Best Walking Paths and Streets in Sandakan to Explore on Foot

Photo by  Andre Mouton

25 min read · Sandakan, Malaysia · walking paths ·

Best Walking Paths and Streets in Sandakan to Explore on Foot

AR

Words by

Ahmad Razali

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I have lived in Sandakan for over a decade, and if there is one thing I want visitors to understand, it is that the best walking paths in Sandakan reveal themselves slowly, not all at once. You do not need a car to feel the pulse of this town. You just need good shoes, a bottle of water, and a willingness to climb a hill or two. Sandakan sits on the edge of the Semporna Sea, tucked into a corner of Sabah that most international travelers skip in favor of Kota Kinabalu or the islands. That is a mistake, because walking through Sandakan gives you a version of Borneo that feels raw, honest, and layered with stories the guided bus tours never touch.

I wrote this guide because I believe Sandakan on foot is the only way to truly understand the place. The town is compact enough that you can cover significant ground in a single morning, yet every turn brings something unexpected, a mosque minaret rising above shophouses, a view of the bay that stops you mid-stride, a stall selling something you cannot name but absolutely must try. Walking tours Sandakan visitors often find online tend to focus on the Sepilok orangutans or the Sandakan Memorial Park, and those are essential, but the streets themselves deserve equal attention. This guide is my attempt to put the town on the map for people who like to walk.

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The Sandakan Harbour Mall Waterfront and Harbour Mall Area

The Sandakan Harbour Mall sits right at the edge of the town center, and the waterfront area around it has become one of the most pleasant scenic walks Sandakan has to offer in recent years. The mall itself is unremarkable from an architectural standpoint, a concrete commercial block that replaced older waterfront structures, but the promenade stretching alongside it gives you an unobstructed view of the Semporna Sea. You can see fishing boats bobbing in the distance and, on clear mornings, the outline of Berhale Island across the water. I usually start my walks here around six in the morning, before the heat settles in, when the light turns the sea a pale silver and the air still carries some coolness from the night.

Walk the length of the waterfront promenade and you will pass a series of food stalls and small restaurants that begin setting up by seven. The Harbour Mall area functions as a kind of informal town square, a place where families gather in the evening and where Filipino and Indonesian migrant workers come on Sunday mornings to sit along the railings and make phone calls back home. Most tourists do not realize that the waterfront area was once a working jetty where timber was loaded onto ships during the British colonial era. The entire bay was essentially Sandakan's economic engine for decades, and the Harbour Mall now occupies land that was reclaimed from the sea specifically to revitalize the town center.

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One detail that catches people off guard is the smell. Depending on the tide and the wind direction, the waterfront can carry a strong odor of dried fish and seaweed from the markets just behind the mall. It is not unpleasant once you get used to it, but it is worth knowing before you plan a leisurely coffee stop right on the promenade. The best time to walk here is between six and eight in the morning or after five in the evening, when the temperature drops and the sea breeze picks up. Midday walks are possible but punishing, as there is almost no shade along the main stretch of the promenade.

Harbour Mall Food Court and Morning Market

Behind the mall itself, there is a wet market that opens before dawn, and the food court on the ground floor of the Harbour Mall serves some of the cheapest and most authentic breakfasts in town. I always order the fish ball noodles from the stall on the left side of the food court as you walk in, the one with the red sign. The broth is made from actual fish stock, not powder, and a bowl costs around eight ringgit. The market vendors outside sell fresh tropical fruit, and if you visit between six and seven on a Wednesday or Saturday, you will find durian season sellers from the Sandakan outskirts offering varieties like D24 and Musang King at prices far below what you would pay in Kuala Lumpur.

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The Mile 2 and Mile 3 Shophouse Districts

If you want to understand what Sandakan looked like before the Second World War, you need to walk the shophouse neighborhoods along Jalan Tiga and the streets branching off Mile 2 and Mile 3. These are not restored heritage zones. They are living, crumbling, beautiful commercial streets where hardware stores sit next to Chinese medicine halls and tailors who have been working the same machines since the 1970s. The architecture is classic Sabahan Chinese shophouse, narrow frontages, two or three stories, with the family living above the shop. Many of these buildings were rebuilt after the war, when Allied bombing reduced almost the entire town to rubble, but the street layout and the commercial character remain remarkably consistent with what existed before 1942.

I recommend starting at the intersection of Jalan Tiga and Jalan Dua and walking north. You will pass several Chinese clan association buildings, small temples tucked between commercial properties, and a handful of coffee shops that have not changed their interiors in decades. The coffee at these shops is thick, sweet, and served with condensed milk, a style that reflects the Hakka and Cantonese communities who settled here during the timber boom. One shop I always visit is near the Sandakan Municipal Council area, where the owner still roasts his own beans in a back room. He charges nine ringgit for a cup of his house roast and will happily tell you about the history of the neighborhood if you sit long enough.

