Best Things to Do in Hakone for First Timers (and Repeat Visitors)

The Best Things to Do in Hakone for First Timers (and Repeat Visitors)

I have been coming to Hakone for over a decade now, first as a wide-eyed visitor from Tokyo and later as someone who eventually rented a small apartment near Miyanoshita for two years. The best things to do in Hakone are not just the postcard views of Mount Fuji from Lake Ashi or the ropeway drifting over volcanic steam. They are the quieter moments, the ones you stumble into when you wander off the main circuit and let the mountain air slow your pace down. This Hakone travel guide is written for both the first timer who wants to hit the essentials and the repeat visitor who already knows the ropeway schedule by heart and is looking for something deeper.

Hakone sits inside the caldera of an ancient volcano in Kanagawa Prefecture, about 90 minutes southwest of central Tokyo. The town is not really one town at all but a collection of small onsen villages strung together by a loop of buses, cable cars, funiculars, and a pirate ship that somehow makes perfect sense once you are on it. The whole area is part of Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, and the volcanic activity that shaped the landscape is still very much alive in Owakudani, where sulfurous steam vents hiss from the mountainside. Understanding that volcanic energy is key to appreciating why Hakone feels the way it does, hot, mineral-rich, and slightly otherworldly.

What follows are the activities Hakone has to offer that I return to again and again, plus a few that surprised me on recent visits. I have tried to include the kind of detail you only get from actually living here, the best time to show up, what to order, and the one thing most guidebooks leave out.

Hakone Open-Air Museum in Choukoku-no-Mori

The Hakone Open-Air Museum sits along the winding road through Choukoku-no-Mori, a neighborhood whose name literally means "forest of sculptures," which is exactly what you get. Opened in 1969, it was Japan's first open-air museum, and the collection now includes over 120 sculptures spread across manicured lawns and wooded hillsides. Picasso has an entire pavilion here, housing around 300 of his works, mostly ceramics and prints that most people do not expect to find in a mountain town outside Tokyo.

I usually arrive right at opening, around 9:00 AM, because the morning light filtering through the trees makes Henry Moore's massive bronze curves look almost alive. The Symphonic Sculpture, a stained-glass tower you can climb inside, is best experienced before the midday crowds fill the spiral staircase. On weekdays in late October, you might have entire sections to yourself. The museum cafe serves a surprisingly good curry rice, and the outdoor foot bath near the entrance is free, a small onsen soak with a view of the surrounding mountains that most visitors walk right past without noticing.

One thing most tourists miss is the small sculpture garden tucked behind the Picasso Pavilion, accessible through a path that is easy to overlook. It features lesser-known Japanese sculptors and is almost always empty. The only real drawback is that the museum shop gets packed with tour groups by 11:00 AM, so if you want to browse without being jostled, do it first thing.

Owakudani Valley and the Black Eggs

Owakudani is the volcanic valley that sits at the top of the Hakone Ropeway, and it is one of the most dramatic landscapes in all of Japan. The valley was formed roughly 3,000 years ago during a massive eruption of Mount Hakone, and the ground still breathes sulfurous steam from cracks and vents that dot the barren, grey hillside. The ropeway from Sounzan Station takes about 10 minutes to reach the Owakudani stop, and on a clear day you can see Mount Fuji rising above the caldera rim to the northwest.

The famous kuro-tamago, black eggs boiled in the volcanic hot springs, are sold at the small shop right by the ropeway station. The local legend says each one adds seven years to your life. They taste like regular hard-boiled eggs with a faint sulfur tang, and eating one while standing in the steam with the wind whipping across the valley is one of those experiences in Hakone that sticks with you. I always go on a weekday morning, ideally before 10:00 AM, because the ropeway queue can stretch to 40 minutes or more on weekends and holidays, especially during the autumn foliage season in November.

Here is something most visitors do not realize: the main viewing area near the ropeway station is not the only spot. If you follow the hiking trail that loops up and around the valley, about a 30-minute walk each way, you get a completely different perspective with far fewer people. The trail was partially closed for years due to increased volcanic activity but has reopened in sections, so check the current status at the station. The wind at the top can be fierce and cold even in summer, so bring a layer.

Lake Ashi and the Pirate Ship Cruise

Lake Ashi, or Ashinoko, is the crater lake that sits at the heart of Hakone, and the sightseeing cruise across it is one of the most iconic activities Hakone has on offer. The boats are styled as galleons, which sounds absurd until you see the red-and-gold hull gliding across dark blue water with the forested caldera walls rising on all sides. The main route runs between Togendai on the southern shore and Hakone-machi and Moto-Hakone on the northern shore, taking about 30 minutes per leg.

