Best Things to Do in Crete for First Timers (and Repeat Visitors)

Photo by  erika m

16 min read · Crete, Greece · things to do ·

Best Things to Do in Crete for First Timers (and Repeat Visitors)

NG

Words by

Nikos Georgiou

Share

If you have ever wondered about the best things to do in Crete and felt paralyzed by the sheer size of the island, I get it. Crete is 260 kilometers long, has two major cities, a mountain range that almost touches 2,500 meters, and roughly 1,000 kilometers of coastline. You cannot see it all in one trip, so stop trying. What you can do is hit the places that locals send their friends to, the ones you keep hearing about at kafeneia after dark. Consider this my running list of activities Crete does better than anywhere else, written from a guy who has driven more kilometers of the E75 than he would like to admit.

Knossos and the Palace of the Minoans

The archaeological site at Knossos sits about 5 kilometers south of Iraklio, just off the road to Archanes. Yes, it is touristy. Yes, the bus from Plateia Eleftherias drops you at the gate in 20 minutes for a few euros. Go anyway, because this is where the Minoan civilization actually lived, not just where they buried their dead. The Throne Room, the reconstructed North Entrance with the original Charging Bull fresco copy, and the drainage system that still works after 4,000 years are genuinely worth standing in front of.

The Vibe? Open-air Bronze Age museum with 6,000 other people between 10 am and 2 pm.
The Bill? Combined ticket for Knossos plus the Heraklion Archaeological Museum is €16, valid for three days.
The Standout? The Hall of the Double Axes, where the labyrinth myth was born.
The Catch? The reconstructed upper floors are controversial among archaeologists, and frankly the bright red concrete columns Sir Arthur Evans poured in the 1920s look more like a 1920s restoration than a 4,000 year old palace. Go early at 8 am opening to avoid both the heat and the cruise ship waves.

Local tip: walk 10 minutes uphill from the main palace to the small Church of Agia Paraskevi for shade and a view across the orchards to the White Mountains on a clear day. The Heraklion Archaeological Museum, two kilometers back toward town, holds the real frescoes, the snake goddess figurine, and the Phaistos Disc. Skip the palace on Mondays if you want the museum quieter instead.

Heraklion Old Town and the Venetian Harbor

The old town of Iraklio is a 600-meter walk from anywhere you'll be staying, and it is the most concentrated spot for experiences in Crete if you only have one evening. The Koules Fortress squats at the end of the Venetian harbor breakwater, built in the 1500s, and the walk along the seawall at sunset is the kind of view that makes you forget the traffic. From there push into the narrow streets behind 25 Avgoustou street, where the Morosini Fountain anchors a square that has been the civic heart of the city since 1628.

The Vibe? Friday night in late June when the whole harbor is full of locals walking off dinner.
The Bill? Free to walk. Ouzo at a harbor taverna runs €3-5 a glass, meze plates €5-9.
The Standout? Eating dakos (the Cretan barley rusk with tomato and mizithra cheese) at any of the small places off Daidalou Street, then walking the Venetian walls at dusk.
The Catch? Parking inside the old town is genuinely miserable. The paid lot at the port is your safest bet, around €5 for the evening.

What most visitors miss is that the old city walls, originally Venetian, then expanded by the Ottomans, are still walkable for about 3 kilometers. You can climb up near the bus station and follow the ramparts all the way around past the grave of Nikos Kazantzakis, the author of Zorba the Greek, whose tomb faces the way he requested, with the words "I hope for nothing. I fear nothing. I am free." etched into the stone.

Samaria Gorge, the Long Walk Everyone Has to Do Once

If you do one organized outdoor activity in Crete, do the Samaria Gorge in the White Mountains of western Crete. The trail starts at Xyloskalo, 1,250 meters above sea level, near Omalos, and ends 16 kilometers later at the coastal village of Agia Roumeli on the Libyan Sea. Bring real shoes, not sandals. Bring 2-3 liters of water per person. Start at 6 am to finish in the village by early afternoon, before the noon buses clog the path.

