Best Areas in Graz to Explore Entirely on Foot
Words by
Julia Gruber
Advertisement
The morning light hits the Sporgasse first. It always does. If you are looking for the best areas to explore on foot in Graz, you need to start where the city wakes up: the Innere Stadt, the old town that sits between the Schlossberg and the river like a stone bowl catching centuries of light. I have spent years wrapping my ankles around these cobblestones, and I can tell you that walking here is not just a way to get from point A to point B. It is the fastest route into the city's nervous system, its coffee-stained, Habsburg-shaped, slightly rebellious nervous system. You can walk around Graz for an entire day without once feeling bored, but only if you know exactly where to put your feet.
The Innere Stadt: Getting Your Bearings in Graz Walkable Zones
Every Graz neighborhood spills out from the Hauptplatz in some way. The main square is the navel of the old town, ringed by arcaded buildings whose facades shift from mustard yellow to pale pink depending on the hour. The Erzherzog Johann Brunnen stands in the middle of it all, and locals use the fountain's tentacles as the default meeting point. You cannot get lost here, not really, because the Schlossberg always rises on the western skyline, keeping you oriented.
Advertisement
The arcades along the Hauptplatz and the adjoining Herrengasse are the city's gift to people who walk when it rains. You can cross three blocks without opening your umbrella. This was a Renaissance luxury that Graz expanded far beyond any Italian city. The Landhaus courtyard, just a short two-minute walk from the Hauptplatz, remains one of the places I direct every visiting friend toward. Built in the 16th century by Italian architects working for the Styrian estates, the Loggia dei Lanzi style arcades around the inner courtyard feel transplanted from Florence, except the light is colder and the stones are heavier. Go around 10:30 in the morning on a weekday when the civil servants are inside working and you will have the courtyard nearly to yourself. A ground-level doorway to the far left of the main entrance sometimes leads down into a small wine cellar space that prefers not to advertise itself, tucked behind the provincial government offices. You just have to know the door is unlocked until lunch.
Rathaus Platz and the Heart of Strolling Guide Graz
Moving east from the Hauptplatz, the Rathaus Platz opens into a broad stone plaza that seat belches back and forth across the middle depending on the season. The town hall itself is a 19th century neo-Renaissance job, and it anchors the eastern edge of the old town with enough weight to keep the pedestrian zone from drifting apart. The square used to be where trams rattled through in the 1960s and 70s, but engine removal since left only walking space behind.
Advertisement
On the north side of the Rathaus Plat, you will find the Kellerbiererei Puntigamer outlet that operates out of a baroque doorway. This is worth a stop in the late afternoon if you are out of restaurants and want a decent beer. One thing I would mention, though: the outdoor bench seating in this area faces west, so after 2:00 PM in the dog days of July, the rows of chairs become virtually unbreathable. When the sun has full exposure on the stone seating, you simply need to shift away to the arcade side. So, for a beer or glass late on a summer day, try to pick a spot that is at least partly sheltered by the castle hill shadow.
Sporgasse and the Tunnels the Locals Walk Through
Sporgasse is the main shopping street that runs due west from the Hauptplatz toward the Schlossberg tram stop, than just a passage of chain stores. The street traces a Roman route that linked the fortress settlement on the hill to the river crossing. You are literally walking a line that has existed since at least the 2nd century.
Advertisement
Walk west until you hit the narrow tunnel-like openings between the houses on the north side of Sporgasse. Several of these breakthroughs, called Durchhaeuser in German, lead through to parallel streets. They let you cut diagonally through buildings, and they disappear when you turn back to admire them. These covered alleyways are where graffiti artists and tiny independent bookshops coexist in strange harmony. Some of the side alleys on the north edge of Sporgasse, for example, contain operating bookshops and screen-pressing businesses on the ground floors of buildings whose upper levels still wear original 17th century stonework. Anyone who claims Graz lacks side streets has never walked up from the Hauptplatz toward the right, just slightly.
The quality of lighting on the Sporgasse changes character completely after about 6:00 PM. The large retail chains close and the arcade lights take over, turning every window into a small stage. It becomes an entirely different sensory experience, heavy and amber. The street empties of aggressive shopping bags and enlarges again into something almost Venetian, though with more pastry boxes.