I prefer to board at Moto-Hakone because the torii gate of Hakone Shrine stands right at the water's edge, and seeing it from the lake with the mountains behind it is one of the best photo opportunities in the area. The best time to take the cruise is late afternoon, around 3:00 or 4:00 PM, when the light turns golden and the day-trip crowds have started heading back toward Odawara. On foggy days, which happen more often than you might expect, the lake takes on an almost eerie quality, mist curling between the hills, and the pirate ship emerging from the grey like something out of a ghost story.

A detail most tourists overlook is that the Hakone Free Pass, available at Odawara Station, covers the pirate ship along with nearly every other form of transport in the loop. Without the pass, a one-way ticket costs around 1,000 yen. The upper deck gets windy and cold, so sit inside if the weather is rough. Also, the boats sometimes cancel service entirely during high winds or when volcanic gas levels at Owakudani spike, which closes the ropeway and can disrupt the whole southern loop. Always check the Hakone Navi app or the tourist information center before planning your day around the cruise.

Hakone Shrine and the Forest Path

Hakone Shrine sits at the northern end of Lake Ashi, deep in a cryptomeria forest that has been considered sacred for over 1,200 years. The approach from Moto-Hakone Pier takes you along a path lined with towering cedar trees, and the atmosphere shifts almost immediately, quieter, cooler, heavier with moisture and age. The main hall was originally built in 757 on the summit of Mount Hakone's inner caldera, but it was moved to its current lakeside location centuries ago. The iconic red torii gate standing in the water is what most people photograph, but the shrine itself, with its moss-covered stone stairs and ancient trees, is the real draw.

I visit most often in the early morning, before 8:00 AM, when the forest path is empty and the only sound is water dripping from the cedars. The shrine grounds are open 24 hours, so you can technically go anytime, but the morning light through the trees is something special. On New Year's Day, thousands of people make the pilgrimage here for hatsumode, the first shrine visit of the year, and the atmosphere is electric but overwhelming. If you want the spiritual experience without the crowd, a regular weekday in May or September is ideal.

Most tourists take a photo at the lakeside torii and leave, but if you walk up the stone staircase into the forest behind the main hall, you will find a smaller sub-shrine and a trail that connects to the Old Tokaido Road. That trail is one of the best-kept secrets in Hakone, a preserved section of the original highway that connected Edo and Kyoto during the Tokugawa shogunate. Walking even a few hundred meters on the old stone paving, surrounded by forest, gives you a sense of what travel in Japan felt like 300 years ago.

The Old Tokaido Road and Amazake-chaya Teahouse

The Old Tokaido Road between Moto-Hakone and Hatajuku is a stretch of the original Edo-period highway that has been preserved under towering cryptomeria trees. Walking this section is one of the most underrated experiences in Hakone, and it connects directly to the history that made this region important in the first place. During the Tokugawa era, Hakone was a checkpoint town, a mandatory stop for travelers moving between Edo and the western provinces, and the checkpoint itself still exists as a small museum near Hakone-machi.

About halfway along the forest path, you will find Amazake-chaya, a teahouse that has been serving travelers since the early 1700s. The building is old, dark wood and low ceilings, and the specialty is amazake, a sweet, non-alcoholic fermented rice drink that is warming in cold weather and refreshing when it is hot. They also serve matcha with a small wagashi sweet, and the price for either is around 500 yen. I always order the amazake and sit on the wooden bench outside, listening to the wind in the cedars. The teahouse is open from around 9:00 AM to 4:30 PM, but it closes on some weekdays, so check ahead.

The one thing that catches first timers off guard is how uneven the old stone paving is in places. Wear proper shoes, not sandals, especially after rain when the stones get slippery. Also, the path is shaded and can be surprisingly cold even in summer, so a light layer is wise. This walk takes about 45 minutes at a leisurely pace, and you can loop back to Moto-Hakone or continue toward Hatajuku where a bus can take you back to the main circuit.

Hakone Checkpoint Museum and the Edo-Era Legacy

The Hakone Checkpoint, or Hakone Sekisho, was one of the most important border control points during the Tokugawa shogunate, operating from 1619 until the end of the Edo period in 1868. The checkpoint was strategically placed here because the steep mountain passes made it nearly impossible to bypass, and its primary purpose was to prevent weapons from entering Edo and to stop the wives and children of feudal lords from secretly escaping the capital. The current structure is a meticulous reconstruction completed in 2007, based on historical documents and archaeological findings, and it sits along the Tokaido Highway near the shores of Lake Ashi.

