Best Places to Buy Souvenirs in Cagliari (Skip the Tourist Junk)
Words by
Giulia Rossi
Beyond the Keychains: Finding the Real Cagliari to Take Home
If you have ever wandered through a city's historic center only to find every shop selling the same mass-produced magnets and shot glasses, you know the frustration. Cagliari has its share of that, sure, but the real treasures here are tucked into narrow streets where artisans still shape clay, carve cork, and press olive oil the way their grandparents did. Finding the best souvenir shopping in Cagliari means skipping the shops lining Via Roma's ground floors and heading into neighborhoods where locals actually buy the things that make this city worth remembering.
I have lived in Cagliari for over a decade, and every year when friends visit, I walk them past the tourist-facing stalls in Castello without stopping. Instead, I take them to the workshops behind the walls, the family-run ceramicists in Stampace, and the tiny wine shops in Marina where bottles carry labels you will never see in an airport gift shop. What you bring home from Cagliari should tell a story about the place, not just prove you were there.
1. The Workshop Streets Behind Castello: Via Piccioni and Via dei Genovesi
Following the Footsteps of Sardinian Ceramicists
The hilltop district of Castello is where most tourists spend their time, snapping photos of the Bastione di Saint Remy and ducking into the old cathedral. But if you walk downhill from the Torre di San Pancrazio along Via Piccioni, you start noticing something different. Small ateliers occupy ground floors of medieval houses, and signs in Italian, not English, hang above the doors.
Via dei Genovesi, running parallel to the eastern edge of the walled city, has a cluster of independent ceramic workshops that have been producing hand-painted Sardinian pottery for generations. The patterns here feature the island's traditional motifs: stylized wheat sheaves, geometric symbols borrowed from the Nuragic civilization, and the famous Sardinian masks from Mamuthones and Issohadores that appear in the carnival traditions of Mamoiada.
What to actually buy: Look for hand-thrown ceramic plates in muted earth tones of terracotta, ochre, and sea green. A single 25-centimeter plate runs between 18 and 40 euros depending on the complexity of the hand-painting. Smaller items like espresso cups with traditional filigree-style painted edges cost around 12 to 15 euros each, far more meaningful than anything in a Via Roma tourist kiosk.
When to go: Weekday mornings before noon. Many artisans close by 1:00 PM for the midday break and do not reopen until 3:30 or 4:00 PM, and some do not reopen at all on Saturdays. Sunday is nearly impossible.
One detail most tourists miss: At the bottom of Via Piccioni near the intersection with Via Giovanni Spano, there is a tiny studio where an elderly artisan sells unfired clay seconds, essentially pieces that did not survive the kiln process perfectly but are beautiful in their own flawed way. They cost a few euros each and look incredible on a shelf. Ask for "le scartate" (the rejects), and you will get a knowing smile.
This connects to Cagliari's broader identity because the city has been a crossroads of Mediterranean trade since Phoenician and Roman times. The ceramic tradition here absorbed Spanish, North African, and Italian mainland influences over centuries, and you can see that layered history in the colors and patterns of every piece. Buying directly from a workshop on these streets keeps that living tradition alive.
The Vibe? Quiet, sun-dappled lanes where the occasional sound of a kiln firing echoes from behind closed doors.
The Bill? Plates 18 to 40 euros, small cups 12 to 15 euros, reject pieces under 5 euros.
The Standout? Watching the artisan paint a traditional Nuragic bulls-horn motif freehand on a plate while you wait.
The Catch? Parking anywhere near this neighborhood is essentially impossible. Take the bus to Largo Carlo Felice and walk uphill from there. Your calves will burn, but that is part of the Cagliari experience.
2. La Lungomare and the Marina District: Seafood, Wine, and Salt
Where Cagliari Meets the Sea
The Marina neighborhood sits at the southwestern edge of the old city, a working waterfront where fishermen still unload their catch and families run trattorias that have been serving bottarga and fregula for decades. The shops here sell local gifts Cagliari visitors tend to overlook because they are not in the obvious tourist corridors.
Via Roma skirts the northern edge of Marina, but the real finds are on the side streets branching south toward the port. Look for small grocers and specialty shops that stock bottarga (cured mullet roe, tastier here than anywhere else on the island), saffron from San Gavino Monreale, and jars of miele di corbezzolo (strawberry tree honey), the bitter honey that Sardinians consider a delicacy.
