Best Things to Do in Varkala for First Timers (and Repeat Visitors)

The Cliff, the Coast, and Everything Between Your First-Timer Varkala Travel Guide

I first came to Varkala in 2017, arriving on a late-night bus from Kochi with a single backpack and no plan. I expected a quiet beach town where I could decompress for a few days. What I found instead was a place that rearranged the way I understood Kerala's coastline. Varkala is not just another stretch of sand. It is a geological anomaly, a spiritual site older than most temples in southern India, and a food corridor where the fish on your plate was probably swimming that morning. This Varkala travel guide is drawn from years of returning here, season after season, watching the town shift and staying the same all at once. If you are looking for the best things to do in Varkala as a first-timer, or if you have been before and want to go deeper, these are the places and experiences that stayed with me, with all their beauty and their small, honest imperfections intact.

Walking the Cliff Edge at Papanasam Beach and Varkala Cliff

The dramatic laterite cliff that runs along the western edge of Varkala town is unlike anything else on the Kerala coast. It rises about 10 to 15 meters above the Arabian Sea, and the entire rim has been converted into a narrow strip of cafes, guesthouses, and shops that collectively form what locals simply call "the cliff." Papanasam Beach sits directly below, reachable by descending a set of concrete stairs near the southern end of the cliff road. The name "Papanasam" translates roughly to "destruction of sin," and Hindu legend holds that a dip here absolves you of wrongdoing. I have watched elderly women from Tamil Nadu and backpackers from Israel stand shoulder to shoulder in the same shallow surf, both here for entirely different reasons, both looking out at the same horizon.

The best things to do in Varkala start with simply walking this cliff path from north to south in the early morning, before 7 a.m., before the chai stalls have opened and the day-trippers arrive. The air carries salt and woodsmoke. Fishermen below haul their catches onto flat wooden boats called vallams, and the light turns the sea a pale silver. By midday, the same stretch transforms into a social corridor where you can sit at almost any of the open-air cafes and watch the waves crash directly below you, close enough that mist reaches your table. Bring sunscreen and a hat. The laterite offers almost no shade, and by noon in March or April you will feel it.

One detail most tourists miss is the small shrine behind the main cliff road, tucked between two clothing shops near the midpoint. It is a modest Naga (serpent) shrine, maintained by a local family, and hardly anyone stops there. Lighting a small oil lamp there is a practice recommended by older residents, and the caretaker, an elderly man named Gopalakrishnan, will tell you stories about the cliff's importance in Sanskrit texts if you show genuine interest.

Janardhana Temple: A Thousand-Year Anchor

The Janardhana Swamy Temple, locally called the Janardhana Temple, sits about 1.5 kilometers inland from the cliff and predates almost every structure you will see in modern Varkala. It is believed to be approximately 2,000 years old, making it one of the oldest Vishnu temples in Kerala. The temple's architecture is the traditional Kerala style, a sloping copper roof over a granite base with carved wooden gables, and the inner sanctum is not accessible to non-Hindus. You can, however, walk through the outer courtyard and peer into the pillared mandapa hall where bronze figures of Vishnu in his cosmic form watch over the proceedings.

What makes this temple worth a detour from the cliff is its role in the local imagination. Varkala was once a major stop for Hindu saints and scholars, and the temple was the gravitational center around which everything else grew. Visit in the late evening around 6 p.m. during the regular puja, when the oil lamps are lit and the bell ringing carries through the surrounding lanes. The atmosphere shifts from tourist-transit zone to something older and more grounded. Remove your footwear before entering the outer gate, dress modestly, and do not photograph inside the complex. A practical note: the roads leading to the temple are narrow and clogged with scooter traffic during school hours between 8 and 9 a.m., so time your walk accordingly.

Surfing, Swimming, and the Activities Varkala Does Best

Varkala has become one of India's most accessible surf towns, and the combination of consistent waves, warm water, and affordable instruction makes it a compelling destination for first-time surfers. There are about three or four surf schools operating along Papanasam Beach itself, with boards and wetsuits available on rent for between 500 and 800 rupees per session. The waves are generally gentle during the off-monsoon months from September through March, which is why most beginners find the conditions forgiving.

