Best Things to Do in Mysore for First Timers (and Repeat Visitors)
Words by
Anirudh Sharma
First Impressions and the Smell of Jasmine
The first time I landed in Mysore in late October, the air itself announced the city before any landmark did. It was thick with the scent of jasmine from the Devaraja Market stalls, mingled with woodsmoke and diesel from the auto rickshaws crawling along Sayyaji Rao Road. You will notice immediately that the best things to do in Mysore are rarely confined to a single checklist. The city operates on a slower, almost meditative rhythm that rewards lingering over rushing, and the activities Mysore offers range from watching marigold garland makers work at dawn to climbing 800 stone steps to a temple on a hillock that overlooks the entire city. I have lived here, eaten here, and walked these streets in every season, and I still find new corners that surprise you. This Mysore travel guide is built from those accumulated mornings, afterthoughts, and wrong turns that turned out to be the best part of the day.
The Mysore Palace and Its Surrounding Streets at Dawn
Mysore Palace (Sayyaji Rao Road)
The Mysore Palace, officially called the Ambavilas Palace, sits at the center of the city like a court jewel placed deliberately on a velvet cushion. I recommend arriving no later than 7:30 AM on a weekday, because once the tour groups roll in after 9:30, the interior corridors become a bottleneck of selfie sticks and echoing guides. The exterior alone is staggering. It is a mix of Indo-Saracenic, Hindu, and Gothic architecture, and the illumination on Sunday evenings draws thousands of people to the wide road in front. But the interior is where the craftsmanship stops you in your tracks, particularly the rosewood doors inlaid with ivory and the ceiling paintings in the Kalyana Mantapa, which depict the Dussehra processions of the Wodeyar dynasty.
The palace grounds open at 10:00 AM for general visitors, though the sound-and-light show runs later in the evening in Kannada and English. Tickets cost around 200 rupees for adults and less for children. I suggest entering through the main gate on the east side and ignoring the queues on the south side, which tend to be longer because that is where most tourist buses drop off passengers. One thing that catches most visitors off guard is the heat. The palace interior gets stuffy by mid-afternoon, particularly in the Hall of Public Audience. On a weekend in March or April, you will want water and patience in equal measure. The connection to the Wodeyar family is still living. The current royal family retains private quarters, and a deep awareness of that layered history makes the visit feel less like a museum and more like someone's ancestral home opened to a stranger for a few hours.
Sayyaji Rao Road
Sayyaji Rao Road is the commercial spine of Mysore, and it also frames the approach to the palace from the south. The road is lined with shops selling silk sarees, sandalwood products, and freshly roasted groundnuts wrapped in newspaper cones. I have spent hours walking this stretch, often stopping at the old bookshops near the Saraswathipuram end, which hide out-of-print editions on Wodeyar history and local map collections from the 1960s. Early mornings, before 8:00 AM, belong to joggers, flower vendors, and the chai boys pouring sweet milky tea into clay cups you can just throw away on the side of the road. By late afternoon, it transforms into a walking parade of families, students, and office workers heading toward Gandhi Square.
The best time to absorb this street is between 6:00 PM and 8:00 PM when the palace lights go up and the road itself becomes a kind of open-air gallery. Do not drive here during those hours. The traffic is gridlocked, and parking is a nightmare that I have watched consume the patience of even the most seasoned local drivers. If you are staying anywhere within a two-kilometer radius, walk. The experience of Mysore travel guide recommendations is fundamentally tied to the act of walking, and this road rewards that choice. At the corner near the palace entrance, there is a small unmarked stall run by a man named Gundappa. He has been selling banana chips fried in ghee for decades, and his stall opens only from 4:00 PM to 6:00 PM. If you miss that window, you simply missed it. That is the kind of detail no app will tell you.
Devaraja Market and the Fruit Sellers Who Remember Your Face
Devaraja Market (Dhanvantri Road)
Let me be honest. The first time I walked into Devaraja Market as a wide-eyed visitor, I was overwhelmed by the sheer sensory overload. Marigolds in heaps, dried turmeric roots stacked in pyramids, heaps of Kumkum powder in bright reds and yellows, and the constant call of vendors shouting prices in rapid Kannada. It sits just off Dhanvantri Road, a few minutes' walk south of the palace, and remains one of the oldest and most authentic markets in South India. The British-era iron-and-brick structure was built over a century ago, and it still functions with almost no modernization. That is exactly the point. This is where the city shops for festival flowers, temple offerings, household spices, and the beeswax used to make the famous Mysore Mallige, the tiny white jasmine garlands strung together so tightly they look like a rope of snowflakes.