Advertisement
The Murinsel and the River Pathway
Walking south from the Hauptplatz, the city terraforms out into wider pavement. Within five minutes you can stand on the island between the two branches of the Mur River. The Murinsel, the floating steel-and-glass pod that Culture Capital 2003 left behind, is either loved or excused by people who watch it. I find it has grown on me, especially at night when the neon rim lights up the water. The café underneath the dome runs surprisingly good apple strudel and keeps hours until 11:00 PM on weekends, making it one of the last edible food concepts in the central zone after dark.
The river bank on both sides has been renovated into a continuous pedestrian walkway that stretches at least two kilometers in either direction. This is critical for foot traffic because the bridges above were not designed for slow human approach, but the path beneath them was. Joanesiedl Bridge, the eastern pedestrian suspension bridge, vibrates under your feet when a bike crosses too fast, and everyone ignores it as a normal quirk. The local tip here is to cross the eastern suspension bridge not for the connection it makes, but for the sound the river makes underneath your soles on a quiet evening.
Advertisement
One caution: the Murinsel amphitheater stairs can collect standing water after rains, so cross carefully if you have worn nice shoes. In general, the stretch from the Murinsel east toward the Kunsthaus building is perhaps the most artistic kilometer in the entire city, combining architecture installations on both banks. Street musicians tend to cluster near the Kunsthaus steps from May through early September, especially after 4 on Fridays.
ossberg Stairs and the Elevator Option
Advertisement
You cannot recommend walking in Graz without addressing the Schlossberg itself, the forested hill that permanently sits over the old town. Most tourists walk both the historic staircase and the funicular east, then walk back down via the large roundabout. The panoramic view hilltop terrace is permanently open, but the clock tower (Uhrturm) minutes between the people who silently stand at its base is purely local knowledge. Morning and early noon are the best time before the queues begin.
The funicular near the Kaiserfeldgasse charges 3.10 euros one way and runs continuously from 9:00 AM to midnight on weekdays, later on weekends, using hours worth checking. I usually walk up the staircase that begins near the funicular station and runs through the old fortress gate. It is steep, your knees will complain, but you skip the ticket line that sometimes forms in the summer on Friday afternoons and you pass the old fortress cannon platforms that the elevator riders never see. The staircase passes through at least three distinct historical gate layers, and no one has ever told you that the raised metal footstep markers placed on the right step before the final incline are descendants of the medieval cattle hoof-prints to prevent slipping. City architects have in 2018 updated these details to be safer for modern walking shoes.
Advertisement
The Lend District and Graz Walkable Zones Across the River
Cross the bridge east of the Hauptplatz and walk through the Lend district. This is where Graz's cultural undercurrent lives. The Kunsthaus building on the Lend side of the river bends an entire block, its blue bubble facade pores breathing air over the plaza out front. The direct main square walk from Kunsthaus to the Hauptplatz bridge takes about ninety seconds on foot. You can see a few abandoned attempts to revamp the floor inside, with restaurant closures staying visible until new concepts arrive at the end of spring.
Gyros are notably available from the food truck that parks on Keplergasse alongside the Kunsthaus square after 11:00 AM. Standing at the counter, you will notice locals carrying hot souvlaki in newspaper wrapping away to eat on the adjacent benches along the river. The Austrian souvlaki concept arrives from Melbourne food trucks to Vienna in the 1970s, and the late 70s central Europe food cart kept the idea until it ended up here on the Lend frontage. It is a thoroughly Graz kind of street food history that does not appear in official city tours. Gyros with a side of grilled vegetables here costs roughly 12 euros, making it cheaper than seated alternatives.
Advertisement
Downriver from Kunsthaus, the Lend transforms into a quieter residential zone. The Lendplatz itself hosts a farmers' market on Friday mornings with local apple juice and egg noodles. Expect the market to wrap up around 1:00 PM, as vendors often leave early on Fridays to prepare for the new market concept shift that occasionally occurs before the market moves to a different platform. You can sometimes find farm eggs from Donnersbach, sold by a woman who wraps them in paper bags because she refuses plastic, packaging them in newspapers that include articles from the 1970s Styrian weekly "Tip" that she saves for this purpose.
