Best Wine Bars in Almora for an Unhurried Evening Glass

Photo by  Pooran Chandra

18 min read · Almora, India · wine bars ·

Best Wine Bars in Almora for an Unhurried Evening Glass

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Words by

Akshita Sharma

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Where Evening Finds You in Almora

Let me be honest with you from the start, "best wine bars in Almora" is not a phrase you will find splashed across travel brochures or Instagram reels about this hill town. Almora does not announce itself as a wine destination the way Nashik does. It does not have rows of tasting rooms with panoramic vineyard views or sleek urban lounges with curated international menus. But here is the thing about this Kumaoni town perched at five thousand feet above sea level, the appetite for a thoughtful glass of wine after a long day of walking those steep cobbled lanes is real, and there are corners of Almora that quietly, almost reluctantly, cater to it. You just have to know where to look, and more importantly, when to arrive.

I have spent enough evenings in Almora, across enough seasons, to tell you that the experience of wine here is inseparable from the town itself. Wine culture in Almora is not a standalone thing. It is folded into dhaba dinners, hotel terrace gardens, weekend getaways at heritage properties, and the occasional Gurjar community gathering where someone quietly uncorks a bottle brought back from Delhi. It is modest. It is rarely documented. And it is entirely worth exploring.

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Lackhpur sits about fourteen kilometers north of Almora town proper, connected by a road that winds through pine forests so dense you lose your phone signal around the halfway mark. This is where you find the most developed cluster of wine-friendly spaces in the greater Almora region, and it is not by accident. Lackhpur has quietly become a magnet for weekend travelers from Delhi and Noida starting roughly around 2018, when a handful of people from Gurjar families who had returned from cities started converting their ancestral homes into boutique lodges. Most of these places do not advertise wine menus. You will not see "natural wine Almora" on any chalkboard. But every single one of them keeps a stock of bottles, mostly imported reds and whites brought in from Chandigarh or Delhi suppliers, and they will open whatever you want for the price of the bottle plus a small service charge.

The Terrace at Ugyen's Place, Lackhpur

If I have to recommend one spot for wine tasting Almora style, this is it. Ugyen's Place is a small guesthouse on a ridge above Lackhpur with a south-facing wooden terrace that catches the last two hours of sunlight. The owner, a retired schoolteacher originally from Almora who spent fifteen years running a small business in Bengaluru, stocks a rotating selection of wines sourced through a friend who operates an importer in Dehradun. When I visited in late October, the list included a Chilean Carménère, a South African Chenin Blanc, and a surprisingly decent Sula sparkling rosé that she had chilled perfectly in a copper bucket filled with ice from the Lackhpur cold storage.

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There is no printed menu. She tells you what she has when you arrive. You drink on the terrace, wrapped in a wool blanket she keeps folded on every chair, watching the Nanda Devi range fade to violet behind the pines. She charges between eight hundred and twelve hundred rupees per bottle depending on what you pick, with no corkage, which is the lowest markup I have encountered in this entire region.

The detail most tourists miss is timing. Most people drive up from Almora in the late afternoon and arrive around four o'clock, which is already too late to catch the light at its best. She lights small kerosene lamps at six, and the terrace takes on a different character entirely. Ask her about her daughter's paintings on the walls inside. They depict scenes from her years in Bengaluru, and they are genuinely lovely.

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On weekends starting Friday evening, the terrace can get crowded with groups from Delhi who reserve for dinner. If you want the best seats, call a day ahead. But on a Tuesday or Wednesday evening, you will likely have the whole place to yourselves, and she will sit with you for a glass if she is not busy with other guests.

Heritage Vine at Siddhi Estate

Siddhi Estate is a property originally built in the 1930s by a British forest officer and later acquired by a Gurjar family from the Sor Valley. It sits along the road between Almora and Dwarahat, technically closer to Dwarahat but tied to Almora's orbit in the minds of most travelers. The estate now operates as a heritage homestay, and its wine situation is one of the better-kept secrets in the area.

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The current family running the estate traveled extensively in the late 2000s, spending time in European wine regions, and they bring back bottles whenever they visit relatives abroad. They do not maintain a formal cellar, but the collection leans toward natural wines and small-producer labels, which makes it the closest thing to a proper wine lounge Almora and its surroundings can claim. I tasted a Georgian amber wine there last spring that had been brought back by a younger family member who had been backpacking through the Caucasus. It was served slightly too warm, which I suspect was intentional given, but the flavor, honeyed and tannic, paired surprisingly well with the Kumaoni rajma they served alongside.

