Best Historic and Heritage Hotels in Seydisfjordur With Real Stories Behind Their Walls

Photo by  Julia Taubitz

14 min read · Seydisfjordur, Iceland · historic heritage hotels ·

Best Historic and Heritage Hotels in Seydisfjordur With Real Stories Behind Their Walls

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Words by

Hanna Stefansdottir

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The best historic hotels in Seydisfjordur are not polished five-star properties with infinity pools and concierge desks. They are creaky, slightly crooked wooden buildings that survived Norwegian herring traders, world wars, and decades of Arctic wind off the fjord. I moved back to this town in 2017 after fifteen years in Reykjavik, and I have slept, eaten, or toured nearly every one of these places. If you want to understand Seydisfjordur, you stay inside its walls. The hotels here tell you who arrived first, who stayed too long, and which merchants left behind the gorgeous timber facades you now photograph on Raugata.

Hotel Aldan and the Norwegian Merchant Trading Post

Hotel Aldan sits on Raugata 2, right at the bend where the rainbow street leads down to the ferry terminal. The building went up in 1887, originally a merchant's house for a Norwegian trader who made his money selling salt cod, herring, and Icelandic wool to the rest of Scandinavia. You can still see the original iron hardware on the doors and the worn grooves in the wooden stairs where porters dragged trunks for over a century. Most rooms look straight out toward the fjord, and on a clear morning you can watch the Norrona ferry creep in from the south.

I stayed here in October 2022, when a storm knocked out power for six hours. The staff lit paraffin lamps in the lounge and served warm homemade rye bread with butter. That is the kind of hospitality you do not get at a chain. The breakfast buffet the next day featured freshly baked skyr cake, smoked trout from nearby Seydisfjardarflói, and pancakes cooked to order.

Local Insider Tip: "Ask for room 14, the corner attic suite. The slanted window frames the church steeple and the mountains at once, and you can hear the river from your pillow. Reception keeps extra blankets in the hallway closet because that room holds the cold on windy nights."

The hotel is the most convenient base in town for walking everywhere, including the Skaftfell art center, the blue church, and the technical museum.

Hótel Bjarkalundur, the Oldest Timber House on Raugata

Hótel Bjarkalundur occupies a yellow-painted two-story house on Raugata 18, a few doors up from the post office. The building dates to 1907, when Seydisfjordur was a roaring port of 1,200 people, mostly Norwegians running the herring factories down by the water. The hotel only has six rooms, so it sells out fast in July. The owner, Sigrún, runs the place with her husband and their two sheepdogs, Mundi and Skugga, who greet every guest in the lobby.

I dropped in for coffee last spring and ended up staying two hours. Sigrún had a stack of family photographs from the 1920s, when her grandfather ran a pharmacy out of the front room. The original shelving and apothecary drawers are still built into the walls, and the breakfast table is laid out on the counter where he once mixed cough syrup.

Local Insider Tip: "Skip the hotel breakfast and walk 200 meters down the road to Hótel Aldan's cafe. Bjarkalundur is short on kitchen staff in winter, so they sometimes skip serving hot food entirely on weekdays. If you book direct, ask Sigrún for the upstairs corner room with the claw-foot tub, it has the most light."

The biggest complaint is that the walls are thin. If another guest is up early making tea, you will hear every clink of the kettle.

The Post Office Guesthouse, Once the Telegraph Hub

Across from the ferry landing on Hafnargata, the old post office building now operates as a small guesthouse under the name Hafnargata Guesthouse. It was built in 1912 as the communication center for the entire eastern fjords region. The original brass key rack behind the front desk still has numbered tags for the mail slots, and one of the guest rooms on the second floor used to be the telegraph operator's sleeping quarters.

You will not find this place on the major booking sites, it operates mostly through email and word of mouth, and the owner keeps rates reasonable to keep the place full year-round. I sent a friend there in November, and he ended up cooking dinner in the shared kitchen with two French cyclists and a retired schoolteacher from Akureyri.

Local Insider Tip: "Bring cash. The card machine in the hallway broke in 2021 and they have not replaced it. The owner will sometimes knock 1,000 ISK off the rate if you pay in notes and bring a good bottle of wine to share."

The walls are thick compared to newer buildings, so you actually sleep through the 6 a.m. ferry horn.

