Best Street Food in Ghent: What to Eat and Where to Find It

Photo by  Hubert Van den Borre

18 min read · Ghent, Belgium · street food ·

Best Street Food in Ghent: What to Eat and Where to Find It

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Words by

Nathalie Dubois

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The Best Street Food in Ghent: A Local's Map to the City's Most Honest Flavors

I have spent the better part of a decade eating my way through Ghent, and if there is one thing I can tell you with absolute certainty, it is that the best street food in Ghent does not come from the places with the longest queues or the most Instagrammable signage. It comes from the corners where the locals actually go, the fry stands that have been handed down through generations, the waffle carts that show up at the same market stall every Saturday without fail. Ghent is a city that takes its food seriously, but it does so without pretension. You will find Michelin-starred restaurants here, yes, but you will also find a woman selling freshly made smoutebollen from a cart near the Korenmarkt in December, and the experience of eating one of those warm, powdered-sugar-dusted dough balls while standing in the cold is worth more than any tasting menu. This is a Ghent street food guide built from years of walking these streets, and every recommendation here is somewhere I have personally returned to more than once.

The Fry Stands That Define Cheap Eats Ghent

No conversation about the best street food in Ghent can begin anywhere other than the frituur. Belgium's relationship with the friet is almost spiritual, and Ghent has its own particular devotion to the craft. The city's most talked-about fry stand is Frituur Jozef, tucked along the Vrijdagmarkt, a square that has served as Ghent's central marketplace since the 13th century. Jozef has been frying potatoes here for decades, and the line that forms by noon on weekdays is made up almost entirely of Ghentenaars on their lunch break, not tourists. Order the frites with a stoofvlees sauce, a rich Belgian beef stew that is ladled generously over a paper cone of golden, twice-fried potatoes. The best time to go is between 11:30 and 12:30 on a weekday, before the after-work crowd descends. Most tourists do not know that Jozef closes by early evening, so if you show up at 6 PM you will find nothing but a locked shutter and the lingering smell of frying oil.

A short walk from the Vrijdagmarkt, along the Korenlei waterfront, you will find another fry institution that locals argue about endlessly. Frietketel on the Sint-Veerleplein has been a fixture since the 1980s, and it sits in a square that was once the center of Ghent's medieval grain trade. The frites here are cut slightly thicker than at Jozef, and the mayonnaise is made in-house, which gives it a tangier, more assertive flavor than the commercial versions you find elsewhere. Go on a Friday or Saturday evening when the square fills with people heading out for the night, and eat your cone while leaning against the railing overlooking the Leie River. The one complaint I will offer is that the seating area is essentially nonexistent, so you are eating standing up or walking, which in the rain can be a genuine test of commitment.

Waffles and Sweet Local Snacks Ghent Does Better Than Anywhere

Ghent's waffle culture is split between two traditions, and understanding the difference will make your street food experience infinitely better. The Liège waffle, made from a brioche-like dough studded with pearl sugar that caramelizes on the griddle, is the one you will find at most street carts. The Brussels waffle, lighter and rectangular, is more commonly served in sit-down establishments. For the Liège style, the cart on the corner of the Botermarkt and the Hoogpoort is the one I return to most often. The woman who runs it has been there every day I have visited for the past six years, and she presses each waffle to order on a cast-iron plate that looks older than most of the buildings around it. The sugar caramelizes into a crunchy, almost burnt shell that gives way to a soft, buttery interior. Eat it plain. Do not let anyone put whipped cream or chocolate on it. The best time to go is mid-morning, around 10 or 11, when the waffles are fresh and the cart has not yet run out of dough, which it sometimes does by early afternoon on busy days.

For something less obvious, seek out the cuberdons, also known as neuzekes or "little noses," which are cone-shaped purple candies made from gum arabic and raspberry flavoring. They are a Ghent specialty, and the confectionery store that has been making them in the city since the late 19th century still sells them from a shop near the Sint-Michielsbrug. The candy has a gelatinous outer shell and a liquid center, and eating one is a small, strange, wonderful experience. Most tourists walk right past this shop because the storefront is narrow and easy to miss, wedged between larger, more conspicuous storefronts. The cuberdons have a short shelf life of about three weeks, so the ones you buy here are always fresher than anything you will find in a supermarket. This is one of those local snacks Ghent is quietly proud of but rarely advertises.