The property charges guests a flat corkage fee of three hundred rupees per bottle for personal bottles brought in, and for their own stock, prices range from six hundred to two thousand rupees. The best time to visit is between March and early June, when the rhododendrons along the access road are in full bloom and the evenings carry just enough warmth to sit outside without a shawl but enough coolness to appreciate a red wine. The estate also hosts occasional vineyard-style dinners, four to six per year, where the family prepares a Kumaoni thali paired with wines they select. These evenings are not widely advertised, they spread through word of mouth and WhatsApp groups, and they sell out within hours.

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One honest note, the service can be slow during these dinners. The family handles everything themselves, cooking, serving, and conversation, and if you are seated at a late wave of the meal, expect gaps of twenty to thirty minutes between courses. It is not a criticism so much as a reality of how things run in these hill estates, and the food and wine are worth every idle minute of waiting.

The Mall Road Wine Experience

You will not find a dedicated wine bar on Mall Road, but you will find two hotel properties that pour wine with enough regularity and competence to warrant mention. The first is Hotel Shikhar, which has been a fixture of Almora's social life since the 1970s. Its rooftop restaurant, open to non-guests starting at six in the evening, stocks a small but functional selection including Grover La Réserve red, York Sparkling Arros, and occasionally a Fratelli Sette if their Ranikhet supplier has been reliable. A glass of Grover runs around two hundred and eighty rupees, which is fair given the venue and the views, you can see the entire valley stretching toward Ranikhet on a clear night.

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The second is Meghdoot Hotel, just a five-minute walk from the Mall Road bus stand. Their dining area has been renovated in the last couple of years and now features a glass-fronted wine cabinet near the entrance. The selection is narrower than Shikhar's, and the staff's knowledge of what they are pouring is limited, but the atmosphere is quieter and less touristy. A South African Shiraz I tried there in February was adequately chilled and poured generously, at around two hundred and fifty rupees per glass.

Hotel Shikhar gets loud on Saturday evenings, especially between seven and nine, when local families and visiting groups crowd the rooftop. If what you want is a contemplative glass, aim for a weeknight. Meghdoot is more controllable in this regard, but their wine stock is not always up to date, I have arrived twice to find listed bottles unavailable. Call ahead if you have something specific in mind.

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Insider tip for Mall Road, the street vendors selling roasted corn and singori during the evening hours pair unexpectedly well with a glass of red. Nobody is going to tell you this is an elevated combination, but sitting at Shikhar's railing with a glass of Grover and a plate of singori while the town lights flicker on below is one of Almora's more underrated pleasures.

Kausani Nights and Wine at The Kumaon Resort

Kausani sits forty-five kilometers north of Almora, and I include it here because many travelers exploring the wine options around the Almora region make the drive north along the same road that eventually leads to Kausani's higher vistas. The Kumaon Resort, run by a family originally from Almora who moved into hospitality a decade ago, has a dedicated drinks lounge that they call the Chimney Room, a low-ceilinged space with a working fireplace and a curated bar program.

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Their wine selection is the most deliberate I encountered during my research. The property sources through a Dehradun-based distributor who specializes in natural and low-intervention wines, which means you will find labels here that do not turn up in Almora proper. A skin-contact Greek Assyrtiko I drank there in November was the standout, served in proper wine glasses, not the short tumblers that most hill properties default to. Bottle prices start at around nine hundred rupees and go up to twenty-five hundred for their premium drops.

The Chimney Room is open only during the October to March tourist season, roughly, and reservations are recommended at least forty-eight hours in advance on weekends. The fireplace is the draw. Kausani evenings in winter drop close to freezing, and there is something about watching the fire while sipping a Malbec that makes the Almora region feel connected to the world's other cold-climate wine cultures.

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On the practical side, getting back to Almora after a few glasses is something to plan. The road between Kausani and Almora is narrow and poorly lit after dark. The resort can arrange a driver, or you can book a room, which starts around three thousand five hundred rupees per night with dinner included.

