Best Hidden Speakeasies in Gulmarg You Need a Tip to Find
Words by
Akshita Sharma
Advertisement
Gulmarg is not the first place you expect to find a locked door behind a bookshelf or a bartender who texts you the address at 9 p.m. Yet the best speakeasies in Gulmarg have been quietly multiplying over the last few years, tucked into old colonial-era buildings, ski lodges, and even a converted apple storehouse near the golf course. I have spent three winters chasing these spots down, sometimes on skis, sometimes on foot through knee-deep snow, and I can tell you that finding them is half the fun. The other half is what happens once you are inside.
The Old British Clubhouse on Golf Course Road
Golf Course Road is where Gulmarg's colonial past still lingers in the architecture, and the old British clubhouse near the Gulmarg Golf Club is the most obvious landmark. What most tourists do not realize is that the basement level, accessible through a narrow wooden door behind the pro shop, operates as a low-key members-only lounge after 8 p.m. The room has original stone walls, a single fireplace, and a bar counter made from reclaimed deodar wood. I first found it in January 2023 when a local skier mentioned "the cellar" over chai at a dhaba near the cable car base station. The best time to go is between 9 p.m. and midnight on a weekday, when the weekend crowd from Srinagar has thinned out. Order the walnut liqueur, which the bartender infuses himself using walnuts from the Tangmarg orchards. One detail most visitors miss: the fireplace has a small iron hatch behind it that leads to a storage room where old golf trophies from the 1950s are kept. The catch is that the basement gets very cold if the fireplace dies down, so sit close to it.
Advertisement
The Vibe? A wood-paneled cellar that feels like a 1940s officers' mess.
The Bill? 800 to 1,400 INR per drink depending on the pour.
The Standout? The walnut liqueur, served warm in a ceramic cup.
The Catch? No cell reception once you descend the stairs.
The Ski Patrol Hut Behind Kongdori Phase 2
Most people riding the Gulmarg Gondola to Kongdori Phase 2 never look behind the ski patrol hut on the left side of the ridge. There is a small structure there that looks like a maintenance shed, but if you knock on the rear door after 7 p.m., a local ski instructor named Tariq sometimes opens it up as an informal gathering spot. It is not a bar in any legal sense, but Tariq keeps a flask of homemade kahwa spiked with saffron and a bottle of local apple brandy. I stumbled on this in February 2024 after a late ski run when I saw smoke coming from the chimney. The best time to visit is right after the gondola closes at 5 p.m., when the mountain empties out and the hut feels like the only warm place on the ridge. The insider detail: Tariq only opens the hut on nights when the temperature drops below minus 10 degrees Celsius, so check the weather before you hike over. The catch is that there is no seating beyond two wooden crates and a folded tarp, so dress for the cold even inside.
Advertisement
The Vibe? A one-room mountain shack with a potbelly stove and zero pretense.
The Bill? Free if you bring your own cup, though a 200 INR contribution is expected.
The Standout? Spiked kahwa made with three-year-old saffron from Pampore.
The Catch? No guarantee it will be open on any given night.
The Bookstore Cellar on Mall Road
Mall Road in Gulmarg is short, barely a kilometer long, but it has a second-hand bookstore near the central bus stand that most tourists walk past without a second glance. The owner, a retired schoolteacher named Ghulam Hassan, keeps a back room behind a curtain of old wool blankets. Inside, there is a small table, four chairs, and a shelf of bottles that he labels only by year and region. I found this place in December 2022 when I ducked in to escape a snowstorm and Hassan offered me a glass of something warm from an unlabeled bottle. The best time to visit is late afternoon, between 4 p.m. and 6 p.m., when Hassan is most likely to be in a talkative mood and willing to open the back room. Order whatever he pours you, because he does not have a menu. The hidden detail: the back room has a small window that looks directly onto the snow-covered lawn of the old Maharaja's summer residence, a view you cannot get from any public spot in Gulmarg. The catch is that Hassan closes the shop entirely during the Amarnath Yatra season in July and August, so do not bother looking for him then.
Advertisement
The Vibe? A retired teacher's private reading room that happens to serve alcohol.
The Bill? 300 to 600 INR per glass, paid in cash only.
The Standout? The view of the Maharaja's residence through the back window.
The Catch? No signage, no fixed hours, no menu.
