Best Things to Do in Avignon for First Timers (and Repeat Visitors)

Photo by  Frédéric Barriol

16 min read · Avignon, France · things to do ·

Best Things to Do in Avignon for First Timers (and Repeat Visitors)

SB

Words by

Sophie Bernard

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If you have ever dreamed of Provence without the lavender-cliché overload, the best things to do in Avignon tend to circle back to stone, popes, and the kind of slow afternoon that turns into a long dinner. I have lived here long enough to know which corners hold up in July and which ones only make sense in October. This guide is the one I send to friends before they land, and I have updated it more times than I can count. Treat it as a starting point, not a checklist, and Avignon will reward you.

The Palais des Papes and Its Surrounding Squares

The Palace Itself

You cannot write an Avignon travel guide without starting here, so let's get the heavy hitter out of the way. The Palais des Papes sits on Place du Palais, right at the top of the old town, a 10-minute walk from the central train station if you cut through Rue de la République. Built mostly in the 14th century when seven French popes decided Rome was too dangerous, it remains the largest Gothic palace in Europe. Most people spend 90 minutes inside, which is enough to see the frescoed chapels, the Great Audience Hall, and the rooftop terrace views over the Rhône. Locals tend to go on the first Sunday of the month when entry is free, though lines wrap around the cathedral.

The Vibe? Big, bare, and surprisingly severe for a pope palace.
The Bill? Around €12 for a standard ticket, free on the first Sunday of the month.
The Standout? Climbing up to the tower terrace for the view of the Rhône and the bridge.
The Catch? It gets brutally hot in the upper rooms in July and August, no air conditioning.
The Insider Move? Go right at opening (9 a.m.) and do the Histopad tablet tour, which projects medieval scenes onto the walls. It sounds gimmicky but works, especially for repeat visitors who already know the basics.

Place du Palais at Dusk

The square in front of the palace is where I take every friend who visits for the first time. It is full of tourists during the day, but at around 8 p.m. in summer the restaurants turn on their fairy lights and the cathedral glows. The terrace of La Mère Germaine is overpriced, but it is the right place for a single pastis if you want to feel the history without committing to a full meal. Watch how the light moves across the Petit Palais across the street. Most people walk past it on their way to the bridge and miss the 15th-century Italian paintings inside, which is a shame because the entry is free.

The Standout? Watching the facade of the cathedral catch the last sunlight around 8:45 p.m. in summer.
The Catch? The mimes and living statues can be a bit much if you are trying to have a quiet drink.

The Pont Saint-Bénézet and the Rhône

The Famous Bridge

The Pont Saint-Bénézet, or Pont d'Avignon, ends abruptly in the middle of the Rhône because the rest collapsed in 1660 after centuries of floods. It is one of those things you have seen on a hundred postcards, but standing on it changes the perspective. The entry is on the Avignon side, and you can walk out about halfway before a metal railing stops you. The chapel of Saint-Bénézet sits on the second pier, and it is genuinely moving once you read the story of the shepherd boy who, according to legend, was told by angels to build the bridge. Most tours whip through in 20 minutes. I tell everyone to stay 45 and sit on the stone edge facing Villeneuve-lès-Avignon across the river.

The Vibe? Windy, slightly melancholy, and full of swallows in the evening.
The Bill? €5 for adults, free for kids under 8, combined tickets available with the Palais.
The Catch? In August the bridge is packed shoulder to shoulder. Early morning before 10 a.m. is the only sane time.
The Insider Move? Cross over to Île de la Barthelasse afterward. The little ferry boat, the Bac, leaves from just past the bridge and costs about €1.50. The island has walking paths and is where Avignonnais actually go to swim in summer.

