Best Things to Do in Sandakan for First Timers (and Repeat Visitors)
Words by
Wei Lim
Best Things to Do in Sandakan for First Timers (and Repeat Visitors)
Sandakan doesn't announce itself the way Kuala Lumpur or Penang do. It sits quietly on the northeast coast of Sabah, a working port city with a complicated past and a present that rewards anyone willing to slow down. If you are looking for the best things to do in Sandakan, you will find that the city reveals itself in layers, through morning markets, hillside memorials, riverboat rides into mangrove forests, and the kind of seafood dinners that make you rethink every other meal you have ever had. I have been coming here for years, and every trip still turns up something I missed before. This Sandakan travel guide is built from those repeated visits, from wrong turns that became favorites, and from conversations with people who actually live here.
1. Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre: The Reason Most People Come to Sandakan
You will find the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre about 25 kilometers west of Sandakan town, off the main road toward the Sandakan Airport. It opened in 1964 and remains one of the oldest facilities in the world dedicated to rehabilitating orphaned and injured orangutans back into the wild. The centre sits within the Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve, a stretch of lowland dipterocarp rainforest that covers roughly 43 square kilometers.
The main platform feeding sessions happen twice daily, at 10:00 AM and 3:00 PM. Rangers place fruit on a wooden platform, and semi-wild orangutans swing in from the surrounding trees when they feel like it. There is no guarantee every individual will show up, which is the whole point, these are not performing animals. I have sat through sessions where only one juvenile appeared, and other times where five or six came through, including a massive flanged male who moved so slowly and deliberately that the entire crowd went silent.
What to See: The outdoor nursery viewing area, where younger orangutans play on a climbing structure visible through a large glass window. Most visitors rush past this to get to the feeding platform, but the nursery is where you see the most active behavior.
Best Time: Arrive by 9:15 AM for the morning feeding. The afternoon session draws larger tour groups, and the light for photography is harsher.
The Vibe: Quiet and reverent when the orangutans appear, chaotic with selfie sticks when they do not. The boardwalk through the forest behind the centre is genuinely peaceful and most people skip it entirely.
Insider Detail: The centre sells a limited number of tickets each day, and during the June to September peak season, they can sell out by mid-morning. Buy your ticket online through the Sabah Forestry Department portal at least two days ahead if you are visiting during school holidays.
Local Tip: After the feeding, walk the short trail behind the main building toward the rainforest discovery centre. It is free, rarely crowded, and has excellent interpretive panels about the ecosystem that most tourists never read.
2. Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre: The Quiet Neighbor Next Door
Right next door to Sepilok, sharing the same access road and forest reserve, the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre opened in 2014 to address the plight of the Malayan sun bear, the smallest bear species in the world. Many of the bears here were rescued from captivity or illegal pet trade situations. The centre houses around 40 sun bears in large forested enclosures connected by elevated walkways that let you observe them from above.
What strikes me every time is how active these animals are compared to what you might expect. Sun bears are crepuscular, meaning they move most at dawn and dusk, but even during midday you will often see them digging, climbing, or wrestling with each other. The elevated boardwalk gives you a perspective you do not get at most wildlife facilities, you are looking down into the canopy level where the bears actually spend much of their time.
What to See: The group of younger bears in the first large enclosure. They are the most playful and tend to interact with enrichment items the keepers place out each morning.
Best Time: Early morning, right when the centre opens at 9:00 AM. The bears are more active before the heat of the day, and you will have the boardwalk nearly to yourself for the first 30 to 45 minutes.
The Vibe: Intimate and educational without feeling preachy. The staff are genuinely passionate and will often stop to answer questions if you linger near the viewing platforms.
Insider Detail: The centre runs a "bear keeper for a day" program that is not widely advertised on international booking sites. Ask at the front desk or email them directly at least a week in advance. It costs around 300 MYR and includes behind-the-scenes access.
Local Tip: Combine this visit with the orangutan centre in a single morning. They are a three-minute walk apart, and a combined ticket is available at a small discount. Start with the sun bears at 9:00, then walk over for the orangutan feeding at 10:00.
