Must Visit Landmarks in Sandakan and the Stories Behind Them

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21 min read · Sandakan, Malaysia · landmarks ·

Must Visit Landmarks in Sandakan and the Stories Behind Them

SN

Words by

Siti Nadia

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The first time I walked up the concrete steps leading to the Sandakan Memorial Park, the morning humidity was already thick enough to make my shirt stick to my back. That single walk changed how I see this coastal town forever, because once you start pulling at the threads of Sandakan's history, everything around you makes more sense. If you are listing out the must visit landmarks in Sandakan, you are not just compiling stops on a checklist, you are tracing the actual pulse of a place shaped by war, trade, timber wealth, and indigenous resilience. Every corner here has a story that most guidebooks reduce to a single paragraph. I have spent years wandering these streets, talking to the aunties who run the drink stalls near the old clock tower, and sitting with former guides who can still recite the names of men who died on the death marches. This is the guide I wish someone had handed me before my first trip.

The War Memorial Park and the Death March Legacy

The Sandakan Memorial Park sits off Jalan Labuk, on top of what was once the site of a Japanese prisoner-of-war camp during World War II. The official designation is the Sandakan Ranau Death March memorial, but locals just call it the Australian War Memorial compound because the six Australian soldiers who survived the marches are the ones most often mentioned in the interpretive signage. The park spreads across a manicured lawn that feels peaceful now, though the cremation oven remnants and the power station ruin give you a quiet jolt when you see them up close.

What to See: the obelisk at the far end of the lawn is ringed by brass plaques listing the nationalities of the 2,400 Australian and British prisoners who died here. The recorded voice narration plays every 30 minutes from speakers hidden in the landscaping, and I actually recommend letting it run while you walk the perimeter path.

Best Time: go before 9am. The grass is still cool, you have the place mostly to yourself, and the light lines up perfectly for photos of the obelisk shadow.

The Vibe: contemplative and clean, almost like a suburban park in Melbourne. The only downside is that the Visitor Center's air conditioning has been temperamental on my last two visits, so bring water. The authenticity factor is extremely high, the museum dioramas are based on survivors' own drawings.

Unrecorded Corner Near the Old Stilt House

Just behind the memorial park's car park, there is a narrow shortcut path that runs along the old Kampung Bubuk creek inlet. A single stilt house still stands there with a blue zinc roof, and the family living in it sells fresh coconut from a cooler on the veranda. Ask them about the creek and they will tell you about the school of Irrawaddy dolphins that swim up to that point during high tide in August and September. The Sandakan English Church is clearly visible from the creek edge, which is a detail most visitors never realize because the church itself is not signposted from the memorial grounds. This connection between the war history and the living day-to-day river economy is exactly what makes the best historic sites in Sandakan stand apart from typical Malaysian tourism.

Local Tip: bring a small bill, Ringgit 3, for the coconut. They do not give change and they do not accept card.

What to Order: fresh coconut water straight from the shell, husked on the spot.

The Complaint: the shortcut path is unpaved and slippery after rain, proper walking shoes are a must.

Sandakan Heritage Trail and the Old Clock Tower

The Heritage Trail starts at the 100-step staircase on Lintang Pantai Baru and winds past almost all the famous monuments in Sandakan in a logical walking route. Old photos are mounted on informational panels along the way, and you can pick up a printed trail map at the Municipal Council building on Lebuh Empat for Ringgit 1. The clock tower itself was erected in 1921 to honor Francis George Atkinson, the first district officer of British North Borneo, who died of malaria at age 28. It still keeps accurate time, which is more than I can say for the tower in Kota Kinabalu.

What to See: the Sandakan Municipal Council building itself, which is a painted cream-and-blue colonial structure with original hardwood floors inside. The Atkinson Memorial Clock Tower is the centerpiece, but most tourists ignore the William Pryer Memorial just two minutes away on foot.

Best Time: late afternoon around 5pm, the harsh midday sun has passed and you can sit on the Lebuh Empat bench facing the clock tower without sweating through your shirt.

