Best Vegetarian and Vegan Places in Shillong Worth Visiting

Finding the Best Vegetarian and Vegan Places in Shillong

I have spent the better part of three years walking every major lane and backstreet of Shillong, and I can tell you that the best vegetarian and vegan places in Shillong are not always the ones with the flashiest signage. Some of the most memorable plant based food Shillong has to come from tiny counters tucked behind textile shops or from home kitchens that only open after 2 PM. The Khasi Hills have always had a deep relationship with root vegetables, fermented bamboo, and leafy greens, so meat free eating Shillong style is not a trend here. It is a way of life that predates any modern wellness movement. What I want to share with you is a directory built from actual visits, actual conversations with owners, and actual meals eaten on plastic stools in the rain.

1. Cafe Shillong, Laitumkhrah

I walked into Cafe Shillong on a Tuesday afternoon last month, and the place was half full of college students from NEHU and half full of older couples who clearly come here every week. The interior is simple, almost bare, with wooden tables and a chalkboard menu that changes depending on what the cook felt like making that morning. This is one of the vegan restaurants Shillong locals rely on when they want a proper sit down meal without any fuss. The mushroom and spinach momos are steamed perfectly and arrive with a fiery red chutney that I have never been able to replicate at home. Their vegetable thukpa is thick, peppery, and comes in a bowl large enough to share, though you will not want to. I also tried their banana flower cutlet, which is something I have not seen on any other menu in the city. It is crispy on the outside and has a faintly sweet, earthy flavor that pairs well with the tamarind dip.

Local Insider Tip: "Ask for the off menu banana stem stir fry if you visit after 3 PM. The cook prepares a small batch in the late afternoon using stems sourced from the Laitumkhrah market that morning, and it sells out within an hour. Nobody advertises it, but regulars know to ask."

The only complaint I have is that the service slows to a crawl between 1 PM and 2 PM when the lunch rush hits. If you arrive during that window, expect to wait at least twenty minutes for your order. Still, the food is worth the patience, and the prices are among the most reasonable you will find in this part of town.

2. Miam, Police Bazar

Miam sits on a narrow lane just off the main Police Bazar market road, and I almost walked past it twice before a friend grabbed my arm and pulled me inside. The space is small, maybe eight tables, but the energy is warm and the staff remembers your name after your second visit. This is a place where plant based food Shillong enthusiasts gather because the menu is entirely vegetarian and about half of it can be made vegan on request. I ordered the stuffed paratha with a side of curd and pickle, and the paratha was flaky, generously filled with spiced potato and peas, and clearly made with fresh dough rather than the frozen kind. Their paneer tikka wrap is another standout, grilled until the edges are slightly charred and served in a whole wheat roti with a mint chutney that has a noticeable kick of raw ginger.

Local Insider Tip: "Go on a Sunday morning before 10 AM for the special aloo puri combo that only appears on weekends. The puris are smaller and crispier than the weekday version, and they serve it with a chana curry that uses a slightly different spice blend. Weekday regulars will tell you the Sunday batch is superior."

Miam connects to the character of Police Bazar in the best possible way. This market area has always been a crossroads for traders, students, and families, and Miam reflects that mix. You will see a retired schoolteacher eating alone at one table and a group of teenagers sharing a plate of fries at the next. The noise from the market outside fades once you step through the door, which is a small miracle given how chaotic the bazar gets by noon.

3. Delhi Biryani House, Laitumkhrah

Do not let the name fool you. Delhi Biryani House in Laitumkhrah is one of the most reliable spots for meat free eating Shillong has, and I have been coming here since my first year in the city. The biryani is obviously the headline act, but the vegetarian section of the menu is where I spend most of my time. Their veg biryani is fragrant with whole spices and saffron, and the vegetables are not an afterthought. You get generous portions of cauliflower, green peas, carrots, and paneer layered between the rice. I also recommend the dal makhani, which is slow cooked for hours and has a richness that suggests they use more butter than they probably admit to. The raita served alongside is thick, cooling, and studded with finely chopped cucumber and boondi.

Local Insider Tip: "Order the veg biryani for takeaway rather than eating in. The rice absorbs more flavor over the twenty minute walk home, and the owner packs an extra container of gravy on the side if you ask politely. Dine in portions are generous, but the takeaway version somehow tastes better the next day."

The restaurant is on the first floor of a building that also houses a stationery shop and a mobile repair counter, which is a very Laitumkhrah combination. The stairs are narrow and steep, so watch your step if you are carrying anything. The biryani here is a direct reflection of the North Indian migrant community that has lived in Shillong for decades, and the recipe has been passed down through at least two families that I know of personally.