3. Sandakan Heritage Trail: Walking Through a City That Was Almost Entirely Destroyed
Before World War II, Sandakan was the capital of British North Borneo and one of the wealthiest towns in the region, built on timber, tobacco, and copra. Allied bombing in 1945 leveled nearly every structure. The Sandakan Heritage Trail is a self-guided walking route that connects the few surviving pre-war buildings with newer landmarks, telling the story of a city that rebuilt itself from almost nothing.
The trail covers roughly 2 kilometers and starts near the Sandakan Municipal Council building on Lebuh Empat. Pick up a free map from the Sandakan Tourism Association office nearby, or just follow the brass markers embedded in the sidewalk. Key stops include the Sandakan Heritage Museum, the Agnes Keith House, the William Pryer Monument, and the old staircase that once led to the original town center.
What to See: The Agnes Keith House on top of the hill above town. It is a restored colonial-era home that belonged to an American author who wrote about her experiences in Borneo, including her internment during the war. The house itself is modest, but the view from the veranda over Sandakan Bay is the best in town.
Best Time: Early morning, before 9:00 AM, when the heat is manageable and the light is soft enough to photograph the old buildings without harsh shadows.
The Vibe: Melancholic and reflective. This is not a cheerful walking tour. The markers reference the Sandakan Death Marches, the Japanese occupation, and the destruction of the town. It is history that demands a slower pace.
Insider Detail: Look for the old concrete staircase near the market area that locals call the "100 steps." It is not officially marked on the heritage trail map, but it is one of the few pre-war structures still in daily use. Elderly residents still climb it every morning to get from the lower town to the hilltop neighborhoods.
Local Tip: Wear proper walking shoes, not sandals. The streets around Lebuh Tiga and Lebuh Empat are uneven, and after rain the old stone steps become genuinely slippery.
4. Sandakan Central Market (Pasar): The Beating Heart of Daily Life
The Sandakan Central Market sits right on the waterfront at the end of Lebuh Empat, and it is the single best place to understand how this city actually functions. The ground floor is a wet market where fishermen bring in their catch starting around 5:00 AM. The upper floors house dry goods, textiles, and a food court that serves some of the cheapest and most authentic meals in Sabah.
I have been coming to this market for years, and the thing that always strikes me is the variety of seafood. You will see species here that do not appear on restaurant menus, tiny reef fish, mud crabs still snapping, and buckets of fresh prawns sorted by size and price. The vendors are used to tourists taking photos, but a smile and a few words of Malay go a long way.
What to Order: Head to the upstairs food court and look for the stall selling hinava, a traditional Kadazan-Dish of raw fish cured in lime juice with ginger, onion, and chili. It is the Sabahan equivalent of ceviche and costs around 8 to 12 MYR per portion.
Best Time: Between 6:00 and 8:00 AM for the wet market at its most active. The food court is best between 11:00 AM and 1:00 PM, before the lunch rush clears out the popular stalls.
The Vibe: Loud, wet, and alive. The ground floor smells like the sea in the most literal sense. The upstairs food court is calmer but still energetic, with vendors calling out prices and the clatter of plates constant.
Insider Detail: Behind the main market building, along the waterfront, there is a row of smaller stalls selling dried seafood and fish crackers. The prices here are significantly lower than at tourist-oriented shops in town, and the quality is identical. Buy your souvenirs here.
Local Tip: Bring small bills. Many vendors at the wet market do not carry change for 50 or 100 MYR notes, and you will overpay if you do not have 5s and 10s ready.
5. Kinabatangan River Safari: The Wild Heart of Eastern Sabah
The Kinabatangan River is the longest river in Sabah, stretching about 560 kilometers from the Crocker Range to the Sulu Sea. The lower floodplain, accessible from Sandakan by road in about two to three hours, is one of the richest wildlife corridors in Southeast Asia. This is where the activities Sandakan is most famous for really come into their own, river cruises at dawn and dusk that put you face to face with proboscis monkeys, pygmy elephants, crocodiles, and if you are extraordinarily lucky, a wild orangutan.
I have done the Kinabatangan river safari three times now, and each trip has been different. The first time, a herd of pygmy elephants crossed the river about 50 meters from our boat at sunset. The second time, we saw nothing larger than a monitor lizard for two hours, then a storm rolled in and the sky turned purple and gold. The third time, a crocodile slid off a mud bank so quietly that only the guide noticed.