The Vibe: quiet and slightly forgotten. The polished brass plaques are tarnishing again, and the office staff inside the council building seem resigned to it. If you peek through the corridor windows, you can rewind a century in about three seconds.

The William Pryer Memorial and Tun Mustapha Photo Gallery

William Pryer established the first settlement in what is now Sandakan in 1879, and his memorial sits right at the base of the 100-step staircase. Most visitors walk past it straight to the steps without reading the plaque. Inside the council building, there is a small photo gallery dedicated to Tun Mustapha Tun Harun, the first Chief Minister of Sabah. His portrait prints are so low resolution you can count the pixels, but the dusty old filing cabinets in the back room hold carbon copies of his early correspondence if you ask the attendant nicely.

What to See: the Tun Mustapha gallery and the original staircase balustrade, which has been repaired with modern concrete that does not quite match the original stonework.

Best Time: during Heritage Week in February, the council lays floral displays at both memorials and a local university group volunteers as guides.

The Vibe: academic, slightly shoebox-like. The flip-book style pamphlet available at the counter costs Ringgit 2 and is genuinely helpful.

Puu Jih Shih Buddhist Temple

Puu Jih Shih Temple perches on a hillside along Jalan Buli Sim Sim, about 4 kilometers from the town center. The view from the elevated terrace is the single best panorama in the entire Sulu Sea coastline area, you can see the actual curvature of the bay on a clear day. Completed in 1987 by a group of Chinese-Malaysian devotees, the temple is not hundreds of years old, but it is one of the most historically significant Chinese temples in Sandakan because it survived both the Japanese occupation and the post-war timber boom with its rituals intact. The temple association has old photo albums from the 1940s that the chairman sometimes shows visitors who come during weekday mornings.

What to See: the large gold Buddha statue in the main hall and the three smaller deities along the left corridor wall. The scenic lookout behind the temple complex is where most locals actually hang out at sunset.

Best Time: weekday mornings between 8am and 10am, when the monks are chanting and the tourist buses have not yet arrived.

The Vibe: serene but not silent, you can hear the construction trucks from the Buli Sim Sim road project creeping in from below. Incense smoke drifts upward in steady columns near the main altar, and the sound of monks chanting creates a rhythm that cuts right through the road noise below.

The Complaint: the stair climb from the main entrance is steep, around 40 steps, and there is no handrail for the upper flight.

The Back Garden of Puu Jih Shih

Behind the main hall, there is a small rock garden with a wooden walkway and several turtle statues near a fish pond. One of the statues is missing its head, apparently taken by a vandal around 2019, and the association has never replaced it. There is also a small ancestral shrine dedicated to the founding committee members, hand-written in Hokkien and Mandarin. Locals sometimes leave fresh longan fruit on the shrine rather than the usual mandarins, which is a small but telling local variation you will not read about in any guidebook. When you visit, you are seeing one of the most important historic sites in Sandakan because the Chinese community funded almost all of the town's early infrastructure, and this temple physically represents that investment.

Local Tip: park at the lower lot, not the upper one, and use the side entrance near the community hall to skip the steep stairs.

What to Order: in the temple canteen at the base of the hill, get the kueh sopan dessert, only available on weekends.

St. Michael's and All Angels Church

St. Michael's is the English Church built in 1897, and it sits on Jalan Prigg Pasir not far from the Sandakan Harbour Board compound. Its timber beams were sourced from the original belian forests around the Labuk River basin, which is why the interior still smells faintly of ironwood even after 125 years of tropical humidity. The church is one of the few pre-war buildings in Sabah still used for its original purpose, and every Sunday the congregation still includes descendants of the Borneo Company clerks who first funded its construction. A brass plaque near the entrance lists the names of the British soldiers who died during the Japanese occupation, and it is one of the only places in town where those names appear outside the War Memorial Park.

What to See: the stained glass window depicting St. Michael slaying the dragon, imported from England by sailing ship in 1901. Also check the church registry book, kept in the vestry, which has baptism records in copperplate handwriting going back to 1900.