The Vrijdagmarkt as a Living Street Food Hub

The Vrijdagmarkt deserves its own section because it functions as the beating heart of Ghent's street food scene in a way that no other square in the city does. Every Friday morning, the market transforms into a sprawling open-air food event where vendors sell everything from warm sausages to freshly baked bread to Turkish gözleme. The square itself has been a marketplace since the Middle Ages, and the tradition of Friday trading dates back to at least the 12th century, making it one of the oldest continuously operating market squares in Belgium. On a typical Friday, you will find at least a dozen food vendors, and the atmosphere is loud, chaotic, and entirely local. Office workers, students, retirees, and families all converge here, and the energy is more neighborhood block party than tourist attraction.

One vendor I always seek out is the Turkish bakery stall that sets up near the eastern edge of the square. They sell simit, a circular bread encrusted with sesame seeds, and börek, a flaky pastry filled with cheese or spinach, both made that morning. The prices are remarkably low, often under three euros for a generous portion, which makes this one of the best cheap eats Ghent has to offer. The best time to arrive is between 9 and 10 AM, before the lunch rush clears out the most popular items. A detail most visitors miss is that the vendors on the Vrijdagmarkt rotate slightly from week to week, but the Turkish bakery and a few of the cheese and charcuterie stalls have been there so long they are essentially permanent fixtures. If you go on a rainy Friday, the market still runs, but the crowd thins out and you will have a much easier time getting served quickly.

Sint-Amandsberg and the North African Influence on Ghent Street Food

The northern neighborhoods of Ghent, particularly around the Sint-Amandsberg area and along the Dendermondsesteenweg, have developed their own street food identity over the past few decades, shaped largely by the Moroccan and Turkish communities that settled here. The kebab shops and North African bakeries in this part of the city are not tourist destinations by any stretch, but they serve some of the most satisfying and affordable food you will find anywhere in Ghent. One particular bakery along the Dendermondsesteenweg sells msemen, a square-shaped Moroccan flatbread that is buttered, folded, and griddled until it is crispy on the outside and layered within. It is served with honey and cheese, and it costs less than two euros. I have never seen another tourist in this bakery, and the owner always looks mildly surprised when I walk in, but he is unfailingly kind.

The broader character of this neighborhood reflects Ghent's evolution from a medieval trading city into a genuinely multicultural European center. The Dendermondsesteenweg was once a road leading out of the city toward the town of Dendermonde, and the shops that line it now serve a community that is as much a part of Ghent as the guild houses on the Graslei. For a Ghent street food guide to be honest, it has to include these neighborhoods, because the food here is not performative or curated for visitors. It is everyday food made by people who live here, and it is excellent. The best time to explore this area is on a weekday afternoon, when the bakeries are restocking and the bread is at its freshest. One small warning: the area is not particularly scenic, and if you are expecting cobblestone charm you will be disappointed. What you will get instead is authenticity.

The Student Zones and Late-Night Street Food

Ghent is a university city, and the presence of Ghent University shapes the street food landscape in ways that are immediately apparent once you know where to look. The area around the Overpoortstraat, just south of the historic center, is the city's primary student nightlife strip, and the food options here cater to people who are hungry at hours when most of the city has gone to sleep. The kebab shops and friteries along this street stay open until 2 or 3 AM on weekends, and the quality is surprisingly high given the late-hour context. One friterie in particular, near the northern end of the Overpoortstraat, serves a mitraillette, a Belgian street food classic that is essentially a baguette stuffed with frites, meat, and sauce. It is messy, excessive, and exactly what you need at 1 AM after an evening of Belgian beer.

The Overpoortstraat has been the center of student life in Ghent for decades, and its character shifts dramatically depending on the time of day. During daylight hours, it is quiet and almost sleepy, lined with small shops and cafés. After 10 PM on a Thursday, Friday, or Saturday, it becomes one of the loudest streets in the city. The best time to eat here is late, obviously, but if you want to avoid the worst of the crowds, aim for a Thursday night rather than a weekend. Most tourists do not realize that the Overpoortstraat is also home to a small Vietnamese grocery store that sells bánh mì from a counter in the back, and the sandwich, made with a crisp baguette, pâté, pickled vegetables, and fresh herbs, is one of the best cheap eats Ghent has to offer at any hour. The store is easy to miss because the bánh mì counter is not advertised on the street, but once you know it exists, it becomes a regular stop.