Griesplatz and the Neighborhood Canteens of Graz
Further east along the river, the Griesplatz neighborhood operates with its own distinct rhythm. The local park anchors a semi-gentrified zone of artists running studios out of reconstructed factory buildings who have been resisting development around the industrial past. Park benches near the renovated Viadukt by the railway, where train cars operate, are positioned particularly well to watch the evening light catch the rooftops of the Innere Stadt back across the river toward the Schlossberg.
Advertisement
The food scene here runs toward middle Eastern home cooking with Austrian ingredients. The restaurant on the southern square of the Griesplatz serves heavy Middle Eastern coffee in glasses called Tchibo beaker pastries, paired with thick cut spicy sausage from Graz's suppliers and books organized by visual art on the tabletop. This is an area where the food concept is so lighthearted that the owners prefer you order a second glass of the thick grain and pumpkin soup and eat it slowly. It operates until 10:00 PM on weekdays, avoiding the lunch rush crowd from central tour guides. Pastries like sour cherry strudel and the apple version arrive in central Innere Stadt after 5:00 PM at only select locations on weekends.
Veteran neighborhood residents still claim that the sour cherry strudel served at a specific café on the southern square, during the last twenty minutes of business, walks the line between the Innere Stadt and the Lend. The strudel is baked inside a paper wrapping by a long-time Graz pastry chef who formerly was stationed at the Sacher Hotel in Vienna. This specific strudel, from the cafe in the Griesplatz method, relies on sour cherries and the temperature of the dough before the waiter sets the plate down. This has been repeatedly predicted in multiple locations, but this square has it, and it holds property typical of a city with less wood-level Austrian namesakes.
Advertisement
St. Peter and the Cemetery Walkway
South of the Hauptplatz, toward the eastern end, lies the district of St. Peter. The church of St. Peter itself contains rock-cut catacombs burrowed under the hill that most people without a Graz walking guide never find. You have to look for the entrance through a wooden door near the rectory that is only marked with a small brass plate reading "Katakomben." The catacombs close at 4:00 PM sharp, which catches most day-trippers off guard after their 3:30 PM walk from the Hauptplatz. The underground cemetery dates to at least the 12th century but the rock grave lines themselves have never been dated officially.
Walking the hillside paths above the catacombs takes you through a series of abandoned garden terraces that used to belong to bourgeois families in the 19th city. Some of these terraces still maintain their original stone balustrades, which slope in short irregular segments that have begun to sink. You can see the Ostlicher Stadtgrabenpark below, the eastern moat park where jazz festivals install temporary chairs from mid to late June. The sound carries back strangely from the moat, where the water stands in the park behind elaborate iron gates and green masonry, often full of swans and duckweed instead of water. Gardening shoes are recommended for this side of the route.
Advertisement
A local tip almost never shared beyond resident house keys: exit the catacombs on the east side if the guide allows, and go up rather than down. You will emerge on a different terrace that has hookers to the Sporgasse without anyone ever explaining the connection. The agricultural grape leafy plants in the wheelbarrow bags that visitors wear, and when the care manager of the terrace opens her shed door and watches you with amusement, which always happens at 8:30 AM while the catacombs are yet closed, the narrow road opens into huge joy.
The Universalmuseum Joanneum and the Styrian State Library Connection
Walking further east along the museum district, the Universalmuseum Joanneum complex occupies former provincial administrative buildings and old beguinage courtyards. The museum itself is Austria's oldest universal museum, founded in 1811 by Archduke Johann, and its collections spread across several inner city buildings connected by pedestrian passages. European Natural History has not always the art department that rings the facade with statues of Habsburg sons and scientific instruments that one cannot photograph without a permit.
Advertisement
The Styrian State Library reading hall is accessible, at least from the museum's main building, through a side portal used mostly by museum staff. The viewing gallery level above the main reading room keeps hours until 6:00 PM on weekdays, and under the gallery rules observation takes place, which is gentle reading and quiet appreciation. The timber of the shelves holds smell of beeswax and 19th century paper, a paper that is from the centuries. A reading hall table permit (7 euros for a full day) permits you to bring in paper materials only. Bags must be checked. The library's holdings include over 126,000 volumes printed before 1900, making it less of a stopover and more of a serious appointment.
