Best Walking Paths and Streets in Bergamo to Explore on Foot
Words by
Sofia Esposito
Starting at the Bottom: Viale Vittorio Emanuele II and the Ascent to Città Alta
I walked Viale Vittorio Emanuele II last Tuesday morning around nine, when the light was still soft and the shops were just unlocking their grates. This broad boulevard marks the beginning of the transition from Città Bassa to Città Alta, and it is one of the most underrated walking paths in Bergamo for understanding how the city breathes across its two distinct levels. The arcades lined with Art Nouveau facades give way halfway up to the monumental Funicolare station, where a five-minute ride will whisk you upward, though I always recommend walking the Via Fontana instead for the full experience. The street carries a certain grandeur that reflects Bergamo's 19th-century ambitions, when this was the entry point for visitors arriving by train. Cafes along the median offer decent espresso, but head to Pasticceria Salentiny near the bottom for a fetta milanese, a slice of almond paste cake that tourists sleep on in favor of tiramisu.
The secret most visitors miss is that the Viale has a subtle incline that is easy to overlook, and by the time you reach the funicular station, your legs will already be warm for the steeper climb ahead. I like to stop at the small bookstalls that set up near the lower funicular entrance on weekday mornings, run by retired teachers who have stories about every stone in this city.
The Venetian Walls: Mura Venete and the Ring Walk
The Mura Venete, those remarkable 16th-century Venetian walls that encircle Città Alta, offer one of the finest scenic walks in Bergamo if you approach them correctly. The southern stretch, starting from Porta San Giacomo and heading east toward Porta Sant'Alessandro, gives you uninterrupted views of the Orobic Alps on clear days, with the flat Po Valley spreading out below like a pale ocean. The walls are 6.2 kilometers in circumference, though you do not need to walk the entire ring to get a feel for them. I usually start at the Parco della Rimembranza, where the ramparts are wide enough to feel safe and the crowds thin out considerably after two in the afternoon. Wild rosemary grows along the northern section, filling the air with a fragrance that changes depending on whether the tramontana wind has blown through overnight.
The best time to walk the walls is late afternoon in October, when the tourist season has quieted and the low autumn sun turns the stone honey-colored. You can enter the wall walkway from multiple points, and the ticket booth at Porta San Giacomo charges eight euros for a full circuit, but the section between San Giacomo and Sant'Agostino is free and just as spectacular for a shorter stroll.
Via Pignolo: Bergamo's Grand Residential Street
Via Pignolo runs north from the Accademia Carrara gallery toward Città Alta, and it represents the kind of street that walking tours of Bergamo often rush through because it does not have obvious monuments. That is a mistake. This was historically where Bergamo's wealthiest families built their palaces, and the facades tell you exactly which ones came from Venice, which ones tried to imitate Venice, and which ones failed entirely. Palazzo Agliardi on the right side has a frescoed loggia that is open to the public on Saturday mornings, and the caretaker will let you climb to the second floor if you ask nicely in Italian. The street climbs gently but consistently for about eight hundred meters, passing the Church of San Alessandro, where a small altarpiece by Previtali hides behind the main Baroque clutter.
What nobody tells you is that Via Pignolo catches the morning light beautifully from the south, making it ideal for a sunrise walk when the shadows are still long and the delivery trucks have not yet blocked the sidewalks. By eleven on weekends, the parked cars along the narrow sections become genuinely problematic, and the magic dissipates. I like to grab a cornetto from Panetteria Milesi on the corner of Via San Giacomo and bring it with me to eat on a bench near the Colleoni Chapel, where the acoustics carry the sounds of the bakery across the piazza.
Città Alta's Heart: Piazza Vecchia and the Surrounding Lanes
Piazza Vecchia is the gravitational center of Città Alta, and approaching it on foot from different directions gives you completely different impressions of the space. Coming down Via Gombito from the western walls, you arrive at the square from above, looking down at the fountain and the Palazzo della Ragione beneath you, which feels appropriately medieval. Approaching from Via San Lorenzo through the narrowest part of the old city, you emerge suddenly into the open piazza and the contrast is almost violent in its suddenness. I walked it both ways last month during the Festival della Montagna, when the square was packed with tents and climbers, and the crowds actually worked, filling the space with an energy it lacks on quiet Wednesday mornings in January.
The square itself is surrounded by architectural layers spanning five centuries, from the Romanesque Cappella Colleoni to the neoclassical Biblioteca Angelo Mai. If you have time for only one stop, climb the Campanone tower at the northern edge, where you pay ten euros to walk the battlement walkway and look down at the exact geometry of the piazza and the streets radiating out from it like spokes from a wheel. The bell inside the tower rings ninety times at ten each evening, a tradition from the medieval days when that was the signal for the city gates to close, and residents knew they had ninety minutes to get home or find a guesthouse.
The common mistake tourists make is arriving by funicular and immediately heading to the main square, missing the lanes that feed into it. I recommend entering Città Alta on foot via the Scaletta di San Lorenzo, the steep stepped path that starts near the Colleoni Chapel and zigzags up through a neighborhood of small workshops and hanging laundry. You arrive at the eastern edge of Piazza Vecchia behind the Biblioteca, and the view of the Palazzo della Ragione first hitting your peripheral vision is something worth engineering deliberately.
The Secret Climb: Scaletta di San Lorenzo
The Scaletta di San Lorenzo is not a secret in the strictest sense, but it is the kind of path that visitors stumble onto by accident rather than by intention. This stepped lane connects the lower city to Città Alta through a series of steep switchbacks that were the main route up before the funicular was built in the 1880s. The lower entrance sits behind a small playground near the intersection of Via San Lorenzo and Via Torre di Landriano, and if you were not looking for it, you would simply walk past. The steps are uneven in places and polished smooth by centuries of feet, so wear shoes with grip and take your time on the descent if you are coming down.
What makes the Scaletta special is the way the street transforms as you climb. The lower section passes through what was once a working-class neighborhood, with metal shutters on ground floors and air conditioning units dripping onto the cobblestones. By the time you reach the middle switchback, the buildings have shifted to older stonework, and at the top, near the entrance to the Città Alta park, you are surrounded by the kind of silence that makes you realize how loud the lower city actually is. The entire climb takes twelve minutes at a reasonable pace, and it deposits you at the northwestern corner of Città Alta, close to the Porto廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊廊
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