Most Historic Pubs in Cortina d'Ampezzo With Real Character and Good Stories
Words by
Giulia Rossi
The old stone walls along Via Riscason first hooked me more than a decade ago, but it is the historic pubs in Cortina d'Ampezzo that truly reveal this town's personality when the skis come off. Behind the polished resort facade these days there are still rooms where Ladin shepherds, mountaineers, and generations of locals have knocked back grappa since long before the 1956 Winter Olympics ever put Cortina d'Ampezzo on the world map. In my years wandering the Dolomites from Marmolada to Tre Cime di Lavaredo, I have traced those steps through dim back rooms, backcountry rifugi, and old bars along Corso Italia where patrons in cable-knit sweaters and mountaineering boots still hold court. This directory is my personal map to the heritage pubs Cortina d'Ampezzo relies on for its real nightlife, the kind of classic drinking spots where the beer tap clangs of old wood and local gossip echo stories worth staying for.
Old Bars in the Centre of Cortina d'Ampezzo
1. Bar Pasticceria Alpina on Via Riscason
Tucked just off Piazza Angelo Dibona and a short walk up Via Riscason, Bar Pasticceria Alpina is practically a living time capsule among the old bars Cortina d'Ampezzo inherited from its earlier resort years. The espresso machine hisses next to glass pastry cases stacked with strudel and nut tortes, and the back room oozes Austro-Hungarian wood panelling that probably dates to the early twentieth century.
What to Order / See / Do: Ask for a cappuccino with Meliga honey and a slice of the local Zelten cake at breakfast, or later in the afternoon order a glass of Braulio aged liqueur on the rocks while you watch the old regulars hold court at the zinc counter.
Best Time: Show up between 7:30 and 9:00 in the morning when the pastry trays are first pulled from the kitchen, and you can snag the front marble table before tour groups start trickling down from the Faloria cable car.
The Vibe: Quiet and unhurried in the mornings, though it fills up after 11:00 and finding a table becomes tough during winter season. Locals stand shoulder to shoulder with hikers in Gore-Tex jackets, debating ski conditions and trails with low voices.
Local Tip: Once the afternoon draws in, step outside Via Riscason and look up at the mountain ridgeline. On clear days Monte Cristallo glows red just before sunset, and Alpina's terrace is one of the last spots on that street to catch golden hour without glare.
2. Bar Porter on Via Riscason
Next door to Alpina but with a completely different rhythm, Bar Porter has served as one of the reliable classic drinking spots Cortina d'Ampezzo residents return to after long days on the Tofana or in the valley. It is small, wood-lined, and more bar than patisserie, with framed photographs of early Dolomite expeditions on the walls alongside advertising mirrors from the 1930s.
What to Order / See / Do: Try the Novo Rosso, the house vermouth, poured by the glass from behind the bar. Pair it with a mix of taralli, pickled vegetables, and cured bresaola if you arrive early enough.
Best Time: Late afternoon, roughly 16:30 to 18:30 in winter when mountaineers roll in from the Cinque Torri area and the tables get animated with trail talk. In summer months, the Friday evening aperitivo hour draws a nice mix of Cortina old-timers and seasonal staff.
The Vibe: A little dark, a little loud after a few rounds, like so many heritage pubs Cortina d'Ampezzo keeps alive by sheer habit and loyalty. The single unisex bathroom can mean a queue at peak times.
Local Tip: Ask about the photograph of the local ski team from the 1950s behind the register. The bar's owner can name nearly every figure, and the stories connect you right to the moment when Cortina d'Ampezzo stepped onto the Olympic stage.
3. Rifugio Cinque Torri near Averau
Technically a mountain rifugio, not a town bar, Rifugio Cinque Torri has served hearty drinks since before the First World War, when this area was on the Dolomite front line between Italy and Austria-Hungary. Tucked beside the dramatic spires of the Cinque Torri rock towers near Averau, it has evolved into one of the most beloved old bars Cortina d'Ampezzo's hiking and via ferrata networks rely on.
What to Order / See / Do: Order a large mug of apple strudel spiced Gluhwein after a long traverse over the Averau summit trail, or in summer go for a cold local Birra Dolomiti lager. The food list rotates, but the pork knoblauer with sauerkraut is nearly always available.
Best Time: Between mid-June and mid-July when the cable car from the valley floor runs but the main summer crowds have not yet arrived. On clear mornings you can spot all the way across the Boite Valley from the stone terrace.
The Vibe: Raw stone walls, low beams, and a sense of being wrapped into the mountainside like an old mountain hut should feel. It can get uncomfortably warm inside if more than fifty people crowd onto the benches during a midday thunderstorm.
Local Tip: Look out back at the small open-air museum of WWI trenches and barracks ruins. The rifugio sits on land where Alpini soldiers once built a command post, and many of the old drinking songs still sung in these parts originated in that era.