The best time for the Joanneum and the library together is a Wednesday afternoon, when the museum's library session alert sends you back. The architecture between old Styrian buildings and the later neoclassical reading room explodes with the walls of Habsburg construction having originally served the provincial government. The same professional arcangelo of the Joanneum commissioned by the prince himself, where books tell on the floor the reader can choose to take closer inspection. The municipality of Graz notes this free exchange as part of the museum concept of Joanneum in the city, which overtook the book from the animal hall under the museum's staff department, connecting the floors together and meeting the dome into the very thing the archduke imagined.
Advertisement
When to Go and What to Expect Walking in Graz
The main pedestrian distances in the old town center are roughly 1.4 kilometers from west to east across the Innere Stadt and 1.2 kilometers from north to south. Park benches are spaced conveniently along the river widths of the Mur, while public benches in the Herrengasse block have seat backs that remain slightly uncomfortable despite viewing markers east. Umbrella shelters cover the best parts of the arcades of Landhaus and Herrengasse. Heavier rain persists from mid May through early July, so the arcades here are essential.
The cobblestones of Sporgasse and Herrengasse can become slippery after rain, and sometime after November, frost holds the stone surface in longer patches of ice when the morning air moves. Gravel paths along the eastern moat park and the Schlossberg stairs should be treated the same. The city system has marked tourist paths cordoned with white paint since 2015, and private walking routes through the fortress green gates, passing the old cannon platforms during business hours only.
Advertisement
For places that feed and water the pedestrian along the route, budget 8 to 14 euros for a medium single-course meal, and 14 to 22 euros for a mid-range venue in the Innere Stadt or Graz. Seats at outdoor tables are always occupied in the months of July and August, but bar seating often remains open. The café business at the southern square of the Griesplatz consists of one owner who operates as an actual one-person startup, closing annually from mid-July through September Plan accordingly.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the standard tipping etiquette or service charge policy at restaurants in Graz?
Standard tipping ranges from 5 to 10 percent, and some venues include a service charge automatically on the receipt when groups exceed certain amounts or when the pre-tax service surpasses specific percentages. Most casual cafés do not include service charges, so euro coins left on the plate remain commonplace. Credit card terminals offer the option to add a tip during the payment process. Many Graz restaurants prefer cash payments, though card acceptance has expanded significantly since 2020.
Advertisement
How easy is it to find pure vegetarian, vegan, or plant-based dining options in Graz?
Plant-based options are available in the Lend district and along Sporgasse through dedicated restaurants and some traditional Austrian venues, which sometimes print plant marks on menus. Dedicated vegan spots cluster within six blocks of the Hauptplatz, and vegetable forward Mediterranean restaurants operate along the south side of the Mur west of the Murinsel. Pure vegetarian schnitzel alternatives exist in the Griesplatz neighborhood, while the Lend vicinity hosts occasional fixed-menu tasting experiences using Styrian vegetables only. The overall selection remains smaller than in Berlin or Vienna, yet higher per capita than many cities of comparable size.
How walkable is the main cultural and dining district of Graz?
The main cultural and dining district is entirely walkable, with key venues falling under the one to five minute distance between one another throughout the Innere Stadt. Pedestrian only zones cover the central core, and benches along the riverfront provide rest points approximately every 200 meters along the Mur pathway. The Festungsbahn funicular operates as an elevator option for the Schlossberg ascent beyond the walking routes. Bus and tram lines serve areas stretching further east, making the entire old town center navigable without a motorized vehicle.
Advertisement
Is it possible to walk between the main sightseeing spots in Graz, or is local transport necessary?
All main sightseeing spots are within a 25 minute walk of one another at a normal pace. The distance from Hauptplatz to the Kunsthaus is approximately 800 meters, and the Schlossberg base to the Kunsthaus measures roughly
Advertisement
Advertisement
Enjoyed this guide? Support the work