Hôtel Sveinbjarnargerði, the Pastor's House Above the Lake

About 2 kilometers west of the village center, just past the duck pond at Heiðarvatn, stands Hôtel Sveinbjarnargerði. The house was the parsonage for the Lutheran church in the early 1900s, and the current owners have run it as a small hotel since 1998. The original pulpit chairs from the church are stacked in the upstairs hallway, and the chandelier in the dining room once hung in the sanctuary.

The hotel is the only place in Seydisfjordur where I have eaten a serious five-course dinner without going to a restaurant. The chef, Kristján, trained in Copenhagen and came back to cook Icelandic heritage food using ingredients from Egilsstaðir farms, reindeer from the highlands, and trout from the lake next door. The langoustine soup is the kind of dish you remember for years.

Local Insider Tip: "Book dinner in advance, even if you are not staying overnight. The hotel sells seats to non-guests on Fridays and Saturdays during summer, but they cap it at 12 people. Tell them you want the corner table by the window facing the lake. That is where Kristján sits when he eats his own staff meal."

The drive back into town after 11 p.m. in winter can be slippery, so do not drink too much of their excellent wine list unless you have arranged a taxi in advance.

Gallery Svavar and the Norwegian Skipper's Loft

This is the strangest entry on my list, because it is not technically a hotel. Gallery Svavar at Raugata 22 is the home and studio of the painter Svavar Guðnason, who is also the unofficial historian of Seydisfjordur's maritime past. He rents out his upstairs loft, an open wooden space that used to belong to a Norwegian skipper in the 1930s, to travelers who want something different. The walls are covered in framed pencil sketches of old ships, the original floorboards are uneven in a way that feels honest, and the bathroom has a claw-foot tub under a skylight.

I rented the loft for a week in 2020 while writing a piece on the herring industry. Svavar knocked on my door at 8 a.m. every morning with coffee and a slice of fresh kleinur, the Icelandic twisted donut, which his wife bakes three times a week. He told me stories about the German occupation during WWII and how the local fjord was used as a base by Allied convoys heading to Murmansk.

Local Insider Tip: "If you stay here, ask Svavar to walk you through the back garden. He has a small graveyard of old ship figureheads, salvaged from herring boats that burned at the dock in the 1960s. None of this is online, and he will not show it to you unless you ask."

This is the only place in town with genuine original 1930s wall paneling, and you can feel the difference the moment you walk in.

The Blue Church Annex Guesthouse

The famous blue church, Seydisfjarðarkirkja from 1922, sits on a small rise at the end of Raugata. Behind it, attached to the parish hall, is a small two-room guesthouse that the church rents out during summer to fund the restoration of the building's stained glass. The guesthouse has no sign, no website, and almost no online presence. You have to call the church office during opening hours and ask for Þórdís.

I stayed here for two nights in August 2023 and woke up to church bells and a clear view of the fjord. The room is sparse, just a bed, a desk, and a kettle, but it has the tallest ceilings in the village, and the windows face east, so the morning light comes in strong.

Local Insider Tip: "Bring earplugs if you are not an early riser. The bell tower rings at 7 a.m., noon, and 6 p.m. on the quarter hours. Also, there is no Wi-Fi in the guesthouse, but the church office next door will let you use theirs if you knock softly."

This is the only place in Seydisfjordur where you can legally sleep in a church building, and it is the cheapest real bed you will find anywhere in town.

Seydisfjordur Community Hostel, the Old Co-op Store

A few steps off Raugata on Suðurgata, the hostel occupies the building that used to house the Kaupfélag, the cooperative store that served the town from 1910 until 1990. The original wooden counters are still bolted to the floor in the common area, and the loft where bags of flour and sugar used to be stored is now a dormitory with eight beds. The ground floor cafe stays open until 9 p.m. and serves soups, sandwiches, and the best cinnamon buns in the eastern fjords.

I stayed here in 2019 with a group of hikers walking the Eastfjords Way. We had a private four-bed room at the back of the building, where the old loading dock used to be. The door still has the original brass handle, worn smooth by the palms of every farmer who came in to sell wool in the 1950s.

Local Insider Tip: "Ask for the dorm bed near the window, not the one next to the door. The door lets in a draft off the fjord that stays cold until May, even with two blankets. Also, the cafe staff make a homemade fish stew on Thursdays that never makes it to the printed menu."

The hostel is the only place in Seydisfjordur where you can sleep under a 110-year-old roof for under 8,000 ISK per night in summer.

