Must Visit Landmarks in St. John's and the Stories Behind Them

Photo by  Charles Moll

21 min read · St. John's, Canada · landmarks ·

Must Visit Landmarks in St. John's and the Stories Behind Them

ET

Words by

Emma Tremblay

Share

If you walk down any hill in this city, you eventually hit water or history, and often both at the same time. The must visit landmarks in St. John's are not clustered into a single tidy district. They spill across the hilly east end, cling to cliff faces, and line streets so narrow that two cars passing feels like a negotiation. I have spent years walking these streets in every season, and what strikes me most is how tightly the architecture, the salt air, and the stories are wound together. You do not just see the past here. You hear it in the foghorns, you smell it in the fried fish drifting from chip trucks, and you feel it underfoot on the worn stone steps that connect one century to the next.

Signal Hill and the Transatlantic Connection

Signal Hill rises 167 meters above the Atlantic at the entrance to St. John's harbour, and it is the single most important historic site St. John's has to offer. On December 12, 1901, Guglielmo Marconi received the first transatlantic wireless signal here, a series of three dots representing the letter "S" in Morse code, transmitted from Poldhu in Cornwall, England. The stone foundations of his receiving station are still visible near the top, though most visitors head straight for Cabot Tower, which was built in 1898 to commemorate both the 400th anniversary of John Cabot's arrival in Newfoundland and Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee. The tower itself is a squat, rectangular structure of red sandstone that looks more like a fortress than a monument, and the climb to its observation deck rewards you with a 360 degree view that on a clear day stretches to Cape Spear, the easternmost point in North America.

The best time to visit Signal Hill is early morning, before 9 a.m., when the fog has not yet rolled in and the parking lot is still half empty. By midday in July and August, tour buses fill the lot and the main trail gets congested. I usually park at the lower lot near the Johnson Geo Centre and take the North Head Trail along the cliff edge first, then loop back through the tower. Most tourists do not know that the trail continues well beyond the tower toward the Battery, a small neighbourhood tucked below the hill's southern face, where the streets are so steep that some houses have entrances on two different levels. The walk from the tower to the Battery takes about 20 minutes and gives you a perspective on the city that no viewpoint on the summit can match.

Signal Hill connects to the broader character of St. John's in a way that few landmarks anywhere can. It was a military site for over two centuries, used to defend the harbour from French and later American forces, and the gun batteries you pass on the trail are remnants of that layered military past. The hill also hosted signal flags and semaphore systems long before Marconi arrived, which is how it got its name. Standing at the top, you understand why this city exists exactly where it does. The harbour below is one of the finest natural ports in North America, and the hill gave whoever controlled it a commanding view of every ship that approached.

Cape Spear Lighthouse and the Edge of the Continent

Cape Spear sits 11 kilometers southeast of downtown St. John's, and it holds the title of the most easterly point in North America. The lighthouse here, built in 1836, is the oldest surviving lighthouse in Newfoundland and Labrador, and it is one of the famous monuments St. John's residents point to with quiet pride. The structure itself is a two story whitewashed house with a square tower rising from its roofline, and it has been restored to reflect how it looked in the 1830s, complete with the original keeper's furnishings and a small museum inside. During World War II, a coastal defense battery was installed on the headland, and you can still see the concrete gun emplacements and the remains of the magazine bunkers scattered across the grass nearby.

I recommend arriving at Cape Spear in the late afternoon, around 4 or 5 p.m., when the light turns golden and the whale watching picks up. Humpback whales feed in the waters off the cape from June through August, and on a good day you can see them breaching from the cliff path without spending a dime on a boat tour. The walk from the parking lot to the lighthouse is about 15 minutes along a paved path, but the real reward is continuing past the lighthouse to the edge of the headland, where the cliffs drop straight into the Atlantic. The wind up there is relentless, even in summer, so bring a windbreaker no matter what the forecast says.

One detail most visitors miss is the Second World War-era Bren gun position just east of the lighthouse, half hidden in the grass. It is easy to walk right past it, but if you crouch down and look into the concrete emplacement, you get a sense of how exposed this position was, facing the open ocean where German U-boats were a genuine threat. The connection between Cape Spear and the broader story of St. John's is direct and physical. This is where the continent ends, and for centuries it was the first thing European fishermen and explorers saw before they made their way into the harbour.

The Basilica Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

The Basilica Cathedral of St. John the Baptist sits on the brow of the hill at the top of Military Road, overlooking the harbour from a position that was chosen deliberately to be seen from the water. Construction began in 1841 under the direction of Bishop Michael Anthony Fleming, who wanted a cathedral that would assert the presence of the Catholic Church in a colony where Protestant and Catholic tensions ran high. The building was completed in 1855, and it was designated a minor basilica by Pope Pius XII in 1955. Architecturally, it is one of the finest examples of Lombard Romanesque Revival style in North America, built from local sandstone and limestone with two towers that rise 46 meters above the street. The interior is equally impressive, with a ceiling painted in deep blues and golds, 28 stained glass windows imported from England and France, and a massive altar carved from Carrara marble.