What to See: The proboscis monkey colonies that live in the trees along the riverbanks near Sukau and Abai. They are endemic to Borneo and have those extraordinary bulbous noses that make them look permanently surprised. Early morning cruises, departing around 6:00 AM, give you the best chance of seeing them active.
Best Time: The dry season, roughly March to October, when water levels are lower and animals congregate along the river. Morning cruises are generally better for primates, evening cruises for birds and crocodiles.
The Vibe: Primal and humbling. The river is brown and slow-moving, the jungle presses in from both sides, and the silence between animal sightings is the kind of silence that makes you aware of your own breathing.
Insider Detail: Book directly with a local lodge or community-based tourism operator rather than through a Sandakan tour agency. You will pay less, and more of your money stays in the local community. Operators in Sukau village offer two-night packages with three river cruises, meals, and accommodation starting from around 400 MYR per person.
Local Tip: Bring binoculars. The guides have spotting scopes, but having your own pair means you are not waiting for a turn when something appears in the canopy. A basic 8x42 pair is sufficient.
6. Sandakan War Memorial Park: Remembering the Death Marches
The Sandakan Memorial Park, located on the original site of the Sandakan prisoner-of-war camp, is one of the most important World War II sites in Southeast Asia. During 1945, the Japanese forced around 2,400 Australian and British prisoners of war to march from Sandakan to Ranau, a distance of about 260 kilometers through dense jungle. Only six Australians survived, all of them having escaped during the marches. It remains the single worst atrocity suffered by Australian servicemen during the war.
The memorial park is compact and well-maintained, with a series of interpretive stations that walk you through the history of the camp and the marches. There is a small museum with artifacts recovered from the site, including personal items belonging to prisoners. An obelisk stands at the center of the park, and the grounds are landscaped with tropical plants that make the space feel contemplative rather than grim.
What to See: The museum's collection of photographs and personal letters. They are small and easy to walk past, but they are the most human part of the entire site. One letter, written by an Australian soldier to his mother, is so ordinary in its tone that it makes the context almost unbearable.
Best Time: Visit in the late afternoon, around 4:00 PM, when the tour groups have left and the light through the trees is soft. The park closes at 5:00 PM.
The Vibe: Solemn and still. This is not a place for casual conversation. The audio guide, available at the entrance for a small fee, adds context that the signage alone does not provide.
Insider Detail: Every year on August 15, an annual memorial service is held at the park to commemorate the Sandakan Death Marches. If your visit coincides with this date, attending the service is a profoundly moving experience. The Australian and Malaysian flags are lowered, and surviving family members sometimes attend.
Local Tip: The park is about 1.5 kilometers from the city center. It is walkable, but the road has no sidewalk for part of the route. I recommend taking a Grab car, which should cost no more than 8 to 10 MYR from the central market area.
7. Sim Sim Island: Sandakan's Closest Beach Escape
Sim Sim Island is a small island just off the coast of Sandakan, connected to the mainland by a short bridge. It is not a resort destination. It is a local fishing village with wooden stilt houses, a narrow beach, and a pace of life that feels decades removed from the city. For a first-time visitor looking for experiences in Sandakan that go beyond the wildlife and war history, this is a genuine window into coastal Sabahan daily life.
The island is small enough to walk around in about 30 minutes. The beach on the eastern side is modest, more mudflat than white sand, but the sunsets over the Sulu Sea are spectacular. Local families come here on weekends to picnic and fish off the jetty. There are a few small stalls selling fresh coconut water and fried snacks.
What to See: The stilt village on the western side of the island. Walk along the wooden boardwalks and you will see fishing nets drying, children playing, and cats sleeping in the shade. It is not a tourist attraction, it is a neighborhood, so be respectful and ask before photographing people.
Best Time: Late afternoon, arriving around 4:00 PM. The light is beautiful, the heat has eased, and you can watch the fishing boats return as the sun sets.
The Vibe: Rustic and unhurried. There is no entrance fee, no ticket booth, no souvenir shop. This is what Sandakan's coastline looks like when no one is trying to sell it to you.
