Must Visit Landmarks in Miri and the Stories Behind Them
Words by
Siti Nadia
The Oil That Built a City and the Landmarks That Remember It
I have walked the streets of Miri since I was a kid trailing my father through the wet market behind Jalan Maju, and the thing about this city is that most people only think of it as a transit point to national parks or the Mulu caves. That is their loss. The must visit landmarks in Miri are not the ones with the longest queues or the tallest observation decks. They are the older structures on Canada Hill, the mosques along the coast, the colonial-era shophouses that still lean slightly after monsoon seasons, and the monuments that a lot of locals walk past without a second glance. Every one of these places carries a piece of the story of how Miri went from an oil-drilling outpost to the fifth-largest city in Sarawak. I want to walk you through all of them.
Canada Hill and the Grand Old Lady of Miri
If there is one site that defines the famous monuments Miri identity is built on, it is the oil derrick perched on top of Canada Hill overlooking the South China Sea. The Grand Old Lady, as everyone still calls it, was the first oil well in Malaysia and began production on December 22, 1910. Shell struck black gold here, and everything that Miri became grew out of that single event. I climbed the concrete steps up Canada Hill more times than I can count, usually in the late afternoon when the heat breaks and the light turns gold over the petroleum museum below the derrick itself. The Petroleum Museum sits right at the base of the hill and is free to enter. Inside, you will find old drilling equipment, geological surveys, and a surprisingly well-curated timeline of Sarawak's oil industry stretching from 1910 through the formation of Petronas in 1974. On the walls, you can see photographs of migrant workers who came to Miri from across Asia and beyond to work the fields. These photographs humanise the city in a way that a tourism brochure never could. The derrick itself still looks exactly the way it does in old pictures, steel frame and all, rusted in places but never removed or painted over. It is more honest than any polished memorial could be. At night, the derrick is lit up from below, and if you eat at one of the seafood restaurants along the Esplanade facing the water, you can watch its silhouette moving gently in the breeze against the darkening sky. Most tourists head straight for the Mulu National Park queue without ever making the 20-minute drive from the city centre to this hill. That mistake says more about the way Sabah and Sarawak tourism is marketed than about the experience itself. A local tip here is to visit the Petroleum Museum on a weekday morning rather than any weekend. On Saturdays, school groups flood the exhibits and the narrow hallways become a bottleneck. On Wednesdays or Thursdays, you will often have the entire place to yourself.
What to See: The original 1910 derrick on the hilltop and the photographic archives inside the Petroleum Museum, which document the lives of early oil workers from at least a dozen countries.
Best Time: Weekday mornings before 11 a.m., or after 5 p.m. when the sun is lower and the hilltop walk is manageable without drenching yourself in sweat.
The Vibe: Quiet and reflective rather than exciting. The museum is split into cramped rooms that feel like a community archive rather than a polished institution. The walk up the hill is steep, and there is zero shelter from the rain if the weather turns.
Tamu Muhibbah and the Living Heritage of Miri Markets
Tucked into the older residential blocks behind Jalan Pandan, Tamu Muhibbah is the market most locals think of when they talk about where Miri's cultural roots remain visible on a daily. This is one of the more overlooked historic sites Miri residents take for granted, not because it lacks significance but because it has been functioning so steadily for decades that nobody pauses long enough to admire it. The wet market section runs from early morning until midday. Vendors sell everything from dried fish to jungle produce that arrived on the morning bus from Bekenu, a small town about 45 kilometres east. You will find engkabang nuts here, which are the illipe nut harvested in cycles from wild trees in the interior. Making keropok with these was a small cottage industry in Miri that once supplied snack packets across Borneo. The dry market stalls along the back sell textiles, prayer items, and household goods. The Miri architecture here is strictly functional, a concrete structure with a flat roof and open sides that does its best against the tropical humidity. Nothing about the building is beautiful in any grand sense, but the way people interact inside it tells you more about the city than any polished cultural centre. I always come here for breakfast. A woman near the entrance sells the best laksa I have ever had in Miri, a bowl of coconut-broth noodles with prawns and a sambal that hits the back of your throat the right way. She has been there for over twenty years. Her stall has no signboard.
What to See: The wet market section for jungle produce and dried seafood, plus the unmarked laksa stall near the entrance.
Best Time: Between 7:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m. The laksa sells out. The produce stalls start packing up by noon.
The Vibe: Raw, humid, and deeply local. This is a working building, not a curated tourist experience. The flooring gets slippery from ice melt and fish water, so decent shoes matter.
