Best Walking Paths and Streets in Florianopolis to Explore on Foot

Photo by  João Roger Goes Pereira

15 min read · Florianopolis, Brazil · walking paths ·

Best Walking Paths and Streets in Florianopolis to Explore on Foot

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Words by

Lucas Oliveira

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The best walking paths in Florianopolis are not always the ones you will find in a guidebook. After fifteen years of living on this island, I have learned that the real magic happens on the back streets of the historic center, along the木板路 that winds behind Lagoa da Conceição, and in the fishing villages where old women still hang laundry on clotheslines visible from the trail. Florianopolis on foot means accepting that you will get lost, that you will take a wrong turn into someone's courtyard, and that the best meal of your day will come from a place you stumbled into by accident. That is precisely the point. This city was built for walking, and anyone who tells you otherwise simply has not walked far enough.

Walking the Historic Center: Streets That Still Remember the Colony

The historic center of Florianopolis, officially called Nossa Senhora do Desterro, sits on the island's east side where the first Portuguese settlers established their colony in the seventeenth century. Walking tours Florianopolis operators often skip the narrowest streets here, which is a shame because the real story lives in the alleyways between the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption and the old waterfront. Start at the Pra%C3%A7a XV de Novembro, which has been the gathering point for Floripa's citizens since 1810. The iron fountain at the center was imported from France in 1873, and if you look closely at the base, you can still see the original Portuguese inscription commemorating the coronation of Dom Pedro II. I come here on Tuesday mornings when the square fills with vendors selling locally grown bananas and manioc, and the elderly men gather on the benches to argue about soccer. By nine in the morning, the light hits the colonial-era buildings along the eastern edge of the square in a way that makes even the crumbling facades look golden.

The street that runs west from Pra%C3%A7a XV toward the waterfront is Rua Conselheiro Mafra, and it remains the commercial spine of the old city. Most tourists rush through on their way to the Mercado Público, but I suggest you slow down and look at the second floors of the buildings. Many still have their original azulejo tiles, the blue and white ceramic panels that Portuguese merchants brought from Lisbon in the 1800s. One building near the corner of Rua Duarte Schutel has a faded sign advertising pharmacy services in German, a reminder that this city had a significant German immigrant population working in the pharmacy trade before the Second World War. The best time to walk Rua Conselheiro Mafra is early Saturday morning when the delivery trucks are still unloading and you can watch the shop owners setting out their displays. Do not miss the small bookstore halfway down on the left side called Livraria Ebook, which has been in the same family since 1960 and still sells vinyl records in the back room.

The Hercílio Luz Bridge: Walking Between Two Worlds

No article about Florianopolis on foot would be complete without mentioning the Hercílio Luz Bridge, the orange steel structure that has connected the island to the mainland since 1926. The bridge is 855 meters long and rises 34 meters above the water at its highest point, and it was considered a marvel of engineering when it opened. You can walk across it, which many visitors do not realize because they assume it is only for vehicles. There is a narrow pedestrian lane on the western side, separated from traffic by a concrete barrier. I recommend crossing at sunset, when the metal structure turns a deep burnt orange against the pink sky and the water below reflects every color. The walk takes about twelve minutes at a normal pace, and you will hear the cables singing in the wind if it is breezy. On the island side, the bridge deposits you directly into the neighborhood of Centro, and on the mainland side, you arrive at the neighborhood of Estreito, which has its own completely different character from the island. Worth noting is that the bridge closes to pedestrians for about two hours on Sunday mornings for maintenance crews, usually between six and eight am, which is an easy window to avoid.

Lagoa da Conceição: The Lagoon That Defines Island Life

The best walking paths in Florianopolis for natural beauty lead inevitably to Lagoa da Conceição, the massive lagoon at the center of the island that locals treat as their backyard. The lagoon covers 20 square kilometers and is connected to the ocean by a narrow channel at the southern end, which means the water changes from fresh to salty depending on the season and tide. The木板路, the wooden boardwalk that runs along the eastern shore, is the most popular walking route, stretching about 3 kilometers from the main dock area toward the dunes. It was built in 2012 after the original dirt path became so eroded that roots were exposed and dangerous. Start your walk at the dock where the sand meets the water, near where the boats leave for the island beaches. In the early morning, before eight am, you will see elderly women doing tai chi on the grass patches between the boardwalk and the water. By ten am, the bicycles start appearing and the path becomes more crowded.