What to actually buy: A 50-gram pack of grated bottarga costs about 18 to 22 euros. The local saffron, sold in tiny cloth sachets, runs 8 to 12 euros for a gram. Miele di corbezzolo, labeled "miele amaro" (bitter honey), comes in small jars for 10 to 15 euros. All three are lightweight, packable, and make extraordinary food gifts.
When to go: Early morning, ideally on a Tuesday or Wednesday. By Thursday and Friday, the specialty shops start running low on fresh bottarga, and some close early for the weekend.
One detail most tourists miss: There is a tiny shop just off Via Baylle, difficult to find unless someone points it out, that sells hand-harvested sea salt from the Molentargius-Saline Regional Park wetlands on the city's eastern edge. The salt comes in small burlap bags tied with twine. It is slightly moist and tinged pink from the natural algae in the salt pans. A bag costs about 4 euros, and it is one of the most authentic souvenirs Cagliari has to offer because the salt has been harvested in these wetlands continuously since Roman times.
The Marina district connects to Cagliari's identity as a city shaped entirely by its coastline. The Roman settlers chose this spot for the harbor, the Spanish built their fortifications to protect the port access, and the modern city still turns its face toward the sea. Every product sold in these shops, from bottarga to sea salt, is a direct product of the Mediterranean that laps against the city walls.
The Vibe? Salty morning air mixing with the smell of fresh bread from a nearby bakery, shop owners who are happy to explain what bottarga actually is.
The Bill? Bottarga 18 to 22 euros per 50 grams, saffron 8 to 12 euros, sea salt around 4 euros, bitter honey 10 to 15 euros.
Standout? The sea salt in its burlap bag tied with twine, a connection to Cagliari's own backyard wetlands.
The Catch? Bottarga has a strong aroma that will perfume your luggage for days. Double-wrap it in sealed bags before packing, or your entire suitcase will smell like the sea.
3. The Saturday Market at Via Marcello Panzacchi (Erbe di Sardegna)
The Real Pulse of the Island's Food Culture
Cagliari's Erbe di Sardegna market in the Stampace neighborhood is a weekly event where Sardinian producers from across the island bring their goods to the city. The name translates roughly to "Herbs of Sardinia," though the market is far more than herbs. It is the single best place to understand what to buy in Cagliari if you care about authenticity.
Held every Saturday morning, the market spills into the streets around Via Marcello Panzacchi. You will find wild thistle spreads, aged Pecorino Sardo DOP cheese, carasau bread (the famous "carta di musica" flatbread), handmade culurgiones (stuffed pasta pockets unique to the island), and bundles of wild asparagus depending on the season.
What to actually buy: A vacuum-sealed package of culurgiones, the signature Sardinian pasta filled with potato, mint, and pecorino, runs about 8 to 14 euros depending on the size. Carasau bread, once dried properly, travels extremely well and costs roughly 4 to 7 euros for a large package. A wedge of mature Pecorino Sardo DOP, sealed and waxed, is about 10 to 18 euros for a half-kilo piece.
When to go: Saturday mornings starting around 8:00 AM. The market runs until about 2:00 PM, but the best cheeses and specialty items go early. Arriving after 10:30 means you are picking over leftovers.
One detail most tourists miss: One stall, usually near the Via Mazzini end of the market, sells small bottles of mirto liqueur made from myrtle berries harvested in the Supramonte highlands. The bottles are unlabeled and hand-filled, possibly only 200 milliliters each, and cost about 7 euros. Mirto is a Sardinian staple, served after meals as a digestivo, and the homemade version is smoother and more complex than anything commercially bottled. The producer is usually there personally and will offer you a taste from a small plastic cup if you show genuine interest.
The connection to Cagliari is deep here. This market feeds the city. The carasau bread you buy at the stall is the same bread shepherds in the island's interior carry in their saddlebags on multi-day treks. The pecorino tastes the way it does because the sheep graze on the island's wild Mediterranean macchia. Cagliari is the commercial heart where island traditions become accessible.
The Vibe? Crowded, loud, full of Sardinian dialect exchange between vendors and locals who have shopped here for years.
The Bill? Culurgiones 8 to 14 euros, carasau 4 to 7 euros, pecorino 10 to 18 euros, mirto about 7 euros.
