Most Historic Pubs in Medellin With Real Character and Good Stories

Photo by  Brenda Zhang

17 min read · Medellin, Colombia · historic pubs ·

Most Historic Pubs in Medellin With Real Character and Good Stories

AR

Words by

Andres Restrepo

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Eight decades of plastic chairs, spilled aguardiente, and arguments about football. That is what the historic pubs in Medellin have soaked into their walls, and once you sit down in one of them with a cold Poker on a Thursday night, you understand why nobody in this city is in a hurry to leave.

I grew up in Envigado and moved into the center when I was nineteen, partly for university, partly because my uncle insisted that a real paisa learns to drink in the old bars Medellin has kept alive through drug wars, boom years, and every imaginable trend in nightlife. He was right. These are not themed bars, and nobody here is performing nostalgia. They are just places that stayed themselves while the rest of the city got renovated around them.

Below is the list I give to friends who visit and want more than a rooftop cocktail bar in El Poblado. Some of these places are easy to find, some are practically invisible from the street, but every single one has a story, a regular crowd, and a reason to come back.

Drinking Through the Old Center: Plaza de Cisneros and San Antonio

1. Cantina Cien Fuegos, Calle 42 near Plaza de Cisneros

This is the kind of place you walk past three times before you notice it. Tucked into a ground floor of a worn building across from Plaza Cisneros and the famous Luz de la Memoria sculpture, Cien Fuegos has been pouring since the late 1990s, which makes it old by El Poblado standards but almost newborn compared to what is next door. The ceiling is low, the walls are crammed with old records and framed posters, and the jukebox still takes a 500-peso coin if you want to pick the next track.

Go on a Wednesday or Thursday. Fridays get slammed with university students from nearby UPB, and the standing-room situation turns the small room into a sauna by midnight. Order a Club Colombia Dorada on draft if they have it, or a neat Aguardiente Antioqueño if you want to commit to the local flavor. The empanadas here come from the doña two doors down and arrive slightly greasy in a paper cone, which is exactly how they should be.

This place connects to the broader story of how Plaza Cisneros, once a notorious stretch during the worst years of the city, slowly cleaned itself up through public art projects. Cien Fuegos survived that transformation without changing a single thing inside, and that stubbornness is part of why regulars keep coming back.

Local Insider Tip: "Sit at the bar, not at the back tables. The back gets the Wi-Fi signal from the neighboring building, which means the speakers cut in and out during reggaeton sets. The bar stays loud and clear, and the owner will absolutely talk your ear off about jazz if you ask about the records on the wall."

If you only have one night in the center and want to understand what the old drinking culture of Medellin feels like before the gentrification wave finished, start here.

2. El Vecino, Carrera 36 with Calle 8 in Guayaquil

Walking into El Vecino feels like walking into a friend's living room, except your friend has been collecting vinyl and antique radios for thirty years and also happens to know every taxi driver in the barrio. This is one of those heritage pubs Medellin locals reference when they want to explain why the city has a deeper bar scene than visitors assume. It opened in the early 2000s but feels anchored to a different era entirely, with mismatched wooden chairs, peeling paint, and a wall mural that the owner painted himself over a single weekend.

The crowd is a mix of journalists from nearby El Colombiano offices, musicians, and a few longtime regulars who arrive at six sharp every evening for their first Poker. Order the house michelada, which is heavy on the lime and comes with a stick of celery that you will not expect but will end up loving. Food is limited to a small menu of chorizos and arepas, both solid.

Best time to visit is Sunday afternoon, when the place opens early and the surrounding streets of Guayaquil are quiet enough that you can actually hear the music from inside.

Local Insider Tip: "Ask for the backroom. There is a small hidden patio through the kitchen that fits about six people, and most tourists never see it. On hot nights the owners open it up and light citronella candles, and it turns into the best seat in the house."

Do not come here expecting polished service. The bartender might be in the middle of an argument about a Deportivo Independiente Medellín game. Slow down, order another round, and let the night happen.