The best time to visit is before 9:00 AM when the flower section is fully stocked and the vegetable growers from nearby villages are still haggling over bulk prices. After 11:00 AM, the heat, the crowds, and the humidity turn the interior into something resembling a warm cave. If you are a photographer, this is your location. The morning light cuts through the gaps in the roof tiles and lands in slanted beams across the turmeric piles, and the flower sellers are surprisingly cooperative if you ask before raising your camera. One thing that most tourists would not know is that the small alley behind the coconut oil vendors on the north side leads to a workshop where artisans still hand-press sandalwood oil using traditional wooden screw presses. The smell alone is worth the detour.
I will plant my complaint here. Visiting the market during the Dussehra season in October is a mistake unless you genuinely enjoy being shoulder-rushed in a space not designed for six visitors abreast. The flower stalls are packed, prices double, and the narrow aisles become impassable for anyone taller than average height. Go in December or January instead. The light is cooler, the crowds are manageable, and the fruit sellers will actually have time to teach you how to pick a ripe Mysore banana versus a Nendran variety. Look for an elderly fruit vendor named Lakshmiamma on the southwest corner of the market. Her papayas are legendary, and if you buy more than two kilos, she will often throw in a handful of edible flowers as a gift. The market is one of those experiences in Mysore that locals take for granted, but it is also the lifeblood of the city's culinary and ritual culture. Every festival you see celebrated in the streets starts here, in these aisles, with the raw materials being carried out in baskets balanced on heads.
Chamundi Hill and the Giant Statue Nobody Talks About
Chamundi Hill (Chamundi Hill Road, 12 kilometers southwest of the city center)
Chamundi Hill rises 3500 feet above sea level and is crowned by the Chamundeshwari Temple, the family deity shrine of the Wodeyar kings. The climb involves over a thousand stone steps, carved into the hillside, with resting platforms spaced unevenly. I prefer doing it on a weekday morning before 8:00 AM to avoid both the heat and the weekend crowds. The panoramic view from the top sweeps across the entire city, the Karanji Lake ribbon in the distance, and a checkerboard of suburban streets that you can almost map from above. The temple itself is ancient, and the inner sanctum hums with a density of devotion that feels genuinely separate from the tourist experience below.
What most people miss is the giant statue of Mahishasura, the buffalo demon, midway up the stairway. It is massive and beautifully detailed, with the ten-armed goddess Chamundeshwari standing triumphantly on his back. Ceremonial flower baskets still pile up at the base of that statue during major festivals. The paved road to the summit also exists for those who prefer to drive, but the old Nandi Bull statue, a monolithic carving halfway up the hill, is best accessed on foot because the car parks are a ten-minute walk away from it. I should warn you about the monkeys. At the step entrances and near the statue corrals, they are aggressive snack thieves. Do not carry anything shiny or visibly edible in your hand when you pass through those zones. Keep your phone and sunglasses inside your bag.
My local tip is to carry a small bottle of buttermilk with a pinch of salt instead of plain water. After that climb, nothing rehydrates faster, and one of the tea stalls at the base sells it for 15 rupees in a disposable cup. Walking back down in the early morning with the sun warming the stone and the city slowly coming into view is one of the experiences in Mysore I return to almost every month. It anchors the entire city geographically and spiritually in a way that no museum plaque can replicate.
St. Philomena's Cathedral and the Colonial Layers of Mysore
St. Philomena's Cathedral (Vicar Road, near Ashoka Circle)
St. Philomena's Cathedral is the largest church in India by some accounts, and its Neo-Gothic twin steeples dominate the northern skyline of Mysore. The architecture was inspired by Cologne Cathedral in Germany, and the stained-glass windows inside depict the life of St. Philomena, a third-century Greek princess whose remains were supposedly found in the catacombs of Rome and brought to Mysore in 1926 by the church's founder, Bishop Rene Feuga. The interior is surprisingly cool even on hot days, and the vaulted ceilings create an acoustic richness that makes the chanting during mass feel like it is echoing from somewhere underground.