The best time to visit the Basilica is on a weekday morning, between 10 a.m. and noon, when the light streams through the stained glass and the building is mostly quiet. Sunday masses draw large crowds, and the cathedral can feel more like a service venue than a place for quiet reflection. I always take a moment to look at the "Dead Christ" sculpture by John Hogan, located in the south transept. It is considered one of the finest examples of religious sculpture in Canada, and most visitors walk right past it without a second glance. The Basilica anchors the historic sites St. John's is known for, and its placement on the hill is a reminder that religion and politics were inseparable in the founding of this city.

One practical note. The steps leading up to the cathedral from Military Road are steep, and after a rain they can be slippery. Wear shoes with good grip. Also, the cathedral does not charge admission, but donations are appreciated, and the small gift shop near the entrance sells postcards and religious items that make for meaningful souvenirs.

The Rooms and the Story of a Province

The Rooms is the combined provincial museum, art gallery, and archives of Newfoundland and Labrador, and it sits on a hilltop at 9 Bonaventure Avenue with a view of the harbour that rivals anything from Signal Hill. The building itself, opened in 2005, is a piece of St. John's architecture that divides opinion. Its designers drew inspiration from the traditional fishing stages, the wooden outbuildings found in every Newfoundland outport, and the result is a structure with sharp angles, weathered wood cladding, and a profile that looks like it grew out of the rock. Inside, the museum covers everything from the Beothuk people and the early European fishery to the resettlement programs of the 1960s and 70s that displaced thousands of Newfoundlanders from their home communities.

I usually spend at least two hours inside The Rooms, and I always start on the top floor, which houses the art gallery. The collection includes works by Christopher Pratt, Mary Pratt, and David Blackwood, three artists whose paintings capture the light and landscape of this province in ways that photographs cannot. The historical exhibits on the lower floors are equally strong, with artifacts from the Beothuk, the Moravian missions in Labrador, and the sealing industry that shaped so much of Newfoundland's economy and identity. The admission fee is around $10 for adults, and the building is open Tuesday through Saturday, with extended hours on Wednesday evenings.

Most tourists do not know that the archives section on the third floor is open to the public, and if you have any interest in genealogy or local history, you can request to see original documents, photographs, and maps. I have spent entire afternoons there tracing family connections and reading letters from fishermen written a century ago. The Rooms connects to the broader character of St. John's because it is the place where the entire story of the province is gathered under one roof, and the building's defiant, angular presence on the hilltop says something about how Newfoundlanders see themselves. They are not interested in blending in.

George Street and the Soundtrack of the City

George Street in downtown St. John's is only two blocks long, but it contains more bars per square meter than almost any other street in Canada. It runs from Queen Street to Water Street, and after dark it becomes a pedestrian zone packed with people moving between pubs, many of which have live music every night of the week. The street has been the nightlife heart of St. John's for decades, and its reputation was cemented during the Second World War when American and Canadian servicemen stationed in the city would come here to drink and listen to music. Today, the tradition continues with local bands playing everything from traditional Newfoundland folk music to rock and country in venues like O'Reilly's Irish Newfoundland Pub, Trapper John's, and the Ship Pub.

The best time to experience George Street is on a Friday or Saturday night, starting around 10 p.m., when the music is in full swing and the energy on the street is at its peak. If you prefer something quieter, go on a Tuesday or Wednesday, when the crowds are smaller and you can actually have a conversation inside the pubs. I always order a pint of Quidi Vidi Brewery's Iceberg Beer, which is brewed with 20,000 year old iceberg water harvested from the Newfoundland coast, and it pairs perfectly with a plate of fish and chips from one of the nearby takeout spots.

George Street is not a landmark in the traditional sense, but it is one of the must visit landmarks in St. John's because it captures the city's character more honestly than any museum or monument. The music, the laughter, the spilled beer, and the impromptu conversations with strangers are all part of what makes this city feel alive. One detail most tourists miss is that the street's real magic happens in the side alleys and back rooms, where musicians gather for informal sessions that are often better than the scheduled performances. If you hear fiddles coming from a doorway, follow the sound.

Quidi Vidi Village and the Brewery by the Lake

Quidi Vidi is a small fishing village that sits about 3 kilometers from downtown St. John's, tucked around a narrow harbour that feels like it belongs in a much more remote part of the province. The village dates to the 1600s, and its name is one of those words that visitors stumble over until a local tells them it is pronounced "Kiddy Vidi." The harbour is still home to a small fleet of fishing boats, and the streets are lined with colourful wooden houses and fishing stages that have changed little in appearance over the past century. The Quidi Vidi Brewery, founded in 1996, operates out of a converted fish plant on the harbour's edge, and it has become one of the most popular craft breweries in Atlantic Canada.

