Top Museums and Historical Sites in Bikaner That Are Actually Interesting

Photo by  Naveen Dalal

16 min read · Bikaner, India · museums ·

Top Museums and Historical Sites in Bikaner That Are Actually Interesting

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Words by

Shraddha Tripathi

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Bikaner does not get the same attention as Jaipur or Udaipur, and honestly, that is part of its appeal. The top museums in Bikaner sit inside a walled old city built from the same rose-tinted sandstone as Jaisalmer, and the heat, the dust, and the empty lanes between Junagarh Fort and the ramparts make this feel like a place the rest of Rajasthan forgot. Most visitors come for the camel festival, eat at three restaurants, and leave, which is a shame, because the museums here are some of the most quietly fascinating in the state.

I have spent years walking the lanes around Bikaner's old city, sitting in the inner courtyards during siesta hours when the marble floors are cool under bare feet, and chatting up the caretakers who still remember when the maharaja's family used these palaces for weddings. This guide is the one I wish I had on my first visit.

Junagarh Fort and the Anup Mahal Museum

Start at the heart of everything, the Junagarh Fort on Junagarh Fort Road, right where the old city meets the modern bypass. Built in 1589 by Raja Rai Singh, this is the only major fort in Rajasthan that was not constructed on a hilltop, which is the first thing the guides will tell you and the first thing they are proud of. Inside, the Anup Mahal is essentially the palace museum, and it is where you will spend most of your time. The walls are covered in red and gold filigree, the ceilings drip with small mirrors, and there is a particular room where the light comes through carved stone lattice in a way that turns the floor into a chessboard around 4 p.m. in winter.

The collection includes the usual Rajput armour, but the real reason to come is the Pranpratishta of Vishnu in the Lakshmi Narayan Temple inside the fort, a 9th-century black stone idol that predates the fort itself by seven hundred years. Insiders know to ask the guard at the Karan Mahal gate to show you the small brass cannon on the roof terrace called the Kamaniyan, which is said to have been used only once, at the wedding of a prince in 1638. The museum opens at 10 a.m. but the light inside Anup Mahal is best after 2 p.m., when the tour buses have emptied and the marble cools down. One small complaint, the audio guide costs extra and is not particularly good, so hire a human guide at the entrance instead for around 300 rupees.

The Sadul Singh Museum in Lalgarh Palace

A twenty-minute rickshaw ride south of the fort, tucked into the western wing of Lalgarh Palace on Lalgarh Palace Road, sits one of the best galleries Bikaner has to offer. Maharaja Sadul Singh started collecting European paintings, photographs, and personal memorabilia in the 1940s, and the result is a strange and wonderful cross-cultural archive. You will see original watercolours of Venetian canals, sepia photographs of Bikaner taken by British officers in the 1880s, and a room full of silver hunting trophies that the maharaja brought back from his trips to Africa. The interior is a study in Indo-Saracenic excess, with a grand central courtyard where the family used to hold durbar, all peacock blue tilework and Belgian chandeliers.

What most tourists do not realise is that the Bikaner royal family still lives in the eastern wing of Lalgarh Palace, which means the western wing is the only part open to the public and is administered as a state museum. If you walk up to the first floor and ask, the caretakers will sometimes open the small library of original Sadul Singh diaries, which include entries about meetings with Lord Mountbatten. Come on a weekday morning, ideally Tuesday or Wednesday, when the light through the east windows is good for photography and the handful of school groups that visit on weekends are nowhere to be seen. The entry ticket is 50 rupees for Indians and 100 for foreigners, and the grounds include a small garden with resident blackbuck that nobody ever talks about.