Across the River: Villeneuve-lès-Avignon

Most guides barely mention Villeneuve, which is a mistake. It is technically a separate town in the Gard department, but it sits right across the Rhône and is part of the lived experience in Avignon. The Tour Philippe le Bel, a 14th-century keep built by the same pope who finished the palace, gives you a view back toward Avignon that is actually better than the one from the Palais itself. Entry is around €3.50 and the climb is about 140 steps. From the top on a clear day you can see the Alpilles, Mont Ventoux, and the whole curve of the river.

The Standout? The view, hands down, especially around an hour before sunset.
The Catch? The last entry is usually 45 minutes before closing, and the signs are confusing. Check the posted hours before you start climbing.

The Old Town Streets You Should Actually Walk Down

Rue des Teinturiers

This is the street I send everyone to who wants to see how Avignon actually feels when you strip away the tourist layer. Rue des Teinturiers, in the southeast corner of the old town, follows a small canal once used by dyers (the name means "dyers' street"). Plane trees lean over the water, and the stone workshops have been turned into galleries, antique shops, and a few of the best restaurants in the city. The walk from Place Pie to the end of the street is about 15 minutes, and you should not rush it. Stop at the small bookshop near the corner of Rue des Limas, run by a man named Jean-Marc who has lived here for 40 years. He will tell you which book about Avignon is the most accurate, and he is almost always right.

The Vibe? Quiet, leafy, and cool even in August because of the water.
The Standout? Lunch at La Cuisine du Marché, tucked slightly off the street, where the chef uses ingredients from the Les Halles market.
The Catch? Many shops close for two to three hours at lunchtime, which is French and therefore non-negotiable.
The Insider Move? On Saturday morning there is a small organic market at the end of the street near Place des Carmes. Locals shop there, and the bread from the Boulangerie du Grès is worth the detour on its own.

Place de l'Horloge

The main square of Avignon has the town hall, the opera house, and a carousel that has been here since 1922. Place de l'Horloge is where you will end up most evenings whether you planned to or not, because every restaurant in the pedestrian zone funnels toward it. I avoid the brasseries on the square itself for dinner because the food is uneven and the prices are 30% higher than two streets over. The carousel, though, is genuinely old, hand-painted, and worth a turn if you are traveling with kids. The covered market, Les Halles, is a five-minute walk away on Place Pie and is the real food heart of the city.

The Vibe? Festive in the evening, slightly tacky during the day, and totally packed during the Festival in July.
The Standout? A glass of local Côtes du Rhône at the bar of the Hôtel de l'Horloge, which overlooks the square from its terrace.
The Catch? The Festival d'Avignon in July transforms the whole square, and prices for drinks triple. If you do not have a theatre ticket, the experience is more stressful than enjoyable.

Food and Markets in Avignon

Les Halles d'Avignon

If you only eat one meal indoors in Avignon, make it at Les Halles on Place Pie. The covered market has been running since 1903 and is the place where restaurant owners shop before service. You will see the same fishmonger who supplies the Michelin-starred kitchens selling you oysters to take back to your rental. Most stalls close by 1:30 p.m. on weekdays and by 2 p.m. on Saturdays. The market is open again from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays in summer. Inside, look for Chez Lulu for the best socca (a chickpea pancake from nearby Nice tradition) and the cheese stall run by the Faure family for Banon, a local goat cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves.

The Vibe? Loud, fragrant, and full of regulars who know the stallholders by first name.
The Bill? A glass of Bandol rosé and a plate of charcuterie at the central bar: around €14.
The Standout? The Saturday morning market spills outside onto Place Pie with produce from the Comtat Venaissin.
The Catch? The market is closed on Mondays, which catches a lot of visitors off guard.
The Insider Move? Most stallholders will vacuum-pack cheese or charcuterie for travel if you ask the day before. They will also tell you which wines to pair, since the Rhône Valley starts just east of the city.

Restaurant Christian Etienne

This is the place I take my parents when they visit. Christian Etienne, a former chef at the Palais des Papes who set up his own restaurant on Place des Corps Saints, does the kind of Provençal cooking that the region is actually known for, not the watered-down version. The restaurant is in a 12th-century building, and you can eat in the stone cellar or in the upstairs dining room. The lunch menu during the week is around €35 for three courses, which is fair for the quality. The dessert, a small lavender crème brûlée, is the dish I think about weeks after.