The Vibe? 4 to 6 hours of mostly downhill rocky steps through a UNESCO biosphere reserve.
The Bill? Entry fee €5, ferry from Agia Roumeli to Sougia or Chora Sfakion €9-12, bus from there back to Chania €7.50.
The Standout? The Sideroportes, the Iron Gates, where the gorge narrows to 3 meters wide and the walls rise 300 meters straight up.
The Catch? Closed in winter and during high fire risk days, usually reopening early May. The final 2 kilometers on the hot flat plain feel endless if you arrive dehydrated.

The gorge is open from roughly May 1 to October 30, but the sweet spot is mid May or late September. In July and August the air inside the canyon sits around 35-40°C by midday and you will queue at the narrow bottlenecks. After the hike, eat at one of the tavernas on Agia Roumeli's harbor, order the local sfakian pie, a thin pancake filled with mizithra and drizzled with honey, and swim for 20 minutes in the sea before catching the ferry. The cold shock after the gorge is one of the underrated experiences in Crete.

Chania Old Town and the Venetian Harbor

Chania, or Hania depending on who is writing the sign, is on the northwest coast and many first-timers end up using it as their base without realizing what they have. The old town wraps around a second Venetian harbor, smaller and arguably prettier than Heraklion's, with the Firkas Fortress on one side and the old lighthouse on the other. Walk the harbor at 7 am and you will have it mostly to yourself and a few old men with fishing lines. Walk it again at midnight in August and it becomes a slow river of tourists and locals.

The Vibe? A working harbor, a tourist harbor, and a small university city all on top of each other.
The Bill? A full dinner with wine for two at a mid-range taverna runs €35-50.
The Standout? A coffee at Koukounaria, a small café in a back square off Zambeliou Street, followed by a slow browse of the leather shops on Skridlof Street.
The Catch? The beaches at Agii Apostoli, 4 kilometers west, get packed from 11 am, but if you show up at 9 am you can grab a free umbrelled spot at the far end near the Golden Coast hotel.

Local tip: most visitors never walk to the Topanas neighborhood at the western end of the old town, where the Jewish quarter once stood before the 1944 bombing. The Etz Hayyim synagogue at 32 Parados Kondylaki is the only one on the island that survived and still holds Friday evening services. For a real lunch, skip the harbor front and walk 10 minutes inland to Tamam on Plateia Mitropoleos, where the kitchen turns out hand-rolled grape leaves and slow-cooked lamb with quince.

Elafonissi Beach and the Pink Sand

Two hours west of Chania by car, down a winding road through Topolia Gorge, you reach the Elafonissi lagoon on the southwest coast. The water is shallow, warm, and so clear you can see your toes 5 meters out, and the sand is genuinely pink in places, the color coming from crushed coral mixed with the white. This is the most photographed beach on the island and for good reason.

The Vibe? Turquoise lagoon, sandbar you can wade across, umbrellas for hire.
The Bill? Sunbed and umbrella combo €8-10, parking €3.
The Standout? Walking the 1-kilometer sandbar over to the small uninhabited islet on the far side of the lagoon, where most day-trippers never go.
The Catch? Gets absolutely overrun from 11 am to 4 pm in July and August. The parking lot fills up, the road in is single track, and you can wait 40 minutes just to get off the hill. Arrive at 8 am or skip the peak month.

The road to Elafonissi also passes through the village of Elos, which has three or four small tavernas serving the local chestnut dishes in autumn. If you are driving back to Chania after the beach, stop at Kafeneio To Kafenio in Karanxos village for a Greek coffee and a plate of local paximadi rusks topped with tomato and olives. This is a less hyped entry in any Crete travel guide but a fair chunk of what makes the southwest feel different from the north coast.

Spinalonga Island and the Last Leper Colony

Boats to Spinalonga leave from the small ports of Elounda, Plaka, and Agios Nikolaos on the eastern side of the island, roughly 1.5 hours east of Heraklion. The little fortified island was a Venetian fortress, then an Ottoman settlement, and from 1903 to 1957 it functioned as a Greek leper colony, one of the last in Europe. The story is told in Victoria Hislop's novel "The Island," which is why a lot of British tourists now make the trip, but the actual ruins are the real draw.