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The best time to walk through Mile 2 and Mile 3 is between seven and nine in the morning, when the shops are open but the sun has not yet turned the narrow streets into heat traps. On Sundays, many of the Chinese businesses are closed, so the area feels quieter and less alive. A local tip: look up. The upper facades of many shophouses still carry original plasterwork and ceramic tile imports from pre-war Japan and China. Most tourists walk right past these details because they are focused on the street-level commerce, but the upper stories are where the architectural history lives.

The Sandakan Heritage Trail Markers

Scattered throughout the Mile 2 and Mile 3 areas, you will find bronze heritage trail markers installed as part of a Sandakan walking trail project. These markers identify historically significant sites, including the former location of the Sandakan POW camp administration buildings and the old Sandakan jetty. The trail is not always well maintained, and some markers are partially obscured by parked motorcycles or market stalls, but following them gives you a structured route through the neighborhood. I use these markers as waypoints when I am walking with first-time visitors, because they provide just enough historical context without turning the experience into a lecture.

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St. Michael's and All Angels Church and the Mission District

St. Michael's and All Angels Church sits on a hill above the town center, along Jalan Puncak, and reaching it on foot is one of the most rewarding short climbs Sandakan on foot has to offer. The church was built in 1893 and is the oldest stone church in Sabah, a fact that surprises many visitors who assume Sabah's colonial history begins and ends with the British North Borneo Company's administrative buildings. The structure is modest, grey stone with a simple interior, but the grounds offer a panoramic view of the town and the bay that makes the uphill walk worthwhile. I usually approach from the bottom of Jalan Puncak, starting near the Sandakan Municipal Council offices, which takes about fifteen minutes at a steady pace.

The mission district around the church includes a small school and several colonial-era residences that have been converted into offices or private homes. Walking through this area, you get a sense of how the Anglican mission shaped early Sandakan, providing education and healthcare to the growing Chinese immigrant community. The churchyard contains gravestones dating back to the late 1800s, some of them belonging to missionaries who died of malaria, which was rampant in Sandakan before the mid-twentieth century. One detail most visitors miss is the small plaque near the church entrance that commemorates the Australian prisoners of war who attended services here during the Japanese occupation, a quiet reminder of the complex layers of history compressed into this small hilltop.

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The best time to visit is early morning, before nine, when the grounds are empty and the light comes through the trees at an angle that makes the stone walls glow. By midday, the hilltop gets direct sun and the walk up becomes uncomfortable. Parking at the bottom of Jalan Puncak is limited, and on weekends the road can get congested with vehicles, so walking up from the town center is genuinely the better option.

The Sandakan Heritage Trail and the Municipal Council Area

Adjacent to the church grounds, the Sandakan Heritage Trail continues through the Municipal Council area, where you will find the old Sandakan Municipal Council building, a colonial-era structure that now houses local government offices. The trail connects several historical points, including the former site of the Sandakan post office and the location where the Japanese forces established their headquarters during the occupation. Walking this section takes about forty-five minutes if you stop to read every marker, and the terrain is mostly flat with one moderate incline near the church. I consider this the most historically dense stretch of any walking tour Sandakan has to offer, and it pairs well with a visit to the Sandakan Museum, which sits nearby and provides deeper context for everything you will see on the trail.

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The Sandakan Memorial Park and the Former POW Camp Site

The Sandakan Memorial Park is located about twelve kilometers from the town center, at the site of the former Japanese prisoner of war camp. I include it in this guide because it is one of the most important places in Sabah, and while it is not within walking distance of the town center, it is accessible by a short taxi ride and then explored entirely on foot. The park is built around the remains of the camp, including an interpretive trail that leads you through the former locations of the prison barracks, the kitchen, and the infamous death march starting point. The walking paths within the park are well maintained, paved in some sections and gravel in others, and the entire loop takes about ninety minutes at a contemplative pace.

The memorial itself is a black granite obelisk inscribed with the names of the over 2,400 Australian and British prisoners who died at Sandakan and during the death marches to Ranau. Walking through the park, you pass a series of interpretive panels that explain the history of the camp in detail, and there is a small museum at the entrance that displays artifacts recovered from the site. One thing that most visitors do not realize is that the park was designed with input from Australian veterans' groups, and the landscaping intentionally uses native Borneo plant species that would have been present during the war. The effect is subtle but powerful, you are walking through a landscape that the prisoners would have recognized.