Insider Detail: On the mainland side of the bridge, there is a small seafood restaurant that is easy to miss if you are not looking for it. It has no English sign, just a hand-painted board with the day's catch listed in Malay. The grilled stingray with sambal is outstanding and costs a fraction of what you would pay at the tourist restaurants along the Sandakan waterfront.
Local Tip: Bring mosquito repellent. The island's mangrove edges are breeding grounds for mosquitoes, especially in the hour before sunset.
8. Puu Jih Shih Buddhist Temple: Color and Calm on the Hillside
Puu Jih Shih Temple sits on a hillside about 4 kilometers southeast of Sandakan's city center, and it is the most visually striking religious site in the area. Built in 1987, the temple is a Chinese Buddhist complex with multiple prayer halls, a nine-story pagoda, and gardens filled with statues of various bodhisattvas and mythical figures. The elevated position gives you a panoramic view of Sandakan Bay and the surrounding hills.
I first visited on a recommendation from a taxi driver who insisted I would regret missing it. He was right. The temple is not just a place of worship, it is a work of art. The colors are saturated reds, golds, and greens, and the craftsmanship on the roof carvings and dragon pillars is extraordinary. On clear days, the view from the upper terrace stretches all the way to the islands in the bay.
What to See: The nine-story pagoda. You can climb to the top floor, and each level has a different display of Buddhist iconography. The view from the top is the best elevated vantage point in Sandakan.
Best Time: Morning, between 8:00 and 10:00 AM. The temple is cooler, the light is good for photography, and you will avoid the weekend crowds of local worshippers and their families.
The Vibe: Festive and serene at the same time. Incense burns constantly, and the sound of chanting drifts from the main hall, but the gardens are quiet enough to sit and think.
Insider Detail: During Chinese New Year and the Hungry Ghost Festival, the temple hosts special ceremonies and lantern displays that are open to visitors. If your trip falls during these periods, the temple transforms into something even more spectacular than its everyday self.
Local Tip: Dress modestly. Shoulders and knees should be covered. There are sarongs available at the entrance if you arrive in shorts, but bringing your own is more comfortable.
9. Sandakan Waterfront Promenade: Where the City Meets the Sea
The Sandakan Waterfront Promenade runs along the edge of Sandakan Bay, stretching from near the central market toward the old jetty area. It is not a polished tourist attraction. It is a working waterfront where cargo ships anchor, fishing boats come and go, and locals gather in the evening to eat, walk, and watch the sun go down over the Sulu Sea.
In the evenings, the promenade comes alive with food stalls and hawkers selling everything from satay to fresh fruit rojak. The air smells like charcoal smoke and chili sauce. Families spread out on the concrete benches, and teenagers ride motorcycles slowly along the adjacent road. It is the most social public space in Sandakan, and it costs nothing to be part of it.
What to Order: The satay stalls that set up around 6:00 PM near the market end of the promenade. Chicken and beef satay, grilled over coconut shell charcoal, served with peanut sauce and compressed rice cakes. A full plate costs around 8 to 12 MYR.
Best Time: Between 6:00 and 8:00 PM. The heat has broken, the food stalls are in full swing, and the sunset over the bay is consistently beautiful from March to October.
The Vibe: Lively and communal. This is not a quiet, romantic waterfront. It is loud, crowded, and wonderful in the way that only a place where locals actually spend their free time can be.
Insider Detail: Walk to the far end of the promenade, past the main cluster of stalls, toward the old jetty. There is a small coffee shop there that serves kopi-C (local coffee with evaporated milk) for 2 MYR. The owner has been running it for over 20 years and has stories about Sandakan that no guidebook contains.
Local Tip: The promenade can be slippery after rain, and the lighting is uneven in places. Watch your step if you are walking back toward the market area after dark.
10. St. Michael's and All Angels Church: A Living Piece of Colonial History
St. Michael's and All Angels Church, located on Jalan Utara near the centre of town, is one of the oldest stone churches in Sabah. It was built in 1893 by Reverend William Henry Elton, a missionary with the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, and it has survived earthquakes, war, and decades of tropical humidity. The building is modest in size but remarkable in its resilience, thick stone walls, a simple wooden interior, and stained glass windows that have been replaced and repaired multiple times over the years.