3. La Tiendecita Roja, Calle 10 near Carrera 36

True confession: I did not know La Tiendecita existed until a taxi driver pointed it out to me four years ago. It has been open since 1996 and sits on a stretch of Calle 10 that most guides skip over. The exterior is plain red paint with a hand-painted sign, and the interior is essentially a narrow rectangle lined with bottles and a single wooden bar top that has been polished smooth by two decades of elbows.

This is one of the most authentic classic drinking spots Medellin has left, because the owners have refused to put up a sign on the main road and rely entirely on word of mouth. The regulars include a retired boxer who drinks rum, two sisters who own a hat shop on Carrera 37, and a man who claims to have known Pablo Escobar's driver, though nobody pushes him on the details.

Order a rum and Coke made with the aged Ron Medellín they keep behind the counter. If you want food, walk to the window of the empanada place next door and bring them in. The owners will not mind as long as you use their napkins.

Local Insider Tip: "Cash only, and bring small bills. They sometimes run out of change on busy Saturday nights, and the owner will make you wait until a neighbor comes in to break your 50,000-peso note. Go before 8pm to skip the issue entirely."

This is the place to come when you want to feel the texture of old Medellin without paying a cover charge or fighting through a velvet rope.

The Plaza Botero Side: Heritage Pubs Among the Sculptures

4. Bar Sevilla, Carrera 49 with Calle 52, near Plaza de Botero

Plaza Botero is full of tourists photographing the giant bronze sculptures, but just one block east sits a building that has housed a bar since 1959. Bar Sevilla is not advertised, and it does not have a website, but it has a marble-topped bar, ceiling fans that genuinely work, and a clientele that has been drinking here since long before Botero donated his胖 sculptures to the city.

The room is long, dim, and smells of cigarette smoke from the era when that was still allowed, soaked so deeply into the upholstery that you almost taste it. Order a Cerveza Poker, the local lager that is somehow both cheap and good, and pair it with a small plate of fritanga if they have it that night. The fritanga, for the uninitiated, is a heavy platter of fried pork ribs, intestines, potato, and arepa, served with lime.

This is one of the heritage pubs Medellin still has in the downtown core, and it connects to the city's art and literary past. Gabriel García Márquez reportedly drank here in the 1960s when he was visiting from Cartagena, and the regulars like to remind you of that whether or not they were alive at the time.

Best time to come is Saturday afternoon between 4 and 6pm, when the plaza fills with families and the bar fills with the after-work crowd. Avoid it after 10pm on weekends unless you want to stand in line behind students.

Local Insider Tip: "Sit at the bar on the left side, closest to the door. There is a small wooden box of aged aguardiente there that they will pour from if you ask nicely and look like you actually want to taste it, not just take a selfie. The bottle is not on the menu."

If you want to understand how downtown Medellin functions as a living neighborhood and not just a tourist photo, this bar is the most honest classroom in the city.

5. La Cantina de la Abuela, Calle 54 near Carrera 49

La Cantina de la Abuela is a small bar on a quieter stretch of Calle 54 that has been operating under various names since the late 1970s. The current owners took it over in 2005 and kept the original wooden furniture, the old jukebox, and the rule that you cannot order anything sweet before 9pm. It is the kind of rule that sounds made up until you spend two hours there and realize it actually changes the mood of the room.

The crowd skews older and includes a heavy contingent of professors from Universidad de Antioquia, which is just ten blocks away. Order a dry martini if you want to surprise the bartender, or stick with the local custom and ask for a media de aguardiente, which is half a bottle of Antioqueño served neat in a small glass. The empanadas here are some of the best in the center, made on-site by the owner's mother every morning.

The connection to local history here is less dramatic than Escobar or Botero, and that is the point. This is what old bars Medellin look like when they survive on regulars, not legends. It is the everyday cultural fabric.