Best Time: Sunday morning service at 9am, when the church is fully open and the choir is in attendance. Otherwise the church is only open by appointment.

The Vibe: hushed and deeply cool, the belian wood walls hold temperature far better than modern materials. The pews are narrow and creaky, clearly original, and the small brass plaques to the honored dead are maintained by a single volunteer who shows up every third Saturday with a tin of metal polish.

The Complaint: the interior lighting is very dim, you need a phone light to read the plaques, and they do not allow flash photography during services.

The Church Graveyard and the Coconut Grove

Behind the church, there is a small graveyard shaded by coconut palms. Several pre-war graves have crumbled headstones, but the newer section is well maintained. A local family sells fresh coconut water from a stall at the back gate, and the coconut grove itself is a remnant of the original church compound land. The Sandakan English Church graveyard is one of the most overlooked historic sites in Sandakan because it is not on the Heritage Trail map, yet it contains the oldest European graves in the entire district. The connection to the broader character of Sandakan is direct, this is where the colonial timber economy literally buried its people.

Local Tip: the back gate is sometimes locked, so enter through the main gate on Jalan Prigg Pasir and walk around the side of the church.

What to Order: fresh coconut water, Ringgit 4, from the stall near the back gate.

Agnes Keith House

Agnes Keith House sits on top of a hill along Jalan Istana, overlooking the Sandakan town center and the Sulu Sea beyond. It was the home of Agnes Newton Keith, an American writer who lived in Sandakan during the 1930s and wrote the memoir "Land Below the Wind." The house was destroyed during World War II and rebuilt in 2004 using the original floor plan and some salvaged hardwood. The interior is furnished with period reproductions, and the upstairs veranda has the best view of any heritage building in town. The house is one of the most famous monuments in Sandakan because Agnes Keith's writing introduced the town to the English-speaking world, and her descriptions of the landscape are still accurate today.

What to See: the upstairs veranda view, the original Agnes Keith book collection in the ground floor library, and the kitchen area with its reconstructed wood-burning stove.

Best Time: early morning between 8am and 10am, before the tour groups arrive and the upstairs veranda gets crowded.

The Vibe: polished and slightly museum-like, the reproductions are high quality but lack the lived-in feel of a real home. The upstairs veranda is the highlight, the view of the Sulu Sea from that elevation is genuinely stunning, and the breeze at that height is noticeably cooler than street level.

The Complaint: the air conditioning in the ground floor rooms is set too cold, and the upstairs veranda has no shade after 11am, so bring a hat.

The Agnes Keith Garden and the Old Well

Behind the house, there is a small garden with tropical plants that Agnes Keith described in her books. A stone well sits at the back of the garden, and it is one of the few original structures that survived the war. The garden is maintained by the Sabah Museum Department, and the plants are labeled with both their common and scientific names. The Agnes Keith House garden is one of the most underrated historic sites in Sandakan because most visitors rush through the house and miss the garden entirely. The connection to the broader character of Sandakan is literary, this is where the town's identity as a place of natural beauty and colonial history was first written into the global imagination.

Local Tip: ask the caretaker about the old well, he will tell you it was used by the Japanese soldiers during the occupation, and the stone rim still has faint tool marks from that period.

What to See: the old well, the tropical plant garden, and the view of the town center from the back gate.

Sandakan Crocodile Farm

The Sandakan Crocodile Farm sits along Jalan Labuk, about 12 kilometers from the town center, and it is one of the largest crocodile farms in Malaysia. The farm houses over 1,000 crocodiles, including the massive saltwater crocodiles that are native to the Kinabatangan River basin. The farm was established in 1981 as a conservation and breeding center, and it is one of the most famous monuments in Sandakan because it represents the town's connection to the wildlife of the surrounding rainforest. The farm also has a small museum with crocodile skeletons and information panels about the species found in Sabah.

What to See: the massive saltwater crocodile enclosure, the crocodile feeding show at 11am and 3pm, and the small museum with crocodile skeletons.