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The best time to visit is early morning, between seven and nine, when the park is almost empty and the tropical canopy provides enough shade to make the walk comfortable. By ten, tour buses begin arriving and the interpretive trail can feel crowded. There is no food or water available inside the park, so bring everything you need. The park opens at seven and closes at five, and there is no entry fee, though donations are encouraged.

The Australian War Memorial and the Death March Route

Within the park, a separate walking path leads to the Australian War Memorial, which marks the approximate location where the death marches began in January 1945. The path is about one kilometer long and runs through secondary jungle, giving you a small sense of the terrain the prisoners would have encountered. The memorial itself is a simple stone cairn with a plaque, and the atmosphere is heavy and quiet. I always spend a few minutes here before walking back to the main park area. This section of the trail is less visited than the main interpretive loop, and if you go early enough, you may have it entirely to yourself.

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The Segama River Waterfront and the Tamu Ground

The Segama River flows along the southern edge of Sandakan town, and the waterfront area near the Tamu ground, Sandakan's traditional open-air market, is one of the most atmospheric places to walk in the entire region. The Tamu ground operates every day but is busiest on Sunday mornings, when vendors from the surrounding kampungs bring fresh produce, fish, and handmade goods to sell. Walking through the Tamu is a sensory overload, the smell of smoked fish, the sound of vendors calling out prices in Bajau and Suluk, the visual chaos of pyramids of tropical fruit and bundles of wild ferns. This is where Sandakan on foot feels most alive, because the Tamu is not designed for tourists. It is a working market, and you are a guest in it.

The waterfront along the Segama River near the Tamu is less developed than the Harbour Mall promenade, but it has its own rough charm. You can see wooden boats pulled up on the riverbank, and the water carries a brown tint from the silt upstream, which is normal and not a sign of pollution. I like to walk the Tamu ground early, around six thirty, when the fish auction happens on the concrete platform near the river. It is conducted entirely in Bajau, and even if you do not understand the language, watching the process is fascinating. One insider detail: the best laksa in Sandakan is sold from a stall at the back of the Tamu ground, near the fish section. The stall opens at seven and usually sells out by ten, so do not wait.

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The best day to visit the Tamu is Sunday, but be aware that the area becomes extremely crowded by eight in the morning and parking is essentially impossible. Walking is the only practical way to reach the Tamu on Sundays, and I would recommend approaching from the Mile 1 side, where the streets are slightly less congested. The heat and humidity inside the Tamu ground can be intense, so bring water and wear breathable clothing.

The Sandakan Fish Market and the Harbour Walk

Adjacent to the Tamu ground, the Sandakan fish market operates daily from early morning until around noon. Walking through the market, you will see species that are unique to the Semporna Sea, including parrotfish, emperor fish, and various types of reef fish that are served in Sandakan's restaurants but rarely seen in markets elsewhere in Malaysia. The market is loud, wet, and not for the squeamish, but it is one of the most authentic experiences Sandakan has to offer. I always stop at the stall near the back where the owner sells freshly cracked sea urchin roe for five ringgit a serving. It is eaten raw, straight from the shell, and it tastes like the ocean condensed into a single bite.

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The Buli Sim Sim Island Viewpoint and the Sandakan North Shore

Buli Sim Sim is a small island just off the northern coast of Sandakan, and the viewpoint area on the mainland, accessible by walking along the north shore from the town center, offers one of the best scenic walks Sandakan has for sunset. The walk starts near the Sandakan Yacht Club and follows a coastal path that passes several traditional fishing villages, or kampungs, built on stilts over the water. The path is not formally maintained, so you will be walking on a mix of dirt, concrete, and wooden boardwalks, but the views of Buli Sim Sim and the open sea are spectacular, especially in the late afternoon when the light turns golden.

The kampungs along the north shore are home to the Bajau Laut, the sea nomads who have lived in this area for generations. Walking past their villages, you will see children playing on the wooden walkways and fishermen mending nets on their boats. It is important to be respectful here, as these are private communities, not tourist attractions. I always walk through without stopping to photograph unless I have been invited. One detail that most visitors do not know is that the north shore path continues all the way to the Sandakan Prison complex, which is visible from the coastal walk but not accessible to the public. The contrast between the open sea and the prison walls is striking and worth the walk just for that view.

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The best time to walk the north shore is between four and six in the afternoon, when the heat has eased and the sunset light transforms the sea. The path has no lighting, so do not attempt it after dark. Wear proper shoes, as some sections of the boardwalk are uneven and slippery when wet.

