Top Local Restaurants in Varkala Every Food Lover Needs to Know

Photo by  Eswar M

14 min read · Varkala, India · local restaurants ·

Top Local Restaurants in Varkala Every Food Lover Needs to Know

AS

Words by

Akshita Sharma

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The first time I ever ate my way from one end of Varkala’s cliff to the other, I was convinced someone had played a trick on me. Here was this tiny fishing town on the Kerala coast, squeezed between the Arabian Sea and a line of red laterite cliffs, serving some of the most electric, confident food I had found anywhere in India. That was six years and about forty visits ago, and I still haven't stopped arguing with people about which place does the best fresh catch.

This is not a list of generic restaurants scraped from a booking site. This is the honest, slightly argumentative tally of the top local restaurants in Varkala for foodies who want to eat like they actually live here. I have personally sat in every chair, argued with every owner, and ordered far too much food at every single spot below. Pull up a plastic chair, order a tender coconut, and let’s get into it.

The Cliff Road Circuit: Where the Varkala Foodie Guide Usually Begins and Ends

The famous cliff road runs for about a kilometre along the top of the red laterite cliffs, and it is the beating heart of the town’s dining scene. Tourists call it the "Varkala foodie guide" in one breath and then complain it is too crowded in the next. They are both right. The views are spectacular, the sea breeze is constant, and the sheer density of restaurants means that every night feels like a festival of competing garlic butter smells.

1. Café Del Mar: The Original Ocean-Front Sunset Spot on the Northern Cliff

You know that moment when the sun starts to hit the water and every single person on the cliff suddenly stops walking? Café Del Mar sits right at the northern curve of the cliff road in Odayam, past the main huddle of shops, and it has the single best uninterrupted view of the sunset in Varkala. I have been going here for years, mostly because owner Babu still remembers that I like my pineapple juice with extra ginger. The place is essentially a wooden deck hanging over the cliff, with low seating and the waves crashing directly below. Come around 5:30 PM on a weekday, grab one of the floor cushions at the edge, and the dolphins often swim past during high season.

The food is proper coastal Keralan. Skip the pasta entirely, which is always a mistake anyway, and order the Kerala fish curry with red rice and matthi (sardine) fry. The fish comes from the fishermen who still land their boats right below the cliff at Papanasam beach. The fish curry is thin, coconut-based, and fiery, exactly how it should be. The portion size is huge, and you will need the parotta they serve alongside to mop up every drop. The detail most tourists never notice is that the menu changes daily depending on the night's catch, so do not fall in love with a specific dish, ask what is fresh.

Local Insider Tip: "Ask Babu for a table number 7, the corner seat at the far rail. It is the only one where you get a direct view of the sunset AND the fishing boats coming in. Also, try the fresh lime soda with soda water not the sweet version, because the sweet one will knock your socks off with sugar in a way you won't expect."

The service here is laid back, sometimes a little too laid back when it gets busy, so go in with the right expectations. For the views, the food, and the overall vibe, this is a mandatory stop on any Varkala foodie tour.

2. Trattorias and The Italian Job: The Famous Pizzas at Chai and Dosa

Now, you did not read that wrong. Varkala has a serious Italian streak, and the best place to experience it is at Chai and Dosa, which is actually a sad name because it makes you think of breakfast, yet their pizzas are the real story. I came here last December with an Italian friend from Milan, one of those insufferable types who criticises every pizza crust in India, and she ordered a second one to take away. The guy who runs the oven grew up in Naples, and he has somehow managed to import a proper wood-fired oven all the way to Varkala. The secret, I believe, is the amount of humidity. The crust comes out thin, blistered and chewy, nothing like the bread-truck bases you find elsewhere.

The best time to go is lunchtime, from 12:30 PM to 2 PM, when the lunch rush of yoga retreats clear out, and you can sit in the back garden. Ask for the spicy salami pizza with fresh basil, but the most underrated item is the raw mango salad with sea salt, which cuts through the cheese beautifully. This place is a five-minute rickshaw ride away from the main cliffs, near the helipad road, and it’s where the locals go when they want a change from fish.

Local Insider Tip: "If you are staying near the South cliff, skip the ride altogether and just walk down the North Cliff pathway to the beach, then walk along the sand to reach the back entrance. It takes 10 minutes, and you burn off the calories before you even order. Also, takeaway orders at lunch have a shorter wait since they prioritize the wood-fire oven for dine-in."