Best Time: weekday mornings, when the farm is less crowded and the crocodiles are more active in the cooler temperatures.

The Vibe: slightly rough around the edges, the enclosures are functional rather than polished, and the smell of raw chicken feed is strong near the feeding area. The crocodile feeding show is genuinely impressive, the animals are massive and the handlers are skilled, but the viewing platform gets very crowded during school holidays.

The Complaint: the farm is not well signposted from the main road, and the entrance is easy to miss if you are driving too fast.

The Crocodile Farm Museum and the Baby Crocodile Enclosure

The museum at the back of the farm has a collection of crocodile skeletons, including a 5-meter saltwater crocodile skeleton that was found in the Kinabatangan River in 1995. The baby crocodile enclosure is near the museum, and visitors can hold a baby crocodile for a photo, though there is an additional charge of Ringgit 10. The Sandakan Crocodile Farm museum is one of the most overlooked historic sites in Sandakan because most visitors focus on the feeding show and skip the museum entirely. The connection to the broader character of Sandakan is ecological, this farm represents the town's position as a gateway to the wildlife of the Kinabatangan River basin.

Local Tip: bring a hat and sunscreen, the farm has very little shade, and the midday sun is intense.

What to See: the 5-meter crocodile skeleton, the baby crocodile enclosure, and the feeding show.

Sandakan Central Market and the Waterfront

The Sandakan Central Market sits along the waterfront on Jalan Pryer, and it is one of the oldest markets in Sabah. The market was established during the British colonial period, and it still operates as a daily fresh produce and seafood market. The waterfront area behind the market has been renovated in recent years, and there is a new boardwalk with benches and lighting. The market is one of the most famous monuments in Sandakan because it represents the town's role as a trading hub for the surrounding region, and the seafood sold here is some of the freshest in Malaysia.

What to See: the fresh seafood section on the ground floor, the dried fish and prawn paste stalls on the upper level, and the waterfront boardwalk behind the market.

Best Time: early morning between 6am and 8am, when the fishing boats arrive and the seafood is at its freshest.

The Vibe: loud, wet, and chaotic in the best possible way. The ground floor is slippery with seawater and fish scales, and the vendors shout prices in a mix of Malay, Hokkien, and Bajau. The upper level is drier and less crowded, and the dried fish stalls have a pungent aroma that takes some getting used to.

The Complaint: the ground floor is extremely slippery, and the drainage is poor, so wear proper shoes and watch your step.

The Waterfront Boardwalk and the Old Pier

The waterfront boardwalk behind the market has been renovated with new lighting and benches, and it is a popular spot for evening walks. The old pier at the end of the boardwalk is a remnant of the original Sandakan harbor, and it is one of the few remaining structures from the colonial timber trade era. The Sandakan Central Market waterfront is one of the most underrated historic sites in Sandakan because most tourists visit the market for food and miss the boardwalk and pier entirely. The connection to the broader character of Sandakan is economic, this waterfront is where the timber wealth that built the town was loaded onto ships and sent around the world.

Local Tip: the best time for photos is just after sunset, when the market lights reflect off the water and the boardwalk is less crowded.

What to See: the old pier, the waterfront boardwalk, and the fresh seafood section of the market.

The 100-Step Staircase and the Agnes Keith Viewpoint

The 100-step staircase on Lintang Pantai Baru is one of the most photographed spots in Sandakan, and it connects the waterfront area to the hilltop where Agnes Keith House sits. The staircase was built during the British colonial period, and it is one of the most famous monuments in Sandakan because it appears in almost every tourist photo of the town. The view from the top of the staircase is spectacular, you can see the entire Sandakan bay and the surrounding hills. The staircase is also one of the most important historic sites in Sandakan because it represents the town's colonial-era urban planning, with the waterfront for trade and the hilltops for administration and residence.

What to See: the view from the top of the staircase, the informational panels along the staircase, and the Agnes Keith House at the top.

Best Time: early morning or late afternoon, when the light is best for photos and the heat is less intense.

