has been cooking the same recipes since the 1950s, because it largely has.

The Vibe? The city that tourists do not see, eating food that tourists do not know exists.
The Bill? Coffee 42 NOK, dinner courses 180 to 260 NOK.
The Standout? The walk up Møllenberg alle at dusk, when lamplight catches the wooden siding and you understand why people stay in this city.
The Catch? Parking here is a war zone on weekends when people visit friends who live in the area.

The Fjord and Canal District

Trondheim sits where the Trondheimsfjord meets the Nidelva river, and for centuries that geography determined everything about the city, from where the market stalls set up to where ships anchored for winter. The canal that runs between the harbor and the inner bay was dug in the 1800s to control water flow, and today the walk along Kanalmenningen is one of the most underrated experiences in the city. I take visiting friends here on their first evening because the light after 8 p.m. in summer turns the water into liquid copper, and the 18th-century warehouses that line the route are lit in ways that make every photograph look like a painting.

The old harbor warehouse now contains several restaurants, but skip the tourist-oriented options on the ground floor and climb to the second floor of Bryggen Trondheim, where the fish market restaurant has been selling the daily catch since 1978. Order the fish soup with a glass of aquavit, and eat it while watching the Hurtigruten coastal ferry dock at the terminal across the water. Those ships have been stopping here since 1893, carrying passengers who understand that the journey matters as much as the destination. The boat trips from the harbor offer fjord excursions, but I recommend the one that goes up the Nidelva toward the waterfalls at 9 a.m. on a Tuesday when the boat is half-empty.

The Vibe? Waterfront history without the Venice crowds, even in peak summer.
The Bill? Fjord boat trip 450 NOK, fish soup 195 NOK.
The Standout? The sight of a Hurtigruten ship sailing past the cathedral at midnight during summer solstice.
The Catch? The waterfront restaurants double their prices in summer and the quality drops because they know tourists will come anyway.

Mathallen Trondheim: The Food Hall That Earns Its Hype

The food hall in the Fjordgata neighborhood opened in 2016 in a converted industrial building that once stored grain for the city, and it immediately changed how Trondheim thinks about eating. The space contains a cheese shop sourced from small farms across Norway, a butcher who sells reindeer and elk alongside conventional cuts, a Thai restaurant run by a woman who came to Trondheim as a refugee in 2008 and now employs twelve people, and a bakery that makes bread from grain ground in Trøndelag. I have bought birthday cakes here, hosted work lunches in the communal area, and had arguments with visiting friends who insisted they did not like fish and then proceeded to eat three plates of cured salmon.

Saturday morning at Mathallen is the social event of the week for food enthusiasts, and arriving at 10 a.m. instead of 11 a.m. makes the difference between finding a seat and standing in line. The fishmonger, Fiskekompaniet, sells shrimp caught in the fjord that you can eat immediately with mayonnaise and a piece of brunost on crispbread, and I promise that this combination will make you question every seafood experience you have had elsewhere. The craft beer selection changes monthly, and the staff will guide you through the current offerings with the enthusiasm of people who actually drink what they sell.

The Vibe? Industrial space meets culinary ambition in a way that actually works.
The Bill? Lunch plates 120 to 180 NOK, quality groceries run 30 to 60 percent higher than supermarkets.
The Standout? The cheese counter, where you can taste seven varieties of gjetost before deciding which one to buy.
The Catch? Weekend afternoons get unbearably crowded, and the noise level makes conversation nearly impossible.

NTNU and Gløshaugen Campus

The Norwegian University of Science and Technology is the largest university in Norway, and its main campus at Gløshaugen sits on a hill north of the city center that has been an educational site since the 1840s. The buildings represent a century of architectural ambition, from the original 1840s lecture halls to the modern glass structures that house the engineering departments, and walking through the campus feels like time-traveling through Norway's relationship with knowledge and industry. I audited lectures here for two years after my regular work ended, sitting in on history courses and chemistry labs simply because the university allowed open access to anyone curious enough to attend.

The Geological Museum on campus houses a collection of minerals and fossils that most tourists never see, including a meteorite fragment found in Trøndelag county in 1902 that still glows faintly green under ultraviolet light. The university cafeteria, Kantine Gløshaugen, serves hot meals for under 100 NOK, and sitting there at lunch time watching students argue about assignments gives you more insight into Norwegian culture than any museum. The view from the hilltop reaches across the city to the fjord, and on clear winter days you can see the mountains that ring Trondheim standing like guardians around the basin.