The Ganga Government Museum Near Bikaner Junction

Walk or take a short auto from Bikaner Junction railway station and you reach the Ganga Government Museum on Bikaner-Pugal Road, also sometimes called the Sadulpur road, just south of the station. This is the city proper's main archaeology and history museum, and it is one of those quiet government-run institutions that almost nobody outside of academic circles has ever heard of. The collection covers the Indus Valley Civilization finds from Kalibangan, which lies about 130 km away, terracotta figurines from the Harappan phase, and a small but excellent numismatics section covering the Bikaner state coinage from the 16th century onward. There is also a room dedicated to the local Bikaner school of miniature painting, which is a less famous cousin of the Kishangarh and Mewar schools but has its own distinctive vermilion-and-saffron palette.

The biggest draw for me is the display of the 11th-century Jain bronzes recovered from the Parshvanath temple in Lodurva, near Jaisalmer, but transferred to Bikaner because the city's museum has better climate control. Photography is technically not allowed, but the guard at the front desk usually looks the other way if you pay 20 rupees into the donation box. Avoid the first Sunday of the month, when the museum is overrun with families from the cantonment area. Weekday afternoons between 2 and 5 p.m. are empty and quiet, and you can sit in the small reading room and look through the regional archaeology journals that the staff keep on the back shelf.

The Prachina Museum Inside Junagarh Fort

Often confused with the main fort museum, the Prachina Museum is a separate institution housed in the Badal Mahal wing of Junagarh Fort, accessible through a side gate near the Hawa Pol. This is where the royal family of Bikaner showcases their personal collection of textiles, photographs, and ceremonial objects, and it is the only place in Rajasthan that I know of dedicated specifically to the role of women in the history of the Bikaner court. You will see howrani, the heavy bridal odhnis embroidered with gold thread, betel nut holders made of carved ivory, and a room of portraits of the Maharanis of Bikaner from 1589 onward, including one rather striking photograph of Maharani Padmavati Devi in a 1920s European gown.

The textiles are the reason art museums Bikaner enthusiasts make the trip twice. The display rotates, and the curator I spoke to on my last visit, a woman named Usha who has worked there for twenty-two years, told me that they have roughly 1,200 textiles in storage and only rotate 80 at a time to protect them from humidity. One insider tip, the first Saturday of every month they hold a small talk in the courtyard about a specific textile or painting, usually in Hindi but sometimes in English. Check at the entrance. The museum closes from 1 to 2 p.m. for lunch, and the upstairs gallery gets uncomfortably warm by noon, so come early. Entry is included with the main Junagarh Fort ticket, which makes it an obvious add-on.

The Shri Laxminath Temple and the Sand Dunes at the Camel Research Farm

This is not strictly a museum, but bear with me. The National Research Centre on Camels sits about 8 km southeast of the city centre on the Jorbeer road, technically outside Bikaner proper, and it functions as a kind of living museum of the camel breeds that made this city wealthy. The Marwari camel, the Kutchi, and the crossbreeds developed right here at the research centre are still kept on site, and there is a small interpretation gallery that explains the breeding programme, the role of camels in the Bikaner state army (the famous Ganga Risala camel cavalry unit fought in both World Wars), and the trade routes through the Thar that Bikaner controlled for three centuries. The centre also processes camel milk, and there is a small kiosk near the entrance where you can buy camel milk kulfi, which sounds like a gimmick but is genuinely one of the best things I have eaten in Rajasthan.

Combine this with a visit to the Shri Laxminath Temple in the old city, at the corner of Station Road and Rani Bazaar, which is the spiritual heart of Bikaner and has its own small museum of temple artefacts in the basement. I know that sounds unlikely, but the temple trust runs a small gallery of original Bikaner school paintings commissioned by the temple in the 19th century, plus silver palanquin fittings and old puja vessels. The temple itself is worth ten minutes even if you do not go in, just to see the carved marble façade and the small market around it where ladies sell fresh mirchi ka achaar by weight.