The Vibe? Calm, slightly formal, with a chef who actually comes out to talk to tables.
The Bill? Lunch menu €35, dinner around €55 to €75 depending on wine.
The Standout? The pigeon with beetroot and the local white wine, a Côtes du Rhône Villages.
The Catch? It is closed on Sundays and during parts of August. Book at least a week ahead in spring.

Activities Avignon Locals Actually Do

The Rocher des Doms

Just behind the Palais des Papes, the Rocher des Doms is the small green park that sits on a rocky outcrop above the Rhône. It is the closest thing Avignon has to a "locals' garden," and I go there most Sunday mornings. The walk up takes about 10 minutes from the palace, and the view over the river and across to the Alpilles is one of the best free experiences in Avignon. There is a small café at the top that does decent coffee and decent croissants. The park is also where you find the remnants of the original 12th-century cathedral, including a few carved stones that are easy to miss.

The Vibe? Calm, family-friendly, and shaded even at noon in summer.
The Standout? The view from the belvedere over the rooftops of Villeneuve and the Fort Saint-André.
The Catch? The paths are gravel and tricky in heels, so do not wear anything you would not want to walk to the bridge in.
The Insider Move? Go in the late afternoon when the local pétanque players start gathering in the gravel area near the entrance. They are welcoming to spectators, and you will learn more about Avignon from one conversation than from any guidebook.

Rue du Vieux Sextier and Place Crillon

For a quieter evening drink, I prefer Place Crillon over Place de l'Horloge. The square is in the heart of the old town on Rue du Vieux Sextier, which gets its name from the old sextarius, a Roman measure. Most of the bars here are owned by people who actually live in Avignon, and the crowd is a mix of theater people during July and locals year-round. Wine bar Le 46 is a small spot with a good selection of Rhône reds by the glass and a cheese plate that changes daily. Around the corner, the Cinévox is a small independent cinema that shows original-language films with French subtitles on Tuesday nights.

The Vibe? Intimate and grown-up, the kind of place where conversations stay late.
The Bill? Glass of Châteauneuf-du-Pape around €9, cheese plate €12.
The Standout? Talking to the bartender about which Côtes du Rhône to take home.
The Catch? The outdoor seating disappears after about 11 p.m. when the neighbors enforce noise rules, which is correct, but worth knowing.

A Day Trip to Châteauneuf-du-Pape

You cannot talk about experiences in Avignon without mentioning the wine village 12 kilometers north. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is reachable by bus from the Avignon bus station in about 25 minutes, and it is one of the most important wine appellations in France. The ruined papal summer palace sits above the village, and you can walk up to it for free. The village itself is small enough to cover in two hours, but the wine cellars (caves) are the real reason to come. Domaine du Pegau and Château La Nerthe both do tastings by appointment, and most charge around €10 to €20 for a flight of four to six wines. The bus back to Avignon runs until about 7 p.m. in summer, but schedules thin out the rest of the year.

The Vibe? Sun-bleached, slow, and full of wine barrels in stone caves.
The Bill? Tasting flight €10 to €25, bottles from €18 for basic village-level reds.
The Standout? The Grenache-based reds, which are nothing like what you find in supermarkets.
The Catch? The summer heat bounces off the stone buildings, and there is almost no shade. Hat, water, sunscreen.

The Avignon Festival and When to Avoid (or Embrace) It

The Festival d'Avignon in July is the largest performing arts event in France, and it takes over the entire city. If you are a theater lover, this is the time to come. The main festival at the Cour d'Honneur of the Palais des Papes is the big draw, and tickets go on sale in June and often sell out within hours for the most famous shows. The off-program, called Le Off, runs hundreds of smaller shows across the city, and you can usually pick up tickets the day of for €10 to €20.