Visit in the late afternoon, around 4:30 PM, when the light filtering through the east-facing windows paints the stone floor with color. Sunday services, especially the main English mass at 9:00 AM, draw a large local congregation, and attending one gives you a sense of how Mysore's Christian minority, though small, remains deeply rooted in the city's social fabric. The cathedral compound is well maintained, with manicured lawns that make it a quiet retreat from the traffic of nearby Ashoka Circle. One thing that most tourists would not know is that the crypt beneath the altar allows limited visitation on certain feast days, and it houses a small relic chamber where a portion of St. Philomena's remains are kept. The basement is dim, stone-walled, and feels centuries older than it actually is.
Ashoka Road Vicinity
Ashoka Road and the adjacent stretch through Nazarabad form one of Mysore's most interesting cultural seams because the neighborhood sits between the old city and the newer institutional areas. The street is lined with government offices, old colonial bungalows converted into private residences, and a handful of Iranian-style cafes that serve chai and bun musk with a quiet dignity that suggests they have been doing it since before independence. I always stop at a small bakery near the intersection with New Sayyaji Rao Road for their Mysore Pak, which is better than what you will find in most temple-town sweet shops. The owner uses a slightly higher ghee ratio than standard, and the result is a crumbly, almost fudgy texture that melts before it reaches the back of your throat.
The best time to wander here is mid-morning, between 10:00 AM and 11:30 AM when the offices are still quiet and the streets are still in soft shadow. One detour worth making is the small stretch of stone buildings just east of the circle that once housed the British residency staff. Some of those facades still bear carved plaques from the 1920s, and the front gardens have overgrown mango trees whose branches now droop onto the sidewalk. This is one of those activities Mysore offers that is entirely about slowing down and noticing details instead of checking boxes. I have spent mornings here just reading plaques and watching stray dogs sleep on the warm stone steps of buildings that once mattered to an empire that has long since left the country.
Karanji Lake and the Walk Nobody Plans
Karanji Lake (Vivekananda Nagar)
Karanji Lake is a well-maintained urban wetland and botanical garden in the southwestern part of the city, close to the Mysore Zoo. The lake itself is home to a wide variety of migratory birds, particularly between November and February, when painted storks, spot-billed pelicans, and several species of herons congregate on the small island in the middle. The pathways along its banks are paved and shaded by rain trees that provide genuine relief even in April heat. I walk this loop almost every weekend during the winter months, and it is one of the few spots in Mysore where children, joggers, birdwatchers, and elderly couples all share the same space without any friction.
Walk the full perimeter in the early morning, arriving by 6:30 AM when the gates open. The light on the water is pinkish, the bird calls are loud enough to drown out city noise, and the air smells more like wet earth than exhaust. The walk is roughly three kilometers if you complete the circuit, and it is fully paved, so even walking shoes will do fine. There is a small botanical garden on the far side with labeled trees and a butterfly greenhouse that opens a little later, around 8:30 AM. Entry to the lake area is private and costs 30 to 50 rupees depending on the season, and the butterfly greenhouse has a separate ticket.
My local tip is to bring binoculars if you have them. They make a huge difference in the birding experience near the water's edge. But fair warning. The food stall near the main gate serves terrible coffee and lukewarm samosas that have been sitting since early morning. Buy your snacks from the pushcart outside the Vivekananda Nagar gate before you enter, where a woman named Susheela has been running a puffed-rice and jaggery stall for over fifteen years. The activities Mysore presents around this lake are gentle but deeply satisfying, and they remind you that this city's greatest asset may not be a palace or a temple, but its ability to let you just walk and sit and be present for an entire morning without feeling like you owe someone a ticket.
The Mysore Zoo and Its Unspoken History
Sri Chamarajendra Zoological Gardens (Kasturba Road)
The Chamarajendra Zoological Gardens, commonly known as Mysore Zoo, is the oldest zoo in India, founded in 1892 by the Wodeyar dynasty. It sits just a short walk from Karanji Lake on Kasturba Road, and it remains one of the best-maintained zoological facilities in the country. Lions, tigers, elephants, giraffes, and white rhinoceroses are all housed here, and the enclosures, though not modern by Western standards, are shaded by large trees and kept cleaner than many people expect after reading online reviews. The elephant exhibit is particularly notable because of the zoo's long history with elephants bred and traded within the royal stables, a lineage that stretches back to the era when these animals were central to Mysore's military and ceremonial life.