The Waterfront Stalls and Seasonal Street Food

Ghent's relationship with its rivers, the Leie and the Scheldt, has always shaped its food culture, and the waterfront areas offer some of the most atmospheric street food experiences in the city, particularly during the warmer months. Along the Graslei and the Korenlei, the two medieval quays that face each other across the Leie, temporary food stalls and carts appear from April through September, selling everything from grilled sausages to fresh fruit to Belgian pralines. The Graslei itself is one of the most photographed spots in Ghent, and for good reason. The row of guild houses along the water dates from the 12th to the 17th centuries, and eating a simple grilled sausage while looking at these buildings connects you to a food tradition that stretches back centuries. Market squares and waterfronts have always been where people in Ghent bought their quick meals, and the modern stalls are a direct continuation of that history.

One seasonal vendor I look for every summer sells garnaalkroketten, shrimp croquettes, made with North Sea brown shrimp. The cart appears on the Korenlei most afternoons from May through August, and the croquettes are served in a small bread roll with a dollop of mayonnaise and a slice of lemon. They are crisp, creamy, and taste like the Belgian coast compressed into a single bite. The best time to find this cart is on a sunny Saturday afternoon, when the waterfront is at its most alive. A detail that most visitors overlook is that the Graslei side of the river gets significantly more sun in the afternoon than the Korenlei side, so if you want to eat outside without shivering, position yourself on the Graslei. The one genuine drawback of eating on the waterfront is the seagulls, which are aggressive and numerous, and which will absolutely steal your food if you are not paying attention.

The Patisserie Windows and Grab-and-Go Pastries

Not all of the best street food in Ghent involves standing on a street corner. Some of it involves walking into a shop, pointing at something in the window, and eating it five minutes later on a bench somewhere. Ghent has a strong tradition of patisserie and bakery culture, and several shops in the historic center sell pastries that are designed to be eaten on the move. Along the Lange Steenstraat, one bakery in particular sells a Ghentse mop, a small, round cookie made with almond flour and topped with a half walnut. It is a local specialty that dates back to at least the 19th century, and the version at this bakery is slightly denser and more almond-forward than versions I have tried elsewhere. The cookies are sold individually, so you can buy two or three and eat them while walking toward the Gravensteen, the medieval castle that sits at the eastern edge of the old city.

The broader patisserie scene in Ghent reflects the city's position at the crossroads of Flemish and French baking traditions. You will find both butter-rich French-style pastries and the darker, spiced breads that are more typical of the Low Countries. For a truly local experience, try a slice of mattentaart, a cheese tart made with a flaky pastry and a filling that resembles a cross between cheesecake and custard. It is not widely known outside of Ghent and the surrounding region, and the best versions are sold at small bakeries rather than at the larger, more commercial shops. The best time to buy one is in the morning, when the tarts have just come out of the oven and the pastry is still shatteringly crisp. Most tourists do not know that mattentaart has a protected geographical indication status within the European Union, meaning that only tarts made in the Ghent area can officially bear the name. It is one of those local snacks Ghent guards quietly but firmly.

The Night Markets and Special Event Street Food

Ghent hosts several night markets and food festivals throughout the year, and these events represent the most concentrated and diverse street food experiences the city has to offer. The Gentse Feesten, a ten-day cultural festival held every July, transforms the entire city center into an open-air food and music venue, with dozens of temporary food stalls appearing in squares and side streets that are normally quiet. During the Feesten, you can eat everything from Indonesian rijsttafel to Mexican tacos to traditional Flemish stoofvlees, all within a few blocks. The festival has been running in various forms since the mid-19th century, and it draws over a million visitors across its ten-day run, making it one of the largest cultural festivals in Europe. The best night to go is the second or third evening, when the initial opening-night chaos has settled but the energy is still high.