If theater is not your thing, July is the worst time to visit Avignon. Hotel prices triple, restaurants are overbooked, and the streets near Place de l'Horloge become almost un navigable after 8 p.m. Locals, including me, tend to leave the old town for the hills during the festival. The shoulder months, May, June, September, and October, are when the city feels most like itself.

The Standout? Watching a play in the courtyard of the Palais, even if the acoustics are not great, is a memory that does not fade.
The Catch? Booking a hotel more than four months ahead is not optional in July.

When to Go and What to Know

Avignon has two distinct high seasons, and they require different strategies. The Festival in July is the cultural peak, with average daytime temperatures around 30°C. August is the family holiday peak, with temperatures often hitting 35°C and many restaurants closing for two to three weeks because the owners are on their own holidays. Late September and October are the wine harvest months, with cooler weather (around 22°C) and harvest festivals in surrounding villages. Winter is quiet, with short days and some museums on reduced hours, but the indoor sites (Palais, Petit Palais, Musée Angladon) are open and uncrowded.

A few practical details. The old town is mostly pedestrian, which makes walking the main way to get around, but the cobblestones are uneven and heels are a bad idea. The city bus network, TCRA, runs from about 5:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., and a single ticket is €1.40. There is a small free shuttle, the Baladine, that loops around the old town, useful if you are staying outside the walls. The Avignon TGV station is about 4 kilometers from the center, and the local train, the TER, is more central but slower. Taxis from the TGV to the old town cost around €15 to €20, but drivers sometimes refuse short fares. Uber is present but limited.

Dress modestly if you plan to enter any of the churches, especially the Cathedral of Notre-Dame des Doms next to the palace. The Mistral wind, which comes down the Rhône valley, can be brutal in February and March, gusting up to 90 km/h. Locals call it "the Mistral" and it can last three days at a time. Bring a scarf even in spring.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do the most popular attractions in Avignon require advance ticket booking, especially during peak season?

Yes, the Palais des Papes and the Pont Saint-Bénézet allow on-site purchase, but during the Festival in July and the August long weekend (around August 15) lines at the palace regularly exceed 90 minutes. The official online ticketing platform for the Palais opens 60 days ahead, and timed entry slots from 9 a.m. to 11 a.m. tend to be the first to sell out. The Pont Saint-Bénézet has no timed entry but closes during strong Mistral winds, often for two to three consecutive days between January and March.

What are the best free or low-cost tourist places in Avignon that are genuinely worth the visit?

The Rocher des Doms park is free, open daily from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. in summer (shorter hours in winter), and the view from the belvedere is comparable to paid viewpoints. The Petit Palais on Place du Palais has free entry and holds around 300 Italian and Provençal paintings from the 14th to 16th centuries, though it is closed on Tuesdays. The Collection Lambert on Rue de la République charges €10 and shows contemporary art in an 18th-century mansion, free on the first Wednesday of each month. Walking the medieval ramparts is free, and the Calvet Museum offers free entry to its permanent collection on the first Sunday of every month.

What is the safest and most reliable way to get around Avignon as a solo traveler?

Walking is the safest and most reliable option within the 4.3 km of medieval ramparts that enclose the old town, where 80% of the sights are concentrated. Outside the walls, the TCRA bus network has 30 routes, with Line 1 connecting the TGV station to the center every 12 minutes during the day, a single ticket costs €1.40. The Baladine shuttle (red electric vehicles) is free and loops the old town every 20 minutes from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Pickpocketing in the old town is rare but not zero, particularly at the Palais entrance and on the Pont Saint-Bénézet; crossbody bags worn in front are the local habit.

Is it possible to walk between the main sightseeing spots in Avignon, or is local transport necessary?

Yes, walking is sufficient for all the main sights. The Palais des Papes, Pont Saint-Bénézet, Place de l'Horloge, Les Halles market, and the Rocher des Doms

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