The neighborhood of Lagoa itself has developed rapidly in the last decade, but you can still find the old Florianopolis if you wander down the streets parallel to the waterfront. Rua dos硼砂inos, which translates roughly to the street of the salt peter gatherers, is where the fishermen who worked the lagoon used to live. The name comes from an old industry where locals harvested sodium nitrate from the marshy areas around the lagoon to sell to the mining companies. Today the street has a mix of small pensions and surf shops, but some of the original wooden houses remain. I always stop at the small bakery on the corner of Rua dos硼砂inos and the main avenue, which has no sign outside but sells coalho cheese bread that comes out of the oven every hour on the hour. The lagoon area is at its most alive on Wednesday evenings when the open-air market sets up near the main dock, selling everything from handmade jewelry to fresh oysters harvested from the nearby mangroves.

Barra da Lagoa: Where the Lagoon Meets the Sea

At the southern tip of Lagoa da Conceição, the water finds its way to the ocean through the narrow channel at Barra da Lagoa, and this is where you will find one of the most characterful walking routes on the island. The walk from the main part of Lagoa to Barra takes about forty-five minutes if you go slowly, and you can either follow the main road or take the smaller path that runs closer to the water through the wetlands. I prefer the wetland path because you will see herons, ibises, and occasionally a family of capybaras grazing at the water's edge. The boardwalk deteriorates somewhat in places, and there are a couple of sections where you have to walk on the unpaved shoulder of the road, so wear appropriate shoes. The fishing village of Barra da Lagoa itself is a throwback to an older Florianopolis, with colorful wooden houses clustered along the narrow streets that lead down to the beach.

The beach at Barra da Lagoa is not the most spectacular on the island, but it has a raw honesty that the fancier beaches lack. The fishermen pull their boats up onto the sand every morning, and you can buy the catch of the day directly from them if you arrive before nine am. The path continues past the beach toward the dunes, and this is where the scenery becomes truly memorable. The dunes at the southern end of the island are protected as part of the Parque Estadual de жизнных, and they shift with the wind in ways that are different every season. The walk to the first major dune overlook takes about twenty minutes from the beach. One thing most tourists do not know is that you can continue walking all the way to the beaches on the southern coast, a journey of about two hours from Barra, crossing through the dunes and along cattle pastures. Bring water and start early because there is no shade for most of this route.

Ribeirão da Ilha: The Southern Fishing Heritage

The neighborhood of Ribeirão da Ilha, in the extreme south of the island, represents one of the oldest settlements in Florianopolis and remains one of the best places to experience the city's Azorean heritage on foot. The Portuguese arrived here in the eighteenth century and built the neighborhood in the style of their home islands, which is why you will notice the single-story whitewashed houses with blue trim and the small gardens in front. The main walking street is the broad avenue that runs through the center, but the real exploration happens in the perpendicular side streets where the old families still live. I always walk past the house on the corner of Rua Laurindo Januario and Rua Francisco Machado, where an elderly woman named Dona Maria has been growing the same variety of figs for over sixty years. She does not sell them, but she will show you the tree if you ask nicely and seem genuinely interested.

The mother church of the neighborhood is the Igreja Nossa Senhora da Lapa do Ribeirão, which sits at the highest point of the area and is visible from most of the walking routes through the neighborhood. The church was built in 1806 using coral stone from the local reefs, and if you look at the mortar between the stones, you can see small fragments of shells mixed in. Mass is held on Sunday mornings at eight, and the building fills with fishermen and their families in a way that feels more like a community gathering than a religious service. After mass, many of the families walk to the small bakery near the church to buy pão de queijo, the cheese bread that is ubiquitous in this part of the island. The best time to walk through Ribeirão da Ilha is on Sunday morning between seven and ten, when the neighborhood is at its most alive and the light is soft and flattering for photographs. The market at the end of the main avenue sells fresh fish every day except Monday, and I recommend the moqueca if it is available because the recipe here comes directly from the Azores.

The Old Path to Naufragados Beach

For those who want a more adventurous walking experience, the trail to Praia dos Naufragados on the far southern coast offers some of the most dramatic scenery accessible by foot in Florianopolis. The trailhead begins near the end of the road that passes through the community of Naufragados, and from there it is about 45 minutes of walking to reach the beach, which is considered one of the most beautiful on the island despite its remoteness. The path crosses a small river by way of a hand-pulled ferry that has been in operation since 1965, and you have to pull the cable yourself to cross. This is not a walk for people with mobility issues because there are steep sections and the path is uneven in places. The reward at the end is a vast beach backed by cliffs and framed by headlands, with almost no development and typically very few people. You will see dolphins in the bay if you arrive early enough in the morning. Bring everything you need because there are no facilities at the beach, and do not attempt this walk if rain is forecast because the trail becomes a river of mud that is genuinely dangerous.