The Vibe? 20 minute boat ride across Mirabello Bay, then 1.5 hours walking through empty stone houses.
The Bill? Boat ticket from Plaka €10-12, entrance to the island €8.
The Standout? The cannon bastions at the top, the 360° view back to the mainland, and the small museum of personal items left behind by the patients.
The Catch? The boats do not run when the sea is rough, which can happen in sudden afternoon meltemi winds in July and August. Check the morning forecast.

Local tip: take the boat from Plaka rather than Elounda. The Plaka boats are smaller, leave more often, and you drive past the salt flats near the village of Almyros, where flamingos sometimes show up in spring. After the boat ride, eat in Plaka at a taverna called Lotos, where the octopus stifado and the deep-fried zucchini balls are both worth the stop. Most day-trippers eat in Elounda and miss the better food in the smaller village across the bay.

Rethymno Old Town and the Fortezza

Rethymno sits roughly halfway between Heraklion and Chania on the north coast, and the old town is the most intact Venetian and Ottoman quarter on the island. The Fortezza fortress looms over the harbor from a 130-meter hill, built by the Venetians in the 1570s and taken by the Ottomans in 1645. Entry to the fortress itself is free most days, only the small mosque interior charges a couple of euros.

The Vibe? Narrow alleys with small boutiques, a working harbor used by actual fishing boats, and a stretch of sand that begins 200 meters from the old town walls.
The Bill? A bottle of local Sitia wine in a taverna runs €10-15.
The Standout? Walking the outer wall of the Fortezza at 7 pm, when the light goes amber and the call to prayer drifts up from the mosques below.
The Catch? The old town feels sleepy in March and dead in November, when half the restaurants close. The summer cruise ships also flood the harbor on Wednesdays and Fridays, so check the port schedule.

Local tip: most people who visit Rethymno never go 25 kilometers south into the Amari Valley, where the village of Amari sits in an amphitheater of mountains and the small woodcarving museum in the monastery of Holokostas holds Byzantine icons you will not see in the big city museums. The Taverna tou Argyri in the village of Fourfouras, higher up toward the forest, serves the best antikristo, slow-cooked lamb on a horizontal spit, that you can find in central Crete.

The Lassithi Plateau and the Psychro Cave

About 1.5 hours southeast of Heraklion, the Lassithi Plateau sits at 850 meters in the eastern Dikti mountains, ringed by peaks and dotted with the white-sailed windmills that you see in every travel magazine. It was famously photographed by Robert Pashley in the 1830s and has been one of the most painted landscapes in Greece since. The drive up from Hersonissos is tight, switchbacked, and worth it for the cool air alone.

The Vibe? Mountain villages, apple and pear orchards, and the birthplace of Zeus (according to the locals).
The Bill? Entry to the Psychro Cave, also called the Dikteon Cave, is €6.
The Standout? The Psychro Cave itself, where the stalactite formations are genuinely impressive, though the climb down and back up is steeper than you expect.
The Catch? The cave gets very crowded from 11 am to 2 pm, and the temperature inside is around 16°C, so bring a layer even in July.

Local tip: skip the first taverna you see at the plateau and drive 4 kilometers to the village of Tzermiado, where Kerasma, a family-run place, cooks the best lamb with greens (tsigariasto) and the local mizithra pies you will eat on the trip. The plateia at Tzermiado is the kind of village square where old men sit under plane trees and watch their grandchildren play football until 10 pm. You can stay overnight at the small Pension Argyro for €40 a night and wake up to the sound of cowbells before the day-trippers arrive.

Balos Lagoon and the Boat from Kissamos

Balos sits at the northwestern tip of Crete, and the only ways in are by boat from the port of Kissamos or by a rough dirt road from a plateau above. The boat ride takes about 1 hour and the lagoon itself is shallow, warm, and the kind of turquoise that looks edited but is not. Most people do Balos as a half-day trip from Chania, leaving at 10 am and returning around 6 pm.

