Best Places to Buy Souvenirs in Fes (Skip the Tourist Junk)

I have lived in Fes for over a decade, and if there is one thing I have learned, it is that the best souvenir shopping in Fes has almost nothing to do with the polished storefronts that line the main tourist corridors. The real treasures, the ones that carry the weight of centuries of craftsmanship and the fingerprints of actual artisans, are found in workshops where the sawdust still hangs in the air and the hammers never stop ringing. This guide is for the traveler who wants to bring home something genuine, something that tells a story about this city beyond the generic keychains and mass-produced ceramics that flood the medina's most trafficked alleys.

Fes has been a center of artisanal production since the Marinid dynasty established it as their capital in the 13th century. The medina, Fes el-Bali, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the largest car-free urban zones in the world. Within its roughly 9,400 narrow streets and dead-end alleys, entire neighborhoods are still organized by trade. There is the coppersmiths' quarter, the leather dyers' quarter, the woodcarvers' quarter, and the weavers' quarter. Each one has been operating in some form for hundreds of years. When you buy directly from these workshops, you are not just purchasing an object. You are participating in a living economic system that predates the modern concept of retail by about 800 years.

What follows are the specific places I send friends and family when they visit. Every single one of these locations is real, and I have personally bought items from each of them. I have also included the honest drawbacks, because no place in the medina is without its complications.

The Chouara Tannery and Its Direct Workshop Outlets

You cannot talk about what to buy in Fes without starting at the Chouara Tannery, the largest and oldest of the three tanneries in Fes el-Bali. It sits in the Ain Azliten neighborhood, just off the river that once powered the city's mills. The tannery itself dates to the 11th century, and the process used today is essentially unchanged from that era. Animal hides are soaked in stone vats filled with a mixture of cow urine, pigeon droppings, quicklime, water, and natural dyes. Workers stand waist-deep in these vats, turning and stretching the hides by hand under the open sky.

The tourist experience at Chouara is well known. You climb up to a surrounding terrace, someone hands you a sprig of mint to hold under your nose, and you take photos. But here is what most visitors miss. The leather goods shops that line the terraces above the tannery are not all equal. The ones on the upper floors, the ones you have to climb an extra flight of stairs to reach, tend to have better prices and more authentic stock. The ground-floor shops pay higher rents and pass that cost on to you. I always walk past the first five or six shops and head to the smaller ones tucked into the corners.

What to Buy: Look for a leather pouf (a round, hand-stitched ottoman cover) in natural tones. The ones made from full-grain cowhide with hand-stitched seams will last decades. Avoid anything with a plastic-feeling coating, which indicates lower-quality leather treated with synthetic finishes.

Best Time: Go early, ideally before 10 a.m. The light is better for seeing the tannery process, the workers are most active in the morning, and the shops are less crowded. By noon, the heat and the smell become significantly more intense.

The Vibe: Overwhelming at first. The smell hits you before you see anything, and the touts can be persistent. But once you settle into a terrace and watch the process, it becomes one of the most visually stunning experiences in all of Morocco. The shop owners are generally knowledgeable and will explain the difference between vegetable-tanned and chrome-tanned leather if you ask.

Insider Detail: Many of the terrace shops source their leather from Chouara but do their stitching and finishing in small ateliers elsewhere in the medina. Ask specifically if the item was finished on-site or in a workshop. The ones finished on-site tend to have more character and slight irregularities that prove they are handmade.

The Drawback: The hard sell is real. You will be offered mint tea, shown dozens of items you did not ask for, and quoted prices that are often three to four times the actual value. Do not feel pressured to buy on your first visit. Walk the entire terrace, note the prices, and come back if something catches your eye.

The Nejjarine Woodworkers' Souk

Tucked into the heart of Fes el-Bali, just a few minutes' walk from the Bou Inania Madrasa, the Nejjarine neighborhood has been the center of Fes's woodworking tradition for centuries. The souk here, centered around the beautifully restored Fondouk Nejjarine (now a museum of wooden arts and crafts), is where you will find artisans working with cedar, thuya, and olive wood. Thuya wood is particular to Morocco, sourced from trees that grow in the Essaouira region, and it is prized for its swirling grain patterns and natural fragrance.

What makes Nejjarine different from the generic souvenir shops near Bab Bou Jeloud is that many of the storefronts here are attached to actual workshops. You can watch a craftsman turn a block of thuya wood on a lathe, carving intricate geometric patterns into a jewelry box or a chess set. The geometric motifs used in Fassi woodwork are the same ones you see in the zellige tilework and carved plaster of the city's mosques and madrasas. Buying a piece here means you are taking home a fragment of the same artistic vocabulary that defines Fes's architectural identity.