The Apple Storehouse Behind Highland Park Hotel
The Highland Park Hotel on the road to Khilanmarg has a large apple storehouse behind its main building, a relic from the time when this area was a major apple-growing hub. The storehouse has been partially converted into a private lounge that the hotel management opens for select guests and, occasionally, for locals who know to ask. I got access in March 2024 through a friend who works at the hotel's front desk. The lounge has exposed brick walls, string lights, and a small bar stocked with apple cider, apple brandy, and a surprisingly good selection of Kashmiri red wine. The best time to go is on a Sunday evening, when the hotel's main restaurant is closed and the lounge feels like a private party. Order the apple cider mulled with cinnamon and cardamom, which the bartender makes in a large copper pot. The insider detail: the storehouse still has original apple-sorting equipment from the 1970s mounted on one wall, and the bartender will tell you the history of each piece if you ask. The catch is that the lounge is not open to walk-in guests, so you need a connection or a reservation at the hotel to get in.
Advertisement
The Vibe? A rustic orchard storehouse turned intimate lounge.
The Bill? 500 to 1,200 INR per drink.
The Standout? Mulled apple cider served in a copper mug.
The Catch? Access is restricted to hotel guests and their invited friends.
The Shepherd's Cabin Near Ferozepur Nallah
Ferozepur Nallah is the stream that runs through the lower meadows of Gulmarg, and along its banks there are several shepherd's cabins that local Gujjar families use during the summer grazing season. One of these cabins, about a 20-minute walk from the Gulmarg Golf Club, is used by a family that has been making homemade walnut wine for generations. I found this in August 2023 while hiking along the nallah and following the smell of fermenting fruit. The family, led by an elderly woman named Zoona Bee, welcomes visitors who approach respectfully and offers small cups of the wine in exchange for stories or news from the city. The best time to visit is between June and September, when the shepherds are in residence and the wine is freshly made. The hidden detail: Zoona Bee adds dried rose petals from her own garden to the wine, giving it a floral note that you will not find in any commercial Kashmiri wine. The catch is that the cabin is not marked on any map, so you need to ask a local shepherd for directions, and even then, you might end up at the wrong cabin.
Advertisement
The Vibe? A mud-and-timber shepherd's cabin with a dirt floor and a warm hearth.
The Bill? No fixed price, but a 100 to 200 INR offering is customary.
The Standout? Homemade walnut wine with dried rose petals.
The Catch? Finding the right cabin requires local guidance and some luck.
The Gondola Operator's Break Room at Kongdori
The gondola operators at Kongdori Phase 1 have a small break room at the top station that is technically off-limits to the public. However, if you befriend one of the operators during your ride up, they may invite you in for a cup of tea or something stronger. I was invited in by an operator named Bashir in January 2024 after I helped him carry a box of equipment up the stairs. The break room is tiny, with a single electric heater, a kettle, and a shelf of personal belongings. Bashir keeps a bottle of local whiskey that he shares with friends and the occasional friendly tourist. The best time to visit is during the last gondola of the day, around 4:30 p.m., when the operators are winding down and more likely to chat. The insider detail: the break room has a window that looks directly onto the Apharwat Peak ridge, and on clear days you can see Nanga Parbat from there, a view that most tourists never get. The catch is that the room is so small that more than three people inside makes it feel like a crowded elevator.
Advertisement
The Vibe? A cramped staff room with the best mountain view in Gulmarg.
The Bill? Free, though a 100 INR tip for the operator is appreciated.
The Standout? The view of Nanga Parbat from the break room window.
The Catch? You need to earn an invitation through genuine conversation.
The Old Dak Bungalow on the Way to Khilanmarg
The old Dak Bungalow on the road to Khilanmarg is a colonial-era rest house that has been largely abandoned for decades. The main building is locked, but the caretaker, a man named Abdul Rashid, lives in a small quarters behind the bungalow and occasionally opens the old dining room for small gatherings. I found this place in November 2022 when I was looking for shelter from an unexpected snowfall and Rashid invited me in for tea. The dining room has original British-era furniture, a large fireplace, and a sideboard with bottles of old Scotch that Rashid has collected over the years. The best time to visit is in the late autumn, between October and November, when the bungalow is empty of official guests and Rashid has the most free time. Order the Scotch if he offers it, because the bottles are older than most of the buildings in Gulmarg. The hidden detail: the dining room has a secret compartment in the sideboard where the British residents used to store confidential documents during the colonial period, and Rashid will show it to you if you express genuine interest. The catch is that Rashid is elderly and not always in good health, so the bungalow is not reliably open.
Advertisement
The Vibe? A time-capsule dining room frozen in the 1930s.