The Vibe? Caribbean-colored lagoon, sandbar, Gramvousa island with a Venetian fortress on the hill.
The Bill? Boat ticket €25-30, with a stop at Gramvousa for swimming and climbing.
The Standout? The 20 minute climb up to the Gramvousa fortress ruins, where the view back across the lagoon is the best free view in Crete.
The Catch? The boat gets packed. Take seasickness pills if the wind is up, and bring your own water and snacks because what they sell on board is marked up.

Local tip: most visitors see Balos, swim for an hour, and leave. If you have a 4x4 or a hired jeep, drive in from the Kaliviani side at sunrise instead. The road is 8 kilometers of potholes, but you can be on the sand by 7:30 am with the lagoon to yourself, and the drive back through the Kissamos countryside takes you past small villages and olive presses that almost no foreign tourists see. This is the kind of slow detour that turns a one-day Crete travel guide into an actual journey.

Phaistos, Agia Triada, and the Minoan South

An hour south of Heraklion, the Minoan palace of Phaistos is the second most important Bronze Age site on the island, and most people skip it on the way to Matala beach. The palace is smaller and less reconstructed than Knossos, which is the point. You can stand in the actual rooms where the Phaistos Disc was found in 1908, and you will probably have 20 other people for company rather than 2,000.

The Vibe? Quiet hilltop with views to the Messara plain and the Asteroussia mountains.
The Bill? Entry to Phaistos is €8, the small museum and palace at Agia Triada is included or €4 separately.
The Standout? The western court of Phaistos at 5 pm, when the tour buses have gone and the cicadas take over.
The Catch? The site is unshaded and gets brutally hot from noon onward. Bring a hat and water.

Local tip: drive 5 more minutes down the road to the village of Sivas, where the Manousakis winery, set in a renovated stone building, does tastings of their Vidiano and Mandilaria wines for €8 per person with a small plate of local rusks and cheese. After Phaistos, head 25 minutes west to Matala for the beach and the famous Roman-era rock-cut tombs in the cliff. The village of Matala itself got famous in the 1960s when Joni Mitchell and Joan Baez showed up with the hippie crowd, and the cave tombs are still free to visit if you walk along the beach to the far side and climb up carefully.

The South Coast Beaches Beyond Elafonissi

If you have already done Elafonissi and Balos, or you want fewer people and more road, head to the south coast between Paleochora and Agia Galini. The road winds through villages like Sougia, Loutro, and Hora Sfakion, and the beaches here are quieter because you cannot get a rental car onto most of them. The Libyan Sea is colder and rougher than the Aegean side, but the color of the water is a deeper blue.

The Vibe? Loutro is only reachable by boat or on foot, a 7-kilometer cliff path from Hora Sfakion, and has no road traffic at all.
The Bill? Loutro hotel rooms run €60-90 in summer, half that in May or October.
The Standout? Swimming off the small pier at Loutro with a view back to the white houses climbing the cliffs.
The Catch? Loutro is lovely but it is a one-horse village, so eating options are limited to the 5 or 6 tavernas on the waterfront, and the boat schedule drops to 2 or 3 ferries per day in low season.

Local tip: the best beach on the south coast, and one most guides skip entirely, is the small cove at Agios Pavlos, near the village of Agia Galini. The sand dunes, the freshwater spring that runs into the sea, and the small 14th century chapel on the headland make it the kind of place that feels undiscovered even in August. Take the rough dirt road turnoff 7 kilometers east of Agia Galini, drive slowly, and arrive before noon. You will see more Greek families on holiday than foreign tourists.

Practicalities: When to Go and What to Know in Crete

The sweet spot for a first visit is mid May to mid June, or mid September to early October. The sea is warm enough

Share this guide

Enjoyed this guide? Support the work

Filed under: best things to do in Crete

More from this city

More from Crete

Top Cocktail Bars in Crete for a Properly Made Drink

Up next

Top Cocktail Bars in Crete for a Properly Made Drink

arrow_forward