Ranikhet Connections

Ranikhet sits between Almora and Delhi, about an hour's drive along a road that most travelers heading to Almora from the plains pass through. While Ranikhet is technically a separate district, the two towns share a cultural and economic rhythm, and the wine scene overlaps. The Officers' Club, a colonial-era institution, permits non-members to dine on certain days, and their bar service includes a handful of wines alongside the usual whisky and beer. It is not sophisticated, the wines are from mainstream Indian brands served at room temperature, but the colonial architecture and the quiet of the surrounding cantonment give the experience an old-world quality that pairs with wine more naturally than you might expect.

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The better option in Ranikhet for wine is the Mayur Dynasty resort on the main road, which maintains a more updated bar list and employs staff who can actually describe what they are pouring. Their Cabernet Sauvignon, two hundred and twenty rupees a glass, is passable, and the outdoor seating area catches a pleasant evening breeze from the surrounding sal trees.

The connection between Almora and Ranikhet's wine offerings is worth mentioning because many travelers combine both towns into a single trip. Knowing that Ranikhet has a slightly better商用 wine infrastructure can save you from making the trip to Almora expecting something it does not provide, and vice versa, the two together give a more complete picture of what this region looks like for a wine-curious traveler.

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Delhi's Influence on Almora's Wine Culture

Something that becomes apparent very quickly when you start mapping the best wine bars in Almora and its periphery is how much of the supply chain begins in the capital. Nearly every bottle of wine served in this region passes through a Delhi-based importer or distributor before making its way to hill suppliers. The Gurjar families who dominate Almora's hospitality scene maintain strong Delhi connections, they send relatives there for education, do business there, and source goods there.

This means that on any given week, a property in Lackhpur might have access to the same emerging natural wine label that you would find at a specialty bar in Shahpur Jat or Kailash Colony, though at a markup and a delay of a few weeks. It also means that the wine scene is more dynamic than it appears. A property that had nothing interesting last month might stock something genuinely surprising this month, depending on what their Delhi contact delivered.

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The practical upshot is this, when you call ahead to a property in the Almora region to ask about wine, do not be discouraged if the first response is vague. Ask specifically if they have anything from a Delhi supplier arriving that week, or if the owner recently returned from the capital. The answers will often be more promising than the property's public-facing information suggests.

Street-Level Drinking and the Dhaba Wine Culture

This section might surprise you, but some of the most honest wine drinking I have done in the Almora region has happened not in a lounge or resort but at roadside dhabas along the Almora-Ranikhet and Almora-Pithoragarh highways. These are not fancy establishments. We are talking about wooden benches, steel plates, and menus limited to dal, rice, and possibly chicken. But the owners of several dhabas near Chiliyanaula and along the Bhargaon stretch have started keeping small stocks of basic wines, usually Jacob's Creek or Sula, for the benefit of tourists who would rather have wine than chai with their evening meal.

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The wine is served warm most of the time, or at best, in a plastic glass kept in a refrigerator that also holds bottles of Thumbs Up and packets of chips. Nobody here is pretending it is a tasting experience. But there is something refreshingly unpretentious about drinking a basic Merlot on a wooden bench while watching trucks grind their way uphill in the fading light, with the Kumaoni hills rolling out around you like a green ocean. The wines are priced at four hundred to seven hundred rupees a bottle, and most dhabas will happily open one for you without corkage.

The best of these spots is immediately past the Bhargaon market along the Pithoragarh road, though I hesitate to name it more precisely because it is essentially a family operation with a hand-painted sign. Go in the evening between five and seven, when the light is golden and the evening truck traffic has not yet turned the road into a noisy corridor. The family running the place is amused and a little proud when someone orders wine instead of chai, and they will offer you roasted peanuts on the house.

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A word of caution, the dhabas are not always reliable about having wine in stock. Calling ahead is not really an option since few have working phone numbers for the kitchen. Show up with a backup plan, or be ready to fall back on the surprisingly good local beer that most of them keep instead.

When to Go and What to Know

October through March is the high season for the Almora region, and this is the period when wine stocks at hotels and guesthouses are most likely to be full and varied. March and April offer extended evenings, though the tourist swell in those months means properties fill up fast and service can suffer. September is the shoulder month, quieter, with unpredictable rain, but the air has a clarity that makes terrace drinking genuinely lovely.

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WhatsApp is the primary booking method for most small properties in the Almora region. Email is rarely checked. Phone calls are fine, but a WhatsApp message with your request and preferred dates gets the fastest response. Most properties that serve wine do not list it on any public platform. It is entirely an in-person or private-conversation amenity.