Beyond surfing, the activities Varkala offers in and around the water include kayaking through the backwaters near Varkala's Kappil Lake area about 8 kilometers north, and stand-up paddleboarding during calmer morning hours near the northern beach stretch behind the cliff. Kappil itself is worth a half-day visit. The lake meets the sea through a narrow channel, and the surrounding coconut plantations give the whole area a distinctly Kuttanad-like atmosphere without the crowds. Rent a bicycle from town, about 200 rupees a day, and ride there along the coastal road. You will pass small toddy shops and women selling tender coconuts by the roadside.

The one honest thing people do not tell you about swimming in Varkala is the current. The Arabian Sea here is not a placid pool. There are strong riptides, particularly at the southern end of the beach near the temple ghat. Always ask the fishermen where it is safe to enter. They know better than any signboard. Locals swim freely because they have learned the rhythm of the water their whole lives. As a visitor, treat it with respect.

Bheeman's Cliffside Café: Where Mornings Begin

Of the dozens of cliff-side restaurants that have come and gone over the years, Bheeman's Café has maintained a quiet consistency that earns it a mention. Located along the main cliff road roughly equidistant between the fishermen's end and the temple end, it serves solid Kerala breakfast. Order the appam with egg curry or the puttu with kadala curry, both hearty and honest South Indian staples priced between 120 and 180 rupees. The open seating faces the sea directly, and you will spend most of your meal staring at the water more than your plate.

The café opens around 7:30 a.m., and the best window is the first hour, when the tables are free and the kitchen is unhurried. By 10 a.m. it fills with groups who wave their menus at waiters, and the pace slows. I usually come alone in the morning, order a Kerala-style filter coffee, and sit with whatever book I have brought. Bheeman's does not try to impress. It just serves good food with a view that most places in the world would charge ten times for. My only reservation: the tables nearest to the edge sometimes wobble on the uneven laterite, and drinks have been known to tip. Ask for an inner table if you are clumsy like me.

Sunset at the Lighthouse and Black Beach

The Varkala Lighthouse, located just behind the beach near the southern end of town, sits inside a compound that charges a nominal entry fee, around 20 rupees for Indian nationals and 50 for foreigners. The light itself is not spectacular as lighthouses go (about 18 meters tall, functional rather than ornate), but the surrounding area offers some of the clearest elevated views of the Arabian Sea coastline. You can see the cliff running northward and the broad sweep of Papanasam curving south toward the temple. The best experiences in Varkala are often these quiet elevated moments, removed from the noise below.

About 2 kilometers north of the lighthouse, accessible via a narrow footpath behind the cliff or by road, lies the stretch locals call Black Beach, named for the dark mineral deposits in the sand. It is less frequented than Papanasam and feels remote in a way that is hard to come by in a town this size. The contrast between the pale golden sand at the main beach and the almost metallic dark grains here is striking in photographs. I stopped here on my second visit and almost missed it entirely because there is no signage. Ask any auto-rickshaw driver for "Black Beach" and they will know exactly where to turn. The entry path is unpaved and can be slippery after rain, so wear sturdy shoes.

The broader character of Varkala is visible from these two vantage points. On one side you have the ancient religious town with its temple and pilgrimage routes. On the other, you have the contemporary backpacker circuit, the surf culture, the Israeli-accented Hebrew on cafe menus, and the yoga shalas. The lighthouse and Black Beach sit between these two worlds, quiet enough to hear only the waves and your own breathing.

Darjeeling Café: A Snack Stop with Unexpected Depth

Tucked into a small lane branching off from the cliff road near the center, Darjeeling Café is one of those spots that looks unremarkable from outside but serves some of the best momos and thukpa in the town. It is run by a family originally from Darjeeling who relocated to Varkala several years ago. The steamed chicken momos cost around 150 rupees for a generous plate, and the thukpa, a Tibetan noodle soup, is warm, gingery, and deeply satisfying, particularly on the rare cool rainy evenings when the temperature drops below 26 degrees Celsius.

What brings me back here regularly, beyond the food, is the family's quiet presence. They remember regulars, remember your usual order, and the owner, Norbu, sometimes brings out extra chutney made from local bird's eye chili without being asked. There is a small rack of second-hand books in the corner, another café tradition in Varkala, and the titles lean toward spiritual autobiography and travel memoir. The space is small, perhaps six or seven tables, and gets crowded during the dinner window between 7 and 8:30 p.m. Come earlier or later for a more relaxed experience. A small gripe: the lighting is dim enough that reading a menu can be an act of guesswork, but this minor inconvenience is offset by the fact that everything on the menu is reliably good.

