Best Walking Paths and Streets in Varkala to Explore on Foot

Photo by  Daniel Pell

17 min read · Varkala, India · walking paths ·

Best Walking Paths and Streets in Varkala to Explore on Foot

AS

Words by

Akshita Sharma

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The cliff-side lanes of Varkala open up best on foot, and over the past few years I have walked almost every meter of the red-laterite paths that stitch this small coastal town together along the Arabian Sea. If you are searching for the best walking paths in Varkala, you will quickly notice that the town rewards slow movement, the kind where you stop for a chai, peer over a wall at a wedding, and find yourself watching fishermen haul in sardines before you realize an hour has passed. This guide covers the streets, beach stretches, and cliff corridors I keep coming back to, with the timing details, complaints, and small insider tips that only come from actually being out there. Bring flat sandals, keep some cash on you, and do not expect a polished European promenade. Varkala is rougher than that, and that is exactly why walking it works so well.

Walking the North Cliff from Black Sand Beach to the Helipad

Start your morning at the northern end of the North Cliff, where the path drops down to Black Sand Beach, locally called Papanasam Beach by most people even though the official name on maps is different. The first kilometer of cliff path is wide, paved in red laterite, and lined on the inland side with guesthouses, ayurvedic massage centers, and the occasional German bakery that has been there longer than half the current owners. I like to walk this stretch between 6:30 and 8:00 AM, when the sun is still low, the surf is calm enough that the fishermen are launching their catamarans, and the only other people around are the ones who actually live here. By 10:00 AM the same stretch turns into a parade of scooter horns and sunscreen vendors.

You will pass the Janardhanaswamy Temple entrance on your left, where the priests sit outside sorting flowers for the morning puja, and you can keep going south past rows of small shops selling yoga pants, thali brass vessels, and silver toe rings. One complaint I have about this stretch is that the cliff edge has very few proper railings past the first 500 meters, and at night it gets genuinely dangerous, especially after the cliffside restaurants wash their floors and the water runs toward the edge. Stay inland after dusk.

The path ends for practical purposes at the helipad viewpoint, where a painted concrete circle sits on a flat patch of ground with 180-degree sea views. Most tour groups stop here for five minutes and turn around. Do not turn around. Walk another 200 meters past the helipad toward the small Durga shrine tucked behind a banyan tree, and you will find one of the quietest sunrise perches on the entire Kerala coast.

Local Insider Tip: "I stop at the small South Indian coffee stall just past the temple gate, ask for a 'black kulukki sarbath' if it is summer, and sit on the low wall opposite. The owner Rajan knows exactly when the first tourist bus arrives from Kollam, and he will tell you when the cliff is about to get crowded."

The South Cliff Promenade and Edava Beach Approach

Most visitors never cross the small concrete bridge over the stream that divides North Cliff from South Cliff, which is a shame because the South Cliff promenade is the most underrated stretch of the best walking paths in Varkala. From the bridge head, you walk another 1.4 kilometers of paved cliff path that is noticeably quieter than the north side. There are fewer restaurants here, more family-run homestays, and the cliff drops more steeply toward the sea, which gives you better unobstructed views.

I usually walk this section in the late afternoon, starting around 4:30 PM, because the light hits the western face of the cliffs and turns the laterite almost orange. The path passes the steps down to Odayam Beach, a smaller cove that most people skip, and continues south toward the fishing village of Edava. The transition is gradual. The boutique cafés of North Cliff give way to concrete houses with drying fish nets, then to small plots where women are sorting rice on woven mats.

If you want a longer scenic walk, Varkala on foot really opens up when you keep going past the official "Varkala Cliff" signs into Edava village itself. The paved road turns to packed red earth, the air starts to smell of dried mackerel, and you can walk all the way to Edava Beach in about 40 minutes from the bridge. Bring water. There are no shops for the last kilometer.

