What to Do in Fes in a Weekend: A Complete 48-Hour Guide
Words by
Fatima El Amrani
What to Do in Fes in a Weekend: A Complete 48-Hour Guide
If you have just 48 hours in the imperial city, figuring out what to do in Fes in a weekend becomes the single most important decision you will face before you land. This is not Marrakech's wide boulevards or Casablanca's waterfront. Fes is older, louder, and unapologetically itself, a city where the 12th-century medina still functions as a living, breathing organism rather than a museum exhibit. I have spent years walking these streets, eating in these kitchens, and getting lost in these alleys, and what follows is the guide I hand to every friend who asks me how to spend a weekend trip Fes without wasting a single hour.
Day One Morning: Waking Up Inside the Medina
1. Fes el-Bali (Old Medina) – The Heart of Everything
You cannot understand Fes without first surrendering to Fes el-Bali, the UNESCO-listed old medina that has been continuously inhabited since the 9th century. This is not a place you "visit" in the conventional sense. You enter through Bab Bou Jeloud, the iconic blue gate, and immediately the world outside ceases to exist. The alleys narrow, the donkeys squeeze past you carrying slabs of leather, and the smell of cedar wood, fresh bread, and tanning chemicals hits you all at once.
Start early, ideally by 8:00 AM, before the tour groups arrive and the souk corridors become impassable. Walk straight from Bab Bou Jeloud down Talaa Kebira, the main descending artery of the medina. This street is the spine of the old city, and every side alley branching off it leads to a different world, the coppersmiths to the east, the textile merchants to the south, the spice sellers tucked into corners you would never find without a local guide.
The Vibe? Controlled chaos that somehow functions with perfect internal logic once you stop trying to impose order on it.
The Bill? Free to wander. Budget 50 to 100 dirhams for small purchases if a vendor convinces you that you need a hand-carved box you never knew you wanted.
The Standout? Standing at the intersection where Talaa Kebira meets the Chouara Tannery access alley and watching the morning light hit the dye pits from a rooftop above.
The Catch? The tanning district smells exactly as bad as everyone warns you. Mint leaves help, but only slightly. Bring a scarf.
The Detail Most Tourists Miss: Halfway down Talaa Kebira on the left side, there is a small unmarked doorway that leads to Funduq al-Najjarin, a 17th-century caravanserai that now houses a museum of wooden arts. Most people walk right past it because the entrance looks like a residential door. Inside, there is a courtyard with carved cedar balconies that rival anything in the Alhambra, and you will likely have it entirely to yourself on a weekday morning.
Local Tip: Carry small bills, 10s and 20s. Vendors in the medina rarely have change for anything larger, and the moment you pull out a 200-dirham note, the price of whatever you are buying mysteriously doubles.
2. Chouara Tannery – Fes at Its Most Visceral
No Fes 2 day itinerary is complete without standing on a rooftop overlooking the Chouara Tannery, the oldest and largest of the three tanneries operating in the medina. The scene has not changed in centuries. Workers stand waist-deep in stone vats filled with pigeon droppings (used to soften the hide), lime, and natural dyes, turning cow, goat, and camel skins by hand under the open sky. The honeycomb pattern of the vats, viewed from above, is one of the most photographed scenes in all of North Africa.
The best viewing spots are from the leather shops that surround the tannery. You will be invited up, offered mint tea, and then gently encouraged to buy something. This is the transaction, and it is an honest one. The tea is free, the view is extraordinary, and the leather goods are genuinely well made. I usually visit between 9:00 and 10:30 AM when the light is soft and the workers are most active. By midday, the heat makes the smell almost unbearable, and many of the workers take a break.
The Vibe? Industrial, ancient, and completely unlike anything you have seen before.
The Bill? Tea is free. A good leather bag runs 200 to 400 dirhams if you negotiate patiently.
The Standout? Watching a worker climb out of a red dye vat with his arms stained crimson up to the elbows, completely unfazed.
