Best Hidden Speakeasies in Gili Islands You Need a Tip to Find
Words by
Dewi Rahayu
You will not find neon signs or velvet ropes when you go looking for the best speakeasies in Gili Islands. You will find a warung with a blue tarp out front, a dive shop that locks its front door at 10 p.m., and a family compound where the grandmother pours the strongest arak on the island. The hidden bars Gili Islands are famous for are not designed for tourists. They exist because locals wanted a place to drink without the reggae soundtrack, and because a few expats who arrived in the early 2000s decided that a proper cocktail deserved a door you had to knock on. I have lived on Gili Air for six years, and I have been turned away from more of these places than I have been let in. That is how you know they are real.
The Back Room Behind Scallywags on Gili Trawangan
Scallywags is the kind of beachfront bar where you go for sunset mojitos and a seafood grill, and most people never walk past the storage area behind the main bar. If you ask the right bartender, usually one who has been there more than a year, they will point you toward a narrow corridor that leads to a small back room with mismatched furniture, a single ceiling fan, and a handwritten cocktail menu on a chalkboard. This is the closest thing Gili Trawangan has to a proper underground bar Gili Islands locals whisper about. The room fits maybe 20 people, and it fills up fast on Saturday nights after 11 p.m. when the main bar gets too loud even for the regulars. The drink to order here is their smoked papaya old fashioned, which uses arak that a family in the Gili Trawangan interior distills from coconut sap. It costs around 85,000 rupiah, roughly half what you would pay for a comparable cocktail at one of the tourist-facing bars on the east coast. The room has no air conditioning, and by midnight the heat can be oppressive if you are sitting near the back wall. But the crowd is a mix of long-term expats, dive instructors on their night off, and the occasional local Sasak fisherman who wandered over from the harbor. That mix is what makes it feel like a real secret bar Gili Islands visitors rarely stumble onto by accident. The best night to go is Saturday, but you need to have been to Scallywags at least once during the day so the staff recognizes your face.
The Fisherman's Compound Bar on Gili Air
On Gili Air, the most interesting drinking spot is not on the beach and not on the main ring road. It is inside a family compound about 200 meters inland from the east coast, in the village area south of the main harbor. There is no sign. There is a blue plastic tarp strung between two coconut trees, plastic chairs arranged in a rough circle, and a cooler full of Bintang and arak. The family that runs it is Sasak, and the patriarch, Pak Wayan, has been selling drinks from his home for over a decade. He started because fishermen coming back from night trips needed somewhere warm to land before heading home, and the beach bars were either closed or too expensive. You will not find this place on any map. You find it because someone on a bicycle tells you to walk past the mosque, take the second left after the goat pen, and look for the blue tarp. A small bottle of arak here costs 25,000 rupiah, and a Bintang is 30,000 rupiah. Pak Wayan's wife sometimes cooks fish grilled in banana leaves if you arrive before 9 p.m., and it is some of the best food on the island. The compound has no Wi-Fi, no music except whatever is playing from a small Bluetooth speaker, and no English menu. This is the hidden bars Gili Islands experience at its most raw. Go on a Tuesday or Wednesday night when the island is quieter and Pak Wayan has time to sit and talk. Avoid weekends when the compound fills up with local families and there is barely room to stand.
The Dive Shop Lock-In on Gili Meno
Gili Meno is the quietest of the three islands, and its nightlife reflects that. But there is a small dive shop on the west coast, about a five-minute walk south from the main jetty, that transforms after hours. During the day, it operates as a standard PADI shop offering fun dives and open water courses. After the last customer leaves, usually around 9:30 p.m., the owner locks the front door, pulls down a bamboo screen, and opens a small bar in the back room that seats maybe 12 people. The owner is a German expat who has lived on Gili Meno for 14 years, and he stocks a small selection of imported spirits that you cannot find anywhere else on the island, including a German schnapps that he brings back from trips to Lombok. The underground bar Gili Islands crowd on Meno is tiny, maybe 30 people in total who know about this place, and on any given night you might find yourself sharing a table with a marine biologist from the turtle conservation center next door or a yoga instructor from one of the retreats. Drinks are priced between 60,000 and 120,000 rupiah depending on what you order. The back room has a concrete floor, a few cushions, and a poster of a humpback whale on the wall. It is not glamorous. But the owner tells stories about the 2005 coral bleaching event and the time a sea turtle nested directly in front of his shop, and those stories are worth the price of admission. The one drawback is that the owner is not always in the mood to open. If he has had a long day of diving or if he is not feeling social, the shop stays closed. There is no way to know in advance. You just show up and hope.