Inside, you will find replica weapons, travel permits, and detailed dioramas showing how the checkpoint operated on a daily basis. The museum is small, maybe 30 minutes to see everything, but the level of detail is impressive. I find it most interesting in the late afternoon, after the tour buses have left, when you can take your time reading the English panels without someone's umbrella in your frame. Admission is around 500 yen for adults, and it is included in some Hakone Free Pass packages.

Most visitors do not know that the checkpoint grounds include a short section of reconstructed barracks where the inspectors lived, and the back garden has a view of the lake that is almost always empty of people. The gift shop sells replica Edo-period travel passes that make a genuinely cool souvenir. The only downside is that the museum is right along the main road, and traffic noise can be distracting if you are trying to imagine the quiet of the 17th century.

Miyanoshita Onsen and the Fujiya Hotel

Miyanoshita is one of Hakone's oldest hot spring villages, sitting at about 450 meters elevation along the road between Hakone-Yumoto and Gora. The area has been a resort destination since the 8th century, and during the Meiji era it became a favorite retreat for foreign diplomats and writers. The Fujiya Hotel, opened in 1878, is the grand old dame of the neighborhood, a sprawling wooden complex that has hosted everyone from Charlie Chaplin to John Lennon. You do not need to stay there to appreciate it, the main lobby and the garden restaurant are open to the public, and walking through the corridors is like stepping into a Meiji-period time capsule.

I usually stop at the Fujiya for lunch, where the Western-style set meals in the main dining room run around 3,000 to 4,000 yen and come with a view of the garden that has barely changed in a century. The hotel's history is displayed in small exhibits throughout the building, including photographs of famous guests and original architectural drawings. After lunch, I walk down the hill to Hatakejuku, a small street of local shops and cafes that most tourists never see because they are focused on the ropeway stops.

Miyanoshita has several public bathhouses where you can soak for around 500 to 800 yen without staying at a ryokan. My favorite is a small place near the main intersection that has an outdoor rotenburo with a view of the valley. The water here is clear and mildly alkaline, different from the sulfurous baths at Hakone-Yumoto up the hill. The best time to visit Miyanoshita is midweek in spring or autumn, when the maple trees along the road turn color and the village feels like it belongs to another century. Parking is extremely limited, so take the bus from Hakone-Yumoto Station, which runs every 15 to 20 minutes.

Gora and the Hakone Art Museum

Gora sits at the top of the Hakone Tozan Railway, Japan's only mountain switchback train, and the ride up from Hakone-Yumoto is an experience in itself. The train climbs steeply through dense forest, reversing direction at switchbacks, and the whole trip takes about 40 minutes with stops at small stations that feel frozen in time. Gora itself is a quiet, upscale neighborhood of ryokan and small museums, and the Hakone Art Museum is the main cultural draw.

The museum, founded in 1952, focuses on Japanese ceramics from the Jomon period through the Edo era, with a particularly strong collection of tea ceremony ware. The building is modest, but the real treasure is the moss garden outside, one of the most beautiful in the Kanto region. The garden is designed in the stroll style, with a pond, stone paths, and a teahouse where you can drink matcha for about 600 yen while looking out over a carpet of green moss that has been growing since the museum opened. I go in late April or early May when the fresh green of spring makes the garden almost impossibly vivid.

The museum is open from 9:30 AM to 4:30 PM, and admission is around 900 yen. It is rarely crowded, even on weekends, because most visitors are heading to the ropeway at Sounzan, which is just one stop up the train line. The one thing to watch for is that the last train down to Hakone-Yumoto departs around 5:30 PM, and missing it means a long wait or an expensive taxi. Also, the museum shop has a small but excellent selection of ceramic pieces by contemporary potters, and the prices are more reasonable than what you would find in Tokyo galleries.

Pola Museum of Art in Sengokuhara

The Pola Museum of Art sits in the Sengokuhara marshland area, about a 15-minute bus ride from Gora, and it is one of the most visually striking museums in Hakone. The building is mostly underground, designed to blend into the natural landscape of the pampas grass fields that turn golden in autumn. The collection was assembled by the Pola cosmetics family and focuses heavily on French Impressionism, with major works by Monet, Renoir, and Cezanne alongside Japanese Western-style paintings and glassware.