Anantha Victoria Marthandam Canal and the Inland Backwaters

While most visitors orient themselves entirely around the cliff and the beach, the Anantha Victoria Marthandam Canal, often just called AVM Canal, runs parallel to the coast through Varkala's interior and connects a series of small backwater stretches that see remarkably little tourist traffic. The canal was originally commissioned in the 1860s during the reign of Maharaja Ayilyam Thirunal of Travancore, named after Queen Victoria and members of the royal family, and it was built to enable transport of goods between the northern and southern districts of the old Travancore kingdom.

Today, the canal near Varkala is used mostly by local fishermen and for small-scale agriculture irrigation, but hiring a canoe or a small country boat from one of the landing points near Kallambalam, about 3 kilometers inland from the main town, offers an experience of Varkala that has nothing to do with surfing or sunbathing. The surrounding landscape is pure Kuttanad, rice paddies and coconut groves, with kingfishers and drongos darting between trees. A one-hour boat ride through the canal costs approximately 500 to 800 rupees, and the best time is early morning when the mist has not yet burned off and the water is perfectly still.

This is one of those corners of Varkala that most travel guides skip entirely, and partly that is because it requires a bit of local negotiation to arrange transport. Ask at any of the smaller guesthouses near the bus stand rather than at the cliff-side hotels, and the staff will usually know someone with a boat or a three-wheeler to take you to the water. The canal area connects Varkala to the broader geography of south-central Kerala in a way that the cliff never does. You begin to understand that the town draws its existence from more than just the sea.

Chill Out Lounge: Evening Calm on the Cliff

Chill Out Lounge is a cliff-side bar and restaurant that has occupied its spot overlooking the sea for longer than most of its neighbors, surviving the constant turnover of similarly named establishments. It sits slightly toward the northern end of the cliff, and its rooftop seating, accessed by a narrow staircase, gives a panoramic view that is hard to surpass. The food menu is a mix of North Indian, Continental, and Kerala fare. I recommend the grilled fish, usually kingfish or pomfret depending on the catch, cooked in a banana leaf with a local spice rub. Expect to pay between 350 and 550 rupees for a fish dish, depending on size.

The cocktails are reasonably priced by Kerala standards, between 250 and 400 rupees, and the juice selection is extensive. A fresh watermelon or pineapple juice runs about 100 rupees. Chill Out Lounge fills up heavily between 6 and 8 p.m., particularly if the sunset is dramatic, so arriving early secures the best seat. The rooftop can also get breezy, even cold by Varkala standards, after sunset, and having a light jacket or shawl is sensible between November and January when coastal winds pick up.

One small downside worth mentioning: the rooftop floor, while atmospheric, has a few uneven tiles that could trip someone in a hurry. Watch your step, especially if you have been enjoying the cocktails. Service is friendly but can slow considerably when the place hits full capacity on weekends and holidays.

Varkala's Spa and Ayurveda Experiences

Varkala is dotted with Ayurvedic treatment centers, and the quality varies enormously. After trying several over multiple visits, I can say honestly that the best experiences in Varkala for Ayurveda are not at the places with the flashiest signage along the cliff road. Look instead for the smaller clinics and treatment rooms on the side streets running perpendicular to the cliff, particularly in the lanes behind the main shopping stretch leading from the bus stand to the beach. Veda Ayurveda, located in the interior town area, is one of the more established facilities offering traditional treatments including Abhyanga (full-body oil massage), Shirodhara (a warm oil treatment on the forehead), and Panchakarma purification programs that run from 7 to 21 days.

A single Abhyanga session costs approximately 1,500 to 2,500 rupees and lasts about an hour. Panchakarma programs, which require a consultation first, start around 10,000 rupees for a 7-day package and go up from there. Veda Ayurveda also offers yoga sessions in the early morning, which you can attend independently of any treatment package for a nominal drop-in fee. The yoga sessions run from approximately 6:30 to 8 a.m. in a shaded courtyard.