The best time to visit is in the morning, right after it opens at 8:30 AM when the animals are active and the heat has not yet driven them into their indoor shelters. Adult tickets cost 100 rupees and children pay less. I would discourage visiting on weekends when local families flood the pathways and the viewing areas in front of the big cat enclosures become thick with bodies. Weekdays are quieter, and the keepers tend to be more conversational, sharing details about the animals that are not written on the signs. One thing that most visitors would not know is that the old taxidermy section near the rear of the building contains mounted specimens of animals that were once part of the royal menagerie, including a melanistic leopard that used to belong to Krishnaraja Wadiyar IV himself. It is a small room, poorly lit and rarely visited, and it holds a strange quiet intensity.
My practical advice is to wear a hat and bring water because the walking paths between enclosures are exposed to sun for most of the day. The shaded rest areas are spaced too far apart, and by 11:00 AM in March or April you will feel every bit of it. The parking lot near the main gate is also undersized for the volume of cars on a Saturday, and the attendant will inevitably wave you toward an unpaved shoulder where you will spend an additional ten minutes trying to back out when you leave. Despite these small irritations, the zoo feels honestly maintained and not purely performative. It connects directly to the Wodeyar family's genuine fascination with the natural world, and that historical weight filters into how the institution presents itself today.
Kukkarahalli Lake and the Intellectual Backbone
Kukkarahalli Lake (Kukkarahalli, near University of Mysore Campus)
Kukkarahalli Lake sits near the University of Mysore campus on the western edge of the city, and I consider it the most underrated open space in Mysore. It was originally a reservoir created under the Wodeyar dynasty in the 1860s to supply water to the newly developing city areas. Today, it is a peaceful walking track bordered by wide stone paths, eucalyptus trees, and old ghat-style steps that were once used for ritual bathing. University students, retirees, young couples, and old photographers all come here for the evening walk, and the atmosphere feels more like a slow conversation than a scenic route.
The best time to visit is between 5:30 PM and 7:00 PM when the light on the lake turns golden and the heat has dropped enough to walk comfortably for two continuous hours without shade. The full circuit is about five kilometers, but you do not need to complete it. Staying for half of it along the northern edge will give you enough of the experience. Entry is free, and unlike Karanji Lake, there is no formal gate to manage foot traffic. It is open and democratic, and that is precisely its charm. On the eastern bank, a small unmarked bench sits under a huge banyan tree that has been used as an outdoor seminar spot by University of Mysore professors for decades. If you pass by on a weekday afternoon, you might overhear a doctoral student arguing with a supervisor about colonial policy, all in the open air.
One thing that most visitors do not know is that D.V. Gundappa, one of the greatest Kannada intellectuals and one of the key figures in shaping Mysore's modern cultural consciousness, used to take evening walks here, and some of his philosophical dialogues were composed while pacing these very paths. A small plaque near the northern end of the lake commemorates his contributions, but many local walkers pass it without reading. If you are someone for whom experiences in Mysore need to involve more than visual spectacle, this is a place where the city's intellectual and literary history becomes physically tangible. The lake is also where the local bird population congregates in the early morning, and winter walks often reveal cormorants, weaver birds, and kingfishers that are harder to spot in the city center.
The Agrahara Streets and the Brahmin Quarter Experience
Lakshmipuram and Chamarajapuram Neighborhoods
Lakshmipuram and Chamarajapuram are two of Mysore's oldest residential neighborhoods, located in a ring around the palace and north of Devaraja Market. They were originally planned as "agrahara" settlements, traditional Brahmin quarters where scholars and priests were granted land by the Wodeyar kings. The streets are still lined with classic Mysore-style houses characterized by tiled roofs, small front courtyards, and wooden pillars, and walking through these areas gives you a sense of how ordinary, non-royal life was structured under the single royal family's patronage. Ganapathi Temple lanes, every fourth street seems to end in a temple compound with a bell that rings at irregular intervals throughout the day.