The Brooke Family Legacy at the Miri Crocodile Farm and the Surrounding Area
Let me be direct about the Miri Crocodile Farm before you come at me: this is where the famous landmarks Miri and Kuching overlap uncomfortably with conservation tourism. It sits along Jalan Puchong near the mouth of the Baram River estuary, and has been operating for decades. The real reason I am including it is because of what lies around it. The estuary landscape is a living archive of how the Brooke White Rajahs shaped this part of Sarawak's coast. Charles Brooke, the second White Rajah, extended administrative control over Miri and the surrounding Baram territory in the late 1800s, years before the first oil well appeared. The crocodile farm sits on land that was once part of the coastal marshlands the Brookes designated as a buffer zone between the river system and the emerging town centre. You see these spatial decisions everywhere once you start paying attention. What to order I would not say here because it is not a restaurant. What to see is the enclosure of saltwater crocodiles, some of which have been in captivity long enough to stretch over four metres. The feeding demonstration, if timed right, is a spectacle of teeth and water. Architecture-wise, the farm is rudimentary. Concrete ponds, wire fencing, a wooden ticket booth. There is a better setup inside the nearby Miri wetlands, where the canopy walk on the mangrove boardwalk gives you an uninterrupted view of the ecosystem as it once stretched for kilometres before the roads came. Most tourists do not make it past the first few ponds because the access path toward the wetlands is not clearly signposted. Go right at the rear gate of the croc farm compound and follow the dirt footpath for about 200 metres. You emerge onto a wooden boardwalk that is gorgeous and largely empty on any weekday.
What to See: Long-pond crocodile enclosures and the mangrove boardwalk accessible through the back of the property.
Best Time: Feeding times, which vary by season but generally happen around mid-morning. Weekday afternoons guarantee fewer families in the compound.
The Vibe: Rustic and slightly grim. The facility is old, and parts of the signage are faded. The smell of brackish water and fish is constant. Not everyone finds that atmospheric, but I always have.
St. Columba's Church and the Colonial Christian Footprint
On a small rise along Jalan Kubu, St. Columba's Church sits quietly among the older buildings that survived the Japanese occupation during the Second World War. The church was established in 1923 by Anglican missionaries who arrived as part of the earliest wave of oil-industry families. It is one of the most enduring historic sites Miri has that predates the modern city by decades. The original timber structure was replaced later with a modest concrete building that still holds services today. What strikes me each time I visit is how small the compound is. This was not a grand colonial cathedral. It was a place of worship for a small community of British and Australian oil workers and their families, planted on Miri soil before the city had grown beyond a few streets. The grounds behind the church contain a handful of gravestones of early expatriate workers. Some are legible, others have been worn smooth by rain and growth. I stood there with a man in his seventies who had been attending services at this church since childhood. He told me that during the Japanese occupation, the church was used as a storage depot and the congregation met secretly in homes across the road. Stories like this are rarely written down anywhere official. They live in the memory of older parishioners, and I worry that those memories will fade without a marker or a plaque. The church is still active with English-speaking and Chinese-speaking congregations. If you arrive during a weekday, you can enter the building when it is unlocked, and the simplicity of the interior does the talking.
What to See: The gravestones behind the church and the original 1923 foundation plaque near the entrance.
Best Time: Weekday mid-mornings when the grounds are quiet and the doors are often open. Avoid Sunday mornings, which are busy with congregation and limited access for visitors.
The Vibe: Peaceful and modest. There are no elaborate stained-glass windows or carved pews here. A few trees provide shade in the small graveyard but not enough to walk comfortably in full afternoon sun.
The Miri City Council Building and the Laila Taib College Block on Jalan Kingsway
Jalan Kingsway is the old commercial spine of Miri, and two adjacent structures on this street tell parallel stories of how the city transitioned from industry to administration. The Miri City Council building, a sturdy modernist block with wide windows and a flat facade, has served as the seat of local governance since the 1960s. Next to it, the former Laila Taib College building used to house one of the few publicly funded higher education institutions in northern Sarawak before it relocated. Both represent Miri architecture trying to reconcile function with aspiration. The City Council building is not postcard-worthy, but the flag out front flies high enough to be seen from the junction with Jalan Millennia. Inside, the hallways are lined with portraits of past mayors, each mirroring a phase of the city's development from oil town to city status, which Miri officially received in 2005. When I visited to process a permit years ago, I noticed that the marble floor in the lobby had been here since the building opened. Staff told me it was imported from a quarry in Peninsular Malaysia. That single material choice felt like a statement: you are entering the seat of official Miri, and it would not be cheap. Laila Taib College, after relocating, left the old block in a state of semi-reuse, where some floors serve as temporary offices and others remain empty. Plans for redevelopment have been discussed for at least a decade without much visible progress. This lag between plan and action is its own kind of Miri story.
What to See: The foyer of the City Council building with the mayor portraits, and the shell of the old Laila Taib College block as a case study in unfulfilled urban renewal.
Best Time: Weekdays between 9 a.m. and noon, when the offices are open and you can walk into the Council foyer freely. Weekend access is limited to the exteriors only.