I have been here at least five times, and the thing that keeps pulling me back is how the building itself shapes the experience. The galleries are lit with natural light filtered through skylights, and the underground design keeps the temperature stable and the atmosphere hushed. The Monet room, with its large Water Lilies canvas, is the highlight, but the collection of Art Nouveau glass in the basement is equally stunning and far less crowded. Admission is around 1,800 yen for adults, and the museum is open from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM.

The best time to visit is on a weekday in November, when the pampas grass outside is at its peak and the museum offers a special walking path through the fields. Most tourists do not realize that the museum has a separate building called the "Forest of the Seven Fairy Tales," a small woodland installation based on European fairy tales that is included in the admission price and is genuinely enchanting for anyone who appreciates quiet, imaginative spaces. The cafe inside serves a light lunch and has floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the marshland. The only real complaint I have is that the bus service from Gora is not as frequent as you might hope, sometimes only once every 30 to 40 minutes, so plan your timing carefully.

When to Go and What to Know

Hakone is a year-round destination, but the experience changes dramatically with the seasons. Spring, late March through May, brings cherry blossoms to the lower elevations and fresh green to the mountains. Summer is humid but the higher villages like Gora and Miyanoshita stay cooler than Tokyo. Autumn foliage peaks in mid to late November, and this is the busiest season, expect crowds everywhere. Winter is quiet and cold, with occasional snow at higher elevations, and some outdoor attractions may have reduced hours.

The Hakone Free Pass is the single most practical purchase you can make. Available at Odawara Station, it covers the Tozan Railway, the ropeway, the pirate ship, all local buses, and discounts at many museums. A two-day pass costs around 6,100 yen for adults and pays for itself after just a few rides. Buy it before you leave Odawara, not after.

Cash is still king at many smaller establishments, especially teahouses and public bathhouses. Carry at least 5,000 to 10,000 yen in small bills. Also, Hakone's weather can shift rapidly, especially at higher elevations. A sunny morning at Lake Ashi can turn into fog and cold rain by afternoon at Owakudani. Always pack a layer and a compact umbrella.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the safest and most reliable way to get around Hakone as a solo traveler?

The Hakone Free Pass covers the Tozan Railway, ropeway, pirate ship, and local buses, which together form a complete loop connecting all major sightseeing areas. Buses run every 15 to 30 minutes on the main routes during daytime hours, roughly 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM. Taxis are available but expensive, with a ride from Gora to Hakone-Yumoto costing around 4,000 to 5,000 yen. Walking between some areas is possible but involves steep mountain roads, so public transport is strongly recommended.

Is it possible to walk between the main sightseeing spots in Hakone, or is local transport is necessary?

Walking between certain spots is feasible, such as the 45-minute forest path between Moto-Hakone and Hatajuku along the Old Tokaido Road, or the 30-minute trail around Owakudani. However, the full Hakone loop spans roughly 20 kilometers with significant elevation changes, making it impractical to cover on foot in a single day. The ropeway, funicular, and bus network exist specifically because the terrain is too steep and spread out for walking alone. Most visitors combine short walks with public transport.

What are the best free or low-cost tourist places in Hakone that are genuinely worth the visit?

The Old Tokaido Road forest path is free and takes about 45 minutes, offering a preserved Edo-period highway under ancient cedar trees. The Hakone Shrine grounds are open 24 hours at no cost, including the lakeside torii gate and the forest approach. Amazake-chaya teahouse charges around 500 yen for amazake or matcha. The Hakone Checkpoint Museum costs approximately 500 yen. Several public bathhouses in Miyanoshita and Hakone-Yumoto charge between 500 and 800 yen for a soak.

Do the most popular attractions in Hakone require advance ticket booking, especially during peak season?

Most attractions in Hakone do not require advance booking and accept walk-in visitors. The Hakone Open-Air Museum, Pola Museum of Art, and Hakone Art Museum all sell tickets at the door. The Hakone Free Pass can be purchased at Odawara Station on the day of travel. The pirate ship and ropeway operate on a first-come, first-served basis, and queues during peak autumn foliage season in November or Golden Week in early May can exceed 30 to 60 minutes. Arriving before 9:00 AM significantly reduces wait times.

How many days are needed to see the major tourist attractions in Hakone without feeling rushed?

Two full days are sufficient to cover the main circuit, including Lake Ashi, the pirate ship, Owakudani, the ropeway, the Hakone Open-Air Museum, and one or two onsen visits. Adding a third day allows time for the Old Tokaido Road walk, the Pola Museum, the Hakone Art Museum, and a more relaxed pace at each location. Attempting the full loop in a single day is possible but requires starting early, around 7:30 AM, and involves significant transit time between stops.