The Vibe? Knowledge and ambition built in stone, with coffee machines that actually work.
The Bill? Museum entrance 80 NOK, cafeteria lunch 85 NOK.
The Standout? The architecture tour that runs every Saturday at 11 a.m., included with museum admission.
The Catch? The campus is nearly empty on Sundays and most of the week after 6 p.m.

Ringve Museum: Musical History on the Outskirts

The Ringve Museum sits eight kilometers outside the city center in a manor house that was saved from demolition in the 1970s by a coalition of musicians and preservationists who recognized that Norway needed a dedicated music museum. The collection includes instruments from six continents, a restoration workshop where craftspeople repair antique pieces, and a concert series that runs from September through May featuring everything from baroque chamber music to contemporary jazz. I attended a performance here on a February night when snow fell on the unheated terrace and the audience wrapped themselves in blankets while the musicians played Shostakovich, and it remains one of the most magical concert experiences of my life.

The grounds include a botanical garden specifically focused on plants used in traditional instrument-making, including the specific spruce trees that resonance violin makers prefer. The knowledgeable guides include musicians themselves, and requesting a demonstration of the collection's rare instruments will usually result in a private mini-concert that no scheduled tour can match. The museum restaurant serves food inspired by historical recipes, and the fish cake dish has been on the menu since opening day because the founder's wife insisted it represented something essential about Norwegian home cooking. Access requires a bus or car, making this venue one that most cruise passengers skip entirely, which is their significant loss.

The Vibe? Musical scholarship in a manor house setting, with gardens that deserve their own visit.
The Bill? Adult entrance 160 NOK, concert tickets 200 to 350 NOK.
The Standout? The guided instrument demonstration that happens daily at 2 p.m., featuring pieces you will not see anywhere else in Scandinavia.
The Catch? Getting here without a car requires bus route 46 from the city center, which runs every 30 minutes but takes 40 minutes total.

Trøndart and the Souvenir Question

Every visitor needs to bring something home, and Trøndart on Nordre Gate solves the problem of finding Norwegian gifts that are actually worth buying. The cooperative sells work from artists across the Trøndelag region, including ceramicists, woodworkers, textile artists, and printmakers who have been vetted for quality. The prices are not cheap, but nothing here was made in a factory, and the staff can tell you the name and hometown of whoever crafted each piece. I have bought birthday presents here for friends who have everything, and in every case the recipient has said it was the best Norwegian gift they received.

The second floor contains a small gallery space that rotates exhibitions every six weeks, and some of Norway's most interesting contemporary artists have shown work there before moving on to Oslo or international venues. The staff also maintains a list of studio visits for artists who welcome visitors, and calling ahead to arrange a trip to a ceramicist's workshop outside the city will reward you with an experience that no tourist brochure could describe. The adjacent cafe serves the best cinnamon knots in the city center, and sitting there with a coffee while watching locals browse the art gives you an afternoon in Trondheim that costs very little but feels like everything.

The Vibe? Local art without the pretension, bought with the confidence that it was actually made by hand.
The Bill? Gift items start at 150 NOK and run to several thousand.
The Standout? The annual Christmas market in December, which is chaos but offers first chance at new artist work.
The Catch? The gallery closes at 4 p.m. on weekdays and is not open Sundays.

When to Go and What to Know

The best window for experiencing Trondheim without crowds runs from late April through mid-June, when the city emerges from winter and summer visitors have not yet arrived in force. The midnight sun in June creates a magical quality to evening walks, and the long shadows at 11 p.m. make photography extraordinary. September offers the added benefit of truffle season in the surrounding forests, and local foragers sell directly at Mathallen on Saturday mornings. Winter visits have their own appeal, with the cathedral lit against snow, the Christmas market in late November, and the fact that every restaurant and museum is completely empty on weekday afternoons.

Trondheim operates on Norwegian Kroner, and credit cards are accepted everywhere including the smallest coffee stands. The city is walkable in a way that surprises first-time visitors who expect Norway to require constant transportation, and you can cross from the harbor to the university on foot in 25 minutes. Bus tickets cost 39 NOK for a single ride or 90 NOK for a day pass, and the app AtB makes buying tickets painless. One thing most tourists

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