The Standout? Trying the aged Pecorino Sardo DOP wedges, some aged over 12 months, with a complexity that rivals any mainland Italian cheese.
The Catch? The market gets very crowded by 10:00 AM, and navigating with a shopping bag requires patience and a certain comfort with being elbows-deep near strangers. Also, you cannot bring fresh pasta through customs in some countries, so check the rules before stocking up on culurgiones for travel.
4. Bottega dell'Artigianato in Stampace: Handmade Jewelry and Textiles
The Workshop Where Design Meets Tradition
Tucked into the narrow streets of the Stampace quarter, below the Castello hill, there are a handful of artisan jewelry and textile shops that represent the best of Cagliari's object-making tradition. One in particular, located along Via Giovanni Battista Tuveri, doubles as a showroom and studio where you can watch the work unfold.
The pieces here draw on themes common in authentic souvenirs Cagliari visitors rarely find in chain shops. Filigree silver work (the tradition of "lacework in metal" brought to the island by Aragonese and Spanish artisans centuries ago), coral jewelry sourced from the Mediterranean waters near Alghero, and hand-woven textiles colored with natural dyes from Sardinian plants.
What to actually buy: A pair of small filigree silver earrings starts around 35 euros. A hand-woven table runner, about 40 by 120 centimeters, in natural wool dyed with walnut hulls and pomegranate, runs between 55 and 90 euros. Coral pendants set in silver, smaller than you might expect given the raw material price, cost 60 to 120 euros.
When to go: Wednesday or Thursday afternoons between 4:00 and 6:00 PM. The jeweler often works in the studio during these hours, and you can commission small custom pieces with a turnaround of a few days if you are staying in Cagliari through the weekend.
One detail most tourists miss: Ask about the "Punt 'e stampu" technique, a specific Sardinian style where silver is pulled into impossibly fine twisted threads and soldered into patterns that look like actual woven cloth. Cagliari has been a center for this technique since at least the 18th century, and very few jewelers outside Sardinia practice it. Seeing it done by hand is worth the visit alone, even if you are not buying.
This is central to Cagliari's character. The Stampace neighborhood is one of the city's oldest quarters, historically home to artisans and craft guilds. Walking these streets, you can feel the weight of centuries of hand labor that shaped the city's physical fabric and aesthetic identity. The workshops that survive here are direct inheritors of that tradition.
The Vibe? Quiet, intimate, the clicking sound of metal tools mixed with the artisan explaining techniques in Sardinian-accented Italian.
The Bill? Filigree earrings from 35 euros, woven runners 55 to 90 euros, coral pendants 60 to 120 euros.
The Standout? Watching the Punt 'e stampu filigree technique in action, silver threads thinner than hair being twisted into air.
The Catch? The shop is not always open on a reliable posted schedule. My advice is to walk past in the late afternoon on Wednesday or Thursday and look for the work light on inside. If it is on, knock. There is no doorbell.
5. The Old Pharmacy of via Università (Farmacia di Cagliari): Herbal Remedies and Perfumery
An Apothecary Window into Sardinian Botanical Knowledge
Just down the hill from Castello along Via Università lies one of Cagliari's most unusual souvenir sources. The Farmacia di Cagliari is not primarily a tourist shop, but it stocks a remarkable range of herbal and botanical products derived from Sardinia's extraordinary biodiversity, which is genuinely unique in the Mediterranean.
Sardinia is one of the world's five Blue Zones, regions where people live longest, and a great deal of that longevity is attributed to the island's wild herbs, plants, and traditional remedies. The pharmacy's apothecary section stocks dried helichrysum (the "immortelle" flower used in essential oils), lavender from the的内部 island, oliastra olive oil soap, and herbal teas made from myrtle, mint, and artichoke.
What to actually buy: A small bottle of helichrysum essential oil, genuine Sardinian origin, costs about 12 to 18 euros. Herbal tea blends in small paper bags run 5 to 9 euros. Olive oil so bars, unwrapped and raw-looking, are about 4 euros each. All lightweight, airline-friendly, and completely unlike anything sold in airport shops.
When to go: Monday through Friday, between 8:30 AM and 1:00 PM or 4:00 and 7:30 PM. The pharmacy closes on weekends, and weekday lunch closures run from 1:00 to 4:00 PM, so plan accordingly.