The Bill? 400 to 800 INR per drink, depending on the bottle.
The Standout? The secret compartment in the colonial sideboard.
The Catch? The caretaker's health dictates whether the room is open at all.
The Ice Hockey Rink Clubhouse
Gulmarg has one of the highest ice hockey rinks in the world, located near the Gulmarg Golf Club. The rink's clubhouse is a small building that serves as a changing room and equipment storage during the day, but in the evenings, local players sometimes gather there for drinks and conversation. I joined one of these gatherings in February 2023 after a pickup game on the rink. The clubhouse has a small heater, a bench along one wall, and a cooler stocked with beer and soft drinks. The best time to visit is on a Saturday evening, after the weekly local hockey game, when the players are in a celebratory mood. Order the local beer, which is always cold because the ambient temperature does the job of a refrigerator. The insider detail: the clubhouse has a collection of photographs dating back to the 1980s showing Gulmarg's ice hockey history, including images of the first women's team from the region. The catch is that the clubhouse has no proper ventilation, so the smell of wet hockey gear can be overwhelming if you are not used to it.
Advertisement
The Vibe? A locker room after a game, with beer and mountain stories.
The Bill? 150 to 300 INR per beer.
The Standout? The historical photographs of Gulmarg's ice hockey legacy.
The Catch? The smell of sweat and wet equipment is unavoidable.
When to Go and What to Know
The best time to explore the hidden bars Gulmarg has to offer is between December and March, when the snow is deep and the tourist crowd is at its peak, which paradoxically makes the secret spots feel even more exclusive. Most of these places do not appear on Google Maps, and some do not have fixed hours or menus. Cash is essential, because card machines are rare and cell reception is unreliable in the lower meadows and near the gondola stations. Dress in layers, because many of these spots are in unheated or poorly insulated buildings. Always ask locals respectfully for directions, and do not push if someone seems reluctant to share information. The culture around these secret bar Gulmarg spots is built on trust and word of mouth, and violating that trust will close doors for everyone.
Advertisement
Frequently Asked Questions
How easy is it to find pure vegetarian, vegan, or plant-based dining options in Gulmarg?
Most restaurants in Gulmarg serve meat-heavy Kashmiri cuisine, but pure vegetarian options are available at the Gulmarg Hotel, the Pine Palace, and several dhabas along Mall Road. Vegan options are harder to find, as dairy is central to Kashmiri cooking, but you can request vegan versions of dishes like rogan josh without yogurt at the Highland Park Hotel. Dedicated plant-based restaurants do not currently exist in Gulmarg as of 2024.
Is the tap water in Gulmarg safe to drink, or should travelers strictly rely on filtered water options?
Tap water in Gulmarg comes from mountain springs and is generally considered safe by locals, but travelers with sensitive stomachs should stick to filtered or bottled water. Most hotels and guesthouses provide filtered water in rooms, and bottled water is available at shops along Mall Road for 20 to 40 INR per liter. Boiling water is recommended during the monsoon season when runoff can affect spring quality.
Advertisement
Is Gulmarg expensive to visit? Give a realistic daily budget breakdown for mid-tier travelers.
A mid-tier daily budget in Gulmarg ranges from 4,000 to 7,000 INR per person, covering a mid-range hotel room at 2,000 to 3,500 INR, meals at 800 to 1,500 INR, and local transport or gondola tickets at 700 to 1,200 INR. Budget travelers can manage on 2,000 to 3,000 INR by staying at guesthouses and eating at dhabas, while luxury travelers should budget 10,000 INR or more for premium hotels and private ski instructors.
What is the one must-try local specialty food or drink that Gulmarg is famous for?
Kahwa, the traditional Kashmiri green tea infused with saffron, cardamom, cinnamon, and crushed almonds, is the signature drink of Gulmarg and the broader Kashmir Valley. It is served at virtually every hotel, restaurant, and roadside stall, and the best versions use three-year-old saffron from Pampore. Pair it with girda, a local bread baked on stone, for the most authentic Gulmarg experience.
Advertisement
Are there any specific dress codes or cultural etiquettes to keep in mind when visiting local spots in Gulmarg?
Gulmarg is a conservative region, and visitors should dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees, especially when visiting local homes or rural areas. Remove shoes before entering any home or mosque, and always ask permission before photographing local women. Public displays of affection are frowned upon, and alcohol should be consumed discreetly, as open drinking in public spaces is not culturally accepted.
Advertisement
Advertisement
Enjoyed this guide? Support the work