Best Pubs in Catania: Where Locals Actually Drink
Words by
Giulia Rossi
The best pubs in Catania are not where you think they are. Walk past the Duomo and you will find overpriced aperitivo stands catering to tour groups with their trays of sad cubed cheese. Look a little deeper, past the baroque facades and the vendors selling pistachio cannoli, and you will discover an entirely different drinking culture that has nothing to do with postcards. This is a city where locals have been gathering in specific squares and backstreet bars for generations, passing down their favorite spots like family secrets, and where the real action starts precisely when most tourists have already gone back to their hotels for a rest. I have spent the better part of a decade navigating these streets, learning which bartenders remember your name and which corners of the historic center come alive only after dark. What follows is not a curated Instagram highlight. This is where I actually drink when I want to feel like I live here, which these days is most nights.
The Historic Center: Via dei Sette Amanti and Surrounding Streets
The stretch of Via dei Sette Amanti cuts through what remains of Catania's Roman past, running parallel to the ancient amphitheater buried beneath the city. Most visitors hurry through on their way to somewhere else, but those who slow down find a cluster of local pubs in Catania that have anchored this neighborhood for decades.
Bar Moderna sits at the corner of Via dei Sette Amanti and Via Simone Codignoni, and it has been pouring drinks since my grandfather was a young man. The interior feels frozen in the 1970s, with dark wood paneling, ceiling fans that creak with each rotation, and framed photographs of old Catania teams hanging in perpetual judgment over the patrons. This is not a place that has tried to modernize. The crowd skews older on weekday afternoons, but by 9 PM you will find a mix of university students and neighborhood regulars claiming their territory at the marble bar.
What to Order: House vermouth poured over ice with a twist of orange peel. It costs around four euros and tastes like Sicily distilled into a glass. Pair it with the platter of Sicilian cold cuts and aged cheeses if you are hungry.
Best Time: Weekday evenings between 8 and 10 PM offer the best balance of atmosphere and elbow room. Weekends get crowded with no rhyme or reason to the queue.
The Vibe: Old-school Catania with zero pretension. The music selection alone is worth the visit, cycling through everything from Sicilian folk to 1980s Italian pop. A minor realistic drawback: the restrooms are tucked in the back and require navigating through the kitchen, which feels invasive when you are just trying to refill your water glass.
Piazza Bellini: The Unspoken Living Room
Piazza Bellini sits slightly off the main tourist circuit, elevated above street level and shaded by the ruins of the Greek acropolis walls that run along one edge. In the evenings, the square transforms into Catania's unofficial living room, where groups of friends claim tables outside the bars ringing the piazza and spend hours nursing single drinks while the conversation flows. This is where I bring anyone who claims they do not understand what makes Catania special.
Enoteca Provinciale dominates one corner of the square with its outdoor tables spreading across the cobblestones. The wine list focuses heavily on natural and biodynamic producers from Etna, Vittoria, and Menfi, with bottles starting around twelve euros and staff who actually know what they are talking about. You will not find mediocre mass-market labels here.
What to Drink: A carafe of the local Carricante white wine, which has been gaining international attention for its mineral complexity and subtle citrus notes. Around eight euros per half liter, and it pairs beautifully with the board of local cheeses they put out automatically with each order.
Best Time: Arrive before 8 PM to secure a table on the square. After 9 PM, you will be standing.
The Vibe: Intellectual without being insufferable. You will see architecture students sketching the ruins, retired professors debating politics, and young couples on first dates performing elaborate theater for each other. The drawback: the service charge for table seating adds up, so drinking at the bar inside costs significantly less if you do not mind the tighter quarters.
Local Tip: The narrow staircase leading to the rooftop terrace at the back of the bar is easy to miss. It is open only on weekends and offers views over the square that most people never see because they never ask. Bring a jacket, because the wind picks up after 11 PM even in summer.
The Port District: Aperitivo with a Maritime History
Catania was built around its port, and that maritime legacy still shapes the neighborhood even as cruise ships and container traffic have replaced the fishing boats of centuries past. The bars clustered near the harbor draw a different crowd than those in the historic center, more working-class, more likely to stay rooted in their seats for hours rather than bar-hopping.
Antico Caffè del Porto occupies a corner building on Via Duca degli Abruzzi that has been serving sailors and merchants since 1923. The interior has changed very little, with brass fixtures that still gleam despite their age and a long wooden bar scarred by decades of elbows. The aperitivo spread here is legendary, not for its presentation but for its substance: bowls of marinated olives, tranches of grilled swordfish, little pastry shells filled with ricotta and pistachio.
What to Order: The house spritz made with blood orange juice instead of the standard Aperol. Around six euros, and it tastes like Catania bottled.
Best Time: Late afternoon, around 6 PM, when the light softens over the harbor and the after-work crowd starts filing in.
The Vibe: Genuine and unpolished. You will hear fishermen arguing about the morning catch and dockworkers comparing notes on which bars accept which union cards. Most tourists never make it down here because the port district lacks the obvious charm of the Piazza Duomo area. That is precisely why you should go.
Local Tip: Ask the bartender about the blackboard in the back room. It lists the daily catch and the prices, and if you are lucky, old Angelo will translate the Sicilian dialect abbreviations for you while telling you about the time a submarine ran aground near the lighthouse in 1943.
Via Coppola: The Craft Beer Awakening
Sicily arrived late to the craft beer revolution that swept through northern Italy in the 2000s, but Catania has more than caught up in recent years. Via Coppola, a narrow street that runs parallel to Via Etnea near Piazza Stesicoro, has become the unlikely home of the city's best local pubs Catania has produced for beer lovers.
Birrificio Pagano opened its doors on Via Coppola about six years ago and immediately changed the conversation about what Sicilian beer could be. The space feels industrial without trying too hard, exposed brick walls and copper brewing tanks visible from the street, with a mezzanine level where the aging barrels are stored. The ten taps rotate constantly, always featuring at least
Enjoyed this guide? Support the work