What to Buy: Thuya wood boxes with inlaid mother-of-pearl or bone are the signature item. A small box with clean joinery and a tight-fitting lid will cost between 50 and 150 dirhams depending on size. Larger items like backgammon boards or carved picture frames are also excellent and ship well if packed properly.

Best Time: Mid-morning on a weekday, around 10 to 11 a.m. The artisans are at their benches, the light coming through the fondouk's courtyard is beautiful, and the tourist groups have not yet arrived in full force. Fridays are quieter overall because many workshops close for midday prayer and some do not reopen.

The Vibe: Calm and focused compared to the chaos of the main tanneries. The fondouk itself is a restored caravanserai with a stunning three-story courtyard, and the shops around it have a more curated feel. Prices are generally fairer here than at the tannery terraces, though some negotiation is still expected.

Insider Detail: Look for the workshops on the upper floors of the buildings surrounding the fondouk. These are often family operations that have been in the same space for generations. The grandfather might be carving in the back while the grandson handles sales in the front. If you show genuine interest in the craft, they will often let you watch the carving process up close.

The Drawback: The fondouk museum itself, while beautiful, can get crowded with tour groups in the early afternoon. The shops on the ground floor near the museum entrance tend to inflate prices because they know tourists will wander in without comparison shopping.

The Coppersmiths' Quarter (Place Seffarine)

Place Seffarine is a small square in the medina, located between the Bou Inania Madrasa and the Kairaouine Mosque, and it has been the center of Fes's metalworking trade since at least the 14th century. The square is dominated by the 13th-century Saffarin Madrasa on one side and the Seffarine Fondouk (a former inn for metalworkers) on the other. The sound of hammers on copper and brass fills the air from morning until evening.

This is the place to find authentic brass and copper items, hand-hammered and hand-engraved. The artisans here produce everything from large serving trays and teapots to small decorative items like candle holders and incense burners. The technique they use, called repousse, involves hammering designs into the metal from the reverse side to create raised patterns on the front. It is painstaking work, and a single large tray can take several days to complete.

What to Buy: A hand-hammered brass teapot with geometric engraving is the quintessential Fassi item. The ones made here use thicker gauge metal than the mass-produced versions sold in tourist shops, and the engravings are deeper and more precise. Expect to pay between 200 and 600 dirhams for a good-quality teapot, depending on size and detail.

Best Time: Late morning, around 11 a.m., when the artisans are in full swing but the midday heat has not yet driven them inside. The square is shaded by overhanging buildings, which makes it more comfortable than open-air markets during the hotter months.

The Vibe: Loud, rhythmic, and deeply atmospheric. The constant hammering creates a kind of percussion that becomes the soundtrack of the square. The artisans are generally welcoming and will explain their process if you pause to watch. This is one of the few places in the medina where you can see a product go from raw sheet metal to finished item in a single visit.

Insider Detail: Some of the workshops here also produce items on commission. If you want a specific size or design, you can place an order and return in two to three days to collect it. This is how locals shop here, and the prices for commissioned work are often lower than for ready-made items because there is no middleman markup.

The Drawback: The square is small and can feel claustrophobic when tour groups arrive. Also, some of the smaller items sold on the periphery of the square (like tiny brass boxes and keychains) are actually mass-produced imports. Stick to the items you can see being made, or ask the artisan directly if the piece was made in their workshop.

The Weavers' Cooperative on Talaa Kebira

Talaa Kebira is the main thoroughfare that runs from Bab Bou Jeloud (the Blue Gate) deep into the medina, all the way to the Kairaouine Mosque. It is one of the busiest streets in Fes, lined with shops selling everything from spices to textiles. But if you look carefully, you will find small weaving workshops tucked into the side alleys that branch off Talaa Kebira, particularly in the direction of the Andalous quarter.

Fes has been famous for its silk and wool weaving since the Merenid period. The city's textile tradition includes handwoven scarves, blankets, and the distinctive Fassi selham, a long wool cloak with a pointed hood that was historically worn by scholars and merchants. The natural dyes used in traditional Fassi textiles come from indigo (blue), saffron (yellow), pomegranate (red), and henna (orange). These are the same dyes that have been used in the region for over a thousand years.