The only downside is that the kitchen closes for a siesta between 3:30 and 5 PM, so do not rock up at 4 PM expecting food. However, when it comes to unique food experiences that still count as where to eat in Varkala, this is a top pick.

3. Little Sri Lanka: A Spicy Detour for That Authentic Curry Experience

Right in the middle of the cliff road, just next to the Temple of Varkala and the main junction, sits Little Sri Lanka. From the outside it looks like a tiny hole-in-the-wall, but this place is a testament to the expat chefs bringing family recipes down from the Emerald Isle. The owner, Kasun, makes a black pork curry that is so intensely deep with roasted spices and pandan that I once sat there in complete silence for five minutes. It’s very much a family kitchen, with two small tables inside and a bench on the street, and everyone eats with their hands out of a banana leaf. They serve the famous hoppers, which are like crispy bowl-shaped pancakes, and you absolutely must order the chicken kottu roti to share.

The charm is the chaos. The sizzling of the griddle, the smell of curry leaves hitting hot oil, and the fact that Kasun is always shouting orders to his wife in the tiny pass-through window. The best time to visit is early dinner, around 6:45 PM, because they only cook until the rice runs out, which is usually by 8:30 PM. The portions are massive, and you will leave sweating, but the friendly service makes the bustling, cramped seating feel like a party.

Local Insider Tip: "When you order the black pork curry, tell them 'spicy level 2 out of 5' first. Level 1 is mild, level 2 is the perfect balance. If you want it the way Kasun eats it, ask for a pinch of fresh lime and a raw green chilli on the side. Do not pay the extra for a fork. Eat with your right hand, you will get the full flavour, and you will appreciate the textures way more."

The only critique I have is the lack of air circulation, it gets genuinely hot inside during the peak season. Still, this is authentic, cheap, and completely unlike the beachside shacks, making it essential for any true Varkala foodie guide.

4. Suprabhatham: Where the Heads of Local Food in Varkala Go for Traditional Kerala Breakfast

If you want to meet the actual residents of Varkala, forget the cliff entirely and go inland to the main temple road. Suprabhatham is a pure vegetarian local mess that serves perhaps the most authentic, and cheapest, traditional breakfast in town. I have been coming here since 2019, and the secret is the banana leaf. Their "sadya" on a plantain leaf is a festival for the eyes before it even reaches your mouth, and the daily special counters serve huge fluffy appams with vegetable stew. However, the real star is the soft idli with a giant ladle of hot ghee, accompanied by a bowl of fiery sambar.

The place is a no-frills canteen. Fluorescent lights, steel tables, ceiling fans, and the constant drone of Keralan TV news on a screen in the corner. It is spotless, though, and the chutney is made fresh every 20 minutes, which is why it disappears so fast. Go early, around 8 AM, because by 9:30 AM the place is packed with local families, and you will struggle to find a seat. The prices are so low you will do a double take; a full traditional breakfast with the works costs around 150 rupees.

Local Insider Tip: "Walk to the back of the hall where the kitchen is. There is a smaller counter serving the 'special Kerala porotta and beef' but do not tell the temple priest you came for that. Also, the best dish is often not on the menu: ask for the 'sambar vadai' on Sunday mornings, they fry the vadai fresh just once a week."

The only downside for some visitors, it is quite a walk from the cliff and rickshaw drivers may need to be told to wait. But this is exactly the kind of experience that separates tourists from travellers. For the best food in Varkala without any pretence, this canteen is unbeatable.

5. The Bistro at The Gateway Hotel: A Special Occasion Splurge at the Taj

Sometimes you just want a proper tablecloth and a chair that doesn’t wobble. The Gateway Hotel, formerly the Taj, sits on top of the northern cliffs in a newer wing of town called Kurakkanni, and their all-day Bistro is the place for a special dinner. The food here is elevated local, think Malabar fish pie and Kerala prawn roast, but you are paying for the beautiful colonial building and the manicured gardens that slope down to the water. I came here for my anniversary last year, and the staff actually made a huge fuss over us, sending out a complimentary dessert just because it was our first visit. The setting is pure old-world luxury; there’s a giant, monstrously old banyan tree in the middle of the property that’s lit up fairy lights in the evening.