Classic Pubs Along Corso Italia
4. Bar Iris at 31 Corso Italia
A little further along the main pedestrian Corso Italia from the historic centre, Bar Iris has been a dependable stop for locals who wanted somewhere easy for a drink without the resort-town markup of the flashier venues. It is simply furnished, with low leather seating and heavy glassware, but it holds decades of local character.
What to Order / See / Do: The Aperol Spritz made the proper way, poured over plenty of ice with a serious orange slice, is a reasonable mid-afternoon order here. Later in the evening, a Negroni Sbagliato pairs well with their small selection of crostini.
Best Time: Drop in on a weekday evening around 18:00 when the aperitivo crowd from nearby offices drifts in and the conversation stays mostly in Ladin or Italian. Weekends get louder and you will hear more English and German.
The Vibe: A relaxed neighbourhood bar with a slightly worn ambience that tells you many people have sat in these same seats over the years. The Wi-Fi drops out near the back tables, so if you need a reliable connection, sit close to the front window.
Local Tip: The small stage area to one side occasionally hosts Ladin language evenings and poetry readings. Check the handwritten board in the street window for announcements, or ask the bartender directly.
5. Enoteca Baita Fraina on Via Marconi
Just south of the main Corso, Enoteca Baita Fraina occupies a basement space that once served as a centuries-old mountain-style baita, or wooden chalet. The heavy beam ceilings and mountain decor make it one of the most atmospheric old bars Cortina d'Ampezzo offers year-round, especially if you love wine and local cheese.
What to Order / See / Do: Order a tasting flight of northern Veneto wines with a plate of local toma cheese and speck ham. The Montepulciano and Raboso selections are excellent here. Afterward, try the house-made nocino walnut liqueur.
Best Time: Early evening from 17:30 onward in winter, or any time during the off-season weeks in late September and October when the tourist crush thins out and locals reclaim the space.
The Vibe: A warm, wine-cellar atmosphere that feels distinctly rooted in the heritage pubs Cortina d'Ampezzo has preserved from its agrarian past. The basement location can feel cramped if every table is booked, especially during the December holidays.
Local Tip: During the annual Cortina Winter Eats event, the kitchen occasionally prepares vintage mountain recipes from the Ladin tradition, such as casunziei with beetroot. These menus are not advertised widely outside their own local social networks.
6. Gran Caffe Rivo Corso Italia
Not to be confused with the restaurant, Gran Caffe Rivo on Corso Italia remains one of the enduring classic drinking spots Cortina d'Ampezzo night owls depend on for late-night coffee, cocktails, and conversation. Its central location, marble-topped tables, and brass light fixtures practically demand that you sit and stay an hour longer than planned.
What to Order / See / Do: After dinner, move here for a digestivo. The grappa flight, usually three to five varieties depending on the season, is served in proper thimble glasses with water on the side. If you visit during the day, the espresso and freshly baked schiacciata bread made with lard are outstanding.
Best Time: Saturday nights in winter after 22:00 when local ski instructors, hotel staff, and a few adventurous tourists mix in a loosely festive atmosphere. It is one of the few places still drawing a proper night crowd during midweek in the shoulder season.
The Vibe: Polished at first glance but comfortably familiar once you notice the ladder-backed chairs and the familiar surnames on chits at the register. The mirrors and wallpaper have not changed much since the 1970s, and that is the point.
Local Tip: Ask if the "old register" is still in use. The hand-cranked brass cash machine behind the bar may no longer total the bill, but staff sometimes demonstrate it for interested guests.
Heritage Mountain Rifugi as Historic Drinking Spots
7. Rifugio Scoiattoli under Mount Tofana
Accessible from the Col Drusci cable car station or by a scenic walk through the Grava di Tofana forest, Rifugio Scoiattoli has a history stretching back to the early twentieth century, when it served as a mountain shelter and hut for alpine exploration. It has evolved into one of the best-known heritage pubs Cortina d'Ampezzo's ski and hiking trails lead to for a hot drink and mountain views.
What to Order / See / Do: Their bombardino, a warm egg liqueur with brandy topped with whipped cream, is practically a rite of passage in winter. In summer, the cold craft beer selection and pancakes satisfy hikers coming off the Tofane via ferrata routes.
Best Time: Aim for weekdays between 12:00 and 13:30 in January or February to beat the Thursday and Saturday lunch rush, when tour groups dominate the main dining hall. In summer, late May and early June offer wildflowers and relative solitude.
The Vibe: Wooden tables scarred by decades of mountaineering life, yet somehow inviting. The stone terrace overlooking the Tofane ski slope is an observation deck for watching skiers and paragliders alike.
Local Tip: Follow the path around the back of the building to see the stone marker dedicated to local soldiers who trained here before deployments. Many rifugi like Scoiattoli served as points of community remembrance long before they were full-service bars.
8. Rifugio Faloria on Monte Faloria
Reached via the historic Faloria cable car from near the centre of Cortina d'Ampezzo, Rifugio Faloria has long been a rendezvous point for skiers exploring the upper Faloria slopes below Monte Sedi. The rifugio has served drinks and food to visitors and off-piste skiers from this exposed terrace for many years, and the combination of thin air, panoramic views, and roaring fires makes it an unforgettable old-bar experience.