Local Insider Tip: "On the first Friday of every month the owner hosts a small poetry reading in the back. There is no sign, no schedule online, and no cover. Just show up around 8pm and ask if there is a reading that night. If there is, sit in the back and buy at least one round for the poets."

6. Café Bar Velázquez, Carrera 43 near Calle 53

Velázquez has been pouring coffee by day and aguardiente by night since 1986, and it occupies one of the few original storefronts on this stretch of Carrera 43 that has not been gutted and rebuilt. The exterior still has the original wooden doors with iron handles, and the inside is a long hall with tiled floors and a tin ceiling that you have to see in person to believe.

This is the most historically layered of the classic drinking spots Medellin has in this neighborhood, because it has served coffee to lawyers from the nearby courthouse, beers to taxi drivers on break, and on one undocumented evening in 1989, allegedly a meeting between two rival political figures that nobody will discuss in detail. The owner at the time was paid to forget what he saw, and his son, who runs the bar now, refuses to either confirm or deny the story.

Order a Cafe_velázquez, which is their signature espresso served with a small glass of aguardiente on the side. It sounds like a stunt, but it works. If you are not feeling brave, the Aguila beer on draft is perfectly fine.

Best time to visit is weekday lunch, when the lawyers are inside and the street outside has a strange calm that you will not find anywhere else in the center on a Tuesday.

Local Insider Tip: "Order the espresso with aguardiente combo at the bar, not at a table. The bartender who makes it has been there for twenty-three years, and she will pour the aguardiente from a different bottle than the one they give to tables. Trust me, you will notice."

Parking around here is genuinely difficult on weekday afternoons. Take the Metro to Hospital and walk six blocks east. It will save you an hour and a lot of frustration.

The Poblado Outliers: Old Drinking Spots That Survived the Gentrification

7. El Poblado is the neighborhood most visitors stay in, but it is also where the gentrification wave hit the hardest. Hidden between the new restaurants on Calle 10 (Calle de la Buena Vida, as locals sarcastically call it) and the high-rise hotels on El Poblado are a handful of old bars that refused to sell.

7. La Placita de la Piedra, Carrera 36 with Calle 10A

This is the oldest continuously operating bar in El Poblado that I know of, dating back to 1981. It started as a small grocery store with two tables outside and grew sideways into a proper bar without ever changing the original tile floor or the hand-painted sign. The owner, Don Octavio, still works the door on weekends even though he is pushing seventy, and he greets every regular by name.

The crowd is a mix of longtime Poblado residents who moved here before the area was trendy, plus a few expats who discovered the place by accident. Order a Pony Malta, which is the non-alcoholic malt drink that paisas drink either as a hangover cure or as a childhood memory in a glass. If you want alcohol, ask for a Cerveza Costeña, which is harder to find than Poker or Aguila and worth the request.

The connection to broader history here is the transformation of El Poblado from a quiet suburb into an international nightlife district. La Placita is what the neighborhood looked like before the money arrived, and it is still operating on the same cash-only model it used in the 80s.

Best time to come is Sunday afternoon. The tables spill onto the sidewalk, families bring their kids, and a small accordion player usually shows up around 3pm.

Local Insider Tip: "Bring exact change. Don Octavio hates breaking large bills, especially on Sundays when the bank next door is closed. Also, the back corner table under the framed photo of his late wife is the one he considers lucky. He will not say so directly, but he will save it for friends."

8. El Techo, Carrera 37 near Calle 11 (yes, the rooftop one, but older than you think)

Most visitors know El Techo as the rooftop bar above El Cielo restaurant, and they assume it is one of the new spots. It is not. The original El Techo opened on this same corner in 1998 as a small upstairs bar with plastic chairs and a view over the valley, and the current version is a renovation of that original concept that happened in 2014. The owners kept the original concrete columns and the heavy wooden door at the base of the stairs.

This is one of the heritage pubs Medellin still has in Poblado, even if it has been dressed up. The kitchen still makes a simple patacón with hogao that has not changed in twenty years, and the mojito recipe is the same one the original owner brought from his aunt's recipe book in Copacabana.