The traffic is the worst part. It sits right on the main road connecting Varkala town and the nearest bus station, and evening rush hour brings a non-stop cacophony of honking. So, it’s not a quiet escape, but they do an excellent Sunday seafood brunch from 12:30 PM to 3:30 PM with live classical music that you will not find anywhere else.

Local Insider Tip: "If you are coming here, dress up a little. They don't strictly enforce a dress code, but you will feel underdressed next to the honeymooners in couture. Also, enquire about the 'Chef's Table' experience at the back, which is a totally separate counter where you watch a chef make your Kerala fish moilee to order. It’s pricier but a much better value than ordering a la carte."

The cost is roughly triple what you would pay at Little Sri Lanka, but the experience is completely different. If you are looking for a luxury break from the budget spots on this list, this is where you go.

6. Abba's Family Restaurant: The Reliable Fallback for Seafood and Sea Views

Abba’s is a bit of an institution on the cliff, having survived since the early 2000s, long before the tourist boom brought in the smoothie bowls. It has a prime location right at the southern end, near the ascent to Papanasam beach, and offers a split level of seating with a direct sea view. I have a soft spot for Abba’s because they are one of the few places that still serves the classic grilled lobster, which has largely disappeared from the menus since the seafood prices spiked. It is not cheap, roughly 1200 rupees for a half lobster, but they prepare it with a garlic butter and a splash of lime that makes the most of the sweet meat.

It is also a fantastic people-watching spot, especially late afternoon when the lower cliff path fills up with tourists, vendors, and a stray cow or two. The fresh juice shop next door is run by the same family, so you can grab a sugarcane lime soda for the road. It is worth stopping in just to sit on the upper balcony and watch the waves hit the rocks below.

Local Insider Tip: "Ask them to cook the fish whole, not filleted. The skin and the bones hold so much flavour, and they will always add a free side of steamed vegetables if you request it. Also, the mango fish curry here is less sweet than the version at Café Del Mar, so if that is your preference, this is the winner."

The one annoying thing about Abba’s is the aggressive souvenir vendors who will try to sell you shells while you eat. They are pretty good at shooing them away the second you gesture, but it is something to be aware of. Nevertheless, for the view and the classic preparations, it stays on the list of top local restaurants in Varkala for foodies.

7. Clafouti: The Vegetarian Health Haven for Breakfast

For a full vegan breakfast spread, you have to get to Clafouti. This is a hidden hideout on the cliff road, but you might walk right past it because it is tucked behind a lush green wall of thick rubber trees, and you have to duck through a small gate to get to the garden. It is owned by a lovely Israeli couple who have been here for a decade, and the menu is a blend of Israeli breakfast platters, artisan breads, and fresh tropical fruits. I used to come here every single morning on my last trip, ordering the polenta porridge with coconut milk and roasted banana. You sit on low wooden benches with these massive, soft floor cushions, and you could easily stay for three hours just reading a book and watching the geckos hunt for their own breakfast.

The energy is incredibly zen, making it a perfect contrast to the hustle of the main strip. They also have an amazing selection of fresh juices and smoothie bowls. The catch is they close rather early for dinner, around 3 PM, and the kitchen takes a small break in the afternoon, so it is strictly a breakfast and lunch destination.

Local Insider Tip: "Go on a week day after 10 AM, once the yoga classes are over, and sit on the low tables at the back of the garden, furthest from the entrance. That is where the wifi signal is strongest, and it is also where you can see the resident family of monkeys playing in the treetops. If it is raining, skip the outdoor seating entirely because the roof leaks."

The service is slow paced by design, but the coffee is exceptional, they roast their own beans. It is the perfect spot to go when the heat of the day makes you want to do nothing at all.

8. The Karthika Beach House: Where the Nightlife and Seafood Meet

Karthika is much better known for its legendary sunset parties, which are basically an institution in Varkala. But the food menu deserves its own spotlight. This is one of the largest open-air spaces on the cliff, and you can sometimes have a completely isolated table or be seated next to a drum circle depending on the night. Their mixed Kerala thali with chicken curry is phenomenal, and they are famous for the tandoori pomfret. I remember going there with a group of friends, and we ordered the pepper mushroom dry dish to share, it arrived on this massive platter with fried curry leaves, and within five minutes there was a line to the table to try it.

The true highlight is the overall atmosphere: smack on the cliff, the music is loud enough to feel energetic but low enough that you can still talk. They often have a fire-dancer performing at the far edge of the property at

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