The Catch? The shop owners can be persistent. A polite but firm "no, just looking" works, but you may need to repeat it several times.
The Detail Most Tourists Miss: The pigeon droppings used in the tanning process are collected from dovecotes on rooftops throughout the medina. If you look up while walking the alleys near the tannery, you will see these tall, narrow structures everywhere. They are functional, not decorative, and they are one of the reasons the medina smells the way it does.
Day One Afternoon: Palaces, Gardens, and the Art of Slowing Down
3. Jnan Sbil Gardens – The Medina's Green Lung
After the sensory overload of the tanneries, Jnan Sbil Gardens is where you go to breathe. Located just outside the medina walls between Fes el-Bali and the newer Fes el-Jdid district, this public park was restored in 2011 after decades of neglect. Palm trees line gravel paths, bamboo groves create shaded tunnels, and a large central lake reflects the surrounding architecture in a way that feels almost deliberately composed.
I come here most afternoons around 3:00 PM, when the light turns golden and local families start arriving with children. There is no entrance fee, and the gardens are large enough that even on a busy Saturday you can find a quiet bench away from the main paths. The contrast between the dense, claustrophobic medina and this open green space is jarring in the best possible way.
The Vibe? Peaceful, unhurried, and surprisingly well maintained for a public space in Morocco.
The Bill? Free.
The Standout? Sitting near the lake at sunset and watching the palm shadows stretch across the water.
The Catch? The gardens close at dusk, and the surrounding neighborhood is not particularly interesting to walk through after dark. Plan to leave before 6:30 PM in winter, earlier in summer.
The Detail Most Tourists Miss: The gardens sit on the site of what was once a royal promenade connecting the old medina to the Royal Palace grounds. The layout of the paths still follows the original 18th-century design, though the plantings have been updated. If you look carefully at the western wall, you can see remnants of the original zellige tilework embedded in the stonework.
Local Tip: Bring a book or a journal. This is one of the few places in Fes where sitting still for an hour feels natural rather than like you are missing something.
4. Dar Batha Museum – A Palace Turned Into a Living Archive
A two-minute walk from Jnan Sbil Gardens, Dar Batha is a 19th-century palace built by the Hassan I era that now serves as a museum of Moroccan arts and crafts. The building itself is the main attraction, a sprawling structure with painted wooden ceilings, marble fountains, and a central courtyard garden planted with towering cypress trees. The collection inside includes astrolabes, carved wooden minbars, embroidered silk, and an extraordinary display of blue Fassi ceramics that shows why Fes has been the center of Moroccan pottery production for over a thousand years.
I recommend spending at least 90 minutes here, ideally in the late afternoon when the light coming through the latticed windows creates patterns on the tile floors. The museum is rarely crowded, even on weekends, and the staff are knowledgeable if you ask questions in French or Arabic. The entrance fee is 10 dirhams, which is almost absurdly low for what you get.
The Vibe? Quiet, scholarly, and deeply beautiful in a way that rewards slow looking.
The Bill? 10 dirhams entrance. No additional charges.
The Standout? The ceramic room, where you can see the evolution of Fassi pottery from simple geometric patterns to the intricate floral designs that define the city's aesthetic identity.
The Catch? The museum closes at 5:00 PM, and they start ushering people out 20 minutes before closing. Do not arrive after 4:00 PM and expect to see everything.
The Detail Most Tourists Miss: The courtyard fountain is original to the palace and still functions. If you visit on a quiet day, you can hear the water echoing off the zellige tiles in a way that makes the entire space feel alive. Most visitors walk past it without stopping to listen.
Day One Evening: Food, Rooftops, and the Sound of the Call to Prayer
5. Clocktower Area and the Rooftop Restaurants of the Medina
As the sun sets over Fes, the medina transforms. The shops begin to close, the light turns amber, and the call to prayer echoes from over 300 mosques simultaneously, creating a layered sound that you feel in your chest more than hear with your ears. This is the moment to find a rooftop restaurant and watch the city shift from day mode to night mode.