I love coming here for breakfast at a small tiffin house called S. Krishnamurthy in Lakshmipuram near the Ashoka Circle junction. He has a limited menu, with Rava Idli and Benne Dosa being his standouts, and he closes at noon. If you arrive after 9:00 AM, the odds of finding both on the menu are slim. The crowd is entirely local, mostly elderly neighbors, and the interiors have not been renovated since the late 1970s. That is the point. The Mysore travel guide version of town typically skips these neighborhoods because they lack large palaces or famous temples. They reward you with a quieter immersion into the city's residential soul. One thing that most tourists would not know is that the agrahara streets still retain their original survey numbers from the late 19th century, and some of the house plaques near the Ganesh Temple row remain legible. Local historians have written about them, but most walk right past. Spotting them while also smelling incense from an adjoining prayer room feels like walking through a city that remembers its own blueprint.
A small warning about this area is that the streets are narrow and not designed for the volume of two-wheelers that now use them as shortcuts. If you are walking here, keep to the left, stay alert, and for the love of god, do not block a narrow cross-street with your phone camera while photographing a temple pillar. If you do that during morning puja hours, someone will gently remind you in Kannada and you will feel the social heat. The best time to visit is between 6:30 AM and 8:30 AM when the schools are in session, the temples are open, and the shops are serving fresh breakfast. Alternatively, between 4:00 PM and 5:30 PM gives you a golden-hour glow on the old wooden doors and the sound of evening prayers drifting through the streets. These two neighborhoods are, to me, the most essential thing left off standard Mysore itineraries, and nothing that follows in this guide can replace simply walking here and paying attention.
Saraswathipuram and the University Quarter Streets
Saraswathipuram and Its Afternoon Mornings
Saraswathipuram is a well-maintained residential area on the eastern edge of Mysore, known locally as the "University Quarter" because of its proximity to the University of Mysore campus. The streets are lined with old stone bungalows, pensioner-age rain trees, and a quiet pride in academic culture that defines the neighborhood's character. It sits near Kukkarahalli Lake and a handful of smaller temple courtyards, and walking it during soft daylight reveals a Mysore that most guidebooks overlook, one where old scholars still sit on stone porches correcting examination papers by hand. The National Institute of Engineering is also nearby, and the student energy filters into the neighborhood through the mess halls and bakeries along the main road.
The best time to visit Saraswathipuram is between 4:00 PM and 6:00 PM when the afternoon light turns golden overhead and the air carries a scent of jasmine from the temple gardens on the northern side of the quarter. You will also pass by the tea shops of Geetha and Company near the Saraswathipuram Circle, which serve masala chai and goli-soda-spiced buttermilk in small clay cups. The crowd here is small but devoted, and conversation comes easily if you are willing to sit on the low plastic stool they hand you. One thing most tourists would not know is that the old Saraswathipuram Reading Room on the eastern inner lane still maintains a subscription library, with old copies of English dailies from the 1950s kept in glass cases. The librarian has been there since 1986 and remembers every regular by name. A few times a year, visiting scholars from universities across Karnataka come here to consult old Mysore Gazette volumes stored in the back room that no scanner has ever digitized.
Parking along the main Saraswathipuram road gets tricky after 5:00 PM when residents return from work and the street-side space fills up with two-wheelers and the occasional sedan. Walking is infinitely better here anyway. The neighborhood has an unhurried pace that makes you feel, at least for an hour or two, like you belong to this older city. The experiences in Mysore that live in these quieter quarters, away from palace lawns and tourist trails, are ones you keep longest, and they cost almost nothing.
When to Go and What to Know
The best months to experience Mysore are October, November, and December. Temperatures hover between 18°C and 28°C, the light is clear, and Dussehra, Dasara in the local language, cascades through the entire city in a week of royal processions and illuminated streets. If you can plan your visit around the second week of October, you will catch the ten-day Dussehra festival, which crescendos on Vijaya Dashami evening with the Jamboo Savari elephant procession through the palace grounds and central streets. Hotel prices double during this period, and you should book accommodation at least two months in advance.
The worst months are April and May, when temperatures climb above 38°C and outdoor exploration after 10:00 AM becomes genuinely uncomfortable. If you are a heat-sensitive traveler, avoid visiting during those weeks and instead aim for January and February, when the weather is cool, the palm trees are still, and the lakes attract peak-season migratory bird populations. The monsoon season between June and September is not terrible, but heavy downpours occasionally shut down Karanji Lake paths for a day or two, and the markets get muddy and slippery. Carrying a good umbrella and waterproof footwear helps.