4. Kitchen of Joy, Polo Bazar

Kitchen of Joy is a small eatery in Polo Bazar that I discovered entirely by accident when I was looking for a pharmacy and smelled something incredible coming from a doorway. The place is run by a family from Bihar who have been in Shillong for over fifteen years, and their vegetarian thali is the kind of meal that makes you forget you ever wanted meat. I visited on a Thursday evening and ordered the special thali, which came with rice, dal, sabzi, roti, papad, pickle, and a small bowl of sweet curd. The sabzi that day was a mixed vegetable preparation with a prominent use of mustard oil, which gave it a pungent, sharp flavor that is distinctly different from the coconut oil based cooking you find in most of the city. Their chole bhature is another item I return to regularly. The bhature are puffed and golden, and the chole has a deep, almost smoky taste that suggests they use a clay pot for the final simmer.

Local Insider Tip: "The family makes a special litti chokha on the first Saturday of every month, and it is not on the regular menu. You have to call the day before to reserve a plate. The littis are stuffed with sattu and roasted over charcoal, and the chokha is made with roasted eggplant and tomato. It sells out by noon."

The location in Polo Bazar means you are surrounded by the energy of one of Shillong's oldest commercial areas. After your meal, you can walk through the bazar and pick up fresh produce, spices, or a new pair of rubber slippers if the monsoon has destroyed your old ones. The eatery itself has no air conditioning, and the ceiling fans do a decent job, but the kitchen heat makes the back tables uncomfortably warm during the summer months.

5. Cafe Shillong Heights, Upper Shillong

Cafe Shillong Heights is perched on a ridge in Upper Shillong, and the view from the outdoor seating area is the kind that makes you put your phone down and just stare. I visited on a clear Saturday morning in October, and I could see the entire valley spread out below with patches of mist still clinging to the lower hills. The menu is a mix of continental and Indian vegetarian dishes, and the portions are large enough to justify the slightly higher prices. I ordered the grilled vegetable panini, which came with a side of sweet potato fries and a small salad. The panini was pressed until the bread was crispy and the vegetables inside were a mix of bell peppers, zucchini, and a creamy cheese spread. Their mushroom soup is another favorite of mine, thick and earthy with a hint of thyme, and it arrives in a bread bowl that you are absolutely meant to eat.

Local Insider Tip: "Sit at the corner table on the left side of the outdoor deck if you want the best view and the most privacy. That table is partially shielded from the wind, which matters more than you think at this altitude. The staff will try to seat you near the entrance, but ask specifically for the corner and they will accommodate you."

The cafe is part of a small complex that includes a boutique and a bookshop, so you can easily spend an entire morning here. The road up to Upper Shillong is winding and narrow, and parking is limited to a small lot that fills up by 11 AM on weekends. If you are driving, arrive before 10 AM or be prepared to park on the roadside and walk a few hundred meters uphill.

6. Sweets and More, Laitumkhrah

Sweets and More is a vegetarian sweet shop and snack counter in Laitumkhrah that I visit at least once a week, sometimes more when my willpower is weak. The shop is small and always crowded, with a glass display case filled with rows of colorful sweets and a hot counter where they prepare fresh snacks throughout the day. I am particularly fond of their paneer pakoras, which are made to order and arrive hot and crispy with a soft, molten center. The batter is lightly spiced with ajwain and chili flakes, and they serve it with a green chutney that has a noticeable amount of raw mango in it during the summer months. Their samosas are another reliable choice, stuffed with a spiced potato and pea filling that is more flavorful than what you get at most other shops in the city.

Local Insider Tip: "Ask for the fresh jalebi that comes out of the fryer around 4 PM. The shop makes a single batch in the late afternoon, and they are at their best when they are still warm and slightly sticky. By 6 PM, they have cooled and hardened, and the texture is completely different. The 4 PM batch is the one locals line up for."

The shop has been in the same location for over a decade, and the owner knows most of his regular customers by name. It is the kind of place where you might end up in a conversation about the weather, the state of the roads, or the latest political news while waiting for your order. The only downside is that the shop has no seating, so you either eat standing at the counter or take your food to go. On rainy days, the awning provides some cover, but you will still get wet if the wind is blowing sideways.

7. The Veggie Table, Nongrim Hills

The Veggie Table in Nongrim Hills is a relatively new addition to the Shillong food scene, but it has quickly become one of my regular spots for meat free eating Shillong style. The restaurant is on the ground floor of a residential building, and the interior is decorated with potted plants and framed photographs of the Khasi Hills. The menu is entirely vegetarian, with a separate section for vegan options that is clearly marked and surprisingly extensive. I ordered the vegan thali on my last visit, and it came with rice, dal, a seasonal vegetable curry, a salad, roti, and a small dessert. The dal was a simple moong dal with a tadka of cumin and curry leaves, and it was the kind of comforting, home style cooking that is hard to find in restaurants. Their vegan chocolate mousse, made with coconut cream and dark chocolate, was rich and smooth and disappeared far too quickly.

Local Insider Tip: "The restaurant sources its vegetables directly from a farm in Mawphlang, about thirty kilometers from the city. If you ask the staff, they can tell you what was harvested that week, and the seasonal vegetable curry changes based on what arrives. The curry is always better when the produce is fresh, which is usually on Tuesdays and Fridays."