The Vibe: steep and slightly exhausting, the staircase is a genuine workout, and there are no handrails for most of the climb. The view from the top is worth the effort, and the breeze at that height is a welcome relief from the humidity below.

The Complaint: the staircase has no shade, and the concrete steps get very hot in midday sun, so bring water and wear proper shoes.

The Staircase Informational Panels and the Old Lamp Posts

Along the staircase, there are informational panels with old photos of Sandakan from the colonial era. The old lamp posts along the staircase are original colonial-era fixtures, though they have been rewired with modern bulbs. The 100-step staircase informational panels are one of the most overlooked historic sites in Sandakan because most visitors rush up the steps without reading the panels. The connection to the broader character of Sandakan is visual, these panels show how the town has changed over the past century, and the old lamp posts are a physical reminder of the colonial infrastructure that still shapes the town today.

Local Tip: read the informational panels on the way down, not up, you will be less out of breath and can actually absorb the information.

What to See: the informational panels, the old lamp posts, and the view from the top of the staircase.

When to Go and What to Know

Sandakan's climate is tropical and humid year-round, with the driest months typically between March and September. The wettest months are November through February, and heavy afternoon downpours are common during this period. Most of the must visit landmarks in Sandakan are outdoors or partially exposed, so plan your visits for early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and rain. The Heritage Trail and the 100-step staircase are best done in a single morning, starting at 7am, before the tour buses arrive. The War Memorial Park and Agnes Keith House are open daily, but the English Church requires an appointment outside of Sunday services. Bring cash in small denominations, as many of the smaller vendors and temple canteens do not accept cards. Wear proper walking shoes, the ground is often wet and uneven, and the staircase climbs are steep.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the safest and most reliable way to get around Sandakan as a solo traveler?

Grab operates reliably in Sandakan and is the most cost-effective option, with fares typically ranging from Ringgit 5 to Ringgit 15 for trips within the town center. Metered taxis are available at the airport and major hotels but are roughly 30 percent more expensive than Grab. Walking is feasible for the Heritage Trail and waterfront area, but distances between outlying sites such as the crocodile farm and Puu Jih Shih Temple require motorized transport.

Do the most popular attractions in Sandakan require advance ticket booking, especially during peak season?

Agnes Keith House and the Sandakan Memorial Park both charge entrance fees of Ringgit 15 and Ringgit 10 respectively, and neither requires advance booking at any time of year. The Sandakan Crocodile Farm charges Ringgit 25 for adults and Ringgit 15 for children, with no advance booking system in place. Peak season crowds are manageable, and walk-in entry is standard at all three locations.

Is it possible to walk between the main sightseeing spots in Sandakan, or is local transport necessary?

The Heritage Trail, the 100-step staircase, Agnes Keith House, the English Church, and the Central Market are all within a 2-kilometer radius and can be covered on foot in a single morning. Puu Jih Shih Temple and the Sandakan Crocodile Farm are 4 kilometers and 12 kilometers from the town center respectively, and require Grab or taxi transport. The War Memorial Park is 3 kilometers from the town center and is reachable by a 10-minute Grab ride.

What are the best free or low-cost tourist places in Sandakan that are genuinely worth the visit?

The 100-step staircase, the Atkinson Memorial Clock Tower, the William Pryer Memorial, the waterfront boardwalk, and the Central Market are all free to visit. The Sandakan Heritage Trail map costs Ringgit 1, and the English Church is free to enter during Sunday services. The Puu Jih Shih Temple charges no entrance fee, though the temple canteen sells food at low prices.

How many days are needed to see the major tourist attractions in Sandakan without feeling rushed?

Two full days are sufficient to cover the Heritage Trail, Agnes Keith House, the War Memorial Park, Puu Jih Shih Temple, and the Central Market at a comfortable pace. A third day is recommended if you plan to visit the Sandakan Crocodile Farm and take a river cruise on the Kinabatangan, which is a separate half-day excursion. Rushing through all the major sites in a single day is possible but not advisable given the heat and the amount of walking involved.

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