Expect markups. Wine in the hills costs more than it does in Delhi, sometimes by a factor of two, because of transport, limited supply, and the absence of competitive pricing pressure. This is normal. If you have strong preferences about what you drink, bringing your own bottles is widely accepted, and most properties will open them for a corkage fee between two hundred and five hundred rupees. This is your single best strategy for enjoying exactly what you want at a manageable price.

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Driving after drinking is not advisable. The mountain roads are narrow, steep, and poorly lit. Even a single glass affects your reflexes at altitude in ways you might not anticipate. Budget for a hired car with driver, typically available from Almora for around fifteen hundred to two thousand rupees for a half-day loop, or choose a property where you can sleep on site. The best wine evenings I have had in Almora were the ones where I did not need to worry about how I was getting back.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are there any specific dress codes or cultural etiquettes to keep in mind when visiting local spots in Almora?

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Most hotel restaurants and guesthouses in Almora operate with a relaxed dress code, smart casual suffices everywhere, but a few heritage properties request guests avoid overly casual attire like shorts or flip-flops in dining areas after six in the evening. In the more conservative parts of the old town, modest dress is appreciated, particularly for women, though this is more about cultural respect than enforced policy. The dhabas and roadside spots have no expectations beyond basic neatness. When drinking wine in someone's home or a family-run guesthouse, it is customary to offer the hosts a glass, they may or may not accept, but the gesture is always well received.

What is the one must-try local specialty food or drink that Almora is famous for?

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Singori, a sweet wrapped in maalu leaf made from khoya and desiccated coconut, is Almora's most distinctive local specialty and pairs with wine in ways locals do not acknowledge but should. For something with more complexity, seek out the Kumaoni bal mithai, a dark fudge-like chocolate made from roasted khoya and coated in white sugar balls, originally from the nearby town of Lohaghat but available in Almora's main market. Wash either one down with a glass of the locally produced apple cider from Ramgarh, about twenty-five kilometers south, which ranges from sweet to dry and is genuinely excellent with a mid-range white wine.

Is Almora expensive to visit? Give a realistic daily budget breakdown for mid-tier travelers?

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A mid-tier traveler in Almora should budget between three thousand five hundred and five thousand five hundred rupees per day excluding transport to and from the town. This covers a decent guesthouse or heritage hotel at twenty-two hundred to three thousand rupees, two meals at local or hotel restaurants at eight hundred to twelve hundred rupees, and wine or drinks at three hundred to one thousand rupees depending on where and how much you drink. Adding a hired car for local sightseeing at fifteen hundred to two thousand rupees a day brings the upper end to around seven thousand five hundred rupees. Almora is markedly cheaper than comparable hill towns like Nainital or Shimla, and street food can bring costs down further if you are willing to live on forty-rupee plates of maggi and ten-rupee chai during the daytime.

Is the tap water in Almora safe to drink, or should travelers strictly rely on filtered water options?

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The municipal tap water in Almora is generally not safe for direct consumption due to inconsistent treatment and aging pipe infrastructure, particularly in the old town where lines are decades old. Hotels and guesthouses overwhelmingly provide filtered or RO-treated water through dispensers in common areas or rooms, and most will refill your bottle without charge. For properties in Lackhpur or along the outskirts, ask specifically about their water source, some rely on springs or bore wells that locals trust but that may not meet traveler tolerance. Budget twenty to fifty rupees per day for sealed bottled water, the preferred safety net, with every major Indian brand available at general stores across the town.

How easy is it to find pure vegetarian, vegan, or plant-based dining options in Almora?

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Vegetarian food is the default across Almora, nearly every restaurant, dhaba, and hotel kitchen operates with a purely vegetarian or heavily vegetarian-leaning menu, reflecting both the local Kumaoni Hindu dietary preferences and the scarcity of reliable meat supply chains at this altitude. Identifying meat-free options requires virtually no effort, virtually everything you encounter from dal-chawal to parathas to thali is vegetarian. Vegan options are trickier. Ghee, butter, and cream are used liberally in Kumaoni cooking, and most kitchens do not distinguish between vegetarian and vegan when preparing dishes. Your best bet for vegan-friendly meals is to request "shakahari bina ghee" at any standard restaurant or to eat at the Jain food stalls near the bus stand, where ghee is excluded as a matter of practice. At higher-end homestays, communicating dietary needs in advance via WhatsApp typically results in a genuinely vegan menu at no extra charge.

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