One detail most tourists miss: Ask the pharmacist about "olio di lentisco," essential oil from the mastic tree. It is almost never advertised but is used traditionally across Sardinia as a digestive, an anti-inflammatory, and even in skin care. A tiny dark-glass bottle costs around 10 euros and is genuinely hard to find outside the island.
The pharmacy connects to Cagliari's long role as the island's capital for health and education. The University of Cagliari's medical and pharmacy school, nearby, has studied the island's native plants for over a century. The city is where traditional Sardinian herbal knowledge meets modern science, and walking out with a bottle of helichrysum oil is carrying a piece of that bridge.
The Vibe? The warm smell of dried herbs mixing with old wood and glass bottles, like stepping back a century.
The Bill? Helichrysum oil 12 to 18 euros, herbal teas 5 to 9 euros, mastic tree oil around 10 euros, olive oil soap 4 euros.
The Standout? The mastic tree essential oil, a truly rare product that connects you to millennia of Sardinian folk medicine.
The Catch? The pharmacy is a functioning medical establishment, and the apothecary section is easy to miss if you are not looking for it. Walk past the prescription counter toward the back left. Also, the labeling on some products is exclusively in Italian, so you may want to translate before buying if ingredient specifics matter to you.
6. IVA Morandelli: Sardinian Fashion with Island Roots
Wearing the Island, Not Just Remembering It
On Via Concezio Pascoli, near the border between the Marina and Stampace neighborhoods, IVA Morandelli is a clothing and accessories boutique that designs pieces specifically inspired by Sardinian textile traditions. This is not a museum shop and not a costume outlet. It is a contemporary fashion atelier that takes authentic patterns, materials, and motifs from Sardinian folk dress and translates them into wearable modern pieces.
The owner designs scarves, shawls, and small leather goods using traditional Sardinian fabric patterns, including the geometric color bands found in historical "strazzata" weaving and the floral motifs that appear on island wedding throws from the Ogliastra region. Many items are made locally or on the island, and the materials are natural, predominantly wool and cotton.
What to actually buy: A hand-dyed cotton scarf with a traditional Sardinian geometric border costs about 28 to 45 euros. A small hand-stitched leather clutch in a soft, vegetable-tanned leather from Sardinian goats runs 55 to 80 euros. Wool shawls in the autumn and winter season range from 70 to 120 euros.
When to go: Tuesday through Saturday, best between 10:00 AM and 12:30 PM when the shop is quiet enough to browse without feeling rushed. Appointments can be arranged for custom sizing or color discussions.
One detail most tourists miss: Ask about the bandiera page, the traditional Sardinian festival dress. IVA Morandelli keeps a small book of photographs and fabric swatches from actual village costumes across the island. If you have a particular region of Sardinia that interested you during your travels, the owner can often point to a motif or color combination specific to that area and explain its significance. This turns a scarf into a deeply personal souvenir tied to a specific place you experienced.
The connection to Cagliari's cultural role is clear. As the capital city of Sardinia, Cagliari has always been where the island's diverse traditions converge. The fashion in this shop represents exactly that convergence: village-level craftsmanship elevated through the lens of a designer who lives in the modern capital.
The Vibe? Modern but warm, with natural light and carefully displayed pieces that feel like art objects.
The Bill? Scarves 28 to 45 euros, leather clutches 55 to 80 euros, wool shawls 70 to 120 euros.
The Standout? The cloth-and-leather combination clutch, which looks understated in a shop window but is the kind of thing people ask you about for years.
The Catch? The shop is small and can feel cramped when there are more than three customers inside. Also, the selection changes seasonally, and popular items sell out. If you see something you love, buy it right away rather than thinking about it overnight.
7. The Charterhouse of San Saturnino and the Bonaria Quarter: Religious Art and Sacred Craft
Where Faith Becomes Artisan Legacy
The Basilica di Bonaria, just outside the old city toward the eastern lagoon, is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Sardinia. The adjacent Charterhouse complex and the surrounding Bonaria neighborhood house several small shops and stalls that sell religious art, handcrafted rosaries, and locally made church vestments that double as extraordinary art objects.
The Bonaria Sanctuary has been a Marian shrine since the 14th century, and the artisan tradition around it reflects centuries of devotion turned into skilled handwork. You will find hand-carved wooden madonnas, wrought-iron candelabras produced by local blacksmiths, and small paintings of the Madonna di Bonaria, the patron saint of Sardinia, rendered in styles ranging from Byzantine to contemporary.