The area around the Clocktower (Borj Nord side) and the streets leading up from Bab Bou Jeloud have several rooftop options. I particularly like the restaurants along Derb el-Miter, a narrow street that runs parallel to Talaa Kebira. From these terraces, you can see the minarets of the Kairaouine Mosque, the green-tiled roofs of the medina, and the hills beyond the city walls all at once. Order a tagine, the pastilla if they have it (a sweet-savory pigeon pie that Fes is famous for), and a pot of mint tea. Dinner for one with a drink will run you 80 to 150 dirhams depending on how ambitious you get.
The Vibe? Romantic, panoramic, and deeply Fassi in a way that no other city in Morocco replicates.
The Bill? 80 to 150 dirhams for a full dinner with mint tea.
The Standout? The moment the call to prayer starts and every conversation on the rooftop pauses for a full minute.
The Catch? The best rooftop tables fill up fast on Friday and Saturday evenings. Arrive by 7:00 PM or be prepared to wait.
The Detail Most Tourists Miss: The green tiles you see on almost every rooftop in the medina are not decorative. They are a traditional Fassi building technique, glazed clay tiles laid over wooden beams, that has been used for centuries because the glaze reflects sunlight and keeps interiors cooler. Fes is sometimes called "the city of green roofs" because of this, and once you notice it, you cannot stop seeing it.
Local Tip: Ask your server which tagine is freshest that day rather than ordering from a menu. In the medina, the best kitchens cook what arrived at the souk that morning, and the menu is often a formality.
Day Two Morning: The Mellah, the Royal Palace, and the Jewish Quarter
6. Fes el-Jdid and the Mellah District
Your second day should start in Fes el-Jdid, the "new" city that was built in the 13th century by the Marinid dynasty. "New" is relative here, this district is over 700 years old. The Mellah, the historic Jewish quarter, occupies the southeastern section of Fes el-Jdid and is one of the most architecturally distinct neighborhoods in Morocco. The buildings here have open balconies with wooden latticework, a style that is absent from the Muslim quarters of the medina where windows are traditionally small and inward-facing.
Walk down the main street of the Mellah, Rue Bou Ksissat, and look for the Danan Synagogue, a 17th-century synagogue that was restored in the 1990s and is one of the few in Morocco that still holds occasional services. The interior is small but exquisite, with hand-painted ceilings and a Torah ark made from carved cedar. The entrance fee is 10 dirhams, and the caretaker will give you a brief tour if he is available.
The Vibe? Melancholic, beautiful, and layered with history that most visitors to Fes never learn about.
The Bill? 10 dirhams for the synagogue. Free to walk the streets.
The Standout? The contrast between the ornate Jewish balconies and the plain Muslim-style walls just a few streets away, a physical reminder of how the city's communities lived side by side for centuries.
The Catch? Some streets in the Mellah are in disrepair, and a few buildings are structurally unsound. Stick to the main roads and do not enter any building that looks abandoned.
The Detail Most Tourists Miss: The Jewish cemetery adjacent to the Mellah contains white stone tombs dating back to the 18th century, many with Hebrew inscriptions that have been worn smooth by centuries of wind. It is one of the oldest Jewish burial grounds in Morocco, and it is maintained by a small Muslim caretaker who has looked after it for over 30 years. If you ask politely, he will let you in and tell you stories about the families buried there.
7. Bab Mansour and the Royal Palace Exterior
From the Mellah, walk west toward Bab Mansour, the grand ceremonial gate that serves as the main entrance to the Royal Palace grounds (Dar el-Makhzen). The gate is widely considered the most beautiful in all of Morocco, a massive structure flanked by marble columns recycled from Roman ruins at Volubilis, with green and white zellige tilework covering every surface. The palace itself is not open to the public, but the gate and the surrounding square are worth a dedicated visit.
I usually arrive here around 10:00 AM, when the light hits the gate directly and the tilework glows. The square in front of Bab Mansouir is a popular gathering spot, and you will see families, street vendors, and the occasional musician. Spend 20 to 30 minutes here, then walk around the palace walls to get a sense of the scale of the complex, which covers over 80 hectares and is the largest royal palace in Morocco.