What to Order / See / Do: Their house-special hot chocolate spiked with peppermint schnapps warms the fingers after a powder run. In mid-summer, cold Adrian lager and a mixed charcuterie board can fuel you for a long ridgeline walk.
Best Time: In early December or late April when the cable car runs but the school holidays have not yet begun. The light at sunset during these shoulder weeks paints the Seda and Antelao mountains in unforgettable colours.
The Vibe: High-altitude and a little raw, exactly like a proper alpine mountain pub should be. Wind gusts can sweep across the terrace between 14:00 and 16:00 in winter, so a sheltered table near the panoramic window is worth waiting for.
Local Tip: Check for FIS race information pinned on the corkboard near the bar. Local ski clubs often post training and competition dates here well before the events appear on the regional federation site.
Seasonal and Occasional Old Bars Cortina d'Ampezzo
Bar Postes
At various points through the valley, small bar stations have appeared at key lifts, race grounds, and race-committee buildings, especially during major winter events. These seasonal pop-up bars among the old bars Cortina d'Ampezzo depends on for atmosphere are not always permanent, but they follow a tradition of temporary drinking stops that has existed here since before Olympic races were regularly hosted in the Dolomites.
What to Order / See / Do: Expect simple hot and cold drinks, often served in branded reusable cups during competitions. When present at World Cup events near the Tofane cable car, the small bar near the finish area serves quick espresso and hot chocolate to spectators.
Best Time: During the FIS Alpine Ski World Cup races in late January or early February, or during the Dolomites SkyRace in late July, when these temporary bars are busiest and most atmospheric.
The Vibe: Functional and festive, with a sense of occasion that only comes from standing in a crowd of thousands watching elite athletes descend the Tofane slope. Queues can be long and the service is basic, but the energy is unmatched.
Local Tip: Arrive at least thirty minutes before the main event to secure a spot near the bar. The best views and shortest drink lines are always at the less obvious side entrances.
When to Go and What to Know
Cortina d'Ampezzo's historic pubs and old bars are busiest from mid-December through mid-April and again from late June through early September. If you want to experience the heritage pubs Cortina d'Ampezzo locals actually frequent, visit during the shoulder months of late April, May, October, or early November. Many mountain rifugi are closed outside the main winter and summer seasons, so always check opening dates before planning a long hike just for a drink.
Most classic drinking spots in Cortina d'Ampezzo accept cards, but some rifugi and smaller bars still prefer cash, especially for small orders. Tipping is not obligatory, but rounding up the bill or leaving one to two euros for good service is appreciated. If you plan to visit multiple rifugi in a day, consider carrying a reusable cup and water bottle to reduce waste at altitude.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are there any specific dress codes or cultural etiquettes to keep in mind when visiting local spots in Cortina d'Ampezzo?
There is no strict dress code in most bars and pubs, but locals tend to dress neatly even for casual drinks. Ski boots and full ski gear are acceptable in mountain rifugi, but in town it is polite to remove bulky outer layers and avoid dripping snow across the floor. Loud or rowdy behaviour is generally frowned upon in smaller heritage pubs, especially during weekday evenings when regulars gather.
How easy is it is to find pure vegetarian, vegan, or plant-based dining options in Cortina d'Ampezzo?
Options are limited but growing. Most rifugi and traditional pubs serve meat-heavy Ladin and Tyrolean dishes, but you can usually find vegetable soups, polenta, cheese plates, and salads. In town, a few cafes and restaurants now offer plant-based milk for coffee and at least one vegan main course. It helps to ask in advance, especially at smaller mountain huts where menus are fixed.
Is the tap water in Cortina d'Ampezzo safe to drink, or should travelers strictly rely on filtered water options?
Tap water in Cortina d'Ampezzo is safe to drink and comes from mountain springs in the Dolomites. Many locals drink it directly from the tap. Some older buildings may have pipes that affect taste, but there is no health risk. Public fountains around town also provide fresh mountain water that is regularly tested.
Is Cortina d'Ampezzo expensive to visit? Give a realistic daily budget breakdown for mid-tier travelers.
Cortina d'Ampezzo is one of the more expensive towns in the Dolomites. A mid-tier traveler should budget around 120 to 160 euros per day, including a hotel or B&B at 70 to 100 euros, meals at 30 to 40 euros, and local transport or lift tickets at 15 to 20 euros. A simple coffee and pastry costs around 4 to 6 euros, while a full dinner with a glass of wine runs 25 to 35 euros per person.
What is the one must-try local specialty food or drink that Cortina d'Ampezzo is famous for?
The bombardino is the iconic local drink, a warm mix of egg liqueur and brandy topped with whipped cream, found in nearly every mountain rifugio and old bar during winter. For food, casunziei, a type of hand-folded pasta filled with ricotta, spinach, or pumpkin and served with butter and poppy seeds, is the signature Ladin dish that connects directly to the region's heritage.
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