Best Vegetarian and Vegan Places in Lyon Worth Visiting
18 min read · Lyon, France · vegetarian vegan ·

Best Vegetarian and Vegan Places in Lyon Worth Visiting

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Claire Dupont

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I have been eating my way through Lyon for the better part of a decade, and I can tell you that the best vegetarian and vegan places in Lyon are not just an afterthought in this city of gastronomy. They are a genuine, thriving part of the food scene, standing shoulder to shoulder with the traditional bouchons that made this city famous. Lyon has always been a place where food matters deeply, where the market halls on the Presqu'île have fed families since the 19th century, and where the silk workers, the canuts of Croix-Rousse, ate simple, plant heavy meals out of necessity. That history of resourceful, vegetable forward cooking is something the current generation of chefs and restaurateurs has picked up and transformed into something entirely new. If you are looking for vegan restaurants Lyon has to offer, or just curious about plant based food Lyon can surprise you with, this guide is the result of years of personal meals, conversations with owners, and more than a few wrong turns down side streets in the 1st and 7th arrondissements.

Le Bouchon des Plantes, Rue Mercière, Presqu'île (1st Arrondissement)

I walked into Le Bouchon des Plantes on a rainy Tuesday evening in March, and the owner, a woman named Sylvie who used to work in one of Paul Bocuse's satellite kitchens, was hand rolling vegetable gyoza behind the counter. The place sits on Rue Mercière, that narrow pedestrian street in the heart of the old town that has been a food destination since the Renaissance, when Lyon was the crossroads of European trade routes. What makes this spot worth your time is that it takes the philosophy of the traditional Lyonnais bouchon, the idea of generous, honest, wine friendly food, and applies it entirely to vegetables. The menu changes every two weeks based on what arrives from the markets at La Croix-Rousse and Saint Antoine, and on the night I visited, the standout was a slow roasted celeriac with miso glaze and toasted hazelnuts that I still think about. They also do a vegan version of quenelles, the iconic Lyonnais dumpling, using a chickpea and kelp base that is startlingly close to the original in texture.

The best time to go is weekday lunch, between 12:00 and 13:30, when the kitchen is at its most relaxed and Sylvie herself often comes out to explain the dishes. On weekends the place fills up with tourists who have read about it online, and the intimate atmosphere, there are only about 20 seats, gets a bit chaotic. One detail most visitors miss is the small courtyard out back, accessible through a door near the restrooms, where you can eat outside when the weather cooperates. It is not listed on the menu or advertised, but if you ask politely, they will seat you there.

Local Insider Tip: "Ask for the 'plat du marché' even if it is not on the printed menu. Sylvie always has one extra dish she has been experimenting with, and it is usually the best thing in the house. I have had a smoked beetroot tartare and a fermented turnip gratin this way, both unforgettable."

Le Bouchon des Plantes connects to Lyon's identity in a way that feels natural rather than forced. This is a city that has always valued the market, the season, the ingredient, and this restaurant simply strips away the meat without losing any of that soul. If you only visit one vegan restaurant Lyon has in the old town, make it this one.

Kitchen Café, Rue de Cuire, Croix-Rousse (4th Arrondissement)

Kitchen Café is the kind of place that makes you wonder why anyone still argues that plant based food Lyon style has to be boring. Tucked into Rue de Cuire on the slopes of Croix-Rousse, the historic silk weaving district, this café and small restaurant occupies a former canut workshop with the original wooden beams and tall windows still intact. I went on a Saturday morning in late October, and the place was full of local families and a few cyclists who had ridden up the steep hill from the Saône river. The brunch menu is entirely vegan, and the pancakes with coconut cream and seasonal fruit are genuinely some of the best I have had anywhere in France. They also do a savory bowl with roasted sweet potato, black rice, pickled red onion, and a tahini dressing that is hearty enough to fuel an afternoon of walking through the traboules, those hidden passageways that connect buildings throughout Croix-Rousse.

The best time to visit is weekend brunch, arriving by 10:00 to avoid the queue that forms by 11:00. On weekdays the café operates on a more limited menu, focusing on lunch and pastries, which are also excellent. The outdoor terrace on Rue de Cuire is pleasant in spring and autumn but gets quite cold in winter because the street is shaded by the tall buildings on both sides. One thing most tourists do not know is that Kitchen Café sources its coffee from a small roaster in the 7th arrondissement called Mokxa, which is itself worth a visit if you are serious about coffee.