I usually visit Quidi Vidi in the late morning, around 11 a.m., when the brewery's taproom opens and I can get a seat by the window overlooking the harbour. The brewery tour costs around $15 and includes tastings of their core beers, including the Iceberg Lager and the 1892 Traditional Ale. After the tour, I walk the loop around the harbour, which takes about 20 minutes and passes by several small art galleries and craft shops. The village also has a strong connection to the annual Royal St. John's Regatta, North America's oldest organized sporting event, which takes place on the lake at the centre of the village on the first Wednesday of August.

One thing most tourists do not know is that the road into Quidi Vidi passes through a narrow gap between steep rock walls that was blasted open in the 19th century. Before that, the village was accessible only by boat or a rough footpath, and its isolation helped preserve the fishing culture that still defines it. The village connects to the broader story of St. John's because it is a living reminder that this city was built on the fishery, and the transition from fish plant to brewery is a small but perfect example of how Newfoundlanders adapt without forgetting where they came from.

Fort Amherst and the French and British Rivalry

Fort Amherst sits on the southern side of the Narrows, the narrow entrance to St. John's harbour, directly across from Signal Hill. It was first fortified by the British in 1762 to prevent the French from attacking the harbour from the south, after a French force had captured St. John's the previous year. The site includes the remains of gun batteries, a lighthouse built in 1813 (one of the oldest in Newfoundland), and a World War II-era observation post. The views from Fort Amherst across the harbour to Signal Hill and the city beyond are spectacular, and on a clear day you can see for miles in every direction.

The best time to visit Fort Amherst is in the early evening, around 6 p.m., when the light is soft and the site is less crowded. The walk from the parking area to the lighthouse is short, about 10 minutes, but the terrain is uneven and the path can be muddy after rain. I always bring binoculars because the harbour traffic is fascinating to watch, from fishing boats to container ships to the occasional iceberg drifting south along the coast. The site is free to visit, and there are interpretive panels that explain the history of the fortifications, though they are weathered and some are difficult to read.

Most tourists do not know that the lighthouse at Fort Amherst was automated in the 1980s and the keeper's house was demolished, but the foundation is still visible if you look carefully. The site connects to the broader character of St. John's because it represents the military rivalry between France and Britain that shaped the entire history of Newfoundland. The French held St. John's briefly in 1762, and the British response was to fortify both sides of the Narrows so thoroughly that no enemy fleet could ever enter the harbour again. Standing at Fort Amherst, you can see exactly why this harbour was worth fighting over.

Colonial Building and the Birth of Responsible Government

The Colonial Building on Military Road is a neoclassical limestone structure that served as the seat of Newfoundland's government from 1850 to 1959. It was here that responsible government was established in 1855, making Newfoundland a self governing colony, and it was also here that the decision was made in 1949 to join Canadian Confederation. The building is one of the most important historic sites St. John's has, and its architecture reflects the ambitions of a young colony that wanted to project stability and authority. The exterior features Ionic columns and a symmetrical facade, while the interior includes a restored legislative chamber with original woodwork and furnishings.

The Colonial Building is open to visitors on weekdays, and guided tours are available free of charge, though you should check the schedule in advance because hours can be irregular. I usually visit in the mid-afternoon, around 2 p.m., when the building is quiet and I can take my time examining the exhibits. The tour covers the political history of Newfoundland from the early 19th century through Confederation, and the guides are knowledgeable and willing to answer detailed questions. The building sits on Military Road, which connects the Basilica to the downtown core, and walking this route gives you a sense of how the city's religious, political, and commercial centres were arranged in relation to each other.

One detail most visitors miss is the small garden behind the Colonial Building, which contains a plaque commemorating the 1932 riot in which a crowd stormed the building to protest the government's handling of the economic crisis. The riot led to the collapse of responsible government and the establishment of the Commission of Government, which ruled Newfoundland until Confederation. The Colonial Building connects to the broader character of St. John's because it is the place where the political identity of Newfoundland was forged, and the debates that happened inside its walls still echo in the province's relationship with the rest of Canada.

Jellybean Row Houses and the Colours of Resilience

The row houses along Gower Street and Duckworth Street in downtown St. John's are famous for their bright, saturated colours, and they have become one of the most photographed features of the city. The term "Jellybean Row" was popularized in the 1970s when the downtown core was undergoing revitalization, and residents began painting their houses in vivid shades of blue, red, yellow, and green. The tradition has continued and expanded, and today you can find colourful houses on almost every street in the east end. The houses themselves are mostly wooden, two or three stories tall, with narrow fronts and steeply pitched roofs that are a direct response to the heavy snowfall and strong winds that batter the city every winter.