What to actually buy: A small hand-carved olive wood Madonna, about 15 centimeters tall, costs 20 to 35 euros. Wrought-iron candle holders, simple and elegant, run 15 to 28 euros. A rosary made from Sardinian olive wood beads, strung on local cord, is about 8 to 12 euros. A small canvas painting of the Madonna di Bonaria by a local Bonaria artist runs 40 to 90 euros.
When to go: Mid-week, especially on Wednesday mornings when the basilica is open but less crowded than on religious feasts or Sundays. The small artisan stalls near the square in front of the Basilica tend to be set up between 9:00 AM and 1:00 PM.
One detail most tourists miss: Near the entrance to the Charterhouse museum area, there is a stall that occasionally sells small pieces of cork carved into religious figures. Cork is one of Sardinia's most important natural resources, and the tradition of cork carving in the island dates back at least three centuries. A small cork carved Madonna or saint costs 6 to 10 euros, weighs practically nothing, and is one of the most distinctly Sardinian objects you can carry home.
The Bonaria district is essential to understanding Cagliari's identity. The city's name itself may derive from "Santa Igia," a medieval settlement closely tied to Marian worship. The Madonna di Bonaria is the spiritual protector not just of the city but of the entire island, and the artisan traditions here are inseparable from that sacred history.
The Vibe? Quiet, reverent, the occasional church bell and the smell of incense drifting through ironstone archways.
The Bill? Cork religious figures 6 to 10 euros, olive wood Madonna 20 to 35 euros, iron candle holders 15 to 28 euros, paintings 40 to 90 euros.
The Standout? The cork-carved religious figures, an intersection of Sardinia's natural resources and deep spiritual tradition.
The Catch? Some of the stalls near the basilica operate on unpredictable schedules, particularly in the cooler months. If you specifically want the cork carver, go on a Wednesday and be prepared to circle the square once or twice before locating the right stall.
8. Negozio Olio Su Meriacru: Olive Oil from the Heartland
Liquid Gold from the Sardinian Interior
Along Via Vespucci, in the Villanova district northwest of the center, you can find shops that specialize in olive oil from the Sardinian interior, Villanova being historically the agricultural market neighborhood that fed the walled city. One shop in particular, nestled in this area's commercial strip, stocks extra virgin olive oil from producers in the provinces of Oristano, Sassari, and the island's remote Ogliastra region.
Sardinian olive oil is dramatically different from Tuscan or Puglian oils. The native bianca cultivar (also called nera di Oliena) produces oil with a distinctly artichoke and cardamom flavor profile, medium to low bitterness, and a bright green-gold color that almost looks unreal. Many of the oils sold by smaller shops in Cagliari are monovarietal, meaning they come from a single cultivar rather than a blend.
What to actually buy: A 250-milliliter bottle of single-cultivar bianca oil costs 12 to 20 euros. A 500-milliliter blended extra virgin runs 15 to 25 euros. Smaller sample bottles, 100 milliliters, are sometimes available for 6 to 9 euros and are perfect for air travel. The shop also stocks jars of local olive paté in small glass containers, about 5 to 8 euros.
When to go: Any weekday between 9:30 AM and 12:30 PM. The shop is busiest on weekday mornings when Villanova locals are running errands. Wednesday and Thursday afternoons, the owner is often there and will pour extensive tastings if you express interest.
One detail most tourists missed until recently: Ask for oil from the Serri or Fordongianus areas in central Sardinia. These are lesser-known production zones compared to the more famous areas near Alghero or Dorgali, but the oil from Serri in particular has a noticeably peppery finish that serious olive oil people find extraordinary. It is almost never exported outside the island.
This connects deeply to Cagliari because for millennia, the city has been the trading hub where the agricultural products of Sardinia's interior are processed, packaged, and sold. Villanova's market history means that the olive oil shops here are the inheritors of a commercial chain that stretches back to the Roman Empire, when local grain, oil, and wine were shipped from Cagliari's port to markets across the Mediterranean.
The Vibe? Rustic and practical, shelves lined with bottles and jars rather than polished displays.
The Bill? 250ml single cultivar 12 to 20 euros, 500ml blended 15 to 25 euros, sample bottles 6 to 9 euros.