Local Insider Tip: "The small ayurvedic pharmacy just past the bridge, on the inland side, sells fresh kashayam decoctions that the older doctor mixes on the spot. Tell him you want the one for travel fatigue, drink it standing at the counter, and tip the boy who brings the water."

Walking Through Varkala Village and the Maidanam Area

Varkala is more than just the cliff, and the inland village around the Janardhanaswamy Temple is where you get a feel for how this town actually functions outside of tourism. Leave the cliff path at any of the staircases near the temple entrance and walk inland for about 800 meters. You will pass the Government Higher Secondary School, a couple of small tailoring shops that have been there for three generations, and the Varkala Maidanam, a flat open ground used for cricket matches, temple festivals, and political rallies.

The walk through the village is the version of walking tours Varkala that the local guides almost never sell, partly because tourists do not ask for it. I find it more interesting than the cliff on most days. The temples here are small, working places of worship rather than tourist attractions. You will see women carrying brass pots of temple water on their heads, schoolchildren in blue uniforms buying banana fritters from a cart parked near the school gate, and the occasional elderly man walking slowly with a brass walking stick that is older than most of the buildings around him.

Stop at the small Thatu Kada, the wooden handicraft shop on the lane that runs parallel to the temple wall. The owner, Gopan, carves traditional Kerala wooden masks by hand and sells them for a fraction of what the cliffside shops charge. The masks are not souvenirs. Some of them are old stock from temple rituals and have actual turmeric stains on them.

Local Insider Tip: "If you want to see the temple during a real ceremony, ask Gopan when the next Theyyam-adjacent ritual is. Smaller neighborhood shrines in Varkala village run occasional all-night pujas that nobody advertises, and the priests will let you watch quietly from the back if you remove your shoes at the outer gate."

The Papanasam Beach Stretch and Early Morning Fishermen

The best morning walk in Varkala, in my honest opinion, is not on the cliff at all. It is along the sand at Papanasam Beach, starting from the main steps down near the north end and walking south along the tide line for about 1.8 kilometers until the beach curves around and the sand gets darker. You can do this barefoot. The sand is firm at low tide and softens only at the southern end where the Black Sand patches start.

The walk takes about 35 minutes one way if you do not stop. You will stop. Between 5:30 and 7:00 AM, the beach is full of activity that disappears entirely by 9:00 AM. You will see groups of women walking slowly along the water's edge carrying brass pots, which they fill from a specific point on the beach where a small freshwater spring emerges from the sand. This water is considered sacred and is taken to the temple for daily rituals. The fishermen are bringing in the night's catch on catamarans, and if you walk close enough, you will see them sorting pomfret, sardines, and the occasional seer fish into woven baskets.

One small thing most visitors miss: the rock formation about 600 meters south of the main steps. There is a small natural arch carved by the sea that you can walk under at low tide, and inside the arch the waves echo in a way that makes the whole thing feel like a small amphitheater. Do not try this at high tide. The water fills the arch completely and the current gets strong.

Local Insider Tip: "Walk to the rock arch about an hour before low tide, not at low tide itself. The sand is still firm enough to walk on, the fishermen are heading back in, and you get the light from the east hitting the inside of the arch, which is the only time photographs actually work there."

Maadhavam Beach to Anjengo Fort via the Coastal Path

A longer scenic walk in Varkala that most people do not attempt is the coastal route from Maadhavam Beach south toward Anjengo Fort, which sits about 6.5 kilometers from central Varkala. You cannot do the entire stretch on a continuous cliff path like you can along North Cliff. The route breaks into sections. The first 2 kilometers are paved cliff and beach path, then the road cuts inland for about 1.5 kilometers through coconut groves, then the path picks up the coast again near the lighthouse at Anjengo.

This is the walk I do when I want to clear my head. Bring two liters of water per person, start no later than 7:00 AM, and expect the full thing to take about two and a half hours at a comfortable pace. You will see almost no other tourists. The locals you pass are mostly headed to work, either on foot or on bicycles with milk canisters balanced on the rear rack. There is a small Shiva temple about halfway along the inland section, sitting alone in a clearing, with a single neem tree shading the entrance. The priest there lives in a house about 200 meters away and locks the temple between visits.