The Vibe: Institutional and slightly dated. The air conditioning inside the Council building works but sounds like it has not been serviced recently. There is no public seating in the foyer, so visits are brief by design.
The Grand Miri Mosque (Masjid An-Nur)
Officially known as Masjid An-Nur, the Grand Miri Mosque is located on a reclaimed plot of land near the mouth of the Miri River, facing the sea. Construction began in the early 1990s and was completed in phases, resulting in one of the most striking pieces of Miri architecture you will encounter in the city. The mosque can accommodate several thousand worshippers. Its design blends traditional Islamic elements, such as domes and geometric tilework, with a contemporary volume that makes it feel larger than it needs to be. The minaret is visible from the Miri Bridge, and at night, when the floodlights are on, the whole structure glows like a grounded spacecraft. I came here one Friday evening at sunset and sat on the outer steps, waiting for a friend to finish praying. The sound coming from inside the prayer hall was extraordinary, a low, layered hum of recitation washing out through the open side doors into the warm air. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome outside of prayer times if they observe dress codes. Modest covering is essential. Women should bring a headscarf. Children under five are generally not discouraged but are best kept quiet in the outer courtyards. Most of the must visit landmarks in Miri function as tourist-friendly sites. This one functions first and foremost as a living place of worship, and that tension is visible in how quickly security will redirect you if you step too close to the main entrance during salah hours. That said, the genuine warmth of the volunteers who hand you a plastic bag for your shoes tends to offset the initial formality. A local tip is to walk along the prayer hall pathway between rows of columns during overcast late afternoons. The light is diffused and grey-gold, and the scale of the covered area is best felt from inside rather than from outside.
What to See: The main prayer hall panorama and the tile geometric pattern on the eastern wall of the courtyard. Walk the covered walkway around the building's perimeter for the full architectural experience.
Best Time: Late afternoons from around 4 p.m. until maghrib. The light is the most flattering then and the compound is not crowded with worshippers outside of the sunset prayer itself.
The Vibe: Grand but not intimidating. The sheer volume of the dome interior and the cool tile flooring underfoot create a sense of calm even on crowded Fridays. The main drawback is parking. The lot fills up fast on Fridays and during Ramadan, so plan to walk or park further away in the neighbourhood across the road.
Miri Borneo Tropical Adventure
Miri Borneo Tropical Adventure runs an outdoor jungle trekking and survival-training operation out of the hills about 30 kilometres southeast of the city near the Niah fringe. It functions as both a soft-adventure portfolio, guided walks, river crossings, fire-making workshops, and as a cultural immersion space where Orang Ulu guides share jungle-medicine plant identification and birdcall mimicry with small groups. The operation started in the early 2000s as a side project of a former forestry worker who saw that Miri tourists were heading straight to Gunung Mulu without stopping for anything in between. His site is not a polished resort. It is a wooden platform camp with a raised sleeping area, a communal cooking bench, and the surrounding jungle as its walls. What most visitors do not know is that the trail system connects via a network of informal pathways used by nearby Penan and Kenyah communities for hunting and foraging access. On rare occasions, you will see a set of footprints in the mud that do not belong to your guide. One night, I woke to the sound of monkeys swinging through the canopy a couple of metres from the rafters. The guide told me that gibbons have been testing the durability of the platform roof for years, and that one beam was replaced three times in as many seasons because of nocturnal acrobatics. The visibility of community knowledge here is a practical reminder that Miri is not a city in a vacuum. It is the urban terminus of a connective web of indigenous trails and river-logistics systems that predate any colonial structure. Every famous monuments Miri display in its galleries refer back to a landscape like this, but the gallery walls can never replicate the humidity or the soundscape.
What to See: The 1.5-hour forest-foraging route, the river-crossing demonstration (waterproof bags supplied), and the communal fire-making sessions each evening.
Best Time: Dry season months from late March through September when river levels are manageable and trails are less treacherous. Two-hour afternoon jungle walks starting around 2 p.m. offer the best light.
The Vibe: Basic and immersive as long as you arrive prepared for sleeping on a raised plank with a thin mattress. Leeches are a near certainty in July and August, so bring long socks and a headlamp. Downpour-shortened afternoon treks are a genuine possibility even in the dry months.