Order the patacón, order the mojito, and ignore the cocktail list on the back of the menu. The newer drinks are fine, but they are not why this place is on the list.

Best time to come is Wednesday evening, when the rooftop is open, the kitchen runs faster, and the crowd has not yet turned into a full El Poblado weekend situation.

Local Insider Tip: "Ask to see the photo album on the wall near the bathroom. There are about thirty framed photos from the original El Techo between 1998 and 2013, including a famous one of a now-deceased salsa singer performing on the rooftop during a private party. The current manager will tell you the story if you ask."

The outdoor seating here gets brutally warm in February and March, when El Poblado bakes in dry heat. The indoor tables near the bar are air-conditioned, and most people do not realize there is an indoor section at all.

Laureles and Estadio: Where the Real Regulars Live

9. La Octava Bar, Carrera 70 with Calle 44A in Laureles

If you want to understand what a classic drinking spot in Medellin looks like when it has not been discovered by tourists, come to La Octava on a Tuesday night. It has been open since 1993, sits on a residential corner in Laureles, and has almost no sign. The owner is a former teacher who opened the bar because he was tired of his living room being the gathering place for his friends.

The room is small, with a wooden bar and about ten tables. The walls are covered in framed photos of local football matches, mostly from the 90s, and there is a chalkboard menu that changes weekly. Order the house sangria, which is made with red wine, apple, cinnamon, and just enough brandy to remind you it is not juice. The food is limited to a few small plates, including a great papa rellena.

This is one of the old bars Medellin locals in Laureles protect fiercely. They do not want it on Instagram, and the owner has refused multiple offers from real estate developers to buy the building. It survives because the neighborhood decided it should.

Best time to come is Friday night, when there is often a small live music set, usually a trio playing boleros or older Colombian music. The regulars stay until midnight and the owner closes when the last person leaves, regardless of the posted hours.

Local Insider Tip: "Order the papa rellena before 9pm. After that the kitchen starts winding down, and the last two are usually saved for the regulars at the bar. If you want to be polite, ask the owner if he is still serving them, and he will usually say yes if you are nice about it."

Laureles itself is worth an entire afternoon of walking. The streets are flat, the trees are mature, and you can see how the neighborhood was built in the 1950s and 60s, which makes it the cleanest architectural contrast to the center and to El Poblado.

10. Estadio Bar El Sur, Calle 49 near Carrera 70

Sitting one block from the Atanasio Girardot stadium, Estadio Bar El Sur has been serving fans and locals since 1978. The walls are covered in Deportivo Independiente Medellín jerseys from every era, and on match nights the place is packed three hours before kickoff. On non-match nights, it is one of the quietest, friendliest bars in Laureles.

This place connects directly to the football identity of the city. DIM is the older of the two local clubs, and El Sur is the unofficial headquarters of supporters who do not want to pay the inflated prices inside the stadium. Order a Poker, order a Costilla de Res if you are hungry, and stay through the match if there is one. The screen is small but the atmosphere is genuine.

Best time to visit is obviously match day, but if you are not here during a season game, Saturday afternoon between 2 and 5pm is when the post-training crowd drifts in.

Local Insider Tip: "When DIM plays at home, the kitchen serves a special costilla platter that is not on the menu. You have to order it by saying 'la costilla del partido,' and the waiter will nod. It comes with arepa, papa criolla, and a side of aji. It is the single best meal you can eat in Laureles on a match day for under 25,000 pesos."

The crowd here can get loud and the service slows dramatically during half-time rushes, especially when the place is at capacity. Be patient, and the bartender will take care of you.

When to Go and What to Know Before You Visit

Most of these bars operate seven days a week, but the rhythm is different depending on the neighborhood. The center, including Plaza Botero and Plaza Cisneros, picks up after 5pm on weekdays and explodes after 9pm on weekends.

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