Anjengo Fort itself is a small 17th-century Portuguese outpost maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. Entry is free, the caretaker will show you around if you ask politely, and there is an old lighthouse you can climb for a view back toward Varkala cliff on a clear day. You can hire an auto back from Anjengo for about 250 to 350 rupees, or you can walk back the way you came, which I have done exactly once and do not recommend in summer.

Local Insider Tip: "Stop at the coconut grove section and ask any of the workers if they will let you tap a fresh tender coconut. Most will, and they will pull one down from the tree themselves. The water is colder and sweeter than anything you will get at the cliff restaurants, and it costs about 20 rupees."

Sivagiri Mutt and the Forest Path Behind the Ashram

About 3 kilometers inland from the cliff, sitting on a low hill, is Sivagiri Mutt, the ashram founded by the social reformer Sree Narayana Guru. The walk up to it is a different kind of scenic walk in Varkala, one that mixes forest, pilgrimage, and a surprising amount of quiet for a town this small. From the main road near Varkala railway station, you can walk up the approach lane for about 1.2 kilometers through coconut and areca palms, passing small roadside stalls selling bananas, palm sugar, and the occasional bunch of fresh betel leaves.

The path is shaded for about 80% of the walk, which makes it the best option on a hot afternoon when the cliff is unbearable. The lane opens out at the ashram gate, and beyond the gate is a larger complex with a meditation hall, a museum dedicated to the Guru, and a viewing point that looks back over Varkala town and the coast. You can climb the small observation tower for a full panoramic view.

The walk down is faster and slightly different. There is a stepped path behind the main complex that takes you through a small wooded area with old banyan trees. It exits near the Sivagiri temple tank, which is usually empty in summer and full during the monsoon. The whole loop, going up the lane and down the steps, is about 3.5 kilometers and feels longer than it is because of the change in elevation.

Local Insider Tip: "The museum inside Sivagiri closes for lunch between 12:30 and 2:00 PM and is closed entirely on Mondays. The viewing tower, however, is always open. Go up, then walk back down through the forest path instead of the lane. The light is better in the late afternoon."

Kurumkali Junction and the Village Lanes of South Varkala

Most tourists never walk past Kurumkali Junction, which sits about 600 meters inland from the South Cliff bridge. From the junction, several small lanes fan out into the older residential parts of Varkala, and these lanes are the closest thing the town has to a real walking neighborhood. The houses are concrete and tile-roofed, the gardens are full of banana plants and hibiscus, and the lanes themselves are too narrow for anything bigger than a scooter.

I walk these lanes when I want to eat somewhere that does not appear in any guidebook. There are at least three small family-run Kerala thali restaurants within a 400-meter radius of the junction, and the one I keep going back to is in a blue-painted house on the second lane east. The owner cooks only what her family is eating that day, which means the menu changes, and the meal costs 80 rupees. You sit on a plastic chair in her living room, eat off a banana leaf, and she brings the food out in three rounds.

The lanes connect, after about 20 minutes of walking, to the small Thiruvambadi Sri Krishna Temple, which is one of the older temples in the area and almost never has tourists in it. The temple pond next to it has steps going down into the water, which is how the locals cool off in the late afternoon. You can also continue past the temple to the edge of the backwaters, where there is a small jetty used by local fishermen.

Local Insider Tip: "If you walk these lanes around 5:30 PM, the kids are getting home from school and the air is full of the smell of someone's dinner being cooked on a wood fire. Follow that smell. The best thali in the area is almost always the house with the most bicycles parked outside."

Varkala Beach Road at Sundown and the Evening Walk Culture

There is an evening walk culture in Varkala that exists almost entirely outside the cliffside tourist bubble, and it happens on Varkala Beach Road, the main road that runs parallel to the cliff about 200 meters inland. Between 5:30 and 7:30 PM, the local population takes over the road for their evening constitutional, and the walk itself becomes the entertainment. Families walk in groups of four or five, holding hands across the road, the men in pressed cotton shirts and the women in saris with the pallu pulled over their heads.