Outside of the Gentse Feesten, Ghent hosts smaller night markets throughout the year, particularly in the autumn and winter months. The Wintermarkt, held in December around the Sint-Baafsplein, features food stalls selling warm drinks, glühwein, and seasonal snacks like smoutebollen and speculoos. The market is smaller and more intimate than the Gentse Feesten, and it has a genuinely local feel, with families and couples wandering between stalls rather than the large, boozy crowds that characterize the summer festival. The best time to visit the Wintermarkt is on a weekday evening, when the crowds are thinner and the vendors have more time to talk. A detail most visitors miss is that several of the Wintermarkt food vendors are the same people who run permanent shops in the city during the rest of the year, so the quality is consistently high. The one complaint I will note is that the market closes relatively early, usually by 9 PM, so do not plan on making it a late-night food destination.

When to Go and What to Know

Ghent's street food scene operates on a rhythm that is different from what you might expect in a larger European city. Most friteries and small food shops close by early evening, and many are shut on Sundays or Mondays, so planning your eating around these closures is essential. The Vrijdagmarkt is only fully active on Friday mornings, and the waterfront seasonal stalls only operate from roughly April through October. If you are visiting in winter, your options narrow considerably, but the trade-off is that the Wintermarkt and the cuberdon shops are at their most appealing. Cash is still preferred at many of the smaller vendors and market stalls, though card acceptance has improved significantly in recent years. The city center is compact enough that you can walk between most of these locations in under fifteen minutes, and I would strongly recommend doing so rather than relying on public transport, which adds time and complexity to what should be a simple, pleasurable experience.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Ghent expensive to visit? Give a realistic daily budget breakdown for mid-tier travelers.

A mid-tier daily budget for Ghent runs approximately 80 to 120 euros per person, covering a mid-range hotel or guesthouse at 60 to 90 euros per night, meals at casual restaurants for 15 to 25 euros per person per meal, and a museum entry or two at around 10 to 15 euros each. Street food can significantly reduce daily food costs, with a cone of frites costing 3 to 5 euros and a waffle or sandwich running 2 to 4 euros. Public transport within the city is affordable at around 2.50 euros per ride or 6 euros for a day pass.

Is the tap water in Ghent safe to drink, or should travelers strictly rely on filtered water options?

Tap water in Ghent is perfectly safe to drink and meets all European Union quality standards. The city's water supply is managed by Farys, the local water utility, and the water is tested regularly. You can drink directly from the tap in hotels, restaurants, and public fountains without concern. There is no need to purchase bottled water for health reasons, though some people prefer the taste of filtered or still water, which is widely available in supermarkets.

How easy is it to find pure vegetarian, vegan, or plant-based dining options in Ghent?

Ghent has one of the highest concentrations of vegetarian and vegan restaurants per capita in Europe, and the city actively promotes plant-based eating through its weekly "Donderdag Veggiedag" (Thursday Veggie Day) initiative, which encourages restaurants and cafeterias to offer vegetarian options every Thursday. Dedicated vegan and vegetarian restaurants are found throughout the city center, and most traditional friteries now offer at least one plant-based sauce option. Street food vendors at markets and festivals also increasingly include vegetarian choices.

Are there any specific dress codes or cultural etiquettes to keep in mind when visiting local spots in Ghent?

Ghent has no specific dress codes for street food vendors or casual dining spots, and the atmosphere is generally informal and relaxed. When eating at a frituur or market stall, it is common to eat standing up or walking, and this is considered perfectly acceptable. Tipping is not obligatory but rounding up the bill or leaving small change is appreciated. It is polite to greet vendors with a "goedemorgen" or "goedemiddag" before ordering, and attempting even a few words of Dutch or Flemish is generally met with warmth.

What is the one must-try local specialty food or drink that Ghent is famous for?

The cuberdon, also known as a neuzekes or "little nose," is the most distinctly Ghent specialty. It is a cone-shaped purple candy made from gum arabic with a raspberry-flavored liquid center and a gelatinous outer shell. The candy has been produced in Ghent since the late 19th century and holds a protected geographical indication status within the European Union, meaning only candies made in the Ghent area can officially be called cuberdons. They are available at several confectionery shops near the Sint-Michielsbrug and have a shelf life of approximately three weeks, so buying them fresh from a local shop is strongly recommended.

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