The Rampuria Haveli Cluster and the Merchant House Museum

A short walk from the Junagarh Fort along the narrow Binnser Road, the Rampuria Haveli cluster is a row of seven red sandstone havelis built by wealthy merchants in the 18th and 19th centuries. Only one of them, the Bhanwar Niwas Haveli at the eastern end, operates as a museum, but it is one of the most underappreciated history museums Bikaner has to offer. The merchant family that built it became wealthy trading in wool, opium, and silver, and the haveli is decorated with imported Belgian glass, Burmese teak, and the most outrageously intricate jharokha work in the city. The ground floor is now a heritage hotel, but the upper floors and the inner chowk are open to visitors by appointment for 200 rupees per person.

The story I like here is that the merchant who built it in 1928, Bhanwar Lal Rampuria, sent his son to study engineering in Edinburgh, and the son returned with the wrought iron staircase that now sits in the central courtyard, which is the only piece of European ironwork of that size in any Rajasthani haveli. Ask the caretaker to take you up to the terrace for the view across the old city rooftops to the fort. The best time is late afternoon, when the sun hits the western face of the cluster and turns the sandstone the colour of a ripe mango. Note, the upper floor has no signage, so without a guide you will miss the small room with the original 1920s Steinway piano that the family brought overland from Calcutta.

Bikaner Royal Cenotaphs at Devi Kund Sagar

About 8 km east of the city, along the Jaisalmer Road, sits the royal cremation complex of Devi Kund Sagar, also sometimes written as Devi Kund. This is where the rulers of Bikaner, their queens, and their royal concubines were cremated, and the chhatris here are some of the most beautifully carved in Rajasthan, with far less tourist traffic than the equivalent sites in Jaisalmer or Udaipur. The cenotaphs are made of white marble and red sandstone, with intricate inlay work in semi-precious stones, and many of them bear the original family portraits painted on enamel plaques. The most photographed is the cenotaph of Maharani Chandrawati, who immolated herself on the funeral pyre of her husband Maharaja Surat Singh in 1818, and the small museum here, run by the state archaeology department, has a few relics of that event plus a small collection of Rajput miniature portraits.

This is the place to come if you are interested in the real, complicated, and occasionally grim history of Bikaner rather than the polished palace version. The grounds are quiet, dotted with neem trees, and there is a bhisti who will fill your water bottle for ten rupees. The site is at its best at sunset, when the marble chhatris glow pink against the desert sky, but the museum closes at 5 p.m. sharp and the guard will shoo you out. Bring a torch, because the light inside the small display cases is poor, and the explanatory panels are only in Hindi and English, with the English half-heartedly translated from an older version. There is a small entry fee of 20 rupees, and the ticket counter is in a separate building to the left of the main gate.

The Station Road Gallery and Lesser Known Miniature Collections

For travellers who already know their way around the city and want to dig deeper into the best galleries Bikaner has buried in unexpected places, head to Station Road in the old city. There is a small private gallery attached to the Rang Mahal printing workshop, run by a third-generation block printer named Bhanwar Singh, who keeps a rotating display of original Bikaner school miniatures, Mughal hunting scenes, and rare 18th-century ragmala paintings that his grandfather acquired from a royal auction in 1952. He does not advertise, and the sign is in Devanagari only. Ask at the front desk, and he will show you the workshop in the back, where you can see how the natural dyes are mixed with camel milk and pomegranate skin, and you can buy a small original miniature for between 800 and 5,000 rupees depending on the artist.

Across the road, the Bikaner Handicrafts Emporium at the corner of Station Road and Purani Ghanta Ghar has a small but carefully curated permanent display of Bikaner school miniatures, plus an excellent section on the city's mirror work embroidery, called shisha. The shop is government-run, which means the prices are fixed and you will not get the usual haggling dance, which for some visitors is a relief. The real reason to come is the back room, where the staff keep a few pieces that are not on display, including a 17th-century painted ceiling panel salvaged from a haveli that was demolished in 1998. Ask politely, and the senior attendant will usually let you photograph it.