Local Insider Tip: "Sit at the counter near the kitchen if you can. The chef, Mathieu, sometimes sends out small tasting portions of new dishes he is developing, and if you show genuine interest, he will come out and talk you through them. I learned about his technique for fermenting cashew cheese this way, and it changed how I cook at home."

Kitchen Café represents something important about the evolution of Croix-Rousse. This neighborhood was historically one of the poorest in Lyon, home to workers who ate simple, affordable food out of necessity. The fact that it has become one of the city's most exciting food neighborhoods, with places like this leading the charge on meat free eating Lyon residents are proud of, feels like a continuation of that story rather than a departure from it.

Le Patio, Rue Burdeau, 1st Arrondissement

Le Patio is a small vegetarian restaurant on Rue Burdeau, the street that runs along the top of the Montée de la Grande Côte connecting the Presqu'île to Croix-Rousse. I visited on a Thursday evening in July, and the dining room, which opens onto a small interior patio with climbing plants and string lights, was one of the most peaceful eating experiences I have had in Lyon. The menu is entirely vegetarian with many vegan options clearly marked, and the kitchen focuses on Mediterranean and Middle Eastern influences. The mezze platter, which includes homemade hummus, baba ganoush, stuffed vine leaves, and a smoky eggplant dip, is generous enough for two people and pairs naturally with the Lebanese wines on the list. I also had a roasted cauliflower steak with chermoula and pomegranate that was one of the best vegetable dishes I ate all year.

The best time to go is early evening, around 19:00, when you can catch the last of the natural light filtering through the patio glass roof. Later in the evening the atmosphere becomes more romantic and the tables fill up quickly, especially on Fridays and Saturdays. One detail most visitors overlook is that Rue Burdeau is also home to several small art galleries, and the owners of Le Patio sometimes display work by local artists on the walls, which rotates every few months. It is worth arriving a little early to walk the street and peek into the galleries before your reservation.

Local Insider Tip: "If you are dining alone or as a couple, ask for the table in the far corner of the patio. It is partially hidden behind a large fig tree in a pot, and it feels like your own private dining room. I have never seen it offered to larger groups, so it is usually available for parties of two."

Le Patio fits into the character of this part of Lyon, the border zone between the old town and Croix-Rousse, which has always been a place of mixing and exchange. The food reflects that spirit of openness, drawing on traditions from across the Mediterranean in a city that has historically looked south toward Italy, North Africa, and the Middle East for culinary inspiration.

Culina Hortus, Rue de l'Abbé Rozier, 1st Arrondissement

Culina Hortus is not strictly a vegan restaurant Lyon visitors might expect from this list, but it deserves a place here because the vegetable dishes are so extraordinary that they rival anything on the meat based menu. Located on Rue de l'Abbé Rozier, just a few minutes walk from the Place des Terreaux, this fine dining restaurant focuses on plants, herbs, and flowers sourced from its own garden and from small producers in the Rhône-Alpes region. I went for dinner on a Wednesday in September, and the tasting menu, which can be ordered fully vegetarian, was one of the most memorable meals of my life. A dish of raw turnip shaved paper thin and dressed with walnut oil and wild sorrel was so delicate it barely seemed to exist on the plate, while a roasted Jerusalem artichoke with black truffle and a fermented barley broth was deeply savory and satisfying.

The best time to visit is for dinner on a weeknight, when the dining room is quieter and the chef, Adrien Zedda, has time to come out and discuss the dishes with guests. The lunch menu is more accessible in price and still excellent, but the full expression of the kitchen's talent comes in the evening tasting menu. One thing most tourists do not know is that Culina Hortus grows many of its own herbs and edible flowers in a small garden plot just outside the city, near Villeurbanne, and the menu is directly shaped by what is available from that garden on any given week.

Local Insider Tip: "Tell them when you book that you are interested in the vegetarian tasting menu specifically. They will sometimes add an extra amuse bouche or a palate cleanser that is not on the standard version, because the chef enjoys the challenge of building a full arc around vegetables. I got a frozen cucumber and elderflower sphere this way that was transcendent."