The best time to photograph the Jellybean Row houses is in the morning, between 8 and 10 a.m, when the light is even and the streets are quiet. I usually start at the corner of Gower and Cochrane, then work my way east toward the harbour, stopping at each intersection to look at the different colour combinations. The houses are private residences, so be respectful and do not peer into windows or trespass on property. The colours are not just decorative. They are a statement of resilience and identity in a city that has survived fires, economic collapse, and the isolation of being on an island at the edge of the continent.

Most tourists do not know that the tradition of painting houses in bright colours predates the 1970s revitalization. Fishermen in the outports have been painting their houses and stages in bold colours for centuries, partly for visibility in fog and partly because the paint was a practical way to protect the wood from salt air. The Jellybean Row houses connect to the broader character of St. John's because they represent the same impulse. A refusal to be grey, a determination to stand out, and a deep connection to the maritime culture that built this city.

When to Go and What to Know

St. John's is a year round destination, but the best time to visit for sightseeing is between June and September, when the weather is mildest and the days are longest. July and August are the peak tourist months, so expect higher accommodation prices and more crowded attractions. June and September offer similar weather with fewer visitors, and September has the added bonus of the fall colours and the start of the theatre season. Winter is harsh, with heavy snow and strong winds, but it also has a raw beauty that rewards the prepared visitor. If you are driving, be aware that parking in the downtown core is limited and expensive, and the hills are steep. Walking is the best way to experience the city, but wear sturdy shoes because the sidewalks are often uneven and slippery.

The currency is the Canadian dollar, and most businesses accept credit cards, though some smaller shops and food trucks are cash only. Tipping is customary at restaurants, typically 15 to 20 percent. The city is generally safe, but as with any urban area, be aware of your surroundings at night, particularly on George Street when the bars close. The people of St. John's are among the friendliest you will encounter anywhere in Canada, and striking up a conversation with a local is one of the best ways to discover the stories behind the landmarks.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the best free or low-cost tourist places in St. John's that are genuinely worth the visit?

Signal Hill is free to access and offers some of the best views in the city, including Cabot Tower and the North Head Trail. Fort Amherst is also free and provides a harbour side perspective on the city's military history. The Colonial Building offers free guided tours on weekdays, and the Jellybean Row houses can be photographed without spending a cent. The Basilica Cathedral of St. John the Baptist does not charge admission, and the walk along the harbour front from the downtown core to the Battery costs nothing but time and effort.

Do the most popular attractions in St. John's require advance ticket booking, especially during peak season?

Most outdoor landmarks, including Signal Hill, Cape Spear, and Fort Amherst, do not require advance booking and operate on a walk in basis. The Rooms museum charges an adult admission of approximately $10 and does not typically require advance tickets, though school groups and special exhibitions may have separate arrangements. The Quidi Vidi Brewery tour costs around $15 and can be booked online, which is recommended during July and August when tours fill up quickly.

What is the safest and most reliable way to get around St. John's as a solo traveler?

Walking is the most practical way to explore the downtown core and the east end, as most major landmarks are within a 2 kilometer radius of each other. Metrobus operates public transit across the city, with a single fare of approximately $2.50, though service frequency decreases significantly outside weekday business hours. Taxis and rideshare services are available and reliable, particularly for reaching Cape Quidi Vidi, and Cape Spear, which are outside the central walking zone.

How many days are needed to see the major tourist attractions in St. John's without feeling rushed?

Three full days is the minimum needed to cover the major landmarks at a comfortable pace, including Signal Hill, Cape Spear, The Rooms, the Basilica, the Colonial Building, and Quidi Vidi Village. With four or five days, you can add Fort Amherst, the Battery neighbourhood, and the East Coast Trail without rushing, and still have time for a boat tour or a day trip to a nearby community. Trying to see everything in fewer than three days means skipping the slower, more immersive experiences that make the city memorable.

Is it possible to walk between the main sightseeing spots in St. John's, or is local transport necessary?

The downtown landmarks, including the Basilica, the Colonial Building, the Jellybean Row houses, George Street, and the harbour front, are all within walking distance of each other, typically no more than 15 to 20 minutes apart on foot. Signal Hill is about a 25 minute walk from the downtown core, though the climb is steep. Cape Spear and Quidi Vidi Village are 11 kilometers and 3 kilometers from downtown respectively, and reaching them requires a car, taxi, or bicycle. The East Coast Trail connects several coastal landmarks and can be accessed on foot from multiple points in the city.

Share this guide

Enjoyed this guide? Support the work

Filed under: must visit landmarks in St. John's

More from this city

More from St. John's

Best Glamping Spots Near St. John's for a Night Under the Stars

Up next

Best Glamping Spots Near St. John's for a Night Under the Stars

arrow_forward