The Vibe? Majestic, imposing, and photogenic from every angle.
The Bill? Free.
The Standout? The green and white tilework, which is original 17th-century Marinid craftsmanship and has been restored multiple times without losing its depth of color.
The Catch? Security is tight around the palace. Do not attempt to enter any restricted area, and be respectful when photographing near the guards.
The Detail Most Tourists Miss: The marble columns flanking the gate were taken from the Roman ruins at Volublis, about an hour's drive from Fes. If you look closely at the capitals, you can see Corinthian-style carvings that are nearly 2,000 years old. The Marinids repurposed Roman materials as a deliberate statement of power, connecting their dynasty to the classical empires that preceded them.
Local Tip: After visiting Bab Mansour, walk down the street directly behind the gate (Ras Jebel) for about 10 minutes. You will reach a viewpoint that looks out over the entire medina, and it is one of the best panoramic spots in the city that almost no tourists know about.
Day Two Afternoon: Pottery, Craft, and the Art of the Souk
8. Seffarine Square and the Coppersmiths' Quarter
No short break Fes is complete without visiting Seffarine Square, the coppersmiths' plaza located deep in the medina near the Kairaouine Mosque. This is one of the oldest craft squares in the city, and the sound of hammers hitting metal has echoed off these walls since the Marinid period. The square is small, maybe 30 meters across, and it is ringed with workshops where artisans shape, engrave, and polish copper and brass by hand.
I come here in the early afternoon, around 1:00 or 2:00 PM, when the workshops are fully active and the artisans are willing to pause and explain their process. You can watch a single craftsman spend an entire day engraving a single brass tray with geometric patterns that follow mathematical principles developed by Islamic scholars in the 10th century. A small engraved brass bowl costs around 60 to 100 dirhams. A large tray with detailed work can run 300 to 600 dirhams, and it is worth every penny.
The Vibe? Loud, rhythmic, and mesmerizing once you tune into the pattern of the hammering.
The Bill? 60 to 600 dirhams depending on what you buy. Free to watch.
The Standout? Finding a workshop where the artisan lets you try the engraving tool yourself. This happens more often than you might expect if you show genuine interest and patience.
The Catch? The hammering noise is genuinely deafening if you stand in the center of the square for more than a few minutes. Step to the edge if your ears need a break.
The Detail Most Tourists Miss: The square is named after the Arabic word for coppersmiths (saffarin), but it was originally a center for all metalwork, including gold and silver. The goldsmiths moved to a different section of the medina in the 19th century, but you can still find a few elderly craftsmen in Seffarine who remember their fathers working with precious metals. Ask around, and someone will point them out.
Local Tip: If you want to buy copper or brass, do it here rather than in the tourist shops near Bab Bou Jeloud. The prices are lower, the quality is higher, and you are buying directly from the person who made the object.
When to Go / What to Know
Fes is a city that rewards the prepared traveler and punishes the careless one. Here is what I tell everyone before they book their weekend trip Fes.
Best months: March through May and September through November. Summer temperatures regularly exceed 38°C, and the medina becomes almost unbearable between noon and 4:00 PM. Winter is manageable but rainy, and some rooftop restaurants close or reduce their hours.
Getting there: Fes-Saïss Airport (FEZ) is about 15 kilometers from the city center. A taxi to the medina costs a fixed rate of 150 dirhams. The train from Casablanca takes about 4 hours and costs 140 to 200 dirhams depending on the class.
Getting inside the medina: There are no cars in Fes el-Bali. Everything moves by foot, donkey, or motorbike. Wear shoes you can walk in for hours on uneven cobblestones. Bring a physical map or download an offline map, because GPS signals are unreliable inside the narrow alleys.
Money: ATMs are available outside the medina walls but scarce inside. Carry cash. The local currency is the Moroccan dirham, and as of this writing, 1 USD is roughly 10 dirhams.