The Veggie Table is part of a growing movement in Shillong toward conscious eating and local sourcing, and the owners are vocal about their commitment to supporting Khasi farmers. The restaurant is quiet during weekday lunches but fills up quickly on weekend evenings, so a reservation is advisable if you are planning to visit on a Friday or Saturday night. The tables are spaced well apart, which makes it a good choice if you want a conversation without shouting over your neighbors.

8. Rangdajied United Cafe, Jaiaw

Rangdajied United Cafe in Jaiaw is a community run cafe that I stumbled upon while exploring the neighborhood on a Sunday afternoon. The cafe is attached to a small community center, and the proceeds from the food sales go toward local youth programs, which makes every meal feel like it has a purpose beyond filling your stomach. The menu is simple and entirely vegetarian, with a focus on local ingredients and traditional Khasi preparations. I ordered the jadoh, which is a Khasi rice dish cooked with turmeric and local herbs, and it was served with a side of tungrymbai, a fermented soybean paste that is an acquired taste but deeply satisfying once you get used to it. The jadoh here is lighter and less oily than what I have had at other places, and the turmeric gives it a beautiful golden color. They also serve a simple vegetable soup made with local greens and a hint of ginger, which is perfect for the cold evenings that Shillong is famous for.

Local Insider Tip: "Visit on a Sunday afternoon when the community center hosts a small market in the courtyard. Local women sell homemade pickles, dried fish for non vegetarians, and fresh herbs. You can buy a jar of fermented bamboo shoot pickle to take home, and it pairs perfectly with the jadoh if you order it as a side."

The cafe is a reflection of the strong community spirit that defines Jaiaw and the surrounding neighborhoods. It is not a place you will find on most tourist maps, but it is exactly the kind of spot that gives you a genuine sense of what daily life in Shillong looks like. The seating is basic, with plastic chairs and wooden tables, and the lighting is fluorescent, but the warmth of the people who run it more than compensates for the lack of ambiance.

When to Go and What to Know

Shillong's weather dictates everything, including when and where you eat. The monsoon season, which runs from June to September, means that outdoor seating at places like Cafe Shillong Heights becomes unreliable, and the roads to Upper Shillong can get slippery. Winter, from November to February, is the best time to visit because the skies are clear and the temperatures hover around 10 to 15 degrees Celsius, which makes hot meals feel even more satisfying. Most of the smaller eateries in Police Bazar and Laitumkhrah close by 8 PM, so plan your dinners accordingly. Weekend mornings are the busiest times for cafes, and if you want a quiet experience, aim for weekday afternoons between 2 PM and 4 PM when the lunch crowd has thinned out.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the tap water in Shillong safe to drink, or should travelers strictly rely on filtered water options?

The municipal tap water in Shillong is generally treated, but the aging pipe network in older neighborhoods like Laitumkhrah and Police Bazar can introduce contaminants. Most restaurants and cafes serve filtered or RO treated water, and you should specifically request this rather than accepting tap water. Carrying a reusable bottle and refilling at your hotel or at restaurants with visible filtration systems is the safest approach.

What is the one must-try local specialty food or drink that Shillong is famous for?

Jadoh is the signature rice dish of the Khasi community, cooked with turmeric, local herbs, and sometimes meat, though vegetarian versions are widely available. For a drink, try the local black tea served with milk and sugar at any roadside stall, or the seasonal fruit wines made from pineapple and passion fruit that are sold at small shops in Polo Bazar.

Is Shillong expensive to visit? Give a realistic daily budget breakdown for mid-tier travelers.

A mid-tier traveler can expect to spend between 1,500 and 2,500 Indian rupees per day, including meals at local eateries, shared taxi fares, and entry fees to viewpoints. A full vegetarian thali at a local restaurant costs between 100 and 200 rupees, while a meal at a cafe like Cafe Shillong Heights might run 300 to 500 rupees per person. Budget hotels and guesthouses in Laitumkhrah charge between 800 and 1,500 rupees per night.

How easy is it to find pure vegetarian, vegan, or plant-based dining options in Shillong?

Pure vegetarian dining is widely available across Shillong, with dedicated vegetarian restaurants in Laitumkhrah, Police Bazar, and Polo Bazar. Fully vegan options are less common but growing, with at least three or four restaurants offering clearly marked vegan dishes. Most traditional Khasi vegetarian dishes are naturally free of dairy, though you should always confirm with the staff, as some preparations use butter or curd.

Are there any specific dress codes or cultural etiquettes to keep in mind when visiting local spots in Shillong?

Shillong is relatively relaxed, but modest clothing is appreciated, especially at community run spaces and local eateries. Removing shoes before entering someone's home is expected, and it is polite to greet shop owners and restaurant staff with a simple "khublei" which means thank you in Khasi. Tipping is not mandatory but rounding up the bill or leaving 10 percent is a kind gesture that is increasingly common in cafes.