The Old Shophouse Blocks of Jalan Maju
Jalan Maju is a street that most visitors to Miri do not associate with tourism, and yet its surviving shophouse blocks are arguably the most honest record of the city's commercial evolution over a century. Some of these structures date to the Japanese occupation years of the early 1940s, and many were patched or rebuilt using salvaged timber and corrugated roofing after the Allied bombings targeted Miri's oil infrastructure. Street-level shops still sell hardware, textiles, religious items, and wholesale packaged goods. Upstairs, you will occasionally find old residential balconies with rusted steel railings and potted plants arranged along the sill. The effect is an untidy but beautiful stratification of eras. My aunt ran a sewing shop on this road for fifteen years. The front of the house still displayed a faded cutout of her logo, featuring a needle and thread, until the building was last repainted. Stories like hers are everywhere on Jalan Maju if you slow down long enough to notice the layers of signage, some painted over three or four times, above doorframes leading nowhere. I recommend walking the full length of Jalan Maju early in the morning before the wholesale deliveries begin. After 10 a.m., the street becomes congested with lorries and motorcycles. By 9 a.m., the light is soft enough to photograph the faded wall advertisements, which date across different eras. A genuinely hidden detail most visitors skip is the staircase at number 47. A narrow internal staircase on the left to the first-floor landing still has the original checkerboard black-and-white floor tiles installed during the 1950s rebuild. It is not signed, but the building owner is almost always happy to let you come up for a closer look. This is an undeniable expression of the historic sites Miri holds in its urban core, especially when considered alongside the newer developments beyond the Old Town.
What to See: The faded multi-layered painted signage on facades, the checkerboard tile staircase at number 47, and the original timber-framed balconies along the upper floors of shophouses between numbers 20 and 60.
Best Time: Weekday mornings from 7 a.m. to 9 a.m., before deliveries and heat arrive simultaneously. The light on the south-facing wall of signage between numbers 30 and 50 is ideal for photography from around 7:30 a.m.
The Vibe: A working commercial street, not a heritage lane. The noise, honking, and engine exhaust can be overwhelming after mid-morning. Drink bottled water or coffee because the heat, even early, is aggressive.
When to Go / What to Know
Miri sits one degree north of the equator, so the climate is relentlessly hot and humid year-round. If the must visit landmarks in Miri are your focus, plan between March and September, which tends to bring more manageable rainfall than the monsoon-heavy months from November through February. Mornings before 9 a.m. are always more comfortable than midday, particularly for outdoor or hilltop sites. The Petroleum Museum and Masjid An-Nur do not officially close for a lunch break, but volunteer availability and staff attentiveness can dip between 1 p.m. and 2 p.m. on weekdays. For safety, do not attempt to climb Canada Hill or walk the Jalan Maju blocks alone after dark. While Miri is broadly safe, some street lighting in the older commercial areas is inconsistent. Carry enough Malaysian ringgit in small bills for market purchases at Tamu Muhibbah because most vendors do not accept cards or QR codes. If a guide volunteer offers to bring you to the old staircase on Jalan Maju or to a less obvious mangrove access point near the crocodile farm, a tip of 10 to 20 ringgit per person is appreciated but not expected.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it possible to walk between the main sightseeing spots in Miri, or is local transport necessary?
Most of Miri's major landmarks, including Canada Hill, Tamu Muhibbah, Jalan Maju, and the Petroleum Museum, are clustered within a roughly four-kilometre radius near the city centre. Walking between them is feasible in the early morning before the heat peaks. Distances beyond this cluster, such as to Masjid An-Nur or the crocodile farm, require a drive of 10 to 20 minutes or a similar-length ride-hailing trip.
Do the most popular attractions in Miri require advance ticket booking, especially during peak season?
The Petroleum Museum is free and does not require booking. Masjid An-Nur is open to visitors outside prayer times without reservation. Sites like Miri Borneo Tropical Adventure may require advance email or phone confirmation for guided treks during peak months from June to August. The crocodile farm operates on a walk-in basis with a small entrance fee, typically under 30 ringgit per adult.
What are the best free or low-cost tourist places in Miri that are genuinely worth the visit?
The Petroleum Museum, Canada Hill climb, and Masjid An-Nur compound are all free. Walking tours of the Jalan Maju shophouse blocks cost nothing unless you purchase food or drink along the way. Tamu Muhibbah is a working wet market, so entry is free, and a bowl of laksa or a packet of dried fish can cost as little as 6 to 12 ringgit.
How many days are needed to see the major tourist attractions in Miri without feeling rushed?
Two full days allow for a comfortable pace covering the Petroleum Museum, Canada Hill, Tamu Muhibbah, the Jalan Maju blocks, Masjid An-Nur, and either the crocodile farm or Miri Borneo Tropical Adventure on a single dedicated excursion day. A third day is preferable if you want to also visit the Miri wetlands boardwalk system or make a half-day trip to the Niah edge communities near the national park.
What is the safest and most reliable way to get around Miri as a solo traveler?
Ride-hailing apps function reliably on most city routes during daylight hours, with typical fares between 8 and 20 ringgit for most intra-city trips. The main bus terminal along Jalan Brooke connects to outlying areas, but frequency drops after 6 p.m. Walking in the early mornings is safe and practical for the city-centre cluster of landmarks, though solo travel on unlit side roads after dark is not advised.
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