Language: Moroccan Darija is the primary spoken language. French is widely understood, especially among older residents and shopkeepers. English is common in hotels and tourist-oriented restaurants but rare in the deeper medina. Learning a few words of Arabic or French will transform your experience.
Dress: Fes is more conservative than Marrakech or Casablanca. Covering shoulders and knees is not legally required but is socially expected, especially for women. You will feel more comfortable and receive warmer interactions if you dress modestly.
Safety: Fes is generally very safe for tourists. The main risks are pickpockets in crowded souk areas and aggressive unofficial guides who will attach themselves to you near Bab Bou Jeloud. A firm "no thank you" in French ("non, merci") usually works. If someone insists on guiding you, agree on a price before you start walking, 50 to 100 dirhams for a two-hour tour is fair.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the safest and most reliable way to get around Fes as a solo traveler?
Walking is the primary mode of transport inside Fes el-Bali, as the medina's alleys are too narrow for vehicles. For trips between the medina and newer districts, petit taxis (small red vehicles) are safe, metered, and cost between 10 and 25 dirhams for most intra-city rides. Always insist the meter is running, or agree on a price before getting in. For airport transfers, the fixed rate is 150 dirhams. Ride-hailing apps like Careem and inDriver also operate in Fes and provide an additional layer of accountability. Solo travelers, including women, report feeling safe walking in well-trafficked medina areas during daylight hours, though it is advisable to avoid poorly lit side streets after 10:00 PM.
How many days are needed to see the major tourist attractions in Fes without feeling rushed?
Two full days are sufficient to cover the major sites, including the Chouara Tannery, Dar Batha Museum, the Mellah district, Bab Mansour, and the main souk corridors. Three days allow for a more relaxed pace, time to visit the Merenid Tombs for a panoramic view, and the possibility of a day trip to Volublis (30 km south) or Meknes (60 km west). A single day is possible but will feel extremely rushed, and you will likely miss the medina's quieter, more rewarding corners.
Is it possible to walk between the main sightseeing spots in Fes, or is local transport necessary?
Most major attractions are within walking distance of each other. Bab Bou Jeloud to the Chouara Tannery is about a 10-minute walk. Dar Batha and Jnan Sbil Gardens are a 15-minute walk from Bab Bou Jeloud. The Mellah district is roughly 20 minutes on foot from the medina gate. The only attraction that may require transport is the Merenid Tombs, which sit on a hill overlooking the medina and involve a steep 15 to 20 minute uphill walk that many travelers prefer to do by taxi for 15 to 20 dirhams.
Do the most popular attractions in Fes require advance ticket booking, especially during peak season?
The vast majority of Fes attractions do not require advance booking. Dar Batha Museum, the Danan Synagogue, and the Funduq al-Najjarin museum all sell tickets on-site for 10 dirhams each. The Chouara Tannery is accessed through surrounding leather shops, and there is no formal ticket, though you are expected to accept mint tea and browse merchandise. The Royal Palace exterior and Bab Mansour are free and open at all times. During peak season (March to May, September to November), the only potential wait is for rooftop tannery views, where popular leather shops may have a short queue for terrace seating. Arriving before 10:00 AM eliminates this issue entirely.
What are the best free or low-cost tourist places in Fes that are genuinely worth the visit?
Jnan Sbil Gardens are free and offer a peaceful green space unmatched inside the medina. The exterior of Bab Mansour and the Royal Palace walls are free to visit and photograph. Walking Talaa Kebira from Bab Bou Jeloud to the Kairaouine area costs nothing and provides an authentic medina experience. The Merenid Tombs, accessed by a short uphill walk, offer the best panoramic view of the entire medina for zero cost. Seffarine Square, where coppersmiths work by hand, is free to visit and watch. The Jewish cemetery in the Mellah is free to enter with the caretaker's permission. Funduq al-Najjarin charges only 10 dirhams and houses one of the most beautiful courtyards in the city.
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