What to Buy: A handwoven wool scarf or shawl dyed with natural pigments. These are lightweight, packable, and genuinely beautiful. A good-quality scarf will cost between 100 and 300 dirhams. Avoid the bright neon-colored scarves sold at the entrance to Talaa Kebira, which are almost always synthetic and imported.

Best Time: Early morning, before 10 a.m., when the weavers are setting up their looms and the street is less crowded. This is also the best time to see the natural dyeing process, which often happens in small courtyards behind the workshops.

The Vibe: Talaa Kebira itself is chaotic and sensory overload, but the weaving workshops are pockets of calm. The weavers work on wooden handlooms that are often family heirlooms, and the pace of work is meditative. If you step inside a workshop, you will likely be offered a seat and a glass of mint tea while you browse.

Insider Detail: Ask to see the difference between machine-woven and hand-woven textiles. A hand-woven piece will have slight irregularities in the weave pattern, and the edges (selvage) will be less perfectly straight. These imperfections are what make the item valuable. Many shops will try to sell machine-made items at hand-woven prices, so this knowledge is essential.

The Drawback: Talaa Kebira is one of the most touts-heavy streets in the medina. You will be followed, called to, and occasionally gently pulled into shops. A firm but polite "no, thank you" (la, shukran) works, but it requires persistence. Also, the street is very narrow in places, and the crowds during peak hours can make it difficult to stop and look at anything.

The Henna Souk Near Bab Bou Jeloud

Just inside the Blue Gate, before you descend into the main body of the medina, there is a small square known as the Henna Souk. Despite its name, this is not just about henna. It is a small open-air market where vendors sell natural beauty products, traditional cosmetics, and a range of local gifts Fes is known for. You will find argan oil (both cosmetic and culinary), rose water from the Dadès Valley, kohl (traditional eye makeup), and handmade soaps.

The Henna Souk has been a gathering point for herbalists and cosmetic traders for centuries. The products sold here are rooted in Moroccan beauty traditions that predate the modern cosmetics industry by a very long time. Argan oil, for example, is produced by women's cooperatives in the Souss region of southern Morocco and has been used for cooking and skincare for at least 3,500 years.

What to Buy: Pure argan oil in a dark glass bottle (light degrades the oil). A 100ml bottle of cosmetic-grade argan oil should cost between 50 and 100 dirhams. Also look for ghassoul clay, a mineral-rich clay from the Atlas Mountains that is used for hair and face masks. It comes in powder form and is incredibly lightweight for packing.

Best Time: Mid-morning, around 10 a.m. The vendors are set up but the square has not yet filled with the afternoon crowds. Avoid late afternoon, when some vendors begin packing up and the remaining stock may be picked over.

The Vibe: Colorful and fragrant. The vendors arrange their products in neat pyramids and rows, and the air smells of roses, mint, and cedar. It is one of the more photogenic spots in the medina, and the vendors are generally less aggressive than those on Talaa Kebira.

Insider Detail: Ask the vendor to show you the difference between pure argan oil and diluted versions. Pure argan oil has a slightly nutty smell and absorbs into the skin without leaving a greasy residue. If the oil smells strongly of perfume or feels slick and heavy, it has been mixed with other oils. The vendors at the Henna Souk are usually honest about this because their reputation depends on repeat local customers.

The Drawback: The square is small and can feel like a tourist trap because of its location right at the entrance to the medina. Some vendors here do sell lower-quality products at inflated prices, targeting first-time visitors. Compare prices with shops deeper in the medina before committing to a purchase.

The Pottery Quarter (Ain Nokbi and the Route de Sefrou)

The pottery and ceramics tradition in Fes is one of the city's most celebrated crafts, and the main production center is in the Ain Nokbi area, along the road that leads out of the medina toward Sefrou. This is where you will find the workshops that produce the iconic blue and white Fassi ceramics, characterized by intricate geometric and floral patterns painted onto a white glaze over a dark clay body.

The blue color comes from cobalt oxide, which has been used in Fassi ceramics since at least the 14th century. The patterns are hand-painted by skilled artisans, many of whom learned the craft from their parents and grandparents. A single large plate can take several hours to paint, and the finest pieces are truly works of art. The pottery quarter is less visited by tourists than the tannery or the coppersmiths' square, which means you are more likely to have a genuine interaction with the artisans.

What to Buy: A hand-painted ceramic plate or bowl in the classic Fassi blue and white pattern. Small plates cost between 30 and 80 dirhams, while larger decorative pieces can range from 150 to 500 dirhams. Tagine cooking pots are also excellent buys here, and they are significantly cheaper than in the tourist shops.