The Rooftop Above the Main Market on Gili Trawangan
The main market on Gili Trawangan sits along the central east coast road, and most people know it for the fresh fruit stalls and the cheap Padang food warungs that operate during the day. What most people do not know is that one of the market buildings has a rooftop accessible by a wooden staircase on the north side. Upstairs, a local man named Awan has been running a small open-air bar for several years. He sets up a folding table, a few chairs, and a cooler every evening around 6 p.m. and stays open until the last customer leaves, usually around midnight. The view from the rooftop takes in the market below, the beach, and the silhouette of Mount Rinjani on Lombok in the distance. It is one of the best sunset spots on the island, and almost no tourists know about it. Arak is 20,000 rupiah, Bintang is 25,000 rupiah, and Awan will mix a simple rum and Coke for 40,000 rupiah if you ask. This is not a cocktail destination. It is a place to sit with locals, watch the market pack up for the night, and listen to the call to prayer echo across the island. The secret bar Gili Islands regulars love this spot because it feels like drinking on a neighbor's porch. The staircase is rickety and poorly lit, so watch your step if you have been drinking. Go on a Thursday night when the market is busiest and the energy below is at its peak.
The Beach Shack South of Goodheart Resort on Gili Air
South of Goodheart Resort on Gili Air's west coast, there is a small wooden shack that looks like it might collapse in a strong wind. It has a thatched roof, a sand floor, and a hand-painted sign that says "Drinks" in faded red letters. A local woman named Ibu Siti runs it with her teenage son, and they serve Bintang, arak, and sometimes fresh coconut water depending on the season. The shack is not hidden in the speakeasy sense. It is hidden because it looks so uninvident that most people walk right past it assuming it is someone's storage shed. But Ibu Siti has been there for years, and the fishermen who work the west coast know her well. A Bintang costs 25,000 rupiah, and arak is 20,000 rupiah. There is no ice most of the time, which takes some getting used to. The shack has two wooden benches and a small table made from a repurposed boat hull. At sunset, the light coming through the coconut trees behind the shack turns everything gold, and for about 20 minutes it is one of the most beautiful drinking spots in the entire Gili Islands. The hidden bars Gili Islands scene is not all about cocktails and mood lighting. Sometimes it is about sitting on a bench in the sand, drinking warm Bintang, and watching the sky change colors with people who have lived on this island their entire lives. Go between 5 and 6 p.m. for the sunset, and bring cash because there is no card reader and no phone signal strong enough for a transfer.
The Expat Villa Party Circuit on Gili Trawangan
This is not a single venue but a rotating series of private parties held in expat villas scattered across the interior of Gili Trawangan. The locations change every week, and you find out about them through word of mouth, usually at one of the established bars on the east coast after 11 p.m. The parties are organized by a loose collective of long-term residents, many of them dive instructors, yoga teachers, and restaurant managers who have been on the island for five years or more. Each party has a theme, a suggested donation of 50,000 to 100,000 rupiah that goes toward drinks and food, and a guest list that is technically open but practically limited to people who know someone. The underground bar Gili Islands energy is strongest at these parties because they are genuinely private. The villas are usually simple concrete structures with open-air courtyards, and the hosts set up a makeshift bar with whatever spirits have been brought by attendees. The best parties happen during the dry season, from May to September, when the weather is reliable and people are in a celebratory mood. The worst thing about these parties is that they are impossible to find if you are a short-term visitor. You need to spend at least a week on the island, be friendly at the right bars, and let it be known that you are interested. Someone will eventually extend an invitation. I got my first invite after three weeks of showing up at the same beach bar every night and helping the owner carry chairs inside after closing.
The Sasak Home Distillery Trail on Gili Air
This is the deepest you can go into the hidden bars Gili Islands world, and it requires a local guide. In the interior of Gili Air, away from the tourist paths, several Sasak families produce arak in small home distilleries. The production is technically unlicensed, though the local authorities have largely looked the other way for decades because arak is deeply embedded in Sasak culture and ceremony. A guide, usually someone you meet through a homestay owner or a local fisherman, can take you to two or three of these homes in a single evening. Each family has their own method, and the taste varies significantly from house to house. Some arak is smooth and slightly sweet, almost like a young rum. Others are harsh and fiery, with a burn that lingers. The families will usually offer you a glass for free, though it is good manners to leave a contribution of 20,000 to 50,000 rupiah per household. They may also offer you coffee, betel nut, or grilled corn. This is not a bar crawl in any conventional sense. It is a cultural experience, and the families are proud of their product. The best time to go is during the week, Monday through Thursday, when the families are less likely to be occupied with market activities or religious observances. The one thing to be aware of is that home-distilled arak can be significantly stronger than the commercial version sold in shops. Pace yourself. I made the mistake of drinking full glasses at three houses in one row and spent the next morning regretting every decision I had made since arriving on the island.