The Sandakan Yacht Club and the Coastal Path

The Sandakan Yacht Club sits at the formal start of the north shore coastal path, and while the club itself is private, the public road leading to it is accessible and offers a good starting point for the walk. The area around the yacht club has a handful of seafood restaurants that open in the evening, and if you time your walk to end around six, you can stop for grilled fish at one of the open-air stalls near the water. The food is fresh, the prices are reasonable, and the view of the bay at dusk is one of the best in Sandakan.

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The Sepilok Forest Trail and the Borneo Nature Walk

While the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center is primarily known for its feeding platforms, the forest trails behind the center offer some of the most rewarding scenic walks Sandakan has for visitors who want to experience lowland Borneo rainforest without traveling deep into the interior. The trails are well marked and maintained by the Sabah Forestry Department, and they range from short loops of about one kilometer to longer routes that take you through secondary forest and along a boardwalk over a swamp forest. I recommend the longest trail, which takes about two hours and passes through a section of forest where you can see massive dipterocarp trees, some of them over fifty meters tall.

The forest trail is best walked in the early morning, between seven and nine, when the wildlife is most active. I have seen clouded leopards on two separate occasions along this trail, both times around seven thirty in the morning, though sightings are rare and you should not count on one. More commonly, you will see hornbills, macaques, and various species of tropical butterflies. The trail can get muddy after rain, and the humidity under the canopy is intense, so wear long sleeves and trousers to protect against mosquitoes. One insider tip: bring a small pair of binoculars, because the canopy is high and many of the birds and primates you will encounter are best observed from a distance.

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The Sepilok Forest Trail connects to the Rainforest Discovery Center in Sepilok, which has an elevated canopy walkway that offers a different perspective on the forest. The canopy walkway is about 260 meters long and reaches a height of about 15 meters above the forest floor. Walking it gives you a sense of the vertical structure of the rainforest that you cannot get from the ground-level trails. The center opens at eight and closes at four, and there is a small entry fee for non-Malaysian visitors.

The Sepilok Botanical Garden and the Jungle Walk

Adjacent to the orangutan center, the Sepilok Botanical Garden features a series of themed walking paths that showcase the diversity of Borneo's plant life, including sections dedicated to medicinal plants, orchids, and native fruit trees. The paths are paved and well shaded, making this a comfortable walk even in midday heat. I always stop at the section on traditional medicinal plants, where the labels explain how indigenous communities have used various species for centuries. The garden is less visited than the orangutan center, so you will likely have the paths to yourself, especially on weekdays.

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The Agnes Keith House and the Heritage Hill Walk

The Agnes Keith House sits on the hill above the town center, along Jalan Istana, and the walk up to it is one of the most pleasant short walks Sandakan on foot has to offer. The house itself is a restored colonial bungalow that was once home to Agnes Keith, an American author who wrote about her experiences in Sandakan before, during, and after the Second World War. The house now operates as a museum, and the exhibits provide a fascinating glimpse into the life of the colonial elite in pre-war Sandakan, as well as the devastation of the war and the slow rebuilding that followed. The walk up to the house takes about ten minutes from the town center, and the views of the bay improve with every step.

The heritage hill area around the Agnes Keith House includes several other colonial-era buildings, including the former British North Borneo Company administrative offices and the old Sandakan post office. Walking through this neighborhood, you get a sense of how the colonial town was organized, with the European residences on the hill, the Chinese commercial district below, and the indigenous and migrant communities along the waterfront. One detail that most visitors miss is the old cannon near the house, which was installed by the British as a defensive measure and still points out toward the bay. The cannon is partially hidden by overgrowth, so you have to look for it.

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The best time to walk up to the Agnes Keith House is in the late afternoon, around four, when the heat has eased and the light is soft enough for good photographs. The house museum closes at five, so plan to arrive by three thirty if you want enough time to explore the exhibits. The walk back down to the town center takes only five minutes and can be done in the cooler evening air.

The Sandakan Heritage Trail and the Agnes Keith Connection

The Agnes Keith House is a key stop on the Sandakan Heritage Trail, and the trail markers in this area provide detailed information about the house and its history. Walking the heritage trail from the town center to the house takes about thirty minutes if you stop at every marker, and the route passes through a mix of residential and commercial streets that give you a cross-section of daily life in Sandakan. I recommend doing this walk on a weekday, when the streets are active but not as crowded as on weekends.

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The Sandakan Caves and the Karst Landscape Walk

About fifteen kilometers from the town center, the Sandakan Caves, also known as the Gua Bakaring, sit within a limestone karst formation that offers a completely different walking experience from the coastal and urban paths described above. The walk to the caves takes you through secondary forest and past small kampungs, and the caves themselves are home to swiftlets whose nests have been harvested for bird's nest soup for centuries. The walking paths around the caves are basic, dirt trails with some wooden steps near the cave entrances, and the entire exploration takes about ninety minutes. I recommend going with a local guide, as the cave system is more extensive than it appears and the trails can be confusing without someone who knows the area.