The Standout? Tasting the bianca cultivar and realizing olive oil can taste entirely different from anything you have had.
The Catch? The shop is slightly off the beaten path for most Cagliari visitors, located at the edge of Villanova where tourists rarely wander. It is a 15-minute walk from Piazza Matteotti or a short bus ride. Also, 500ml bottles of oil are heavy for suitcases, so plan your purchases around the 250ml option if packing light is a priority.
When to Go and What to Know
Cagliari's souvenir shops and artisan workshops observe the Italian rhythm of daily life, which means planning your shopping around siesta closures is essential. Most small shops close from 1:00 PM to 3:30 or 4:00 PM. Saturday afternoons are unreliable, and Sundays are nearly a total wash almost everywhere except the large commercial chains on Via Roma, which you should be avoiding anyway.
The best overall plan for serious souvenir shopping is a Wednesday or Thursday. Start early at the Marina district for food specialties, walk up to Stampace for artisan workshops, have lunch in the Marina neighborhood (try fregula with clams at a trattoria near Via Parlamento), and spend the afternoon in Castello and Bonaria.
Budget for more time than you think you need. Cagliari's hilly terrain, narrow one-way streets, and intense midday heat make shopping here slower than in flatter cities. Hydration is not optional. Bring a refillable water bottle and stop at one of the many public drinking fountains (fontanelle) scattered through the old districts. The water is safe and notably cold.
Finally, learn the phrase "Potete incartarlo per favore" (Can you wrap it for travel, please). Shopkeepers here are experienced at fragile-item packing and will often do a better job than you expect for free.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the average cost of a specialty coffee or local tea in Cagliari?
A standard espresso at a bar costs about 1.10 to 1.40 euros at the counter, and a cappuccino runs 1.50 to 2.00 euros. Local herbal teas (tisane) in a packaged format for takeaway purchase run 4 to 9 euros per box depending on the blend and the shop. Specialty items like mirto liqueur servings at a bar are typically 2.50 to 4.00 euros.
Is Cagliari expensive to visit? Give a realistic daily budget breakdown for mid-tier travelers.
For a mid-tier traveler, a realistic daily budget in Cagliari is approximately 80 to 140 euros. This includes accommodation in a clean mid-range hotel or Airbnb for 50 to 80 euros per night, meals totaling 25 to 45 euros (lunch at a trattoria around 12 to 18 euros per person, dinner 15 to 25 euros), local transport 5 to 10 euros, and incidentals or souvenir purchases as desired. Costs rise significantly during the summer peak season of June through August, particularly for accommodation.
How easy is it is to find pure vegetarian, vegan, or plant-based dining options in Cagliari?
Vegetarian options are widely available in Cagliari since traditional Sardinian cuisine is already heavily plant-based. Carasau bread, fresh pasta without meat fillings, grilled vegetables, bean soups, and pecorino cheese are all common. Dedicated vegan restaurants are less numerous, with approximately 4 to 6 in the entire city center, but most mainstream restaurants have vegan-adaptable dishes. Look for "seadas," the classic Sardinian cheese pastry with honey, for an indulgent vegetarian dessert, or grilled artichoke and fava beans as traditional plant-based starters.
Are credit cards widely accepted across Cagliari, or is it necessary to carry cash for daily expenses?
Credit cards are accepted at virtually all restaurants, hotels, and larger shops in Cagliari. However, many small artisan workshops, the Saturday market in Streetace, family-run grocery stalls, and some taxi drivers operate on a cash-only basis or have minimum card charges of 10 to 15 euros. Carrying 40 to 60 euros in cash per day ensures you will not miss a purchase at smaller vendors. ATMs (bancomat) are located throughout the city center, particularly along Via Roma and Largo Carlo Felice.
What is the standard tipping etiquette or service charge policy at restaurants in Cagliari?
Tipping in Cagliari is not obligatory, as most restaurants include a "coperto" cover charge of 1.50 to 3.00 euros per person in the bill, which functions as a service fee. For good service, rounding up the bill or leaving an additional 5 to 10 percent is appreciated but not expected. At coffee bars, leaving small change (20 to 50 cents) in the tip tray is customary but entirely at your discretion. It is also common for restaurants to explicitly state "servizio incluso" on the final receipt.
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