I do this walk most evenings I am in town. You start at any point on Beach Road, walk for 30 minutes in one direction, then turn around. The total out-and-back is about 4 kilometers if you walk from the temple end to Kurumkali Junction and back. There are small tea stalls every 200 meters, and stopping for a cutting chai is part of the ritual. The tea here is made with fresh ginger and is much stronger than the chai served at the cliff cafés.

The complaints section: the road gets dusty in dry months and muddy in the monsoon, and the lighting is poor past 7:30 PM. The scooters also use this road, and not all of them dip their headlights, which is genuinely unsafe. Walk on the inland side of the road after dark, not the cliff side.

Local Insider Tip: "The chai stall at the small temple square near the south entrance to the Janardhanaswamy Temple serves a ginger cardamom chai in a steel glass that is, in my opinion, the best cup of chai in Varkala. The owner closes up around 7:15 PM sharp. Get there before that or you will be drinking from the second-best stall."

When to Go and What to Know Before You Walk

Varkala is walkable year round, but the experience changes dramatically by season. The best months for walking are November through February, when daytime temperatures sit between 28 and 32 degrees Celsius and the humidity is manageable. June through September brings the southwest monsoon, and the cliff paths get slippery, the beach walks become dangerous, and most of the inland lanes flood in heavy rain. March through May is brutally hot, with afternoons regularly hitting 36 to 38 degrees Celsius, so confine walking to early morning and after 4:30 PM.

Wear flat sandals or running shoes with grip. The red laterite gets slick when wet. Do not rely on Google Maps for the inland village lanes. Several of them are not mapped correctly, and the directions will send you into someone's backyard. Ask locals. They will walk you to where you need to go, often personally.

Carry small denomination rupees. Most of the inland shops, chai stalls, and temple donations do not accept cards or UPI reliably, and the ones that do often have apps that fail. Drink bottled water unless you are at a stall where you can see the container being filled from a known source. The freshwater spring at Papanasam Beach is genuinely safe and used by the temple daily.

For walking tours Varkala, the best local guides I have worked with charge between 800 and 1500 rupees for a half-day walk, and the difference between a good guide and a bad one is enormous. Ask the cliffside cafés which guides they trust, or ask at the Kerala Tourism office near the bus stand.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many days are needed to see the major tourist attractions in Varkala without feeling rushed?

Three full days covers the major cliff, beach, and village walks at a comfortable pace, with two days sufficing if you skip the Anjengo Fort trek. Add a fourth day if Sivagiri Mutt, the backwater jetty, and the longer village lanes are priorities, since each requires its own half-day block.

How walkable is the main cultural and dining district of Varkala?

The North Cliff dining strip is fully walkable end to end in about 25 minutes, covering roughly 1.2 kilometers of paved path. The South Cliff extends this by another 1.4 kilometers and is also paved but has fewer restaurants. Varkala village lanes are walkable but not accessible for anyone with serious mobility issues, since several are sloped, uneven, and lack railings.

What is the safest and most reliable way to get around Varkala as a solo traveler?

Walking is the safest option during daylight hours between 6:00 AM and 7:00 PM, covering all cliff, beach, and village routes. For trips outside central Varkala, including to Anjengo Fort, Sivagiri Mutt, or the railway station 4 kilometers away, prepaid auto-rickshaws from the stand near the temple gate charge between 150 and 350 rupees depending on distance.

What is the safest area to book an accommodation or boutique stay in Varkala?

The central North Cliff between the Janardhanaswamy Temple steps and the helipad is the most established area for accommodation, with a high density of guesthouses within a 600-meter walk of restaurants, the beach, and the bus stand. South Cliff, particularly the section between the bridge and Odayam Beach, is quieter and feels safer at night for solo travelers, though there are fewer late-night food options.

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