Culina Hortus represents the highest expression of what plant based food Lyon can achieve. In a city where gastronomy is taken as seriously as religion, this restaurant proves that vegetables can be the star of a world class meal without any apology or compromise.

L'Entrecôte du 6ème, Avenue de Saxe, 6th Arrondissement

Despite its name, which might suggest a meat focused establishment, L'Entrecôte du 6ème has become one of the most reliable spots for meat free eating Lyon has in the 6th arrondissement. Located on the wide, tree lined Avenue de Saxe, this neighborhood bistro offers a daily changing menu that always includes at least two fully vegan main courses alongside its traditional offerings. I stopped in for lunch on a Monday in February and had a gratin of winter vegetables with a creamy cashew sauce and fresh thyme that was exactly the kind of warming, unpretentious food you want on a grey Lyon winter day. The owner, who grew up in the neighborhood, told me that the vegan options were added after regular customers kept asking for them, and they have become some of the most popular dishes on the menu.

The best time to go is weekday lunch, when the formule du jour, a two course meal with coffee, is priced under 15 euros and represents one of the best values in the area. The dinner menu is more limited and slightly more expensive, but the atmosphere in the evening is lovely, with candlelight and a small wine list focused on natural wines from the Beaujolais and Côtes du Rhône. One detail most visitors miss is that the restaurant shares a building with a small independent bookshop, and you are welcome to browse the shelves while waiting for your table.

Local Insider Tip: "If the daily soup is the potage de légumes racines, order it without hesitation. It is made with whatever root vegetables arrived that morning from the market, and the cook has a trick of finishing it with a swirl of hazelnut oil that makes it taste far more complex than the ingredient list would suggest."

L'Entrecôte du 6ème is a reminder that the best vegan restaurants Lyon offers are not always the ones that advertise themselves as such. Sometimes the most satisfying plant based food Lyon can show you comes from a neighborhood spot that simply decided to cook great vegetables because their customers asked for it.

Bloom, Rue de la République, 1st Arrondissement

Bloom is a vegan restaurant and juice bar on Rue de la République, the long shopping street that runs through the center of the Presqu'île. I visited on a Friday afternoon in May, and the bright, airy interior, all white walls and hanging plants, felt like a breath of fresh air after the noise and crowds outside. The menu is entirely plant based, with a focus on bowls, salads, raw dishes, and cold pressed juices. The Buddha bowl, with quinoa, avocado, roasted chickpeas, pickled vegetables, and a turmeric tahini dressing, is the signature dish and it is genuinely excellent, fresh and filling without being heavy. I also tried the raw lasagna, made with layers of zucchini, sun dried tomato paste, and a macadamia ricotta, which was creative and satisfying in a way that raw food does not always manage.

The best time to go is lunchtime on a weekday, when the service is quick and you can get a table without waiting. On weekends the place is packed with shoppers taking a break from the stores on Rue de la République, and the wait for a table can stretch to 30 minutes or more. One thing most tourists do not know is that Bloom offers a loyalty card that gives you a free juice after every ten purchases, and the staff will stamp it even if you are clearly a visitor, which is a nice touch.

Local Insider Tip: "Order the 'Green Glow' juice to go and drink it while walking down to the Rhône river banks, about five minutes away. There is a spot near the Passerelle du Collège bridge where you can sit on the stone steps and watch the water, and it is one of the most peaceful places in central Lyon."

Bloom fits into the modern, health conscious side of Lyon's food culture, the side that coexists with the rich, butter heavy traditions of the bouchons. Rue de la République has always been a commercial street, a place of exchange and new ideas, and a vegan juice bar feels perfectly at home here.

Le Jardin des Deux Places, Place Guichard, 3rd Arrondissement

Le Jardin des Deux Places is a vegetarian restaurant on Place Guichard, the large square in the 3rd arrondissement that hosts one of Lyon's best outdoor markets on Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday mornings. I went for lunch on a market day in April, and the energy of the square, with its stalls of cheese, charcuterie, produce, and flowers, set the perfect scene for a meal that celebrated vegetables. The restaurant's menu is built around what is available from the market that day, and the chef, a young woman named Camille who trained at a farm to table restaurant in the Drôme, creates dishes that are simple but precise. A plate of asparagus with a soft boiled egg, brown butter, and toasted almonds was the highlight of my visit, though the vegan option of roasted beetroot with lentils and a mustard vinaigrette was equally well executed.