The karst landscape around the caves is striking, with jagged limestone outcrops rising from the forest floor and small streams cutting through the rock. Walking through this area, you get a sense of the geological history of Sabah, which was once covered by a shallow sea that deposited the limestone over millions of years. One detail that most visitors do not know is that the swiftlet nests are still harvested by licensed collectors who climb the cave ceilings using bamboo poles and ropes, a practice that has remained largely unchanged for generations. The best time to visit the caves is in the morning, before the heat builds up in the forest, and the walk back to the road is easier in the cooler hours.

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The Sandakan Caves and the Bird's Nest Industry

The bird's nest industry is a significant part of Sandakan's economy, and the caves are one of the primary collection sites. Walking through the area, you will see several swiftlet houses, purpose-built structures designed to attract swiftlets to nest, scattered across the landscape. These houses are a relatively recent development, but they have transformed the local economy and created a new layer of commercial activity in the area. The contrast between the ancient limestone karst and the modern swiftlet houses is one of the most interesting visual juxtapositions you will encounter on any walking tour Sandakan has to offer.

When to Go and What to Know

Sandakan is hot and humid year-round, with temperatures typically ranging from 27 to 32 degrees Celsius and humidity levels above 80 percent. The best time for walking is between six and nine in the morning or after four in the afternoon, when the temperature drops to a more comfortable level. Rain is possible at any time of year, but the wettest months are November through February, and afternoon thunderstorms are common from April through October. I always carry a small umbrella and a bottle of water when I walk, and I wear light, breathable clothing that covers my arms and legs to protect against mosquitoes and sun.

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The town is generally safe for walking, but you should be cautious in isolated areas after dark, particularly along the north shore and near the waterfront. Petty theft is rare but not unheard of, so keep your valuables secure and avoid displaying expensive electronics. The local people are friendly and helpful, and you will often be greeted with smiles and nods as you walk through residential neighborhoods. Learning a few words of Malay or Bajau goes a long way, and the effort is always appreciated.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the safest and most reliable way to get around Sandakan as a solo traveler?

Walking is the safest and most practical way to explore the town center, as most key attractions are within one to two kilometers of each other. For destinations farther out, such as the Sandakan Memorial Park or the Sepilok Orangutan Center, hiring a Grab car is the most reliable option, with fares typically ranging from 10 to 25 ringgit depending on the distance. Avoid unmarked taxis, as they tend to charge inflated rates, and always confirm the fare before getting in if you are using a traditional taxi.

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Which local ride-hailing or transit apps should I download before arriving in Sandakan?

Grab is the primary ride-hailing app used in Sandakan and is available for both Android and iOS. Download it and link your payment method before arriving, as some drivers may not accept cash. There is no local equivalent to Grab that operates in Sandakan, and public bus service is limited and unreliable for tourists, so Grab is essentially your only practical option for motorized transport beyond walking.

What is the safest area to book an accommodation or boutique stay in Sandakan?

The area around Harbour Mall and the town center, particularly along Jalan Pelabuhan and the streets branching off it, is the most convenient and generally safe area to stay. Hotels in this neighborhood are within walking distance of the waterfront, the market, and several restaurants, and the streets are well lit and active in the evening. Avoid accommodations in isolated areas outside the town center, as these can be poorly lit and difficult to access without a vehicle.

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How many days are needed to see the major tourist attractions in Sandakan without feeling rushed?

Three full days is the minimum I would recommend for a comfortable visit that includes the town center, the Sandakan Memorial Park, the Sepilok Orangutan Center, and at least one of the nature or cave walks. If you want to explore the north shore, the Tamu ground, and the Agnes Keith House at a relaxed pace, four days is better. Rushing through Sandakan in two days is possible but will leave you feeling exhausted and unsatisfied, as the heat and humidity slow you down more than you might expect.

How walkable is the main cultural and dining district of Sandakan?

The main cultural and dining district, centered on the Harbour Mall waterfront, the Mile 2 and Mile 3 shophouse areas, and the Agnes Keith House hill, is highly walkable, with most points of interest within a fifteen-minute walk of each other. The terrain is mostly flat except for the hill leading to St. Michael's Church and the Agnes Keith House, and the sidewalks are generally adequate, though some sections are uneven or blocked by parked motorcycles. Walking is genuinely the best way to experience this part of Sandakan, as driving would mean dealing with limited parking and narrow streets that are difficult to navigate.

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