Best Time: Morning, ideally on a Tuesday or Wednesday when the workshops are fully operational. The kilns are usually fired in the early morning, and you can sometimes see the finished pieces being unloaded if you arrive early enough.

The Vibe: Dusty, industrious, and authentic. This is a working neighborhood, not a tourist attraction. The workshops are functional spaces with clay dust on the floors and half-finished pieces drying in the sun. The artisans are focused on their work but will usually pause to show you around if you express interest.

Insider Detail: Many of the workshops here also sell seconds, pieces with minor imperfections (a slightly uneven glaze, a small chip) at steep discounts. These imperfections are often invisible once the item is hanging on a wall or sitting on a shelf. Ask specifically if they have any seconds available, and you can often get a hand-painted plate for half the price of a perfect one.

The Drawback: The pottery quarter is outside the main medina, and getting there requires either a taxi or a 20-minute walk from Bab Bou Jeloud. The area is not well signposted, and you may need to ask locals for directions. Also, the workshops are spread out along a stretch of road, so you will need to visit several to compare quality and prices.

The Spice Souks of the Medina (Near Al-Attarine)

The Al-Attarine neighborhood, named after the 14th-century Attarine Madrasa that sits at its heart, is the historic center of Fes's spice trade. The narrow streets here are lined with shops selling dried herbs, spices, and traditional remedies. The air is thick with the scent of cumin, paprika, saffron, and dried rosebuds.

Spices are one of the most practical and affordable authentic souvenirs Fes has to offer. They are lightweight, packable, and immediately useful in your kitchen back home. The spice merchants of Fes have been trading in these same streets for centuries, and many of the shops are family-run operations that source their products from specific regions of Morocco.

What to Buy: Ras el hanout, a blended spice mix that can contain anywhere from 20 to 50 different spices. Every merchant has their own recipe, and the best ones are mixed to order. Also look for saffron (buy the threads, not the powder, which is often adulterated), dried mint, and cumin. A small bag of ras el hanout costs between 20 and 50 dirhams, and a gram of saffron should cost around 30 to 40 dirhams.

Best Time: Mid-morning, when the spice shops are fully stocked and the merchants are not yet busy with the lunchtime rush. Avoid Fridays, when many shops close for prayer and some remain closed for the afternoon.

The Vibe: Intensely aromatic and visually stunning. The spices are displayed in large open sacks and wooden bins, creating a landscape of reds, yellows, and browns. The merchants are knowledgeable and will explain the origin and use of each spice if you ask. This is one of the most sensory-rich experiences in the medina.

Insider Detail: Ask the merchant to mix a custom spice blend for you. Tell them what kind of food you cook, and they will create a personalized ras el hanout on the spot. This is a service they provide regularly for local customers, and it costs no extra. The resulting blend will be far more interesting and useful than a pre-packaged version.

The Drawback: Some spice shops near the main tourist routes sell pre-packaged spices that are lower in quality and higher in price than what you would find in a local market. The shops deeper in the Al-Attarine neighborhood, away from the main thoroughfares, tend to have better quality and fairer prices. Also, be cautious of shops that push saffron aggressively, as some of it may be adulterated with safflower or dyed corn silk.

The Leather and Textile Workshops of the Mellah

The Mellah is Fes's historic Jewish quarter, located in the newer section of the medina known as Fes el-Jdid. While the Jewish population of Fes has dwindled from tens of thousands to just a handful of families, the Mellah retains a distinct architectural character, with wooden balconies and outward-facing windows that differ from the windowless facades of the Muslim medina.

The workshops in the Mellah produce a range of leather goods and textiles, often with a slightly different aesthetic than those found in Fes el-Bali. The Jewish artisans of Fes were historically known for their fine embroidery and gold thread work, and some of this tradition survives in the small shops that remain. You will also find leather bags, wallets, and belts here, often at prices that are more reasonable than in the main tourist areas.

What to Buy: Embroidered textiles, particularly table runners and cushion covers with gold or silver thread work. These are unique to the Mellah tradition and are difficult to find elsewhere in Fes. A hand-embroidered table runner will cost between 200 and 500 dirhams depending on size and complexity.

Best Time: Late morning or early afternoon, around 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. The Mellah is quieter than Fes el-Bali, and the shops here do not experience the same midday lull. Sundays are a good day to visit, as the Mellah's own small market is active.