The best time to go is on a market day morning, arriving around 12:00 to beat the lunch rush and to have time to walk through the market beforehand. The restaurant has a small terrace on the square that is lovely in spring and summer but is exposed to wind in winter, so dress accordingly. One detail most visitors do not know is that the market on Place Guichard is one of the few in Lyon where you can find produce from the maraîchers, the market gardeners who have farmed the flat lands east of the city for centuries, and some of the vegetables sold there are grown within 15 kilometers of the square.

Local Insider Tip: "After lunch, walk two blocks east to Rue de Créqui and look for the fromagerie called La Mère Richard. They do not sell vegan cheese, but they will let you taste their aged Comté for free if you ask nicely, and it is a masterclass in what milk can become. It helps you understand why Lyon takes food so seriously."

Le Jardin des Deux Places is a direct expression of Lyon's market culture, the idea that great food begins not in the kitchen but in the soil and the season. For anyone interested in plant based food Lyon style, this restaurant and its surrounding market are essential.

L'Opéra du 4ème, Rue de la Charité, 2nd Arrondissement

L'Opéra du 4ème is a small vegan bistro on Rue de la Charité, in the southern part of the Presqu'île near the Musée des Confluences. I visited on a Saturday evening in November, and the warm, low lit interior felt like stepping into someone's dining room rather than a restaurant. The menu is short, about five or six dishes, and changes weekly. On the night I was there, the standout was a mushroom and walnut pâté served with sourdough toast and cornichons, followed by a slow cooked tomato and white bean stew with rosemary that was deeply comforting. The dessert, a dark chocolate mousse made with aquafaba instead of eggs, was rich and silky and convinced me that vegan pastry has fully come of age.

The best time to go is dinner on a weekend, when the chef pulls out the more ambitious dishes and the atmosphere is at its most convivial. On weekdays the menu is simpler and more focused on lunch service, which is still good but less exciting. One thing most tourists do not know is that Rue de la Charité is one of the oldest streets in Lyon, dating back to Roman times, and the building that houses L'Opéra du 4ème has foundations that are nearly 2,000 years old. The owner told me she likes to think that people have been gathering to eat on this spot since the city was called Lugdunum.

Local Insider Tip: "They do not take reservations for parties smaller than four, so if you are two, just show up at 19:30 and put your name on the list. While you wait, walk two minutes down to the Saône river and watch the lights reflect on the water. By the time you come back, your table will almost certainly be ready."

L'Opéra du 4ème is proof that the best vegetarian and vegan places in Lyon do not need to be large or flashy to be extraordinary. Sometimes all you need is a good cook, a short menu, and a room where people feel welcome.

When to Go and What to Know

Lyon's food culture is deeply seasonal, and this is especially true for plant based food Lyon restaurants serve. Spring, from April through June, is the best time to visit if you want to see vegetable cookery at its peak, with asparagus, peas, strawberries, and young greens appearing on every menu. Autumn, September through November, is a close second, bringing mushrooms, squash, chestnuts, and the first Beaujolais Nouveau, which is always vegan friendly. Winter can be excellent too, but some smaller places reduce their hours or close for holidays in late December and early January, so check ahead.

Most vegan restaurants Lyon offers are concentrated in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th arrondissements, all of which are walkable from each other if you do not mind a bit of climbing between the Presqu'île and Croix-Rousse. The metro system is efficient and cheap, and a day pass costs under 6 euros. If you are planning to visit the markets, remember that the big ones, like the one on Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse on Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday mornings, and the one on Quai Saint Antoine every morning except Monday, are where many of the chefs buy their ingredients. Going to the market before lunch gives you a context for what you are about to eat that makes the meal richer.

One final note. Lyon is a city that takes its food personally, and the people who cook here, whether in a bouchon or a vegan bistro, are proud of what they do. If you tell a server or a chef that you are vegetarian or vegan and that you have come to Lyon specifically to eat well, they will almost always go out of their way to help you. That generosity of spirit is the real secret of eating in this city, and it is what keeps me coming back year after year.

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