The Coral Garden Snorkel-to-Bar Pipeline on Gili Meno
On Gili Meno, there is a small bar on the northwest coast that most people associate with snorkeling trips because it sits directly above one of the best coral garden spots on the island. During the day, the bar serves fresh juice and simple food to snorkelers and sunbathers. After 8 p.m., the character shifts. The owner, a Meno local named Pak Lamin, starts selling arak and Bintang to a small crowd of neighbors and the occasional tourist who has wandered too far from the main accommodation strip. The bar has no electricity after 10 p.m., and Pak Lamin lights kerosene lamps that cast a warm glow over the wooden tables. The sound of waves is louder than any music could be. Arak is 20,000 rupiah, and Pak Lamin will sometimes tell you about the time he found a Napoleon wrasse in the coral garden, or how the fish populations have changed since he was a boy. This is the secret bar Gili Islands visitors dream about finding, the one that feels like it exists outside of time. The drawback is that the bar is a 20-minute walk from most accommodations on Gili Meno, and the path is unpaved and unlit. Bring a flashlight or the torch on your phone. Go on a moonless night if you can, because the stars over the northwest coast are extraordinary when there is no light pollution to compete with them.
When to Go and What to Know
The dry season, from May through September, is the best time to explore the best speakeasies in Gili Islands. The weather is predictable, the seas are calm for island hopping, and the expat community is fully present. During the wet season, from November to March, some of the smaller home-based spots close entirely because the owners are busy with other work or because the paths to their compounds become impassable. Cash is essential. None of the hidden bars Gili Islands has described here accept cards, and the ATMs on all three islands are unreliable. Always carry at least 200,000 rupiah in small bills when you go out. Dress is casual to the point of being irrelevant. No one cares what you wear. But do be respectful when visiting Sasak family compounds, remove your shoes before entering any home, and do not photograph people without asking. The underground bar Gili Islands scene is built on trust and relationships. If you are loud, disrespectful, or entitled, word will spread quickly on these small islands, and doors that were open to you will close.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the tap water in Gili Islands safe to drink, or should travelers strictly rely on filtered water options?
Tap water on all three Gili Islands is not safe for drinking. The islands have no natural freshwater sources and rely on rainwater collection and desalinated water shipped from Lombok. Most accommodations and restaurants use filtered or bottled water for drinking and cooking. Travelers should budget around 15,000 to 25,000 rupiah per day for bottled water, or bring a reusable bottle and refill at the filtered water stations that most homestays and cafes provide for free or for a small donation of 5,000 rupiah.
How easy is it to find pure vegetarian, vegan, or plant-based dining options in Gili Islands?
Vegetarian options are widely available on all three islands, particularly on Gili Air and Gili Trawangan where the expat community has driven demand. Most warungs can prepare a vegetable nasi goreng or gado-gado on request. Fully vegan options are harder to find, maybe 10 to 15 dedicated establishments across all three islands, concentrated on Gili Air's east coast and Gili Trawangan's interior. Gili Meno has the fewest options, with only a handful of cafes offering plant-based meals. Expect to pay 35,000 to 75,000 rupiah for a vegetarian main dish.
Are there are any specific dress codes or cultural etiquettes to keep in mind when visiting local spots in Gili Islands?
The Gili Islands are predominantly Muslim, and local Sasak communities appreciate modest dress outside of beach areas. When visiting family compounds, mosques, or inland villages, cover your shoulders and knees. Swimwear should be reserved for the beach. When entering a Sasak home, remove your shoes at the door. Do not offer alcohol to locals unless they explicitly accept it, and never consume alcohol near a mosque or during Ramadan fasting hours in areas where local families are present. Pointing with your index finger is considered rude. Use your right thumb with fingers folded instead.
What is the one must-try local specialty food or drink that Gili Islands is famous for?
Arak is the definitive local drink across the Gili Islands. It is a distilled spirit made from coconut palm sap, traditionally produced in small batches by Sasak families. The taste ranges from smooth and slightly sweet to sharp and fiery depending on the distiller. It is typically served neat or mixed with water, and costs between 20,000 and 40,000 rupiah per serving at local spots. The food specialty is ikan bakar, grilled fish marinated in turmeric and chili, served with sambal and steamed rice. It is available at most beachside warungs for 40,000 to 80,000 rupiah depending on the fish size.
Is Gili Islands expensive to visit? Give a realistic daily budget breakdown for mid-tier travelers?
A mid-tier daily budget for the Gili Islands ranges from 500,000 to 800,000 rupiah per person, roughly 30 to 50 US dollars. This covers a homestay or budget guesthouse at 150,000 to 250,000 rupiah per night, three meals at local warungs for 100,000 to 150,000 rupiah, bicycle rental at 50,000 rupiah per day, drinks at 50,000 to 100,000 rupiah, and a snorkeling trip or activity at 100,000 to 150,000 rupiah. Fast boat transfers from Bali cost 350,000 to 600,000 rupiah each way. Gili Trawangan is the most expensive of the three islands, while Gili Air and Gili Meno are slightly cheaper for accommodation and food.
Enjoyed this guide? Support the work