The trail passes through areas that were farmland until the 1970s, and you can still see the stone walls that divided the old properties. Several families used to grow manioc here, and the soil in this region is particularly suited to it. The last family to farm this land moved to the city center in 1989, and their descendants still live in Lagoa. When you reach the beach, look for the small group of rocks at the far southern end where the fisherman Salvador has been building his shelter for the last thirty years. He is not always there, but if you meet him, he will tell you stories about the shipwrecks that gave the beach its name. The walk back is easier because it is mostly downhill, but give yourself at least an hour because the heat can be intense in summer.

Jurerê and the Northern Coast Promenade

The northern part of the island has developed into one of the most sought-after residential areas in Brazil, but there is still a pleasant walking route along the beachfront that connects the different beach neighborhoods. Starting at Canasvieiras and walking north toward Jurerê, you follow a promenade that runs for about 3 kilometers along the edge of the water. This area is very different from the historic center or the southern fishing villages, and it attracts a younger, more affluent crowd who come for the beach clubs and restaurants. The wooden deck sections are the most pleasant to walk on, and in the morning before nine, you will have them mostly to yourself. By early afternoon, the same promenades become crowded with people moving between the various beach establishments. The area has several boutique hotels that have opened in converted houses, and the architecture has been regulated to maintain a certain coastal charm, though it is undeniably more polished than the authentic Florianopolis you will find elsewhere on the island.

One detail that surprises many visitors is that Jurerê was essentially a fishing village until the 1980s, and you can still see the original fishermen's cottages if you walk inland from the beachfront promenade. The community built a small chapel near the beach that has become a landmark, and it is decorated with shells and fishing nets in a style that you will not see anywhere else on the island. The walk between Canasvieiras and Jurerê takes about an hour if you include the time to stop and look at the small details. There are several places to eat along the way, and the open-air restaurant near the northern end of Jurerê beach serves excellent oysters at prices that are reasonable by Brazilian standards. Parking in this area during peak season is genuinely difficult, which is why the walk is actually a smarter choice than driving.

Caminho dos Canyons: Walking in the Serra do Tabuleiro

While most visitors come to Florianopolis for the beaches, the interior of the island within the Serra do Tabuleiro State Park offers walking routes that few tourists ever attempt. The park covers 84,000 hectares and protects the last remaining Atlantic Forest in the region, as well as the rare southern right whales that visit the coast during their breeding season. The most accessible walking route from Florianopolis is the trail to the viewpoint above the canyons, which requires a local guide because the trail is not marked on any map. A guide from the community of Alto Ribeira will take you on a four-hour round trip walk that includes some steep sections but rewards you with views that feel like you have entered another world. The water in the rivers below is so clear you can see the bottom at a depth of ten meters, and the forest is so dense that the temperature drops noticeably when you enter the canopy. The trail passes near an old charcoal production site that was abandoned in the 1970s, and you can still see the circular stone foundations where the kilns once stood. The local guide association requires you to book at least two days in advance, and they will provide packed lunches made by community members using ingredients from their own gardens.

When to Go and What to Know

The best months for walking in Florianopolis are March through May and September through November, when the temperatures range from 18 to 25 degrees Celsius and the tourist crowds have thinned. January and February see the highest numbers of visitors, and the walking paths become uncomfortably crowded during the middle of the day. December through February are also the rainiest months, and sudden afternoon storms can interrupt a walking tour without much warning. June through August are the quietest months, and you will find empty paths, but the water temperature drops and some of the beachside establishments close for the low season. Morning walks are almost always preferable to afternoon walks because the light is better for photography and the paths are cooler. Carry small bills because many of the small vendors and informal parking attendants do not have change for larger notes. Brazilian wax paper money is better than plastic bags for keeping maps dry during unexpected rain.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which local ride-hailing or transit apps should I download before arriving in Florianopolis?

The dominant ride-hailing apps in Florianopolis are Uber and 99, both of which operate reliably throughout the island and on the mainland side. 99, which was originally a Brazilian company, often has slightly lower prices and frequently offers discount codes that are shared in local WhatsApp groups. The public bus system, operated by SCTrans, is extensive but can be confusing for visitors because routes are not well marked at many stops. The only ferry service on the island runs between the main dock at Centro and

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