The Vibe: Quiet, slightly melancholic, and deeply atmospheric. The Mellah has a different energy from the rest of the medina, and walking through its streets feels like stepping into a different chapter of Fes's history. The shopkeepers here are generally less aggressive and more willing to have a genuine conversation.

Insider Detail: The Mellah is home to one of the oldest synagogues in Morocco, the Ibn Danan Synagogue, which was restored in the 1990s. While it is not a shopping destination, visiting it provides important context for understanding the cultural heritage of the artisans whose work you are buying. Some of the embroidery patterns used in the Mellah's textiles are inspired by Jewish motifs, including the Star of David and the Tree of Life.

The Drawback: The Mellah is less well-maintained than Fes el-Bali, and some of the streets can feel neglected. The selection of shops is smaller, and you may need to visit several before finding something that appeals to you. Also, the area is less signposted, and it is easy to get turned around in the narrow streets.

When to Go and What to Know

The best time for souvenir shopping in Fes is during the shoulder seasons, March to May and September to November. The weather is mild, the medina is less crowded, and the artisans are more likely to have time to talk you through their work. Summer (June to August) brings extreme heat, particularly in July and August when temperatures in the medina can exceed 40 degrees Celsius. Many workshops reduce their hours during this period, and some artisans take time off.

Always carry cash in Moroccan dirhams. While some larger shops accept credit cards, the vast majority of workshops and small vendors operate on cash only. ATMs are available near Bab Bou Jeloud and in Fes el-Jdid, but they can run out of cash on weekends and holidays.

Negotiation is expected in the medina, but it should be respectful. A good rule of thumb is to start at about 40 to 50 percent of the asking price and work toward a middle ground. If a vendor refuses to come down to a price you are comfortable with, walk away politely. Often, they will call you back with a better offer. If they do not, there are usually three other shops within a 30-minute walk selling the same item.

Dress modestly, especially if you plan to visit workshops near mosques or religious sites. Shoulders and knees should be covered, and shoes should be easy to remove, as you may be invited into spaces where footwear is not worn.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Fes expensive to visit? Give a realistic daily budget breakdown for mid-tier travelers.

A mid-tier traveler in Fes can expect to spend between 600 and 1,000 dirhams per day, covering a decent riad (300 to 500 dirhams per night), two meals at local restaurants (150 to 250 dirhams total), transportation within the city (50 to 100 dirhams for petit taxis), and entrance fees or small purchases (100 to 150 dirhams). Fes is significantly less expensive than Marrakech for accommodation and dining, and souvenir prices in the medina workshops are generally lower than in tourist-oriented shops.

What is the average cost of a specialty coffee or local tea in Fes?

A mint tea at a local cafe in the medina costs between 10 and 20 dirhams, while a specialty coffee (cappuccino or espresso) at a modern cafe in the Ville Nouvelle costs between 20 and 35 dirhams. Traditional Moroccan coffee (similar to a cortado with spices) at a street-side stall costs around 5 to 10 dirhams.

Are credit cards widely accepted across Fes, or is it necessary to carry cash for daily expenses?

Credit cards are accepted at hotels, upscale restaurants, and some larger shops in the Ville Nouvelle, but cash is essential for the medina. The vast majority of workshops, small restaurants, street food vendors, and taxi drivers operate exclusively in cash. It is advisable to carry at least 500 to 1,000 dirhams in small denominations at all times when exploring the medina.

What is the standard tipping etiquette or service charge policy at restaurants in Fes?

Most mid-range and upscale restaurants in Fes include a 10 percent service charge on the bill, but it is customary to leave an additional 5 to 10 percent in cash for good service. At small local eateries and street food stalls, rounding up the bill or leaving 5 to 10 dirhams is appreciated but not expected. For guides and workshop visits, a tip of 20 to 50 dirhams is appropriate depending on the length and quality of the experience.

How easy is it to find pure vegetarian, vegan, or plant-based dining options in Fes?

Vegetarian food is widely available in Fes, as Moroccan cuisine includes many plant-based dishes such as tagine with vegetables and preserved lemons, lentil soup (harira), couscous with chickpeas and vegetables, and various salads. Vegan options are more limited but can be found at dedicated vegetarian restaurants in the Ville Nouvelle and at some riads that accommodate dietary requests. In the medina, vegetable tagines and fresh bread with olive oil are reliable staples, though it is important to confirm that no animal broth or butter has been used in preparation.