The broader point about Varkala and Ayurveda is that the town has been a center for traditional healing practices for centuries, long before the current wellness tourism boom. The Janardhana Temple area was historically frequented by sages and scholars who combined spiritual practice with medicinal knowledge. Many of the Ayurvedic families in Varkala trace their practice back several generations, though not every clinic advertising itself as "traditional" has that lineage. Ask specifically about the practitioner's training and lineage, and look for centers associated with recognized Ayurvedic colleges or hospitals rather than those that seem designed purely for tourist spending.

Palolem of the North: The Southern Beach Path

From the southern end of Papanasam Beach, a walking path leads along the base of the cliff past a series of carved-out grottos and smaller beach patches that eventually open up into a more secluded stretch that some visitors call Varkala's answer to Goa's Palolem, though it is considerably smaller. This southern path runs approximately 800 meters to 1 kilometer along the shoreline and is best attempted during low tide, when the rocks and sand patches are exposed enough to walk on.

Once you round the final curve, the energy changes. There are a handful of small beach cafes that appear seasonally, and the crowd thins to a mix of long-term residents, honeymooning couples, and the occasional wandering dog. The view northward, looking back at the cliff, is one of the most photographed perspectives of Varkala for good reason. A tiny, unfenced temple to a local deity sits right at the water's edge here, and the silence is punctuated only by waves. I have never seen this stretch crowded, even in January peak season, though the path to reach it can be rocky and is not suitable for anyone with mobility difficulties.

A Walk Through Varkala's Market Streets

Away from the cliff, running from the KSRTC bus stand toward the temple and the beach, Varkala's market streets are where the daily transactional life of the town unfolds. This is a working town beneath the tourist surface, and the market area is where residents buy fish, vegetables, cloth, jewelry, and everything else. The stretch near the bus stand has a cluster of gold shops, which is common across Kerala but particularly dense here, alongside small stores selling Kerala saris, jasmine flowers, and clay lamps.

A morning walk through this area, ideally between 7 and 9 a.m., reveals the rhythms of daily life more honestly than any curated experience in Varkala can. The fish auction happens early near the small temple pond behind the main market road, and the catch includes everything from seer fish (king mackerel) to tiny anchovies called netholi. The fish is priced by weight on a hanging scale, bargaining is expected but should be respectful, and the entire operation wraps up by 10 a.m. when the heat renders the product suspect.

For food, the small tea shops in this area filter some of the strongest chai I have found anywhere in Kerala. A cup of sugary, milky, cardamom-scented tea costs about 15 to 20 rupees at places where ceiling fans wobble overhead and the proprietor knows everyone's name. Pair it with a banana fry, pazham pori, for another 10 rupees, and you have one of the best and cheapest breakfasts available. These tea shops close by mid-morning, replaced by lunch-serving hotels that serve rice meals (called "meals" across Kerala) on banana leaves for 60 to 100 rupees. The taste of a properly prepared Kerala meal, with its sambar, rasam, avial, and payasam, is one of the great culinary experiences in Varkala that most beach-oriented visitors never discover.

Prema Homestay Area: The Quiet Back Lanes

Behind the cliff road, running in a parallel line about 200 meters inland, is a network of residential lanes where a number of homestays and small guesthouses operate at prices significantly lower than the cliff-front properties. The area around Prema Homestay, which itself is a well-maintained and friendly property, typifies this zone. Nights here are quiet. There is no crashing surf to amplify the wind, no music from bar terraces, just the occasional barking of a dog and the distant murmur of the sea.

Staying in these back lanes gives you a feel for Varkala as a year-round community rather than a seasonal attraction. The streets are shaded by jackfruit and mango trees, neighbors greet you in Malayalam, and the morning soundscape is roosters rather than motorbike horns. Room rates during the off-season from May to September drop sharply, sometimes to as low as 400 to 600 rupees for a clean double room with a bathroom, compared to 1,000 to 3,000 rupees on the cliff during peak months. The trade-off is distance from the sea (a 5 to 7 minute walk) and fewer restaurant options within immediate walking range. For longer stays, this area makes practical and financial sense.

My only caveat about these interior lanes is that some of them are not well lit after dark. The town's street lighting thins out considerably once you move away from the main roads, and carrying a phone flashlight is wise if you are walking home late. I twisted an ankle on an uneven lane near the post office one night and learned to be more careful.