The church is still an active Anglican parish, and services are held in English, Malay, and Kadazan-Dusun. Visitors are welcome outside of service times, and the churchyard contains graves dating back to the late 19th century, including those of early missionaries and colonial administrators. The inscriptions on the older headstones have been worn nearly smooth by rain and time.
What to See: The memorial plaque inside the church dedicated to the victims of the Sandakan Death Marches. It is easy to miss, mounted on a side wall near the altar, but it connects this quiet place of worship to the larger tragedy that defines Sandakan's wartime history.
Best Time: Weekday mornings, when the church is open but no services are scheduled. Sundays are busy with multiple services in different languages.
The Vibe: Cool, quiet, and heavy with history. The stone walls keep the interior noticeably cooler than the outside air, and the wooden pews have a patina that only comes from over a century of use.
Insider Detail: Ask the church warden, who is usually around in the mornings, about the history of the building. He has a collection of old photographs showing the church before and after the war, and he is happy to share them with genuinely interested visitors.
Local Tip: The church is within walking distance of the Agnes Keith House and the heritage trail route. Combine all three into a single morning walk, starting at the church around 8:30 AM.
When to Go and What to Know
Sandakan sits just 6 degrees north of the equator, so the climate is hot and humid year-round, with temperatures typically between 27 and 32 degrees Celsius. The wettest months are November to February, when afternoon downpours are heavy but usually short. The driest and most popular months are March to October, which also coincide with the best wildlife viewing along the Kinabatangan River.
The Malaysian Ringgit is the local currency, and while credit cards are accepted at larger hotels and restaurants, cash is essential at markets, small eateries, and for Grab rides. ATMs are available in town, but I recommend withdrawing enough for a day or two at a time, as some machines occasionally run out of cash on weekends.
Grab, the Southeast Asian ride-hailing app, works well in Sandakan and is significantly cheaper than traditional taxis. Download the app before you arrive and link a payment card. Most rides within town cost between 6 and 15 MYR.
English is widely spoken in tourist areas, but learning a few phrases of Malay goes a long way. "Terima kasih" (thank you), "berapa harga" (how much), and "sedap" (delicious) will earn you smiles and sometimes better prices.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it possible to walk between the main sightseeing spots in Sandakan, or is local transport necessary?
The central area of Sandakan, including the market, waterfront promenade, St. Michael's Church, and the heritage trail stops, is walkable within a 2-kilometer radius. However, attractions like Sepilok, the sun bear centre, and Puu Jih Shih Temple are 4 to 25 kilometers from the city centre and require a Grab car or taxi. The Kinabatangan River is a two-to-three-hour drive away and requires arranged transport.
What are the best free or low-cost tourist places in Sandakan that are genuinely worth the visit?
The Sandakan Heritage Trail, the waterfront promenade, Sim Sim Island, and the Sandakan War Memorial Park are all free. St. Michael's Church asks for a small donation of around 5 MYR. The central market food court serves full meals for 5 to 10 MYR. These are the experiences that give you the most authentic sense of the city per ringgit spent.
Do the most popular attractions in Sandakan require advance ticket booking, especially during peak season?
The Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre and the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre both sell tickets on-site, but during the June to September peak season and Malaysian school holidays, Sepilok can reach capacity by mid-morning. Online booking through the Sabah Forestry Department website is available and recommended during these periods. Kinabatangan River lodge packages should be booked at least two weeks in advance for peak season.
How many days are needed to see the major tourist attractions in Sandakan without feeling rushed?
A minimum of three full days is recommended. Day one for the city centre, heritage trail, market, and waterfront. Day two for Sepilok and the sun bear centre. Day three for either the Kinabatangan River overnight trip or Sim Sim Island combined with Puu Jih Shih Temple. Adding a fourth day allows for a more relaxed pace and a second river cruise.
What is the safest and most reliable way to get around Sandakan as a solo traveler?
Grab is the most reliable and safest option for solo travelers. It is available throughout the city, fares are fixed through the app, and trips are tracked. For the Kinabatangan River, arrange transport through your lodge or a reputable local operator. Walking during daylight hours in the central area is safe, but the roads outside the centre often lack sidewalks, so walking longer distances is not advisable.
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