When to Go and What to Know

Bikaner has a hard climate, and the wrong week can ruin a trip. The best window is October through early March, when daytime temperatures sit between 18 and 28 degrees and the sandstone does not burn your hands when you touch the fort walls. Avoid April and May, when the temperature regularly tops 45 degrees and the museums become ovens with no air conditioning, except inside Anup Mahal which has been retrofitted with coolers. The Bikaner Camel Festival in late January draws enormous crowds and the prices of hotels, autos, and even bottled water spike, so book accommodation at least six weeks ahead if you plan to visit during that week.

Most of the museums listed here close on either Monday or a state holiday, and very few have reliable online information about which day that is, so the safe assumption is that Fridays are open everywhere. Entry fees for foreigners are usually between 50 and 200 rupees, with separate camera fees ranging from 20 to 100 rupees, and most sites accept only cash. Carry small notes, because the change situation at smaller sites can be dire. Auto-rickshaws from the station to the fort cost around 80 to 100 rupees, and the drivers will quote you 200 if you are visibly foreign, so always ask the rate before you get in. Dress modestly, especially at the Ganga Government Museum and the religious sites, and remove your shoes at temple entrances without being asked.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do the most popular attractions in Bikaner require advance ticket booking, especially during peak season?

Most museums and forts in Bikaner do not require advance booking, and tickets are sold at the gate on the day of visit. The exception is the Prachina Museum during the Camel Festival in late January, when entry is by token and the wait can exceed 90 minutes. Junagarh Fort gets crowded between 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. from November to February, so an early 8 a.m. entry is the only way to avoid the queues, and the gates actually do open that early. The Lalgarh Palace museum accepts walk-ins, but group tours of 10 or more must book at least two days ahead through the palace manager's office.

What are the best free or low-cost tourist places in Bikaner that are genuinely worth the visit?

The Rampuria Haveli cluster is free to walk through from the outside and is one of the most photogenic streets in the state. The Shri Laxminath Temple and its small basement gallery have no entry fee, only a 10 rupee shoe deposit. The Devi Kund Sagar royal cenotaph complex costs 20 rupees and is, in my opinion, a more interesting historical site than the equivalent cenotaphs at Jaisalmer. The Government Museum is 10 rupees for Indians and 50 for foreigners. The Bikaner Handicrafts Emporium display is free to enter, and the staff will give you a guided walk without purchase pressure.

What is the safest and most reliable way to get around Bikaner as a solo traveler?

Auto-rickshaws and e-rickshaws are the primary mode of transport, and they are generally safe for solo travellers of any gender. For women travelling alone, the city has a small fleet of women-driven e-rickshaws painted pink that can be booked through the official RTO app, and they charge the same meter rate as the regular autos. Uber and Ola do not operate inside the old city, only on the main bypass and to the railway station, so download offline maps before you arrive. Cycle rickshaws are still common in the lanes between Junagarh Fort and Rampuria Haveli and cost around 30 rupees for a short hop.

Is it possible to walk between the main sightseeing spots in Bikaner, or is local transport necessary?

The four main sites in the old city, Junagarh Fort, Prachina Museum, the Rampuria Haveli cluster, and the Shri Laxminath Temple, are all within a 1.5 km radius and can comfortably be covered on foot in a single morning or afternoon. Lalgarh Palace is about 4 km south of the fort and is too far to walk in the heat, so take an auto. Ganga Government Museum is 2.5 km from the fort, also auto territory. The Devi Kund Sagar cenotaphs are 8 km out and require either a hired car or a shared jeep from the bus stand.

How many days are needed to see the major tourist attractions in Bikaner without feeling rushed?

Two full days is the minimum to cover the fort, Prachina Museum, Rampuria Haveli, Ganga Government Museum, and Lalgarh Palace without rushing. Three days allows for a half-day trip to the National Research Centre on Camels and a leisurely visit to Devi Kund Sagar at sunset. Four days lets you add the Jain temple at Kolayat, 50 km out, which has its own small museum of bronze idols, and the village of Deshnoke with the famous rat temple 30 km south. Most travellers give Bikaner only one day before heading to

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