A practical note on eating. Rule one is to trust the old tiffin houses over the new "multi-cuisine" cafes sprouting on Sayyaji Rao Road. Rule two is to drink only filtered or bottled water from brands you recognize, and to avoid ice in stalls near market lanes on your first day until your stomach adjusts. Rule three is to carry 100 and 50 rupee notes because small stall vendors often cannot break 500 or 1000 rupee notes, and the resulting delay can frustrate an entire queue. Better to offer exact change and move on with your day.
Prices are still low by Indian metropolitan standards. A full tiffin breakfast, idli, vada, and coffee will cost between 60 and 90 rupees. A palace entry, the city's most expensive ticket, runs 200 rupees. Auto rickshaw fares within the city center typically range from 40 to 80 rupees for short trips, and app-based ride services like Ola are widely available and reliable. Haggling is still expected in local markets but not at restaurants or mall shops. Tipping 5 to 10 percent at sit-down dining spots is appreciated but not mandatory.
Finally, a cultural note. Remove your shoes before entering any temple, ask permission before photographing someone at worship, and avoid eating beef near temple premises or in conversation with local hosts. Mysore is a deeply conservative city in its spiritual practices, and small gestures of respect toward those customs go a long way toward making your time here feel like a genuine bidirectional experience rather than a tourist's one-way observational walk-through.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many days are needed to see the major tourist attractions in Mysore without feeling rushed?
Three full days are the minimum for a relaxed pace that includes the Mysore Palace, Chamundi Hill, Devaraja Market, and the Mysore Zoo without cutting any visit short. Four days allow you to comfortably add Karanji Lake, Kukkarahalli Lake, and the agrahara neighborhood walks described in this guide. Anything beyond five days lets you spend time at the University of Mysore libraries and the lesser-known temple courtyards in Lakshmipuram and Chamarajapuram at a genuinely unhurried rhythm.
Is it possible to walk between the main sightseeing spots in Mysore, or is local transport necessary?
The palace, Devaraja Market, Sayyaji Rao Road, and Ashoka Circle are all within a one-kilometer radius and easily walkable. Chamundi Hill is 12 kilometers southwest and requires an auto rickshaw or a cab ride. Karanji Lake and the zoo sit near each other on the southwestern side and are best reached by a short cab ride from the city center. Kukkarahalli Lake and Saraswathipuram are walkable if you stay near the eastern part of town, but a rickshaw makes more sense if you are coming from the palace area.
What are the best free or low-cost tourist places in Mysore that are genuinely worth the visit?
Kukkarahalli Lake, the agrahara neighborhoods of Lakshmipuram and Chamarajapuram, and the Sayyaji Rao Road palace illumination walk on Sunday evenings are all entirely free. Devaraja Market costs nothing beyond whatever you choose to buy, and the St. Philomena's Cathedral compound is free to walk through. Karanji Lake charges around 30 to 50 rupees for entry, and the Mysore Zoo ticket costs 100 rupees, making both also very budget-friendly by Indian city standards.
Do the most popular attractions in Mysore require advance ticket booking, especially during peak season?
The Mysore Palace does not require advance booking for regular daytime entry, but passes for the sound-and-light show in October, during the tenth day of Dasara, do sell out if not reserved two to three weeks ahead. Chamundi Hill requires no ticket at all. The Mysore Zoo rarely reaches capacity on weekdays but can get crowded on weekends, and tickets are available at the gate with no advance booking needed. Trips during the full Dussehra week, however, should be planned with confirmed hotel and transport bookings well in advance, because the entire city fills up and last-minute accommodation is scarce and expensive.
What is the safest and most reliable way to get around Mysore as a solo traveler?
Auto rickshaws and app-based cabs like Ola are the two most reliable options, and both operate 24 hours a day throughout the city. Autos charge based on a fixed zone system, and the app cabs are metered and tracked, which adds a safety layer, particularly for evening or night travel. The city's main roads are well-lit and generally safe to walk in the early morning and early evening, but the narrower agrahara lanes and streets near the market become crowded and chaotic after 6:00 PM, so solo walkers should stay aware of motorbikes and short-tempered pedestrian traffic in those zones.
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