Hótel Snæfell and the Eastern Fjords Heritage Library

About 50 meters from the harbor, on Austurvegur, Hótel Snæfell occupies a building that was originally the regional library and community hall, funded in 1909 by a Danish shipping magnate named Carl Smidt. The library moved to a new building in 1985, and the old one stood empty for years before the current owners turned it into a six-room hotel. The original reading room, with its high ceiling and tall windows, is now the breakfast hall, and the librarian's old office is the smallest guest room, number 3.

I ate breakfast here one cold March morning, and the manager, Eyrún, walked me through the back hallway where the original card catalogue drawers are still mounted in the wall, filled with old lending cards from the 1930s. She told me that guests sometimes leave a book behind in room 3, in memory of the library that used to be there.

Local Insider Tip: "Do not book the smallest room expecting it to be quiet. The street noise off Austurvegur bounces against the building at night, and room 3 faces the main road. Ask for room 1 or 2 instead, they face the back garden where there is a small stream."

This hotel is the only one in Seydisfjordur that doubles as a small museum, and you can spend an hour in the breakfast room just looking at the framed photographs of the original library patrons.

When to Go and What to Know

Seydisfjordur's heritage hotels Seydisfjordur runs on a very different calendar than Reykjavik. The high season is short, from mid-June to mid-August, when the ferry from Denmark arrives weekly and the population of 700 swells to nearly 1,500. Book direct by email if you can, many of the smaller houses do not release their rooms on Booking or Airbnb until March. Shoulder season in May and September often gives you the best combination of mild weather and lower rates. October through April, several of the smaller guesthouses close entirely. If you are driving, know that Route 93 over Fjarðarheiði mountain pass is closed in winter and only opens when conditions allow, so plan your arrival carefully. Always carry cash, especially for the smaller heritage hotels Seydisfjordur is known for, since card machines sometimes fail. Finally, do not expect late check-ins. Most hotel owners here are also the front desk staff, and they go to bed at 10 p.m.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the safest and most reliable way to get around Seydisfjordur as a solo traveler?

Walking is the safest and most reliable option within the town itself. The entire village core is about 1.5 km from end to end, and all the main heritage hotels Seydisfjordur offers sit within a 10-minute walk of each other. The streets are well lit, traffic is light, and the local police station on Raugata is staffed during daytime hours. For trips to outlying properties like Hôtel Sveinbjarnargerði, a rental car or a pre-booked local taxi is the only practical option since there is no public bus service in the area.

Is it possible to walk between the main sightseeing spots in Seydisfjordur, or is local transport necessary?

Yes, every major sight in the town center is walkable. The blue church, the technical museum, the Skaftfell art center, and all of the hotels listed above are within a 1.5 km radius. The walk from the ferry terminal at the harbor to the highest hotel on Raugata is about 12 minutes uphill. Local transport only becomes necessary if you want to visit the waterfalls at Gufufoss or the hiking trail to Vestdalur, both of which lie 2 to 3 km outside the village and require a vehicle or a guided tour.

What are the best free or low-cost tourist places in Seydisfjordur that are genuinely worth the visit?

The technical museum on Raugata charges 1,200 ISK, the blue church is free to enter, and walking the rainbow street itself costs nothing and is one of the most photographed sights in eastern Iceland. The waterfront path along Fjarðarvegur is also free and offers a 30-minute loop with views of the harbor. Several of the heritage hotels Seydisfjordur is known for also welcome non-guests to walk through their historic halls during daytime hours, although you should always ask at the front desk first.

Do the most popular attractions in Seydisfjordur require advance ticket booking, especially during peak season?

The hotels themselves do not require advance tickets, but rooms in the smaller heritage properties fill up 3 to 4 months ahead for July and August. Skaftfell art center hosts summer exhibitions that occasionally require timed entry, and the local swimming pool requires an online booking during peak hours. The technical museum and the blue church are walk-in. Always confirm ferry arrival dates before booking, because the town gets a sudden 400-person surge on ferry days.

How many days are needed to see the major tourist attractions in Seydisfjordur without feeling rushed?

Two full days is the minimum to comfortably experience the town, including at least one of the heritage hotels, the blue church, the technical museum, and a walk to one of the nearby waterfalls. Three days allows for a hike to Vestdalur and a visit to a second museum. Most travelers who stay only one night regret it, because the ferry schedule and the mountain pass travel time eat into the first and last days. Five days is ideal if you plan to use Seydisfjordur as a base for day trips into the Eastfjords.

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