When to Go and What to Know Before You Arrive

Varkala's high season runs from October through March, when the skies are clear, the sea is manageable for swimming, and the town hums with the greatest concentration of visitors. January and February are the busiest, with many European and Israeli tourists filling the cliff road during school holidays. If you prefer a quieter experience, October and early November are arguably the best months, with comfortable temperatures and a post-monsoon freshness to the landscape.

The monsoon season, from June through September, brings heavy rain and rough seas. Swimming is dangerous during this period, and many temporary beach cafes close indefinitely. However, the town's Ayurvedic tradition considers monsoon the ideal time for intensive body treatments, particularly Panchakarma, and several clinics offer discounted packages during this period. Visitors who come during monsoon see a more subdued, introspective Varkala, with lower accommodation prices and almost no crowds at the beach.

Getting to Varkala without a car or booking in advance requires some confidence. The nearest railway station is Varkala Sivagiri, served by trains connecting Thiruvananthapuram (about 50 kilometers south, roughly 90 minutes) and Kollam (about 30 kilometers north, 50 minutes). Auto-rickshaws are the primary mode of local transport and generally charge between 50 and 150 rupees for short trips within town. For inter-city buses, the Varkala KSRTC depot connects to Thiruvananthapuram, Kollam, Kochi (about 5 hours), and Alappuzha (about 3 hours).

Carry cash. While many cliff-side restaurants and larger shops accept card or UPI payment, the market area, fish vendors, small tea shops, and auto-rickshaws operate entirely on cash. There are two or three ATMs in the town center, but they occasionally run out of notes during peak season.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it possible to walk between the main sightseeing spots in Varkala, or is local transport necessary?

The core tourist area, from the cliff road to Papanasam Beach, the market streets near the bus stand, and the Janardhana Temple, is walkable within a radius of roughly 3 kilometers. Most visitors cover these on foot without difficulty, though the laterite cliff road is uneven in parts and the market streets are busy with scooters. If you plan to visit Kappil Lake or the Black Beach area to the north, an auto-rickshaw covering 2 to 3 kilometers costs between 60 and 120 rupees and is recommended, particularly in the heat of the afternoon.

What are the best free or low-cost tourist places in Varkala that are genuinely worth the visit?

The cliff walk along the rim above Papanasam Beach is entirely free and offers the same sea views as any restaurant terrace. The Janardhana Temple outer courtyard is free to enter and warrants 30 to 45 minutes for its architecture and atmosphere. The market streets near the bus stand, the fish auction area, and the small tea shops where a full breakfast costs under 40 rupees all provide authentic local experiences at minimal expense. The lighthouse compound charges a roughly 20 to 50 rupee entry fee and provides one of the few elevated vantage points over the coastline.

Do the most popular attractions in Varkala require advance ticket booking, especially during peak season?

No major attraction in Varkala requires advance ticket booking. The Janardhana Temple, the cliff road, Papanasam Beach, and the lighthouse operate on a walk-in basis. Surf schools, Ayurveda clinics, and boat excursions through the canal can benefit from advance booking during January and February peak period but are generally available on short notice outside those months. Accommodation at cliff-side properties during December and January should be booked at least two to four weeks ahead, as the most desirable rooms fill quickly.

How many days are needed to see the major tourist attractions in Varkala without feeling rushed?

Three full days allow a comfortable pace: one day for the cliff, the beach, and the lighthouse area, one day exploring the market streets, the temple, and the AVM Canal or Kappil Lake region, and one day dedicated to either an Ayurveda treatment, a surf lesson, or a leisurely southern beach walk. Visitors looking to combine Varkala with multi-day Ayurvedic Panchakarma programs or yoga courses typically stay 7 to 14 days. For a quick coastal stop while traveling between Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram, two days is the practical minimum.

What is the safest and most reliable way to get around Varkala as a solo traveler?

Walking is the most reliable option for distances under 2 kilometers within town. Auto-rickshaws are safe, widely available, and can be negotiated for fixed fares between 50 and 150 rupees for most trips within Varkala. For night travel back to interior homestay areas, pre-arranging a ride through your accommodation or saving a trusted driver's phone number is practical, as auto availability drops after 10 p.m. in the back lanes. Rented scooters are available for approximately 300 to 500 rupees per day and give the most flexibility, though the narrow local roads demand confident riding.